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Charred by fire, these grand California redwoods rise again. How to hike among them

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Charred by fire, these grand California redwoods rise again. How to hike among them

• Big Basin Redwoods State Park, near Santa Cruz, is recovering after fire scorched almost the entire park in 2020.
• Of 115 miles of trails and fire roads in the park, 31.5 are open. More are to reopen soon.
• Many post-fire redwood shoots are 10 to 20 feet tall. Walking among them is an lesson in earthly renewal.

It’s a life, death and disaster hike. Yet it’s also a stroll in the park.

The route in question is the Redwood Loop Trail, part of Big Basin Redwoods State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains. One lap around the 0.63-mile loop and you’ll see, amid the fading ravages of fire, what a vast difference four years can make in the natural world.

The state park, California’s oldest, is also the largest stand of ancient coast redwoods south of San Francisco. It was 97% burned in 2020, when the CZU Lightning Complex fire erupted in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Tens of thousands of trees were incinerated, and most of the park remains closed, its infrastructure (including 150 campsites) destroyed.

Yet after four years of regrowth, which included drought conditions, followed by atmospheric river storms in 2023, visitors can walk amid countless rising stalks, many reaching 10 to 20 feet high.

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“You’ll see shoots of green coming off these black trunks throughout the park,” said Will Fourt, senior park and recreation specialist for the state park system’s Santa Cruz district. Despite early fears, most of park’s redwoods survived, Fourt said, noting that they can resprout not only from their base and branches but also from their trunks — something most conifers can’t do.

Redwoods can resprout from their trunks.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

By one estimate, just 3% of the park’s Douglas fir trees remain.

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Among the redwoods, “the new growth that’s coming up from the roots is just amazing. It was just all gray and black here for seven months after the fire,” senior visitor services aide Debbie Martwick said. “It’s so uplifting and inspiring, the resilience of nature.”

The park has been gradually reopening since July 2022, and weekends are busy enough that rangers urge visitors to make parking reservations at least a day ahead (details below). But on the weekday that I visited, I saw only a handful of other hikers.

Where to walk in the park

Like most, I entered the park’s main day-use area by way of State Routes 9 and 236 near Boulder Creek.

The Redwood Loop Trail is a flat route that includes some of the park’s biggest and oldest trees. You see tiny sprouts inching out of fallen trunks, head-high green shoots overshadowing charred remnants and towering old trees whose branches are greening again, despite jet-black charred bark below. If you stay alert, you’ll also spot a curly redwood standing along the edge of the trail. Unlike all the rest, this tree’s bark has a wavy texture that makes it stand out like a trippy delinquent among honor students — a moment of hallucination along a journey of inspiration.

This is a coast redwood in Big Basin Redwoods State Park with a rare anomaly that has left its bark looking wavy or curly.

This is a coast redwood in Big Basin Redwoods State Park with a rare anomaly that has left its bark looking wavy or curly. This is unrelated to the fire that burned 97% of the park in 2020. The park has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

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Hikers looking for a longer route, Fourt said, can take a four-mile scenic loop that includes portions of the Skyline-to-Sea Trail, Meteor Trail and Middle Ridge Road, returning by the Dool Trail. Remember sunscreen, Fourt added, because the park isn’t as shady as it used to be.

How Big Basin became the first state park

Big Basin Redwoods State Park was created in 1902, as dozens of lumber companies were racing to fell as many tall trees in the region as they could. Local activists bought up six square miles of redwood forest, then lobbied state officials for further measures to protect the area from logging. Today, that forest is still dominated by the same trees, some of them more than 300 feet tall and 1,000 years old.

But on Aug. 16, 2020, lightning strikes touched off the CZU Complex fire, blackening 86,500 acres in and around the park (which covers 18,000 acres). The flames killed one person. Thirty-seven days passed before firefighters could contain the fire.

