There are no bad iPads. That’s the best news about Apple’s tablet lineup: 15 years after Steve Jobs first debuted the device, the iPad is the best tablet on the market, and it’s not particularly close. Apple’s App Store is enormous and filled with great apps, Apple’s performance and battery life are consistently excellent, and the iPad is still the company’s most versatile device. That’s one easy answer to your question: yes, if you want a tablet you should buy an iPad. Even last year’s iPad, or heck, last-last year’s iPad is still a solid device. Buying an older but better device — last year’s Pro instead of this year’s Air, for instance — is a tried and true iPad formula.
Technology
The best iPad to buy
But which of all those good iPads should you buy? That’s never been more complicated. Apple sells six different iPads — the Pro in two sizes, the Air in two sizes, the Mini, and the regular ol’ iPad — all of which come with different specs and accessory options. It’s all too much.
I’ve tested every iPad currently on the market and have been an iPad user and reviewer since the very first model. (I’m pretty sure I got a job in 2010 because I had a brand-new iPad with me at the interview, but that’s another story.) After using all these tablets and accessories, I think I can help you make the choice.
The simplest way to pick an iPad is by process of elimination. First, there’s your budget: you can spend $350 on an iPad, you can spend $2,728 on an iPad, or you can spend just about anything in between. You should also decide whether you need an Apple Pencil and which one has the features you need, because not every iPad supports every model. The same goes for the keyboard attachments. Between price and accessories, your choice might be instantly obvious.
More broadly, though, your iPad-buying journey starts with two crucial questions. The first is: what kind of iPad user are you? There are roughly two types. The first and most common iPad user mostly uses it like a larger iPhone: it’s a bigger screen on which to send emails, do the crossword, watch Netflix, and other fairly casual activities. The second type of iPad user, on the other hand, uses it like a touchscreen Mac: it’s for video editing, 3D modeling, creating presentations, crushing spreadsheets, and generally Doing Work of all sorts. You’ll also email and Netflix, of course, but you want your iPad to be a primary computing device.
I think most people fall into the first category. (Honestly, I also think a lot of people who believe they fall into the second category… mostly don’t.)
What to consider when buying an iPad:
iPads are incredibly versatile gadgets, so we test them in as many real-world ways as possible. We use them for video chats, we play high-end games and casual ones, we edit complex video, we fall asleep on the couch watching Netflix. We pay close attention to performance, battery life, durability, and compatibility with important apps and accessories. We’ve reviewed every iPad on the market, along with their most important competitors, and track software updates closely as they change the devices’ appeal.
Yes, this is obvious, but it’s good to know how much you want to spend before shopping — otherwise, you risk succumbing to Apple’s incredible ability to always get you spending just a little more. You can get a new iPad for as little as $350, or you can spend well over $1,000 for a top model. Knowing how much you want to pay will guide you to the right models. It might even guide you to older models; sometimes the last-gen iPad, at a steep discount, can be the one to buy.
The most common iPad size these days has a roughly 11-inch screen. This is probably the right size for most people: 11 inches is ideal for a wide variety of things and is flexible for both holding in your hands and using with a keyboard. If you primarily plan to use your iPad for reading, you might want to go with something smaller; if you intend to replace a laptop with an iPad, you might want a bigger model. Be warned, though: a 13-inch iPad is a truly humongous thing.
Apple’s accessory compatibility is somewhat fragmented across its iPad lineup. It has several different Pencil stylus models, a number of different keyboard attachments, and a wide variety of case options. While some iPad models share accessories with others, not all of them do, so if you want to use a specific accessory with your iPad, it’s important to make sure both are compatible before you buy them.
The second question is more complicated to answer, and it’s what makes the iPad-buying process so tricky right now: how long do you expect to keep your iPad? If you’re looking for a device for the kids to beat up or something that will be your travel companion until you inevitably leave it somewhere, you’re going to end up with a very different device than if you’re shopping for your main computer for the next decade. In general, if you take care of your iPad, I think you can reasonably expect it to last at least five years — so that’s the timeline I have in mind as we go through this guide.
