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Everything you need to know about Disneyland's biggest event of the decade

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Everything you need to know about Disneyland's biggest event of the decade

The Disneyland Resort is turning 70 in July, and it has never missed an opportunity to throw a party — especially one rooted in nostalgia. For the year-long event, a number of fan favorites are making their return, in addition to some new shows and tweaks to favorite attractions.

The festivities officially launch May 16, although not all offerings will be available right away. Some will be rolled out to coincide with Disneyland’s official birthday on July 17. The celebration is planned to last through summer 2026.

Here’s everything you need to know about the Disneyland Resort 70th Celebration — including details on a ticket deal.

Disneyland Park

The return of a fan-favorite parade. Evening parade Paint the Night made its debut in Anaheim during Disneyland’s 60th anniversary a decade ago, and it’s back for the 70th. A sort of spiritual successor to the on-again/off-again Main Street Electrical Parade, Paint the Night has a fast-moving soundtrack, more than 1 million LED lights and glittering, shimmering floats that honor franchises such as “Toy Story,” “Frozen” and “Cars.” Paint the Night is a vibrant, high-energy show that intersperses dance, tech and the requisite amount of evening sparkle.

Anna and Elsa will rejoin the Paint the Night parade on the float inspired by “Frozen.”

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(Paul Hiffmeyer / Disneyland Resort)

A legendary ride gets an update. It’s a Small World is so filled with details — playful dolls, adorable creatures, colorful vignettes, all of it designed in the style of artist Mary Blair — that it’s impossible to see all of it on one ride through. And when the attraction reopens on May 9, it will have even more characters, as Disney is adding Miguel and Dante from the film “Coco” to the ride’s Mexico section. That’s not the only tweak planned for this legendary ride. Coming in July will be an additional verse to its memorable song, this one written by original co-composer Richard Sherman shortly before his death in 2024. Sherman wrote the verse to celebrate the song’s 60th anniversary, as the attraction opened at the New York World’s Fair in 1964 before being installed at Disneyland in 1966.

Dolls in the Mexico section of ride It's a Small World.

Miguel and Dante from the Disney/Pixar film “Coco” will be added to classic It’s a Small World when the ride repoens in May.

(Disney concept art)

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A new projection show comes to It’s a Small World. The work and style of Blair also will be honored via a new projection experience that will unfold on the façade of It’s a Small World. Titled “Tapestry of Happiness,” this nighttime show, described by Disney as an “animated mosaic of Disneyland attractions, moments and memories,” will include many songs associated with the park as well as the new tune “Celebrate Happy.” Expect a projection show that digs into Disneyland history and is high on nostalgia, with no doubt a moment or two designed to bring longtime fans to tears.

An evening performance that celebrates animation. The fireworks show “Wondrous Journeys” will return for Disneyland’s 70th. Introduced for the 100th anniversary of the Walt Disney Co., “Wondrous Journeys” focuses on the history of the company’s animated works. Some fine print: Not every night of “Wondrous Journeys” will feature fireworks, but it remains one of Disney’s better-received evening shows, as it features snippets of more than 60 films as well as nods to many shorts that helped define the studio.

A drawing of an assortment of colorful characters parading down a theme park street.

A new character cavalcade will launch May 16 and continue throughout the year. Characters such as Duffy and ShellieMay, rarely seen in Anaheim, will take part.

(Artist concept / Disneyland Resort)

Say hello to Duffy. First, the bad news: The terrific, contemporary dance-focused parade Magic Happens is currently not slated to run during Disneyland’s 70th anniversary. The consolation prize? Disneyland is introducing a new afternoon character cavalcade that will feature some 70th-anniversary attire and the arrival of rarely seen characters at Disneyland, such as Duffy and ShellieMay. The teddy bear characters are international Disney superstars, and cult favorites among American Disney fans.

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Take a tour that honors Disneyland history. Disneyland will launch a new guided tour for its 70th anniversary, this one focused squarely on the history and development of the park. The two-hour experience, available for an additional charge, will be available for booking beginning April 24. Disney says the tour will place a special emphasis on the park’s opening-day attractions, as well as Walt Disney’s original vision for the park.