Today, of the park’s 85 miles of hiking trails, Fourt said, about 6.5 miles are open, with several more miles expected to reopen this winter. Of Big Basin’s 30 miles of fire roads (open to hikers, cyclists and equestrians), about 25 miles are open. It may be years, however, before hikers can again walk the popular Berry Creek Falls Trail and Sequoia Trail.

At the park, the ravages of fire are still there, but fading.

At the park, the ravages of fire are still there, but fading.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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At the site of the old park headquarters building (built in log cabin style by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936), cement steps now lead to nothing at all. Its campgrounds aren’t expect to reopen for several years. A new facilities plan is due in 2025.

Before the fire, Martwick said, the park attracted 1 million yearly visitors, who often filled hundreds of parking spots, many of them along fire roads that are now closed. Now the park gets about a tenth as many visitors — 3,000 to 9,000 per month — and has only about 70 parking spaces at its main entrance.

There are chemical toilets, but no potable water, electricity, cell-phone coverage or WiFi. In October, park officials joined the Save the Redwoods League in releasing a new Forest Management Strategy plan that calls for thinning the park’s forests in future years by increasing the number of controlled burns (which park managers have been doing for decades).

Seeing the park today “can be dramatic for people who remember the park as it was,” acknowledged Fourt. “But there’s still a lot of beauty there.”

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For now, a visit to Big Basin makes sense as part of a trip to the Santa Cruz area, but not as the centerpiece. Fortunately, there are plenty of other things to do nearby, including visiting the city and coastline of Santa Cruz as well as several state parks and the mountain communities of Scotts Valley, Felton, Ben Lomond, Brookdale and Boulder Creek.

Big Basin Redwoods State Park, which mostly burned in 2020, has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

Big Basin Redwoods State Park, which mostly burned in 2020, has done a lot of regreening in the four years since.

(Chris Reynolds)

Visitors can also check out Rancho del Oso, the coastal portion of the park that lies off Highway 1 in Davenport, about 17 miles north of Santa Cruz. Though Rancho del Oso currently features just three short sections of trail (less than a mile each), the area includes Waddell State Beach (one of the top wind-surfing spots in North America), a welcome center (rebuilt and reopened in 2023), a nature and history center and six campsites.

If you go

Big Basin Redwoods State Park is open 8:30 a.m. to sunset daily. Parking is $10 without a reservation, $8 with one. Weekend visitors are urged to reserve parking at least a day ahead. On summer weekends, there’s bus service from Scotts Valley’s Cavallaro Transit Center, about 45 minutes from the park, and officials plan summer overflow parking (with shuttle buses) at Saddle Mountain, about 10 minutes from the park’s main day-use entrance. Check the park website for details before visiting.

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There are no fees or reservation requirements for visitors to Rancho del Oso.

Nearby state parks include Año Nuevo State Park, Butano State Park (where many areas are still closed), Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, Natural Bridges State Beach and Wilder Ranch State Park.

Where to eat

In Ben Lomond, Aroma Restaurant has indoor and outdoor tables, with a pair of fireplaces in the rustic but stylish dining room.

In Scotts Valley, Laughing Monk brewpub has plenty of bar food, including bourbon burgers and sweet potato fries. Brunch on weekends.

Where to stay

In Santa Cruz, Sea & Sand Inn stands on a cliff above the ocean, next door to the pricier Dream Inn. Rates often start around $150 on weekdays, $280 on weekends.

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In Santa Cruz, Mission Inn & Suites is an affordable option on Mission Avenue, about two miles from the UC Santa Cruz campus. Weekday rates often dip beneath $100.

Lifestyle

Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

Entrepreneur David Huang tests out a VR headset while conducting demonstrations of the social dance lesson app Dance Guru at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., June 17, 2026.

Chloe Veltman/NPR


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Chloe Veltman/NPR

Wedding season is in full swing, bringing with it a familiar sense of dread for anyone who fears the dance floor.

But relief may finally be at hand with the help of a new app, Dance Guru, and a virtual reality (VR) headset.