I used to say that almost everyone should just get the base iPad. Now, I think there are two options worth seriously considering.
$278
The Good
- The cheapest iPad by far
- Comes in lots of fun colors
- Plenty capable for casual use
The Bad
- The worst screen in the lineup
- Much older chip
- No Pencil Pro support
Screen: 11-inch, 2360 x 1640 resolution / Processor: Apple A16 / Storage: 128GB to 512GB Port: USB-C / Cellular: 5G (optional) / Speakers: stereo / Compatible accessories: Apple Magic Keyboard Folio, Apple Pencil (USB-C)
Apple’s base model is still a really good tablet and a pretty good deal: you could buy the $349 tablet and the (wildly overpriced but still very nice) $250 Magic Keyboard Folio for the price of the iPad Air. Now that it comes with at least 128GB of storage, I have few complaints with this device.
The 11-inch screen is the right size for most iPad things, the camera is good and is located in the right place, it supports the Apple Pencil — though not the newer Pencil Pro — and even its A16 chip is plenty for most casual iPad uses. All the other iPads have slightly nicer screens, particularly the antireflective coating that helps mitigate glare, but that’s almost certainly not worth the additional price for most buyers.
Here’s my reservation: the base model iPad is further behind the Air than ever before, and I worry about how that’ll play out over the next few years. If you decide to start using your iPad for more creative tasks, then you might regret not getting the Air’s M3 chip. If, by some miracle, Apple Intelligence becomes awesome in the next few years, you won’t be able to use it.
If you only wanted an iPad to last a couple years, for everyday iPad tasks, I’d tell you to buy this one without a second’s hesitation. But there’s a chance this one will feel old and outdated long before the Air does.
Read our full iPad (11th-gen) review.
$499
The Good
- M3 chip is fast and new
- Excellent accessory support
- Better display than the base model
The Bad
- Has Touch ID, not Face ID
- Much more expensive than the base model
- AI is not an upgrade so far
Screen: 11-inch, 2360 x 1640 resolution; 13-inch, 2732 x 2048 resolution / Processor: Apple M3 / Storage: 128GB to 1TB / Ports: USB-C / Cellular: 5G (optional) / Speakers: stereo / Compatible accessories: Apple Magic Keyboard for iPad Air, Apple Pencil Pro, Pencil USB-C
The iPad Air is supposed to be the perfect middle ground of the iPad lineup, and this year’s model gets pretty close. The new M3 chip is only a tiny upgrade over the M2 — I don’t even notice it in day-to-day use — but I’ll never complain about having newer chips. The biggest upgrade to the Air this year is actually the new Magic Keyboard, which adds a row of function keys and makes the setup a much more credible laptop replacement. (The new keyboard also works with the M2 Air, and if you can find that device on sale somewhere, it’s still a great tablet.)
The base iPad to iPad Air upgrade is straightforward enough. You get better accessories, a somewhat better screen, and a noticeably better processor for $250. (You also get the option of a 13-inch device for another $200, but I think an 11-inch iPad is the right size for most people — the 13-inch models start to feel more like laptops than tablets.) If you’re playing Netflix and browsing the web, that $250 won’t get you much, but as soon as you start noodling around in Final Cut or even GarageBand, you’ll notice the difference. There’s a lot of room to grow into the Air, whereas the base iPad may hit its ceiling much sooner.
The other thing the Air offers that the base iPad doesn’t is Apple Intelligence. Right now, this is not a problem: there is exactly nothing in Apple Intelligence worth spending $250 on. But if you’re an AI believer, you should know that the base iPad won’t get whatever’s coming.
Read our full iPad Air M3 review.