Concept art of Walt Disney leaning against a desk in an office.

An audio-animatronics figure of Walt Disney will appear in the show “Walt Disney — A Magical Life,” which will debut in the Main Street Opera House at Disneyland in July.

(Disneyland)

Speaking of Walt … Opening July 17 will be a show in the Main Street Opera House that will celebrate the life and legacy of the park’s patriarch. “Walt Disney — A Magical Life” will for the 70th anniversary displace the show centered on Abraham Lincoln, and will feature the first-ever audio-animatronic of Disney, which the company has teased is its most lifelike figure to date. The figure, images of which the company is currently keeping under wraps, will be brought to life via audio recordings and will be situated in a setting designed to evoke Walt’s office. After the show’s initial run during the 70th, it will play in tandem with “Great Moments With Mr. Lincoln.” The exit hall for the attraction will feature concept art for Disneyland attractions in the works.

Explore Disney tech at a historical art exhibit. Guests likely will want to arrive early for “Walt Disney — A Magical Life” once the show launches, as the gallery in the Opera House will be filled with a new exhibit developed by the company’s archives department in collaboration with San Francisco’s Walt Disney Family Museum as well as Walt Disney Imagineering, the secretive arm of the company devoted to theme park experiences. First, explore a selection of photographs and artifacts from before and during the Walt era that helps tell the Disneyland development story. Many items, including never-before-shown artifacts from Disney’s private Disneyland apartment, are on loan from the Walt Disney Family Museum. A final section will be dedicated to the development of audio-animatronic figures, looking at Walt’s passion for the creations and how they have evolved over the decades.

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Disney California Adventure

A brand-new “World of Color” show that you can vote on. “World of Color Happiness!” is a new lagoon-based show for the 70th anniversary, this one inspired by Walt Disney’s original dedication for the park. “To all who come to this happy place, welcome,” Disney said in July 1955. “Disneyland is your land. Here age relives fond memories of the past, and here youth may savor the challenge and promise of the future. Disneyland is dedicated to the ideals, the dreams, and the hard facts that have created America.” Although here’s betting the World of Color show — sure to feature impressive fountains, projections and pyrotechnics — doesn’t delve too heavily into any “hard facts.”

A host of Disney characters, led by those from "Inside Out."

The new “World of Color Happiness!” will debut in Disney California Adventure in May to celebrate Disneyland’s 70th anniversary.

(Artist concept / Disneyland Resort)

Some of the animated works featured in the performance include “Turning Red,” “A Goofy Movie,” “Tangled” and “The Lion King,” and it will be hosted by the blue-haired character of Joy from the “Inside Out” films. Arrive early and vote via the Disneyland app to see various “Inside Out” characters — Sadness, Anger, Disgust or Envy — given greater prominence during the show. A new song from Fitz of Fitz and the Tantrums fame will be featured in the production, and Boyz II Men have recorded a rendition of “Rainbow Connection” for it.

Carthay Circle will spring to life each night. The façade of the park’s upscale restaurant, Carthay Circle, will morph into a performance space. While Disney hasn’t detailed too heavily what audiences may expect to see on the building, expect a projection-based show with inventive lighting and music. The projections and lighting will be set to the 70th-anniversary theme song, “Celebrate Happy,” which is to be recorded by the Jonas Brothers.

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Concept art of a ride vehicle with passengers firing a toy blaster at a screen.

Toy Story Midway Mania! will be updated with animations that nod to the 70th anniversary.

(Artist concept / Disneyland Resort)

New surprises adorn Toy Story Midway Mania! While not the first video game-inspired ride, Toy Story Midway Mania! was quite possibly the first successful implementation of one. The ride works well with what is now known as Pixar Pier, a land full of carnival rides and games. It still holds up thanks to its simplicity. Of course, a unique ride vehicle — a carnival car with a spring-action launcher — doesn’t hurt. Now, the 2008 attraction will receive an ever-so-slight makeover for the 70th. Look for new animations that nod to the festivities peppered throughout the ride’s digital games.

