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Charred by fire, these grand California redwoods rise again. How to hike among them

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Charred by fire, these grand California redwoods rise again. How to hike among them

• Big Basin Redwoods State Park, near Santa Cruz, is recovering after fire scorched almost the entire park in 2020.
• Of 115 miles of trails and fire roads in the park, 31.5 are open. More are to reopen soon.
• Many post-fire redwood shoots are 10 to 20 feet tall. Walking among them is an lesson in earthly renewal.

It’s a life, death and disaster hike. Yet it’s also a stroll in the park.

The route in question is the Redwood Loop Trail, part of Big Basin Redwoods State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains. One lap around the 0.63-mile loop and you’ll see, amid the fading ravages of fire, what a vast difference four years can make in the natural world.

The state park, California’s oldest, is also the largest stand of ancient coast redwoods south of San Francisco. It was 97% burned in 2020, when the CZU Lightning Complex fire erupted in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Tens of thousands of trees were incinerated, and most of the park remains closed, its infrastructure (including 150 campsites) destroyed.

Yet after four years of regrowth, which included drought conditions, followed by atmospheric river storms in 2023, visitors can walk amid countless rising stalks, many reaching 10 to 20 feet high.

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“You’ll see shoots of green coming off these black trunks throughout the park,” said Will Fourt, senior park and recreation specialist for the state park system’s Santa Cruz district. Despite early fears, most of park’s redwoods survived, Fourt said, noting that they can resprout not only from their base and branches but also from their trunks — something most conifers can’t do.

Redwoods can resprout from their trunks.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

By one estimate, just 3% of the park’s Douglas fir trees remain.

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Among the redwoods, “the new growth that’s coming up from the roots is just amazing. It was just all gray and black here for seven months after the fire,” senior visitor services aide Debbie Martwick said. “It’s so uplifting and inspiring, the resilience of nature.”

The park has been gradually reopening since July 2022, and weekends are busy enough that rangers urge visitors to make parking reservations at least a day ahead (details below). But on the weekday that I visited, I saw only a handful of other hikers.

Where to walk in the park

Like most, I entered the park’s main day-use area by way of State Routes 9 and 236 near Boulder Creek.

The Redwood Loop Trail is a flat route that includes some of the park’s biggest and oldest trees. You see tiny sprouts inching out of fallen trunks, head-high green shoots overshadowing charred remnants and towering old trees whose branches are greening again, despite jet-black charred bark below. If you stay alert, you’ll also spot a curly redwood standing along the edge of the trail. Unlike all the rest, this tree’s bark has a wavy texture that makes it stand out like a trippy delinquent among honor students — a moment of hallucination along a journey of inspiration.

This is a coast redwood in Big Basin Redwoods State Park with a rare anomaly that has left its bark looking wavy or curly.

This is a coast redwood in Big Basin Redwoods State Park with a rare anomaly that has left its bark looking wavy or curly. This is unrelated to the fire that burned 97% of the park in 2020. The park has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

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Hikers looking for a longer route, Fourt said, can take a four-mile scenic loop that includes portions of the Skyline-to-Sea Trail, Meteor Trail and Middle Ridge Road, returning by the Dool Trail. Remember sunscreen, Fourt added, because the park isn’t as shady as it used to be.

How Big Basin became the first state park

Big Basin Redwoods State Park was created in 1902, as dozens of lumber companies were racing to fell as many tall trees in the region as they could. Local activists bought up six square miles of redwood forest, then lobbied state officials for further measures to protect the area from logging. Today, that forest is still dominated by the same trees, some of them more than 300 feet tall and 1,000 years old.

But on Aug. 16, 2020, lightning strikes touched off the CZU Complex fire, blackening 86,500 acres in and around the park (which covers 18,000 acres). The flames killed one person. Thirty-seven days passed before firefighters could contain the fire.

Today, of the park’s 85 miles of hiking trails, Fourt said, about 6.5 miles are open, with several more miles expected to reopen this winter. Of Big Basin’s 30 miles of fire roads (open to hikers, cyclists and equestrians), about 25 miles are open. It may be years, however, before hikers can again walk the popular Berry Creek Falls Trail and Sequoia Trail.

At the park, the ravages of fire are still there, but fading.