$1053
The Good
- Outrageously powerful
- Gorgeous screen and design
- Full accessory support
The Bad
- Outrageously expensive
- Like, MacBook Pro-level expensive
Screen: 11-inch, 2420 x 1668 resolution 120Hz OLED; 13-inch, 2752 x 2064 resolution 120Hz OLED; nano-texture glass optional / Processor: Apple M4 / Storage: 256GB–2TB / Ports: USB-C / Cellular: 5G (optional) / Speakers: four / Compatible accessories: Apple Magic Keyboard, Apple Pencil Pro, Pencil USB-C
If you’re not worried about price tags, this is easy: the latest iPad Pro is my favorite tablet of all time. The Tandem OLED screen is bright and crisp, the tablet is barely thicker than its USB-C port, it’s light, it’s thin, and it’s about as well made as you could expect a tablet to be. The M4 chip is plenty fast even for high-end games and ultra-complex creativity apps. It supports the new, lighter, better Magic Keyboard case and the Pencil Pro. I have plenty of qualms about how powerful an operating system iPadOS is, and the limits it places on just how powerfully you can use an iPad, but the M4 Pro is everything you’d want in a tablet.
But oh boy, the price. The Pro starts at $999 for the 11-inch model, and if you want a keyboard, a Pencil, and even a single storage upgrade, you’re quickly looking at a $2,000 purchase. If we’re just talking about a Netflix and email machine, we’re long past the point of diminishing returns. But if you don’t care, and you just want the best thing money can buy? Here it is. You won’t be disappointed.
Read our full iPad Pro review.
$399
The Good
- Ideal for one-handed use
- Works with the Pencil Pro
The Bad
- Missing some accessory support
- Camera’s in the wrong spot
Screen: 8.3-inch, 2266 x 1488 resolution 60Hz Mini LED / Processor: Apple A17 Pro / Storage: up to 2TB / Port: USB-C / Cellular: 5G (optional) / Speakers: quad / Compatible accessories: Apple Pencil Pro, Pencil USB-C, Smart Folio
You’re either an iPad Mini person or you’re not. I very much am: I’ve used a Mini for years as my device for reading in bed, watching movies on airplanes, and playing games on the go. The latest Mini is a bit of a disappointment, with a slightly underpowered processor and an old design that could have used smaller bezels and a relocated camera. But it’s still the iPad Mini, and it’s still good enough for most tablet things. If you want an iPad Mini, this is it.
Read our full iPad Mini review.
An aside on specs and extras
Once you’ve picked an iPad model, you still have a bunch of decisions to make. And many of them are about specs and features that will cost you hundreds of dollars. Here are my recommendations for some of the things you’ll encounter:
- Cellular coverage: You probably don’t need this. Unless you live in a really remote place, Wi-Fi is available in most places. That said, I’ve found that I use cell-equipped iPads far more often when I can just pull them out and know they’re connected — there’s something about busting it out in the park or on the subway that just feels great. Plus, it’s a really useful hotspot for other devices. This isn’t the first place I’d spend my money, though.
- Storage: This is the first place I’d spend my money. All the iPads now come with at least 128GB of storage, which is a big upgrade — 64GB was just never enough. Even now, though, I recommend springing for 256GB if you can afford it; you’d be surprised at how quickly your photos, videos, and Netflix downloads add up.
- Engraving: Don’t do this. It screws up returns and makes selling or giving it away harder. Just don’t do it.
- Apple Pencil: As much as I’d love for this to be an all-purpose accessory, it’s really not. Buy it (either the USB-C or the Pro) if you plan to handwrite or draw a lot. Otherwise, skip it.
- Magic Keyboard: This is the first accessory I’d recommend to most people — many people type a lot on their iPads, and it’s also a handy stand and dock for the tablet. You can find cheaper keyboard docks than Apple’s, but I haven’t found one I like better. It’s expensive no matter which model you buy, though.
My gadget shopping advice is always to buy the best thing you can afford and hold it for as long as possible, and that’s more doable with an iPad than almost any other device category. If you have the extra $100 to spend on storage, do it. If you want to upgrade because you think AI will get more powerful in the next few years, go for it! Just make sure you know which kind of iPad user you really are, and get the best one you’ll actually make use of. Hopefully for a long time to come.
