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Jonathan Anderson Is Leaving Loewe After Rampant Rumors

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Jonathan Anderson Is Leaving Loewe After Rampant Rumors

Finally, after months of rumors, it’s official: On Monday, LVMH announced that Jonathan Anderson, the designer who transformed Loewe from a minor Spanish leathergoods house into a cultural lodestar and is one of the buzziest names in the LVMH stable, a favorite of Daniel Craig, Greta Lee and Josh O’Connor, was leaving the brand.

“What he has contributed to Loewe goes beyond creativity,” Sidney Toledano, the chief executive of the LVMH Fashion group, said of Mr. Anderson in the news release. “He has built a rich and eclectic world with strong foundations in craft which will enable the House to thrive long after his departure.”

Where Mr. Anderson goes next, and who takes his place, was not revealed. Cliffhanger!

Not really.

Planned designer moves have been leaking like a sieve since last fall. Things could always change, but it is widely accepted that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the American founders of Proenza Schouler who stepped down from their label in January, will be taking Mr. Anderson’s place at Loewe. Mr. Anderson is expected to move to Dior, where he will most likely take the reins of both women’s and men’s wear, the first designer to unite the two halves of the house in decades.

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The mystery is not so much what happens next. The mystery is why it is taking so long, and unfurling so publicly. Even in a DOGE world where firings seem like everyday news, even in a world where designer change has begun to seem like the norm, this has been a painfully drawn-out procedure.

It’s easy to forget, in the fun of playing the fashion equivalent of fantasy football, that the designers involved are human beings rather than chess pieces, with teams of more human beings for whom they are responsible. As a result, Dior has a women’s wear designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has been walking around for months with what seems to be a phantom guillotine hanging over her head.

Ms. Chiuri, 61, was the first woman to lead Dior in its approximately 80 years — and one of the few women at the head of a mega-luxury brand. In her nine years as artistic director of women’s wear, she helped take the brand from an estimated 2 billion euros in revenue to about 9 billion euros. She was also responsible for injecting a feminist note into its narrative and supporting female-led collectives and artists around the world, especially in India. Whatever anyone thinks of Ms. Chiuri’s work — and it could verge on the banal — or her politics (ditto), there’s no doubting her contribution to the business, her work ethic or her place in Dior’s history.

Yet according to the word on the street, Mr. Anderson, 40, has not only been finishing up his Loewe term but has also been working on a shadow Dior collection, even as Ms. Chiuri continues to work on her own. When Mikey Madison wore a remake of a 1956 Dior gown to the Oscars rather than a look from the current collection, it seemed like a portent. The rumors became so rampant that they helped prompt Kim Jones, the Dior men’s designer since 2018, to resign after his last show rather than exist in a state of further insecurity. (His position has not been filled, giving credence to the idea Mr. Anderson will take over both sides of the business.)

And the rumors cast a pall over not only Ms. Chiuri’s couture in January and her ready-to-wear show last month, but also Mr. Anderson’s Loewe presentation. “Was it the last or wasn’t it?” was as much a part of the reactions to the show as the designs themselves. It’s hard to commit to a designer’s vision — to buy into it — when it’s unclear if there’s a commitment to, or from, the designer himself.

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It is possible, of course, that the extended ambiguity is partly Ms. Chiuri’s doing. It’s possible that she is in the middle of a protracted contract negotiation about exactly what shape her departure will take and that no one involved is legally free to address the situation. It is generally believed that her cruise show in May, which will be held in Rome, her hometown, will be her farewell. LVMH declined to comment on why the transition was taking so long or why the news was being released in piecemeal fashion. Sometimes, refusing to address rumors is the best way to make them go away.

Not this time, however. This time, the rumors simply became the accepted state of affairs. Which makes it hard not to wonder why everyone involved did not simply acknowledge the truth, even if it emerged at an inconvenient time, the better to move forward. That would have cast Ms. Chiuri’s final Dior collections and Mr. Anderson’s last at Loewe as collectibles rather than question marks. It would have made the changes exciting rather than anti-climactic.

After all, if fashion reveals anything, it is that closure, as well as transparency, has its own kind of chic.