At the park, the ravages of fire are still there, but fading.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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At the site of the old park headquarters building (built in log cabin style by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936), cement steps now lead to nothing at all. Its campgrounds aren’t expect to reopen for several years. A new facilities plan is due in 2025.

Before the fire, Martwick said, the park attracted 1 million yearly visitors, who often filled hundreds of parking spots, many of them along fire roads that are now closed. Now the park gets about a tenth as many visitors — 3,000 to 9,000 per month — and has only about 70 parking spaces at its main entrance.

There are chemical toilets, but no potable water, electricity, cell-phone coverage or WiFi. In October, park officials joined the Save the Redwoods League in releasing a new Forest Management Strategy plan that calls for thinning the park’s forests in future years by increasing the number of controlled burns (which park managers have been doing for decades).

Seeing the park today “can be dramatic for people who remember the park as it was,” acknowledged Fourt. “But there’s still a lot of beauty there.”

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For now, a visit to Big Basin makes sense as part of a trip to the Santa Cruz area, but not as the centerpiece. Fortunately, there are plenty of other things to do nearby, including visiting the city and coastline of Santa Cruz as well as several state parks and the mountain communities of Scotts Valley, Felton, Ben Lomond, Brookdale and Boulder Creek.

Big Basin Redwoods State Park, which mostly burned in 2020, has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

Big Basin Redwoods State Park, which mostly burned in 2020, has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

(Chris Reynolds)

Visitors can also check out Rancho del Oso, the coastal portion of the park that lies off Highway 1 in Davenport, about 17 miles north of Santa Cruz. Though Rancho del Oso currently features just three short sections of trail (less than a mile each), the area includes Waddell State Beach (one of the top wind-surfing spots in North America), a welcome center (rebuilt and reopened in 2023), a nature and history center and six campsites.

If you go

Big Basin Redwoods State Park is open 8:30 a.m. to sunset daily. Parking is $10 without a reservation, $8 with one. Weekend visitors are urged to reserve parking at least a day ahead. On summer weekends, there’s bus service from Scotts Valley’s Cavallaro Transit Center, about 45 minutes from the park, and officials plan summer overflow parking (with shuttle buses) at Saddle Mountain, about 10 minutes from the park’s main day-use entrance. Check the park website for details before visiting.

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There are no fees or reservation requirements for visitors to Rancho del Oso.

Nearby state parks include Año Nuevo State Park, Butano State Park (where many areas are still closed), Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, Natural Bridges State Beach and Wilder Ranch State Park.

Where to eat

In Ben Lomond, Aroma Restaurant has indoor and outdoor tables, with a pair of fireplaces in the rustic but stylish dining room.

In Scotts Valley, Laughing Monk brewpub has plenty of bar food, including bourbon burgers and sweet potato fries. Brunch on weekends.

Where to stay

In Santa Cruz, Sea & Sand Inn stands on a cliff above the ocean, next door to the pricier Dream Inn. Rates often start around $150 on weekdays, $280 on weekends.

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In Santa Cruz, Mission Inn & Suites is an affordable option on Mission Avenue, about two miles from the UC Santa Cruz campus. Weekday rates often dip beneath $100.

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Azar Nafisi on the movie adaptation of ‘Reading Lolita in Tehran’

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Azar Nafisi on the movie adaptation of ‘Reading Lolita in Tehran’

Azar Nafisi on the set of Eran Riklis’ Reading Lolita in Tehran

Marie Gioanni/Greenwich Entertainment


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Marie Gioanni/Greenwich Entertainment

A new film version of Azar Nafisi’s critically-praised, worldwide bestselling memoir, Reading Lolita in Tehran, is now in theatres.

The film shows a group of women meeting clandestinely in Nafisi’s home in the mid-1990s, to read forbidden books. They read classics of the West, like Madame Bovary, The Great Gatsby, Pride and Prejudice, and Lolita.

Education had become dangerous and even deadly during the Islamic Revolution, and reading forbidden books was Nafisi’s way to fight back.

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The film, directed by Eran Riklis, begins with Nafisi as a university professor and ends with her exiled from her homeland. Nafisi told Scott Simon about the experience of seeing herself and her story depicted on the big screen, “I feel towards it the way I feel towards my children.”

The film is directed by Eran Riklis and won the the Audience Award and a special jury prize at the 2024 Rome Film Festival.

