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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai

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A Snob’s Guide to Lanai


For an island owned by the second richest man on earth, Lanai is surprisingly unpretentious. Well, a caveat: it has two fabulous 5-star hotels, one an oceanfront Four Seasons, and the other its wellness-focused sister property, Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort. Even still, absent are signs of the dreaded one-percentification that has afflicted other once-sleepy idylls. No Starbucks. No country clubs. No superyachts polluting the Pacific. No Gulfstreams crowding the tiny airstrip. In other words, Lanai, which is Hawaii’s smallest publicly accessible island, remains blissfully unspoiled.

Billionaire Larry Ellison—who bought 98% of this Hawaiian island for $300 million more than a decade ago—has pretty much seen to that, leaving much of Lanai just as Mother Nature intended (while also pumping in an additional $500 million for its general beautification, infrastructure, sustainability initiatives, and much-needed restorations of both hotels). Between the Four Seasons and the Sensei, there isn’t much else—there aren’t even any traffic lights. It almost calls to mind what Big Island was like ten years ago.

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

Spend an afternoon exploring the island by horseback—and be back in time for dinner at Nobu.

“Lanai is not for the guest who is looking for busy nightlife and lots of shopping,” says Avi Phookan, general manager of Four Seasons Resort Lanai. “With only 3,000 residents and a small plantation town, this is like Hawaii as it used to be in vintage postcards. An unhurried pace, lack of crowds, friendly people.”

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Not that any of this implies there is nothing to do here. As one would expect, Four Seasons boasts an extensive menu of activities to fill up those sunny days: snorkeling (some of the best in Hawaii, per popular opinion), deep-sea fishing, sailing, golf and tennis, mountain biking, hiking, sporting clays, and horseback riding. There is an observatory on site for fantastic skygazing, as well as an adventure park nearby to keep the kids entertained. The food, too, will satisfy the most discerning of coastal elite palates (hint: it’s Nobu).

But also core to the ethos of both Four Seasons and Sensei properties is the sensitivity to—and respect for—the island. “Ancient Native Hawaiians lived sustainably on Lanai for many years,” Phookan says. “We are committed to caring for the land and understanding, preserving, and sharing the island’s culture, traditions, and history.” This is evident in projects like Sensei Farms—which uses solar energy to power its greenhouses and not only supplies the produce at the resorts, but also in supermarkets throughout Hawaii—as well as in the resort’s partnership with the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation to protect native flora and fauna, the coral reefs, and endangered seabird habitats. Hula, lei making, ukelele classes, lauhala weaving, and workshops in the kitchen garden are all part of the daily repertoire, too.

Lanai’s Hidden Gems
There are only 30 miles of paved roads on Lanai, so go off-road! Rent a 4×4 jeep, pick up sandwiches from the gas station (there is only one), and make your way to Polihua Beach for its white sand calm. Ganosti’s is also great for lunch, and don’t miss a visit to Hale Keaka, Lanai’s gorgeously restored historic movie theater. And for a unique round of golf, check out Cavendish, a charmingly rustic—and free to play—9-hole course that very few people know about.

a tent in a garden
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

Sensei Lanai’s verdant display of native flora and blue chip art (pictured here: Burning Desire by Marc Quinn).

Sensei Lanai is only 20 minutes away but might as well be in another world. Nestled smack dab in the middle of the island, the beach paradise vibe of Four Seasons gives way to something more Goop-meets-ryokan. Wellness is the MO here, but the approach is gentle. Of course you can certainly measure your VO2 max and assess your diet with an on-site nutritionist and get your fill of all the bio-hacking and longevity-promoting metrics befitting a Silicon Valley titan (Ellison founded Sensei with Dr. David Agus, who heads up his Institute for Transformative Medicine). But you can also just bide your time doing yoga, meditating, and soaking in an onsen (the property has 10). And have chocolate cake for dessert without feeling bad about it (sustenance here comes courtesy of Nobu, too).

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lanai
Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

A spa hale.