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‘The Bear’ is back in the kitchen

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‘The Bear’ is back in the kitchen

Sydney (Ayo Edebiri) and Carmy (Jeremy Allen White).

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There has always been a metaphorical parallel between The Bear, the television show, and The Bear, the fictional restaurant on the television show. Even as Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) and Sydney (Ayo Edebiri) transformed the Italian beef joint into the fancy restaurant of their dreams and wished for a Michelin star, there were undoubtedly locals who thought, “This is great and all, and I’m sure the food is good, but … I liked the beef sandwiches.” There’s still a window at The Bear to get them, but the focus is certainly elsewhere.

When it started, The Bear was mostly about the work that took place in the kitchen. The stresses of too many orders, territoriality from Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), the arrival of Sydney, and the tightly wound but undeniably talented Carmy, making everybody both extremely stressed and significantly better. Over time, it shifted and grew, putting together beloved departure episodes like “Fishes” in Season 2, which introduced a boatload of guest stars for a flashback story of a disastrous family dinner before Mikey (Jon Bernthal) died. It spent time with Sydney’s family, it explored the way Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) and Mikey originally met, it followed Marcus (Lionel Boyce) to Copenhagen, and it went with Richie to work for Andrea (Olivia Colman). All these episodes were excellent. And there was still a kitchen. But the focus seemed to be elsewhere.

At times, the show seemed to have disappeared up its own nose, to the point where you weren’t watching the show The Bear as much as you were watching the phenomenon The Bear. There were too many real-life chef cameos, until it seemed like those chefs were checking a box on a list of “things all the cool kids do.” There were too many other cameos, culminating in a rare miss from the reliably charismatic John Cena. The show placed a lot of narrative weight on Carmy’s love interest, Claire (Molly Gordon) — weight that the underwritten character couldn’t support. But even if every experiment and every diversion had worked, viewers couldn’t be blamed for missing the close focus on the kitchen and the camaraderie — for thinking, “This is all really special, but I do miss the beef sandwiches.”

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The fifth and final season dispenses with the departure episodes, and it mostly dispenses with cameos. It all takes place on one day, just after Carmy tells Richie and Sydney that he wants to step back from the restaurant and give it to them and Sugar (Abby Elliott) to run, and it mostly takes place right there at The Bear. Now that the clock set by Jimmy (Oliver Platt) has run out, his money has run out as well, and a series of cascading disasters puts Sydney, Carmy and Richie behind the 8-ball from very early in the day, not least because of the tension hanging over all three of them as they prepare to tell the staff about Carmy’s decision to leave.

Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas as Tina. CR: FX

Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas).

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We spend this day mostly with the people we know best: our three leads, along with Sugar, Tina, Marcus, and the rest of the staff — including Luca (Will Poulter), who has stayed around to keep working with Marcus. Jimmy is running around with Computer (Brian Koppelman) and a young apprentice of his named Cheese (Elsie Fisher of Eighth Grade), trying to figure out what to do about his finances since it is Jimmy, and not just the restaurant, who’s out of money.

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John Cena wanted to step away from the WWE ring before he became ‘too slow for the show’ : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

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John Cena wanted to step away from the WWE ring before he became ‘too slow for the show’ : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

A note from Wild Card host Rachel Martin: First a confession: I have never watched a WWE match in its entirety. Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate the athleticism and the performance, it’s just not my thing. But there is something about John Cena I’ve never been able to shake.

Yes, he is a wrestling legend, but he has built a career as an entertainer that transcends the ring. The first time I saw him lead a cast was the 2019 family movie “Playing with Fire” and his rapport with kids in that film didn’t seem like acting at all. The man contains multitudes!

He co-stars with Eric Andre in his newest film, “Little Brother.”

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Lifestyle

Great movies you may have missed : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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Great movies you may have missed : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Xie Miao and Yang Enyou in The Furious.

Norachai Kajchapanont/Lionsgate


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There have been some fantastic movies released this year, and we know you can’t see them all. So we’re recommending four recent movies we missed that you should add to your watchlist: The Furious, Tuner, She’s The He, and Heresy.

If you need a few more fun film recommendations, check out these episodes: 

Fun movies you may have missed

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Our favorite movies on Tubi

We debate the best movies to watch on an airplane

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