A Pixar-focused daytime parade makes a comeback. Last year California Adventure unveiled a new daytime parade, “Better Together: A Pixar Pals Celebration,” and it’s returning for the 70th. Colorful floats that nod to recent films like “Luca” and “Turning Red,” the latter complete with a larger-than-life red panda Mei, are contrasted with smaller, more playful units that touch on “Toy Story” and “Monsters, Inc.” Throughout, there’s an underlying theme of friendship.

Dining, merchandise and more

A barbecue buffet, with a side of duck. Duck isn’t on the menu, but a certain waterfowl is the star of this dinner at the Grand Californian’s Storytellers Cafe. Donald’s Tales of Adventure Dinner Buffet launches May 16 and features what’s described a a campfire-style barbecue. Expect spareribs, fried chicken, prime rib and more, and look for the likes of Donald, Daisy, Clarabelle, Goofy and Pluto in new adventure-inspired outfits. Reservations are recommended and the meal starts at $62 for adults and $36 for children.

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Donald and Daisy Duck, with friends such as Clarabelle and Goofy, in a restaurant.

Storytellers Cafe at Disney’s Grand Californian will host a new Donald Duck-led character dinner buffet.

(David Nguyen / Disneyland Resort)

Specialty merchandise abounds. Disneyland is launching multiple merchandising lines for its 70th anniversary, some of which have already started to infiltrate the parks. The so-called “celebration collection” features brash colors and new collaborations with Loungefly and Dooney & Bourke. The “castle collection” is just that, featuring regal wear and jewelry inspired by Sleeping Beauty Castle, while the “vault collection” is where all those seeking Disneyland nostalgia will want to head. The vault collection will be released in waves throughout the year, the first rendition looking at Disneyland maps. The “Disneyland Resort 70th Anniversary Walt Disney Nostalgia Collection” is said to boast vintage-style accessories and attire outfitted in some of Walt’s famous quotes. There’s plenty more, including pocket watches and charms, and a giant interactive key that will light up and play music as guests explore the park.

A young man and woman model Disneyland clothes at the park.

Disneyland is launching multiple new merch lines for the 70th anniversary, including one that features quotes from Walt Disney.

(Disneyland Resort)

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And you can see it all for a (slight) discount. Disneyland fans willing to commit to more than a day in the park can take part in a limited-time ticket offer. An anniversary ticket is on sale now, good for visits from May 16 to Aug. 14. It’s a three-day, one-park-per-day ticket that sells for $360, which works out to $120 per day. That’s a slight savings, as peak spring and summer tickets typically can’t be found for less than $142 per day and can run as high as $206. Those who opt in for a four-day $400 ticket will be able to access the parks for $100 per day. The tickets do not have to be used on consecutive days.

Mickey, Minnie and a host of Disney characters in Fantasyland.

Throughout the event, look for popular characters in new celebratory attire.

(Christian Thompson / Disneyland Resort)

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You’re Invited! (No, You’re Not.) It’s the Latest Phishing Scam.

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You’re Invited! (No, You’re Not.) It’s the Latest Phishing Scam.

When John Lantigua, a retired journalist in Miami Beach, checked his email one recent morning, he was glad to see an invitation.

“It was like, ‘Come and share an evening with me. Click here for details,’” Mr. Lantigua said.

It appeared to be a Paperless Post invitation from someone he once worked with at The Palm Beach Post, a man who had left Florida for Mississippi and liked to arrange dinners when he was back in town.

Mr. Lantigua, 78, clicked the link. It didn’t open.

He clicked a second time. Still nothing.

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He didn’t realize what was going on until a mutual friend who had received the same email told him it wasn’t an invitation at all. It was a scam.

Phishing scams have long tried to frighten people into clicking on links with emails claiming that their bank accounts have been hacked, or that they owe thousands of dollars in fines, or that their pornography viewing habits have been tracked.

The invitation scam is a little more subtle: It preys on the all-too-human desire to be included in social gatherings.

The phishy invitations mimic emails from Paperless Post, Evite and Punchbowl. What appears to be a friendly overture from someone you know is really a digital Trojan horse that gives scammers access to your personal information.

“I thought it was diabolical that they would choose somebody who has sent me a legitimate invitation before,” Mr. Lantigua said. “He’s a friend of mine. If he’s coming to town, I want to see him.”