For the first time in a while, the iPad lineup feels fairly up to date. The Air, Mini, and base model have all been updated in the last several months. The Pro is actually the oldest device in the lineup, and Bloomberg has reported that an M5-powered Pro could be coming as soon as this year.
Apple does appear to be updating its devices more often than before, sometimes on an iPhone-style annual schedule. Obviously, your iPad doesn’t need to be upgraded that often, and the year-to-year upgrades tend to be small. So our advice still holds: if you need a new one, now’s a good time. If you don’t, there seems to always be an upgrade just around the corner.
Update, May 9th: Adjusted prices and availability.
Technology
The Netherlands is the first European country to approve Tesla’s supervised Full Self-Driving
Dutch regulators, the RDW, announced that after over a year and a half of testing, it has officially approved Tesla’s Full-Self Driving (FSD) Supervised. This makes the Netherlands the first European country to authorize the use of FSD on its roads. This could open the door to wider adoption throughout the EU. Tesla’s European headquarters is located in Amsterdam, so it’s only fitting that the country is the first to embrace the company’s FSD.
In a statement announcing the approval, the RDW said that, “Using driver assistance systems correctly makes a positive contribution to road safety because the driver is supported in their driving tasks; it is a supplement to the driver. Through continuous strict monitoring of the driver in the vehicle, the system is safer than other driver assistance systems.”
The update implementing FSD Supervised (version 2026.3.6) has started rolling out to a limited number of users. Drivers will need to watch a tutorial and take a quiz before self-driving can be enabled, which reminds people that FSD Supervised “does not make your vehicle autonomous. Do not become complacent.”
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The first time I tried to remove my personal information from people search sites, it was back online after a few weeks. If the same thing happened to you, you might have decided it’s just not worth the effort. This is likely by design.
Data brokers profit from your information, so they’re incentivized to make the process as difficult as possible. Sen. Maggie Hassan even called out a few data brokers recently for hiding their opt-out pages altogether. But you don’t have to let them keep your data, as long as you know what to do.
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SPRING CLEAN YOUR DIGITAL FOOTPRINT: WHY RETIREES ARE SCAM TARGETS
A quick search of your name can reveal just how many sites are sharing your personal information without you realizing it. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)
How to remove your personal info
The way I see it, there are two ways you can do this:
- Manually removing your information
- Using an automated data removal service
I recommend the second option. It saves a lot of time and does a more thorough job than most people will manage on their own. But if you still prefer to go about it yourself, I’ll share a step-by-step guide to help you do it as painlessly and thoroughly as possible.
Step 1: map your exposures
This step is important for when your information inevitably reappears after some time. Before you start removing anything, compile a list of places where your personal information appears or is likely to be held. Or you can compile the list yourself. The sites will likely include:
People search sites
These are the easiest to find because they’re designed to be public.
- Search: “your full name” + city, “your phone number”, “your email”
- Check beyond page 1, as many listings appear deeper in the results
- Repeat searches with: Maiden names or name variations and old locations
Private data broker databases (harder to see, but widely used)
These don’t usually show up in search results because they sell data to businesses, not individuals. You can try to infer their presence based on how your data is used, but it’s no easy feat.
This is one of the reasons I recommend using a data removal service. They narrow down which brokers are most likely to have your information based on things like your location and other markers.
But if you want to try for yourself, look for signals like:
- Getting calls or emails from companies you’ve never interacted with
- Highly specific outreach (e.g., your job title, income range, or recent move)
- Pre-filled forms with your personal details
Where your data likely came from:
- Warranty registrations
- Loyalty programs and retail purchases
- Financial, insurance, or real estate inquiries
- App usage and location data
If you’ve shared your data with a company, there’s a strong chance it’s been resold or shared with brokers behind the scenes.