It stars Iranian actors Goldshifteh Farahani, Zar Amir Ebrahimi, and Mina Kavani. Like the author, some of the actors are exiled from Iran.

Actor Golshifteh Farahani stars as Azar Nafisi in Eran Riklis’ Reading Lolita in Tehran.

Actor Golshifteh Farahani stars as Azar Nafisi in Eran Riklis’ Reading Lolita in Tehran.

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“These girls were very different, one from the other,” Nafisi said of the students who studied with her in Tehran. Remembering them now, and seeing them depicted on the screen, Nafisi saw anew the power of great literature.

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“Outside the classroom, they probably wouldn’t talk to one another. But in that class, they learned to communicate and to connect,” she said.

Through the stories in the books, Nafisi said each woman could find more and become more herself. “It reached a sort of magic,” she said.

The magic was brutally broken by a government that was desperate to quiet the voices of dissenters. Nafisi’s homeland changed quickly into a place she barely recognized

“This wasn’t my land,” she told Simon. “This was a country ruled by a regime that stoned people to death.”

When the religious hardliners in the government banned women from appearing in public without a headscarf, the film shows Nafisi, played by Goldshifteh Farahani, agonizing in front of a mirror with a black headscarf.

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Twice the stink! Two rare corpse flowers at the Huntington are set to bloom

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Twice the stink! Two rare corpse flowers at the Huntington are set to bloom

Get ready to catch a whiff of stink. Not one, but two rare corpse flowers are set to bloom at the Huntington in the coming days, with one of them making its first-ever public bloom.

If both plants unfurl on the same day, it would be just the second time a double bloom has ever occurred at the Huntington.

For those unfamiliar with these funky flora, be warned. Corpse flowers bloom for just 24 to 48 hours, and once opened, they reek of gym socks, rotten eggs and decaying flesh … or, well, a corpse.

Brandon Tam, associate curator of orchids for the Huntington, speaks to reporters in front of two corpse flowers as they prepare to bloom.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

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Couple that with their tropical native climate of Sumatra, Indonesia, and you’re in for a sweaty, stinky viewing experience.

The stench is important for pollination, said Brandon Tam, the Huntington’s associate curator of orchids. It attracts carrion beetles and flesh flies, which lay their eggs on rotting animal carcasses.

At the Huntington, pollinators aren’t the only thing it entices. Since the garden exhibited its first corpse flower in 1999, thousands of people flock to its conservatory every summer, just to smell these putrid plants.

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It smells like rotting flesh, but thousands of people will be lining up to catch a whiff.

“The kids that first came in 1999 are now bringing their kids — their own kids — to experience this over 20 years later,” Tam said. “It’s amazing, this plant, the impact that it has had over many generations.”

Glendale resident Trinity Shi, 42, witnessed three blooms at the Huntington in 2022 and 2023 and compared the smell to rotten fish: pungent, but not unbearable. She was excited to feature such an unusual specimen on her Instagram plant blog, @cubehousejungle, and hopes to make it to this year’s bloom too.

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“It feels really prehistoric to look at this plant, because it is so giant,” Shi said of the corpse flower, which can grow over 12 feet tall. “It’s become kind of like a mascot for the Huntington.”

Thanks to cultivation techniques, the Huntington coaxes the plants to bloom every two to three years, not four to six like they do in their natural habitat, where they’re endangered.

Still, the blooms are notoriously unpredictable, Tam said. He guessed one of the plants will bloom in the coming days.

This upcoming bloom spotlights a plant nicknamed Odora, who last opened in 2024, and Odorysseus, a rookie public bloomer. Visitors offered name suggestions for Odorysseus on the Huntington’s Instagram page, where contenders included Stinkerbell, Gagatha and Count Flatula, among others.

It’s not unusual for the Huntington to have multiple soon-to-be bloomers on display. But only once, in 2018, did two plants actually unfurl on the same day.

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A detailed view of a corpse flower as it prepares to bloom.

A detailed view of a corpse flower as it prepares to bloom.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

For Odora and Odorysseus, siblings from a 2002 pollination, a double bloom is unlikely, Tam said. The plants are inclined to bloom out of sequence, “because they want to pollinate another plant that’s in the vicinity.” That can’t happen if they bloom simultaneously.

Though many refer to these plants as “flowers,” they are actually an “inflorescence,” a flowering structure containing hundreds of smaller blooms inside.