While the onsen garden is a magical little oasis discreetly tucked away on Sensei’s lush grounds (a profusion of rare palms, anthuriums, philodendrons, and giant grammatophyllum orchids is interspersed with larger-than-life sculptures by the likes of Botero, Lalanne, Koons, and Jaume Plensa from Ellison’s personal collection), it might come second to Sensei’s spa program. Every personalized treatment takes place in your own private hale (Hawaiian for home), a 1,000-square-foot sanctuary furnished with an infrared sauna, outdoor and indoor showers, a deep soaking tub, and a backyard onsen pool for you to play, steam, and luxuriate in after a session.

“True luxury is creating a meaningful sense of belonging and a dedicated focus on how people want to be treated, grounded in genuine care,” says general manager David Emig, who points out that Sensei happens to be a particularly popular destination for sabbaticals. “We get people staying 30 days at a time, recharging, relaxing, and getting best practices from our team to take back home.” Might these include the keys to immortality? You’ll just have to go see for yourself.

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Leena Kim is an editor at Town & Country, where she covers travel, jewelry, education, weddings, and culture.



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Legal team seeks pardon from N.Y. governor for Hawaii Army veteran forced to self-deport | Honolulu Star-Advertiser

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Legal team seeks pardon from N.Y. governor for Hawaii Army veteran forced to self-deport | Honolulu Star-Advertiser




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Why Does This Island Keep Beating Hawaii? Because It Costs Half as Much.

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Why Does This Island Keep Beating Hawaii? Because It Costs Half as Much.


We live on Kauai. Hawaii is home. So when another island keeps getting compared to Hawaii, we can’t help but pay attention. Recently, the island of Madeira (aka the Hawaii of Europe) was ranked the No. 1 Trending Destination in the World for 2026 by TripAdvisor and received Europe’s Leading Island Destination 2025 from the World Travel Awards.

We also ventured to Madeira last year, walking levada trails, eating in neighborhood snack bars, driving roads that make parts of Kauai feel tame, and paying close attention to what travelers actually experience once they arrive and what the trip really costs on the ground.

This is not a theoretical comparison or a recycled press release. It is firsthand reporting about an island destination that keeps winning accolades. We wanted to know why. And we wanted to know how this tiny island off the coast of North Africa could handle this onslaught of tourism without becoming jaded.

After that, the rankings almost feel beside the point. Madeira keeps surfacing because travelers keep talking about it, returning to it, and recommending it to others. The buzz does not come from a single list or award. It comes from repetition. The same island keeps showing up in the same conversations, year after year, while Hawaii increasingly does not. That compelled us to visit and report back.

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What matters more than the trophies is that this has been going on for a decade. At some point, it stops being novel and starts demanding explanation. Not because Madeira is better than Hawaii in some abstract way, but because it seems to be achieving something Hawaii is struggling with right now.

Madeira Island
Overlooking Port of Funchal, Madeira Island.

What we kept noticing on Madeira was not a single standout moment or attraction. It was how little friction there was between planning to be there and actually being there. Getting around was straightforward. Parking was a challenge, but usually functional despite overtourism. Trails were very busy but not yet entirely chaotic. Restaurants felt very used, but adequately staffed, and not quite overwhelmed. Prices felt very reasonable everywhere, rather than punitive. None of it was flawless, but very little of it felt over-complicated.

The entire experience stood out because it is increasingly rare in today’s travel world, just in relation to Hawaii. Many destinations that succeed in attracting visitors eventually start pushing back, sometimes subtly and sometimes loudly. And we’ll be visiting more of those in 2026 to share more contrasts and learn about managing overtourism.

Madeira has not avoided pressure or notoriety. Flights are full. Roads are very crowded in places. Too many cruise ships arrive daily. Yet the tone has not shifted toward exhaustion or frustration, as Hawaii’s often does.

We heard that difference repeatedly, not just from officials or tourism campaigns, but from residents. Conversations were frank, sometimes critical of mass tourism, but rarely resentful. Tourism was treated as something Madeira must manage, not something to endure or eliminate. That distinction struck us more than any award ever could.

Cost plays into this in a way that Hawaii travelers will immediately recognize. Madeira is not just reasonable, it still feels fair. Visitors are not yet constantly reminded of what they are paying for or what they are not allowed to do. Fees exist, but they do not dominate the experience. The trip does not feel like a series of costly transactions layered on top of scenery.