Marketing and lead generation lists
These are often built for targeted advertising and outreach, and your data can circulate across many of them at once.
How to spot them:
Sudden spikes in spam after:
Signing up for a service
Entering a giveaway or quiz
Downloading a resource (e.g., ebook, discount code)
- Signing up for a service
- Entering a giveaway or quiz
- Downloading a resource (e.g., ebook, discount code)
- Emails that feel “personalized” but come from unfamiliar brands
- Messages referencing a specific interest, purchase, or life event
Where to check:
- Your email inbox (search for patterns in senders)
- SMS history for unknown marketing messages
- Unsubscribe pages (they often reveal the company or list owner)
Important: Unsubscribing usually stops messages. It doesn’t remove your data from the underlying list.
Public profile aggregators (not quite the same as people-search sites)
These sites compile information from across the web but aren’t always designed specifically for “people lookup.”
Examples include:
- Old forum profiles or community pages
- Professional directories and membership listings
- Scraped social media profiles
- Event attendee lists or speaker bios
How to find them:
Search your name in quotes + keywords like:
“profile”, “bio”, “member”, “directory”
- “profile”, “bio”, “member”, “directory”
- Search usernames you’ve used in the past
- Use image search to find reused profile photos
These are often overlooked but can still expose valuable details like your location, employer, or social links.
5 MYTHS ABOUT IDENTITY THEFT THAT PUT YOUR DATA AT RISK
Data broker listings often include sensitive details like your address, phone number and relatives, making removal a critical first step. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)
Step 2: Remove your data
Now that you’ve mapped where your data is exposed (or likely to be), it’s time to start removing it. Instead of jumping randomly between sites, work through your list in order of visibility and risk:
- People search sites (highest visibility)
- Public profile aggregators
- Marketing and lead-gen lists
- Private data brokers (least visible, but still important)
Remove your data from people-search sites
These should be your first priority because they make your personal information easy for anyone to find.
Typical process:
- Find your listing using the link you saved earlier
- Locate the “opt-out” or “remove my info” page (usually in the footer)
- Submit your profile URL
- Verify your request (via email or CAPTCHA)
What to expect:
- Time per site: ~5-20 minutes
- Removal timeframe: a few days to a couple of weeks
Tip: Save confirmation emails or screenshots. You may need them if your data reappears.
Remove your data from public profile aggregators
These can be less standardized, since they’re often scraped or republished pages.
Typical process:
- Look for a “Contact,” “Support,” or “Privacy” page
- Request removal directly (or delete your account, if possible)
- If no response, identify the site owner via WHOIS or hosting info
Alternative option:
- If the page won’t be removed, you can request de-indexing through Google, but this only hides it from search results, not the site itself
These take more effort, but they’re worth addressing because they often contain contextual details (job, interests, affiliations.)
Remove your data from marketing and lead-generation lists
This is less about a single listing and more about stopping ongoing data use.
Typical process:
- Use the “unsubscribe” link in emails or reply STOP to SMS messages
- Look for a “delete my data” or privacy request option
- Submit a formal request if available (often under GDPR/CCPA rights)
Important:
- Unsubscribing stops messages
- It does not always delete your data
If the company has a privacy page, look specifically for:
- “Right to deletion”
- “Do not sell my information”
Remove your data from private data broker databases
These are the least visible and often the most frustrating to deal with manually.
Typical process:
- Find the company’s privacy or legal page
- Submit a data access or deletion request
- Verify your identity (this may require ID documents)
What makes this harder:
- You often don’t know which brokers have your data
- Some require detailed verification
- Responses can take weeks
This is where most people hit a wall and where ongoing monitoring or automation becomes useful.
Keep track as you go
As you work through your list, track:
- Sites you’ve submitted requests to
- Dates of submission
- Confirmation emails or case IDs
This makes it much easier to:
- Follow up if needed
- Re-check later when your data reappears
1 BILLION IDENTITY RECORDS EXPOSED IN ID VERIFICATION DATA LEAK
Even after you remove your information, it can reappear, which is why ongoing monitoring or automated removal matters. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)
The best way to deal with resurfacing data
My recommendation is to use a personal data removal service. These services handle the entire removal process for you, so there’s no need to search for your own data online or return to data broker sites to repeat opt-out requests. Everything is managed in the background.