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Rachel Tobac, the chief executive of SocialProof Security, a cybersecurity firm, said she noticed the scam last holiday season.

“Phishing emails are not a new thing,” Ms. Tobac said, “but every six months, we get a new lure that hijacks our amygdala in new ways. There’s such a desire for folks to get together that this lure is interesting to people. They want to go to a party.”

Phishing scams involve “two distinct paths,” Ms. Tobac added. In one, the recipient is served a link that turns out to be dead, or so it seems. A click activates malware that runs silently as it gleans passwords and other bits of personal information. In all likelihood, this is what happened when Mr. Lantigua clicked on the ersatz invitation link.

Another scam offers a working link. Potential victims who click on it are asked to provide a password. Those who take that next step are a boon to hackers.

“They have complete control of your email and, in turn, your entire digital life,” Ms. Tobac said. “They can reset your password for your dog’s Instagram account. They can take over your bank account. Change your health insurance.”

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Digital invitation platforms are trying to combat the scam by publishing guides on how to spot fake invitations. Paperless Post has also set up an email account — phishing@paperlesspost.com — for users to submit messages for verification. The company sends suspicious links to the Anti-Phishing Working Group, a nonprofit that maintains a database monitored by cybersecurity firms. Flagged links are rendered ineffective.

The scammers’ new strategy of exploiting the desire for connection is infuriating, said Alexa Hirschfeld, a founder of Paperless Post. “Life can be isolating,” Ms. Hirschfeld said. “When it looks like you’re getting an invitation from someone you know, your first instinct is excitement, not skepticism.”

Olivia Pollock, the vice president of brand for Evite, said that fake invitations tended to be generic, promising a birthday party or a celebration of life. Most invitations these days tend to have a specific focus — mahjong gatherings or book club talks, for instance. “The devil is in the details,” Ms. Pollock said.

Because scammers don’t know how close you are with the people in your contact list, fake invitations may also seem random. “They could be from your business school roommate you haven’t spoken to in 10 years,” Ms. Hirschfeld said.

Alyssa Williamson, who works in public relations in New York, was leaving a yoga class recently when she checked her phone and saw an invitation from a college classmate.

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“I assumed it was an alumni event,” Ms. Williamson, 30, said. “I clicked on it, and it was like, ‘Enter your email.’ I didn’t even think about it.”

Later that day, she received texts from friends asking her about the party invitation she had just sent out. Her response: What party?

“The thing is, I host a lot of events,” she said. “Some knew it was fake. Others were like, ‘What’s this? I can’t open it.’”

Andrew Smith, a graduate student in finance who lives in Manhattan, received what looked like a Punchbowl invitation to “a memory making celebration.” It appeared to have come from a woman he had dated in college. He received it when he was having drinks at a bar on a Friday night — “a pretty insidious piece of timing,” he said.

“The choice of sender was super clever,” Mr. Smith, 29, noted. “This was somebody that would probably get a reaction from me.”

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Mr. Smith seized on the phrase “memory making celebration” and filled in the blanks. He imagined that someone in his ex-girlfriend’s immediate family had died. Perhaps she wanted to restart contact at this difficult moment.

Something saved him when he clicked a link and tried to tap out his personal information — his inability to remember the password to his email account. The next day, he reached out to his ex, who confirmed that the invitation was fake.

“It didn’t trigger any alarm bells,” Mr. Smith said. “I went right for the click. I went completely animal brain.”

The new scam comes with an unfortunate side effect, a suspicion of invitations altogether. It’s enough to make a person antisocial.

“Don’t invite me to anything,” Mr. Lantigua, the retired journalist, said, only half-joking. “I’m not coming.”

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The New Rules for Negotiating With Multibrand Retailers

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The New Rules for Negotiating With Multibrand Retailers
Partnerships with multibrand players remain vital to fashion brands of all sizes, but the rules of engagement have changed as the sector has come under immense strain. BoF breaks down what brands need to know to reduce risk while building lasting relationships.
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The Japanese Designers Changing Men’s Wear

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The Japanese Designers Changing Men’s Wear

You want to know where men’s fashion is heading? Follow the geeks.