The social dance instruction app transports users to a spacious, digital dance studio. Waiting inside is a computer-generated coach: a handsome, male avatar wearing a shirt open to his navel. He speaks with a slightly gravelly English accent.

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“Watch me now,” he instructs at the start of a waltz lesson — which NPR tried out at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., an annual conference showcasing the latest developments in virtual and augmented reality.

The avatar then demonstrates a basic box step.

From there, the lesson becomes interactive. The coach tells the user to hold his hand while an electric pinging sound tracks the student’s foot placement.

“One, two, three, four, five, six,” the virtual teacher counts down.

When the user stumbles, he remains remarkably patient. “Do not worry, foundations take time. Let’s try that again. Work on grounding your steps more intentionally.”

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Solving the beginner’s dilemma

Dance Guru creator David Huang said he came up with the idea for the app a couple of years ago out of frustration.

“I always wanted to learn to dance and I was always terrible at it,” Huang said. “And I always ended up stopping midway through the lessons.”

He soon realized that many beginners hit the exact same roadblocks.

“Private lessons are too expensive, and you feel like you’re always forgetting the dance steps,” Huang said. “You cannot find a partner to dance with. So I figured maybe I can create something like this.”

The Dance Guru platform currently offers tutorials in salsa, bachata, waltz, and cha-cha, in both lead and follow modes. To make the digital instruction feel authentic, Huang used motion-capture technology to record the movements of real-life dance teachers — with their permission.

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Building on the legacy of online tutorials and video games

Dance Guru belongs to a small but growing wave of apps using VR to demystify social dance. At a nearby booth, conference attendee Victor Chen is testing out a competing app called Trip the Light. It currently offers salsa lessons, as well as freestyle options, where a user can dance with a partner without having to learn specific steps.

Trip the Light's booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app's virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

Trip the Light’s booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app’s virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

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Chloe Veltman/NPR

“A lot of times when you’re trying to learn a choreography, it’s watching a YouTube video and you have to pause it, rewind, and play it,” Chen said. “If you were to have a virtual avatar dancing in front of you and correcting for any parts that you missed, it might be a lot easier.”

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

For half a century, Deidre Hall has taken on every kind of disaster in the drama-packed town of Salem, Ill., as a star of “Days of Our Lives.”

There was the time — actually, it happened twice — when her character, Dr. Marlena Evans, was famously possessed by the devil and even levitated.

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In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.

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Or the time a serial killer, who was actually Marlena under hypnosis, seemed to kill several beloved characters. The long-running show’s storylines have become legendary, and in March, while promoting “Hail Mary,” actor Ryan Gosling even gave Hall a shout-out, admitting he was a fan, praising the hard work of soap opera actors and calling her an “OG acting inspiration.”

But Hall’s real life in Santa Monica is much quieter than her character’s, and she likes it that way.

“When I bought my house in Santa Monica, I didn’t realize how great it would be to live near Montana Avenue,” says Hall, 78, about the popular shopping spot. Every day, she walks to the main street with her golden retriever, Riley, and enjoys Pilates, art and good food along the way. “The owners of the Farms Market even keep dog biscuits, so guess where the dog wants to go every time we walk — the Farms, of course,” she says, laughing.

When she isn’t filming the daily soap opera, which airs on Peacock, Hall enjoys raising monarch butterflies, exploring the shops and restaurants on Montana, and hosting movie nights at home with her two sons.

Here’s what a perfect day in L.A. looks like for her.

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This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.

7 a.m.: Breakfast and dog walk

I usually kick off my day with a protein shake, feed our golden retriever and take her out for a walk. She’s a phenomenal girl. When we adopted her, her name was Riley, but I did think about naming her after Mrs. Hughes from “Downton Abbey.”