They also tend to do a more thorough job than most people can manage on their own.
Many data removal services can request deletions from a wide range of websites, including some that are not easy to find on your own. They also scan for new exposures, alert you if your information shows up again and allow you to submit additional removal requests when needed. In some cases, these requests are handled by privacy specialists.
Most services also include a 30-day money-back guarantee, so you can try it risk-free and see how much of your information is exposed online.
YOU COULD BE SHARING YOUR SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBER WHEN YOU DON’T NEED TO
Check out my top picks for data removal services and get a free scan to find out if your personal information is already out on the web by visiting Cyberguy.com.
Get a free scan to find out if your personal information is already out on the web: Cyberguy.com.
Kurt’s key takeaways
Removing your personal information from the internet is not a one-and-done task. It takes persistence, a bit of strategy and the right tools. The frustrating part is that your data can come back even after you remove it, but that does not mean the effort is wasted. Every step you take reduces your exposure and makes it harder for your information to spread. If you want the most control, doing it manually gives you a clear view of where your data lives. However, if you want consistency without the ongoing time commitment, a data removal service can take that burden off your plate and keep working in the background. Either way, the key is to stay proactive. Your data has value, and once you start treating it that way, you will approach your privacy very differently.
Have you ever removed your personal info online only to see it show up again later, and what did you do next? Let us know by writing to us at Cyberguy.com.
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Earlier this year, a relatively unknown startup from Finland made a startling announcement: It had finally solved solid-state batteries.
Not only that, but Donut Lab, a spinoff of Verge Motorcycles, said that its solid-state battery — long considered the “Holy Grail of batteries” for their high-density, durable, fast-charging abilities — would go into production later this year.
Battery experts were understandably skeptical. After all, solid-state batteries are one of those technologies, along with artificial general intelligence and the hyperloop, that seem perpetually two years away. And while most legitimate efforts in this field — whether academic or commercial — have some level of published research or recognizable names attached, Donut Lab seemed to have emerged out of nowhere, with no known researchers or prior presence in the field. This lack of traceability immediately raised concerns about the startup’s credibility.
“I can’t say they didn’t do it,” said Eric Wachsman, the director of the Maryland Energy Innovation Institute and an expert on solid-state batteries and solid oxide fuel cells. “All I can say is they haven’t demonstrated that they have.”
The skepticism seems warranted, especially when you consider how many other people have been chasing the solid-state dream. Were we really to believe this obscure startup had beaten Toyota, Stellantis, and the entire nation of China to the punch? The odds were against it.
Donut Lab seemed to anticipate the doubt, launching a website last February called idonutbelieve.com that would serve as a platform to publish independent tests verifying that, in fact, its solid-state battery was real, and spectacular. Over the course of several weeks, the startup posted third-party results from state-owned VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland that it said proved its battery was what it said it was: a fast-charging, high-energy-density solid-state battery that wasn’t actually a supercapacitor in disguise.
“The resistance won’t disappear when we present the proof,” Donut Lab CEO and cofounder Marko Lehtimäki said in a video. “It will just intensify because this new technology is a threat to the established players in the industry.”
But Donut Lab is still hiding the ball on some key information. At CES in January, the startup said its solid-state battery has an energy density of 400Wh per kilogram—roughly twice that of typical lithium iron phosphate (LFP) batteries in production. Not only that, but it could charge to full in five minutes, had a practically unlimited lifespan of 100,000 charging cycles, was unaffected by heat and cold (negative 30 degrees Celsius and 100C), and contains no rare earth elements, precious metals, or flammable liquid electrolytes.