These are the obsessives, fixated, with a NASA technician’s precision, on how their pants fit or on which pair of Paraboot shoes is the correct pair. These are the obsessives who in the aughts were early to selvage denim (now available at a Uniqlo near you!) and soft-shouldered Italian tailoring in the mode that, eventually, trickled down to your local J. Crew.

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And where has the attention of this cohort landed now? On a vanguard of newish-to-the-West labels from Japan, like A.Presse, Comoli, Auralee and T.T.

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A.Presse is probably the most hyped of this cohort. What other label is worn by the French soccer player Pierre Kalulu and the actor Cooper Hoffman and has men paying a premium for a hoodie on the resale market? Kazuma Shigematsu, the founder, is not into attention. When we spoke, he wouldn’t allow me to record the conversation. Notes only.

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“You mean a better-fitting denim jacket that’s based on an old Levi’s thing? Yeah, OK, sold,” said Jeremy Kirkland, host of the “Blamo!” podcast and the textbook definition of a latter-day Japanese men’s wear guy. Mr. Kirkland, once someone who would allocate his budget to Italian suits, admitted that, recently, over the course of two weeks, he bought four (yes, four) jackets from A.Presse1.

“I’m not really experimenting with my style anymore,” Mr. Kirkland said. “I’m just wanting really good, basic stuff.”

Basic though these clothes appear, their hook is that they’re opulent to the touch, elevated in their fabrication.

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Over the years, the designer Ryota Iwai has told me repeatedly that he is inspired by nothing more than the people he sees on his commute to the Auralee offices in Tokyo. When asked recently if he collected anything, he said nothing — just his bicycle.

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The true somber tale of this wave. The brand’s founder, Taiga Takahashi, died of an arrhythmia in 2022 at 27. The label has continued to plumb history for inspiration. The latest collection had pieces that drew on bygone American postal-worker uniforms.

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An Auralee2 bomber looks pedestrian until you touch it and realize its silk. Labels like T.T3 make clothes that echo the specs of a vintage relic yet come factory fresh, notched up, made … well, better. They bestow upon the wearer a certain in-the-know authority.

And so there is a hobbyist giddiness present on Discord channels where 30- and 40-something men trade tips on how to size moleskin trousers by the Japanese label Comoli; at boutiques like Neighbour in Vancouver, British Columbia, where items like a $628 dusty pink trucker jacket from Yoko Sakamoto and an $820 T.T sweater sell out soon after hitting the sales floor.

What’s notable is how swiftly these geeky preferences have wiggled into the broader fashion community. While I was in Paris for the men’s fashion shows a year ago January, all anyone wanted to talk about were things with a “Made in Japan” tag. I would speak with editors who were carving out room in their suitcases for Auralee’s $3,000 leather jackets.

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Ryota Iwai, designer of Auralee.

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Kazuma Shigematsu, designer of A.Presse.

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Keijiro Komori, designer of Comoli. via Comoli

But these were clothes being shown away from the fashion week hordes. The A.Presse showroom was on a Marais side street in a space about as long as a bowling lane and scarcely wider that was crammed with racks of canvas, silk and denim jackets with Pollock-like paint splatters. There were leather jackets as plush as Roche Bobois sofas and hoodies based on sweatshirts made in America a half-century ago.

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I got the hype. After 10 days of puzzling over newfangled stuff on the runways, the display of simple, understandable shapes we’ve known our whole lives, but redone with extra care, couldn’t have felt more welcome.

Kazuma Shigematsu, the A.Presse designer, said he had collected a trove of vintage pieces that he housed in a separate space to plumb for inspiration. He made new clothes based on old clothes that benefited from a century of small design tweaks.

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By this January, A.Presse had upgraded to a regal maison facing the Place des Vosges, with giant windows and even more reverent hoodies, even more tender leathers. Back in America, I asked an online department store executive what his favorite thing from Paris was. He took out his phone to show me photos of himself trying on a zip-up leather jacket in A.Presse’s high-ceilinged showroom.