10 a.m.: Church and garden time

After I walk the dog and go to church, I like to spend some time in my yard. I’m not a natural gardener, but I really enjoy it. I started raising monarch butterflies because my identical twin sister, who played my twin on the show, planted a butterfly garden. Monarchs are amazing because they are transitional. Every year, they travel from Mexico to southern New England, but it’s getting harder for them. Their numbers have dropped by about 80%. To help, I plant milkweed, which is what they need to survive. I buy my milkweed from the Staghorn Garden on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica. Julie, who owns the nursery, is delightful and has a wide variety of milkweed. The monarchs always seem to find my garden. Julie was raising some caterpillars too, and she cared a lot about them. We talked about how important it is to help the butterflies. That’s why I do this. Sometimes I get milkweed with eggs already on it, and Julie knows her butterflies are going to a good home.

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1 p.m.: Walk to Montana Avenue for some lunch

I live near Montana and love taking long walks, going to Pilates and trying out the great restaurants nearby, like R+D Kitchen and La La Land. I’m a big fan of the waffles at the Courtyard Kitchen. Just a few days ago, I had a chicken salad on raisin bread with an Arnold Palmer, and it was delicious. It is right on Montana and has a nice outdoor seating area. It’s one of my favorite spots. La La Land always has a long line in the morning, which is perfect if you want coffee. They serve coffee, doughnuts, croissants and avocado toast. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, and you can even bring your dog.

2 p.m.: Peek inside a clock shop

There’s a small clock shop on Montana Avenue that’s closed on Sundays, but if you walk by, you’ll see all kinds of clocks — standing, table and wall clocks. The owner is great at fixing them. Once, I bought a wall clock from MacKenzie-Childs, but it didn’t work. And I was really upset because it matched everything else on my countertop. I brought it to the owner and said, “I love this, but I can’t make it work.” He fixed it right away. His name is John, but I call him Geppetto. And we all know why. He really does have a magic touch.

2:30 p.m.: Visit a neighborhood art gallery

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Ten Women Gallery is run by 10 artists, all of whom show their work there. I was drawn to some watercolors there, bought a few cards and spoke with one of the artists. She told me, “You seem to love watercolors,” and mentioned that the artist who painted them, Pamela Harnois, lives in Los Angeles and teaches nearby. I got Pamela’s name and found out she taught at the Brentwood Art School. I was so inspired by her gift that I started taking private lessons with her on Saturdays. That gallery is where I discovered my love for watercolor painting.

3 p.m.: Grab some ice cream at Rori’s

The other day, my longtime girlfriend wanted to get ice cream and told me, “We are walking to Rori’s Artisanal Creamery.” It’s a small shop on Montana near Lincoln. They make everything themselves, using local ingredients from grass-fed cows with no added hormones. The place is family-owned and probably has the healthiest ice cream you’ll find. They switch up their flavors often, but my favorite is the salted caramel.

6 p.m.: Family dinner and movie night at home

R+D Kitchen is always packed, so my sons, who are 31 and 33, do the cooking. They come over, and together we make salads and cook dinner. There’s a neighborhood grocery store called the Farms, off Montana, a small family-run place that has everything we need. Everyone knows each other there, and people bring their dogs. We try to have movie night every Sunday. Sometimes the day changes, but we always make sure to have one night a week where we cook a meal and sit down as a family. Keeping that tradition has become really important to us. My sons are great cooks, which is funny because they definitely didn’t get that from me. [Laughs]

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9 p.m.: Take Riley for one last walk and visit neighbors

After dinner, I take my dog for a walk. It’s a great way to meet neighbors. We always go around the same block. We’ve met so many people, and since she’s a golden retriever, she loves meeting everyone.

10 p.m.: News, knitting and bedtime

I am a news junkie, so I usually watch whatever is on the news before I go to bed. I have a long-standing passion for knitting. Lately, though, the news would make me drop a stitch.

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Iris van Herpen Reaches for the Stars

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For Iris van Herpen, couture is a laboratory as much as a runway. Our chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman, takes us inside this Dutch designer’s latest Paris show — from sci-fi-inspired gowns to an audacious attempt at a dress made of charged plasma.

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