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A small town in Wales claims the world's biggest Elvis festival. NPR visited

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A small town in Wales claims the world's biggest Elvis festival. NPR visited

Elvis tribute artists on stage in Porthcawl in Wales.

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You might expect the world’s biggest Elvis Presley festival to be in Las Vegas or Memphis, Tennessee. But a small seaside town in south Wales, Porthcawl — where each year 40,000 people descend to celebrate the legacy of the King — claims this title.

The main event is a three-day Elvis competition, which pits the best Elvis Tribute Artists (known as ETAs by those in the know) in the world against each other, all vying to be named Porthcawl’s top Elvis for the year. Contestants have to showcase their voices, dance moves, outfits, and stage presence, all of which are assessed by a panel of judges who crown the winner.

While Elvis artists still tend to be men, there were two women in the competition this year. One of them, Janny James, explained that she had worked hard to get her high voice deep enough to sound like Presley’s. “It took two years of sore throat nodules, but I got it low enough,” James told NPR.

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Elvis tribute artist Janny James at the Porthcawl Elvis festival

Elvis tribute artist Janny James at the Porthcawl Elvis festival.

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Dressed in a white jumpsuit covered in red rhinestones, Janny was competing in heat two. Contestants fly in from around the world. A married American couple were supposed to come over, and also compete against each other, but got stuck at home thanks to Hurricane Helene.

The other woman in the contest, Paula Navarro, had travelled from Portugal. Navorro is a therapist-by-day, but says she works hard on her Elvis tributes. “Once you wear a jumpsuit, you need to do things seriously,” Navarro said. “I’m not a professional, but I’m always demanding in everything I do.”

Porthcawl was once a thriving seaside resort. But the closure of the nearby coal mines and the rise of cheap flights to sunnier parts of Europe have meant lower tourist numbers in recent years.

Elvis tribute acts at Porthcawl in Wales, including Blue Angel, wearing red.

Elvis tribute acts at Porthcawl in Wales, including Blue Angel, wearing red

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Organizer Peter Phillips started the Elvis festival exactly 20 years ago to raise money to save the local theater, called the Grand Pavilion. But now the event has grown beyond his wildest dreams, taking over the town for a weekend every year.

“I always say that more Elvis fans celebrate Elvis at the end of September in Porthcawl than celebrate Elvis in Memphis on the anniversary of his death,” Phillips told NPR. Phillips — who has been an Elvis fan since his school days, when fellow students preferred Led Zepplin — says that he believes that tribute acts are part of the reason that Presley remains such an iconic act today, almost 50 years after his death.

Beyond the main competition, all of Porthcawl goes Elvis Presley mad. Every pub books Elvis impersonators, and revelers dress up in costumes. There’s a Young Elvis competition, and a ‘Hound Dog’ prize for the best dressed mutt. Minister and Elvis tribute artist Reverend Wynne Roberts performed as Elvis at a church service — in Welsh, of course.

Elvis tribute artist Emilio Santoro won the Ultimate Memphis Championship in August

Elvis tribute artist Emilio Santoro won the Ultimate Memphis Championship in August

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The Porthcawl Elvis festival is known for spotting the best of the best Elvis tribute acts before the rest of the world. The current champion Emilio Santoro, a 21-year-old from England, became the best Elvis in the world when he won the Ultimate Memphis Championship in August. He thinks he’s only the fourth ever British winner of the prize. Santoro first came to the Porthcawl festival aged 13, and won the first year he entered, aged 16. He says Elvis has been an obsession since he was very young old, inspired by his mother, a massive Elvis fan.

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“I remember seeing him on the TV. And then that next Christmas, I was writing to Santa asking for a jumpsuit,” Santoro said. “It’s a full circle moment coming back here.”

As well as having fun, there’s a serious side to being an ETA. Many of the Elvis performers make their living playing in care homes to older people, who often have dementia. “You start singing, and then all of a sudden, people are trying to pull themselves out of chairs,” said local Welshman Darren ‘Graceland’ Jones, who won the competition in 2014. “They want to get up and dance, but they can’t even walk… it’s Elvis that does that.”

There’s also a family element to the Elvis tribute acts at Porthcawl. Last year’s winner at the Porthcawl festival was “TC Memphis,” real name Trevor Chaplin-Smith, a Brit who has a day job as a mental health nurse. This year, his future son-in-law Nick Pitt was competing, and came in second overall. The pair share advice on how to improve their acts. This year, the winner was “Blue Angel”, an entertainer from Malaga in Spain.

“He’s my idol, my favorite artist… hearing Elvis Presley songs always helped me through my life,” he told NPR. After receiving his trophy, Blue Angel did one last Elvis classic for the cheering crowds, looking the part in his pink Elvis jacket.

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How the US Port Strike Will Impact Fashion

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How the US Port Strike Will Impact Fashion
Following the closing of ports on the East and Gulf coasts, which account for more than 50 percent of apparel and accessories imported in the US, retailers are left to figure out how to get their goods to their stores and customers ahead of the busiest time of year.
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'Joker: Folie à Deux' is much a deux about nothing : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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'Joker: Folie à Deux' is much a deux about nothing : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Lady Gaga in Joker: Folie A Deux.