When it’s almost time for the plant to open, the spadix — a conic protrusion from inside the plant — emerges and accelerates in growth, climbing up to six inches per day. After a few days, its growth slows down.

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“When it gets to about the one-inch range, we’ll know it’s about to bloom for us fairly soon,” Tam said.

When it does bloom, the spathe — leaflike structures encasing the plant — unfurl around 3 or 4 p.m., reaching maximum size in the early hours of the morning. The odor comes from the spadix, which heats up to about 98 degrees to strengthen the smell.

Brandon Tam, associate curator, walks past the corpse flowers as they prepare to bloom at the Huntington.

Brandon Tam, associate curator of orchids at the Huntington, walks past the corpse flowers as they prepare to bloom.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

From there, visitors have until about 3 to 5 p.m. to smell the plant before it closes back up and collapses, losing its odor. Eventually, the plant returns as a leaf or a flower, photosynthesizing energy in preparation for its next bloom.

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Today, the Huntington houses 43 corpse flowers, making it one of the largest corpse flower collections in North America. The Huntington cultivates them on-site and has distributed many to botanic gardens and zoos across the country.

“It’s important when it comes to conservation that we make plants accessible,” Tam said. “If we’re able to share these plants with other organizations and other hobbyists, we’re able to decrease the amount of plant theft that occurs in the wild, where a lot of conservation work is much needed.”

Eager sniffers can visit the Huntington from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday to Monday. Be sure to stay hydrated, cool and patient, as it’s humid inside the conservatory and lines can be long. For those who want to track the blooms’ progress from afar, catch the Huntington’s online livestream.

Library, art museum, botanical garden

The Huntington

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Address: 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino

Admission: $13-34; children 3 and under, free; “Museums for All” (SNAP EBT) program, $5.

Info: huntington.org

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

Entrepreneur David Huang tests out a VR headset while conducting demonstrations of the social dance lesson app Dance Guru at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., June 17, 2026.

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Chloe Veltman/NPR

Wedding season is in full swing, bringing with it a familiar sense of dread for anyone who fears the dance floor.

But relief may finally be at hand with the help of a new app, Dance Guru, and a virtual reality (VR) headset.

The social dance instruction app transports users to a spacious, digital dance studio. Waiting inside is a computer-generated coach: a handsome, male avatar wearing a shirt open to his navel. He speaks with a slightly gravelly English accent.

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“Watch me now,” he instructs at the start of a waltz lesson — which NPR tried out at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., an annual conference showcasing the latest developments in virtual and augmented reality.

The avatar then demonstrates a basic box step.

From there, the lesson becomes interactive. The coach tells the user to hold his hand while an electric pinging sound tracks the student’s foot placement.

“One, two, three, four, five, six,” the virtual teacher counts down.

When the user stumbles, he remains remarkably patient. “Do not worry, foundations take time. Let’s try that again. Work on grounding your steps more intentionally.”

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Solving the beginner’s dilemma

Dance Guru creator David Huang said he came up with the idea for the app a couple of years ago out of frustration.

“I always wanted to learn to dance and I was always terrible at it,” Huang said. “And I always ended up stopping midway through the lessons.”

He soon realized that many beginners hit the exact same roadblocks.

“Private lessons are too expensive, and you feel like you’re always forgetting the dance steps,” Huang said. “You cannot find a partner to dance with. So I figured maybe I can create something like this.”

The Dance Guru platform currently offers tutorials in salsa, bachata, waltz, and cha-cha, in both lead and follow modes. To make the digital instruction feel authentic, Huang used motion-capture technology to record the movements of real-life dance teachers — with their permission.

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Building on the legacy of online tutorials and video games

Dance Guru belongs to a small but growing wave of apps using VR to demystify social dance. At a nearby booth, conference attendee Victor Chen is testing out a competing app called Trip the Light. It currently offers salsa lessons, as well as freestyle options, where a user can dance with a partner without having to learn specific steps.

Trip the Light's booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app's virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

Trip the Light’s booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app’s virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

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Chloe Veltman/NPR

“A lot of times when you’re trying to learn a choreography, it’s watching a YouTube video and you have to pause it, rewind, and play it,” Chen said. “If you were to have a virtual avatar dancing in front of you and correcting for any parts that you missed, it might be a lot easier.”

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