Much of that remains unsubstantiated. Even after posting five independent test reports from VTT, the startup has yet to demonstrate three of the most important metrics: chemistry, density, and cycle-life claims.
The stakes are incredibly high. Imagine an electric vehicle that can travel 700–800 miles on a single charge, and that wasn’t at risk of bursting into flames because the flammable electrolytes had been replaced with a solid material.
In lithium-ion batteries, the motion of the liquid electrolytes generates heat, and in certain situations, this can slip into a “thermal runaway” effect that results in a fire. By comparison, solid-state batteries would make it safer to quickly draw power from (or add it back to) the battery, meaning you could theoretically charge an EV faster. It also could mean, structurally, less room has to be devoted to temperature control, which could allow companies to squeeze more battery cells into the same size pack.
After reviewing the tests of the Donut battery, Wachsman said there are still significant concerns. During the extreme heat tests, for example, the pouch surrounding Donut’s battery lost its vacuum seal. Gas generation inside batteries — caused by processes like electrolyte decomposition or oxygen release — can lead to swelling and rupture of the battery pouch. But without knowing the exact chemistry of the cell, it’s difficult to say how significant it is that Donut’s battery had this failure.
Setting aside the Donut battery for a moment, solid-state batteries have struggled to graduate from the laboratory to the assembly line because of well-documented problems. These batteries are often plagued by the formation of metallic cracks called dendrites that cause them to short circuit. Think of them like cracks that form on a sidewalk when a tree root grows underneath.
Dendrites have been a thorn in the side of battery developers since the 1970s. One reason lithium-ion batteries have become ubiquitous while other approaches have stalled is that their commonly used graphite anodes are less susceptible to dendrite formation.
But new discoveries could help engineers finally overcome these hurdles. A research team from MIT recently published a study in Nature that found that chemical reactions caused by high electrical currents that weaken the electrolyte also make it more susceptible to dendrite growth. That’s why developing stronger electrolytes alone hasn’t solved the decades-old dendrite problem. And it could point to the importance of developing more chemically stable materials to finally fulfill the promise of solid-state batteries.
Progress is already being made — where else? — in China. Last month, CATL, which controls nearly 40 percent of the global battery market, filed a patent application for solid-state batteries with a reported 500Wh energy density. According to CarNewsChina, the battery maker has already been planning small-scale production in 2027. But automotive-grade cells won’t be ready likely until the end of the decade.
Other Chinese companies are rushing ahead. Automaker FAW said recently that its “liquid-solid-state” lithium-rich manganese cell with 500Wh/kg was ready for vehicle integration.
China is already laying the groundwork for mass production by the end of the decade, by which point it hopes the technology will be mature. And why wouldn’t it? This is a country that has taken EVs and battery development seriously for years, allowing it to corner the market on much of the world’s supply.
Different companies are taking different approaches. For example, Honda is committed to sulfur-based electrolytes despite emerging alternatives. Last October, Toyota announced “the world’s first practical use of all-solid-state batteries in BEVs” by 2027 or 2028. And Mercedes, using a prototype battery from startup Factorial, was able to get an electric EQS sedan a real-world range of 749 miles.
“The companies probably have a ways to go,” said Alevtina Smirnova, director of the NSF Industry-University Cooperative Research Center for Solid-State Electric Power Storage. “Because there is no comparison to what is happening now in China to what is happening here in the US.”
For its part, Donut Lab is unperturbed by the skepticism around its claims. On April 1st, Lehtimäki posted a new video addressing some of the controversy surrounding its solid-state batteries. He also revealed that Donut Lab had created a second, more production-ready version of its battery that would start shipping to customers later this year.
There was a crucial admission: The widely discussed “100,000 cycles” figure was a design target, he said, not an experimentally verified result. Actual testing has been conducted over shorter cycles, with projections extrapolated based on known variables such as charge rate, temperature, and usage conditions.
He then pivoted to a more near-term project: Donut Lab’s latest merch drop, including a “tin-foil”-covered bucket hat.
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