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Lady Gaga in Joker: Folie A Deux.

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The new film Joker: Folie à Deux is the sequel to 2019’s Joker, which won Joaquin Phoenix an Oscar. This new film is a courtroom drama and a romance tossed into a musical blender set to liquefy, as the Joker goes on trial for the murders he committed in the last film and falls in love with a groupie played by Lady Gaga.

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L.A. Affairs: Was it love at first sight or just the thrill of seeing Elton John?

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L.A. Affairs: Was it love at first sight or just the thrill of seeing Elton John?

Some people might wonder: Is true love at first sight just a romantic fantasy? Or does it ever actually happen? These weren’t thoughts that had yet occurred to me when I was 13 years old. I was old enough to have started noticing girls, but the notion of true love, let alone at first sight, was still abstract. That was soon going to change.

My main love back then was music. I was playing keyboards in bands with schoolmates and had dreams of becoming a rock star. I was into music by bands like Emerson, Lake & Palmer and Yes, but my older sister and I were also big fans of Elton John. When we heard he was going to perform in town, we begged our mother to take us. Ever the trouper, she agreed to load up the car with me, my sister and a bunch of my sister’s teenage friends.

One of these friends invited her younger sister Susan to come along. Being the two youngest in the car, Susan and I were relegated to the “way back” of our Ford Country Squire station wagon.

Sitting across from her on those tiny fold-out rear seats, I felt something I’d never felt before. She was tall and striking, with long brown hair that had straight bangs above her bright brown eyes. She laughed with a dimpled smile and was easy to talk to. I was instantly smitten and nearly forgot why we were all taking that long drive from the San Fernando Valley to Inglewood. Is this what true love feels like?

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Once inside the Fabulous Forum, I made sure to pick a seat next to her. Elton was also fabulous, though my mind admittedly wandered much of the time. I’m sure I spent most of the show looking at her rather than the stage. She sang along to “Benny and the Jets” and “Crocodile Rock,” while I wondered: Is she feeling what I’m feeling? Is there a spark for her too? Or is she put off by my braces, my glasses or my height disadvantage? These questions would have to wait — Elton was her focus that night.

Back at Portola Junior High School in Tarzana, I took every opportunity to try to run into her. She was a grade below me, so that meant scouting the courtyard at lunchtime and between classes, then trying to come up with reasons to have a conversation. A safe excuse was to discuss whatever was new with Elton. I surprised her once with a new Elton John album on its first day of release. I sometimes would manage to come up with excuses to phone her, and we would have long conversations until one of us would be told by a sibling to stop hogging the line.

Through these encounters my feelings for her continued to grow. She was intelligent, witty and kind, and she shared my love of making music. How could there ever be anyone more perfect for me?

Before too long I got up the courage to profess my love to her. I went over to her house and she listened patiently as I told her how I felt and expressed my certainty that we would marry someday. Susan sat quietly and listened, and with kindness she gently explained that she did not feel the same way. She said that she hoped we could remain friends. Naturally I was crushed but somehow still imagined this was merely a temporary setback.

We did keep in touch over the next few years, albeit with less frequency. I continued to play in various bands, and she became the star of her high school choir. We’d share our experiences on long phone calls. By the time I turned 16, my family had moved south to Westchester near Los Angeles International Airport, and hers had moved further north to Westlake Village. The extra distance didn’t completely diminish my hope, but it certainly made the odds of us crossing paths much more remote. But as luck would have it, that summer Susan and her sister dropped by for a visit one day when they happened to be in the area.

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As she got out of the car, I instantly had the same feeling I experienced three years earlier. Could things be different for her this time? I now had the advantage of my braces being off. Contact lenses had replaced my glasses — plus the height advantage was now mine. Lo and behold, she casually suggested that maybe we could go out sometime. I made sure that “sometime” would be as soon as possible.

Our first real date was ice skating at Topanga Plaza, followed by dinner at Carl’s Jr. She was still easy to talk to, and still the love of my life. She also revealed a mischievous side. She had said before the date that she didn’t know how to skate very well, but then proceeded with a grin to skate circles around me with the grace of an Olympian. It was the first of many examples that Susan was never someone to be underestimated.

We ended that evening with our first kiss, something I had been imagining since that first concert. It was worth the wait, and we have been inseparable ever since.

Sunday marks 50 years since that fateful Elton John concert on Oct. 6, 1974. In the decades since, Susan and I have played in bands together, started companies together and traveled the world together. We’ve shared over 42 years of marriage, raised two wonderful children and have been blessed with a grandchild. And of course, we have attended countless more Elton John shows. Through it all, I feel truly blessed to have had 50 years of that “love at first sight” feeling each and every time I see her.

The author is a semiretired strategic adviser for audio and musical instruments companies, having previously been a studio musician and product designer. He and Susan, both Los Angeles natives, played in bands together for many years and co-founded the guitar products company Line 6. They now reside in Ventura County and still play music together at home.

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L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.

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