On Their Own Terms

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“We never think about trendiness or popular design details,” Ms. Sakamoto said through a translator. “It’s more like functionality, everyday use.” The label has a thing for natural dyes: pants stained with persimmon tannin, yellow ochre and sumi ink, shirts colored with mugwort and adzuki beans.

The sudden popularity of these labels outside Japan can make it feel as if they are new. Yet each label has built a respectable business within Japan, some for more than a decade. Auralee was founded in 2015. A year later, Yoko Sakamoto4 started its line. A.Presse is the relative baby of this cohort at five years old.

“A couple years ago, we would have to buy off the line sheet or go to Japan and see everything,” said Saager Dilawri, the owner of Neighbour, who has an instinct for what spendy, creative types lust after. “Now I think everyone from Japan is trying to go to Paris to get into the international market.”

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This movement’s “Beatles on Ed Sullivan” moment occurred in 2018, when Auralee won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo, granting the designer, Ryota Iwai, financial support. Soon after, Auralee was given a slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.

“I had never seen a show before, never thought to do it,” Mr. Iwai said through a translator in February, days after his latest runway show. He has now done five.

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As we talked, buyers speaking different languages entered his storefront showroom and ventured upstairs to scrutinize items like a trench coat that looked as if it was made of corduroy but was actually made from cashmere and wool and an MA-1 bomber jacket with a feathery merino wool lining peeking out along the placket.

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The Cale designer Yuki Sato travels throughout Japan to find textiles. Unusually, the company manufactures everything, including leather and denim, in one factory.

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At Cale’s5 display off Place Vendôme, the designer Yuki Sato described denim trousers and pocketed work jackets as “modest, but perfectionist.” On the other side of the city, at Soshi Otsuki, whose 11-year-old label Soshiotsuki has gained attention for its warped vision of salary-man suits, I encountered buyers from Kith, a New York streetwear emporium better known for selling logoed hoodies and sell-out sneakers than for tailoring.

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Nearly a decade into its existence, Soshiotsuki has hit a hot streak. Soshi Otsuki won the LVMH Prize in 2025, and he already has a Zara collaboration under his belt. An Asics collaboration is set to arrive in stores soon.

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Talking through translators with these designers, I began to worry that it might be unfair to group them together simply because they were all from Japan. Auralee simmers with colors as lush as a Matisse canvas, while Comoli’s brightest shade is brown. Soshiotsuki6 has mastered tailoring, while Orslow is known for its faded-at-the-knee jeans channeling decades-old Levi’s.

Rather, as with the Antwerp Six design clique that sprung out of Belgium in the early 1980s, it is these labels’ origin stories that thread them together.

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“They’re being encountered on their own terms and respected on their own account, and they happen to be Japanese,” said W. David Marx, the author of “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style” and a cultural critic who has lived in Tokyo for more than two decades.

“It is a new era of Japanese fashion on the global stage,” Mr. Marx said.

A Love Affair With Japan

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Western shoppers have a history of falling hard for clothes from Japan. In 1981, when Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto crashed onto the Paris fashion scene, buyers swooned for their brainy, body-shrouding creations.

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Recently reintroduced as Number(N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita.

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Years later, Number(N)ine7 and A Bathing Ape synthesized trends we would call American — grunge, streetwear and hip-hop — polished them up and sold them back to the West.

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Years before American men were trawling the internet for A.Presse, they would scour forums for deals on Visvim’s jeans and sneakers. Today, Visvim has stores in Santa Fe, N.M.; Carmel, Calif.; and Los Angeles.

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Into the 2000s, clothing geeks were swapping tips on forums like Superfuture and Hypebeast about how to use a Japanese proxy service to buy Visvim’s8 seven-eyelet leather work boots or SugarCane’s brick-thick jeans.

Along the way, “Made in Japan” became a shorthand for “made well.” This was more than fetishization. As America’s clothing factories became empty carcasses pockmarking the heartland, Japan’s apparel industry grew steroidal.

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“Japan still has an incredible manufacturing base for apparel that goes all the way from the textiles to the sewing to the postproduction,” Mr. Marx said.

Today, many Japanese labels produce most of their garments and, crucially, their textiles in Japan. When I first met Mr. Iwai years ago, I asked how he managed to create such lush colors. He answered, as if noting that the sky was blue, that he worked with the factories that developed his fabrics. As I spoke with Mr. Sato in January, he shared that Cale’s factory had been in his family for generations and also produced for other Japanese brands that I would know.

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Chris Green, the owner of Ven. Space, a boutique in the Carroll Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn that has helped to introduce a number of these labels to an American market, suggested that because Japan is a small country with a fervent fashion culture, a competitive spirit has been stoked.

“They have to be able to cut through the noise,” Mr. Green said, with brands trying to prove that their cashmere sweater can outclass their peers’, that their silks are sourced from finer factories. What’s more, he said, once these brands have nailed a design, they stick with it. That is something that is important to men, in particular, who hate when a brand abandons its favored pants after a season.

Before he opened Ven. Space in 2024, Mr. Green was an admirer of many of these labels, purchasing them during trips to Japan. As we spoke, he was wearing a pair of Comoli belted jeans that he bought five or so years ago. A similar style is still available.

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Primed for What They Were Pitching

At the close of the 2010s, streetwear was running on fumes. Quiet luxury was entering at stage left. If the Row and Loro Piana were expert at subtle, fine-to-the-touch clothes, so, too, were the likes of T.T, Graphpaper and Yoko Sakamoto.

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“I went from this guy that wears pear-shaped pants to just wearing, like, a denim jacket,” said Chris Maradiaga, a tech worker and freelance writer in Vancouver. His wardrobe today consists of Comoli’s black-as-night trousers and a purple-tinged coat by Ssstein. His kaleidoscopic Bode jackets gather dust.

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Kiichiro Asakawa, designer of Ssstein.

Yuki Sato, designer of Cale.

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Soshi Otsuki, designer of Soshiotsuki.

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That Ssstein clothes have landed in the closets of men on the other side of the world defies the early guidance relayed to Kiichiro Asakawa, the label’s bushy-haired designer. His “senpais,” or mentors, warned him that his reduced designs might leave Western audiences cold. “You need something powerful,” they told him.

He tried, but it wasn’t necessary. It’s the most minimal designs — his cotton gabardine zip-ups, his “easy” pleated trousers — that people are most interested in now. “It actually makes me very happy,” he said through a translator. “My instincts were right.” Mr. Asakawa won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo in 2024.

Adapting to North American Markets (and Men)

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Several Japanese designers noted that they had modified their sizing to accommodate larger, American bodies.

“I’ll ask them, Can you lengthen the pants by three centimeters? Because you need that for the Western market,” Mr. Dilawri of Neighbour said, noting that the designers were receptive to those requests.

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A number of labels, like Comoli and Soshiotsuki, are already oversize. That’s the look.

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Kiichiro Asakawa ran a Tokyo boutique, Carol, before starting Ssstein in 2016. It’s still there. He, too, said he found inspiration in the everyday, for example when watching an elderly couple have dinner across a restaurant.

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There is also the matter of price. On the whole, these clothes are not cheap. See Auralee’s silk bomber jacket, which could be military surplus but feels stolen from a sultan’s palace. It’s roughly $1,700. Ssstein’s9 Carhartt cousin chore jacket with a cowhide collar and a factory-massaged fade? About $1,000. Anyone who has traveled recently in Japan, where the yen is tantalizingly weak, will tell you that these Japanese-made clothes, after being imported, are far pricier in North America.

Yet, as luxury fashion labels continue to price out the aspirational middle-class shopper, many of those same shoppers have convinced themselves that the Japanese labels are a better value. A cashmere coat at Prada is $10,000, and you’ll need $1,690 to own a cotton-blend cardigan from Margiela. Similar pieces from Japanese labels can be half that price, or less.

“Brands like Bottega, Balenciaga, the Row — all that stuff — are so unobtainable,” said Mr. Kirkland, whose clothing budget has shifted to A.Presse. “I will never be in that price bracket,” he added, “but I’m wealthy enough to buy a chore coat for $800.”

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Of course, Mr. Kirkland and all of the fans of these labels could own a chore coat for far less — but then it wouldn’t be “Made in Japan.”

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