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The balance is fragile, not unlike Hawaii. Madeira is already testing its limits, and there are signs of strain if you look closely enough, which we did. But for now, it has managed to hold onto something Hawaii has struggled to keep. It still feels welcoming without feeling exploited. Busy yet not completely overwhelmed. Popular without feeling burned out.

That is the comparison worth paying attention to. Not about winning another ranking. Or which island looks better in photos. But which place still feels demonstrably like it wants you there, even as more people keep coming.

And once you notice that difference on the ground, it becomes hard to forget it now back home in Hawaii.

Gondola on Madeira IslandGondola on Madeira Island
Gondola on Madeira Island

Hawaii wins the flight, then loses on many other points.

Here is the paradox that makes these rankings sting. A February 2026 round-trip flight from Los Angeles to Maui can be found for about $297. It is nonstop and takes roughly six hours. A flight from Los Angeles to Madeira costs about $486, requires two stops, and takes about 19 hours.

By every practical measure, Hawaii should win this comparison on access alone among visitors from North America. Hawaii is cheaper to reach and dramatically easier to get to and be in. That should matter a lot to travelers, and it still does.

But then you land on the runway overlooking the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, and much of that advantage evaporates fast.

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Where Hawaii loses is the moment you start spending money.

In Madeira, we routinely paid $15 to $20 per person for dinner at small, family-run restaurants. These are not compromised meals or stripped-down experiences. They are full plates, local wine included, served in places where residents actually eat alongside visitors.

In Hawaii, comparable dinners now start at $40 per person, if you are lucky, and climb quickly. For many visitors, $75 or more is no longer unusual once tax and tip are added. That gap is not subtle, and it repeats itself across nearly every category of daily spending. In Madeira, tipping is not expected, and tax is included in the price.

Accommodation tells the very same story. In Madeira, we stayed in a well-located apartment in Funchal with a full kitchen and water view for less than $100 per night. In Hawaii, similar accommodations routinely run $300 (again, if you are lucky) or more per night, often before resort fees, cleaning fees, 19% tax, and assorted add-ons are factored in.

Groceries in Madeira cost roughly one-third as much as in Hawaii. Rental cars, when needed, were also far less expensive and straightforward. Even simple conveniences like espresso or pastries never triggered the consternation that has become second nature for Hawaii visitors.

Funchal, MadeiraFunchal, Madeira
Urban art in Funchal, Madeira.

Access is important, too, and Madeira has not locked things down.

Hiking is one of Madeira’s biggest draws, and access remains relatively straightforward. Popular levada trails charge a modest €3 fee, and reservations are generally not required. Trails feel maintained, viewpoints are developed, and basic infrastructure like restrooms and parking is consistently present.

Hawaii faces similar pressures, but the response has increasingly been permits, timed entry, shuttle systems, and closures rather than improved infrastructure. Some of that is understandable given environmental strain and visitor volume. Madeira faces the same growing pressures, too. The difference is that Madeira has not made the experience feel adversarial or exhausting to plan, at least not yet.

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We have already covered these contrasts in depth, including how Madeira feels like Kauai decades ago, what the “Hawaii of Europe” label gets right and wrong, and the startling similarities and differences that only become obvious once you are on the ground. Those earlier pieces do the heavy lifting on the place and our experiences. This one is about what the numbers say now in light of the latest awards.

What Madeira gets right, and what it still lacks.

Madeira works because it does not price normal travelers out of daily life. It still feels possible to arrive, explore, eat well, and move around without feeling like every decision requires financial planning.

It also has limits. There are simply no sandy beaches to speak of. The weather is decidedly not as tropical as Hawaii. There is no Hawaiian culture or history to engage with. The travel day from the mainland U.S. is very long and inconvenient, and that matters more to Americans than it does to Europeans, who can reach the island in just a few hours.

Hawaii should win this comparison on experience, access, and emotional pull. The fact that it does not win the awards says far more about how Hawaii is handling tourism than about Madeira’s appeal.

The rankings are just a symptom, not the cause.

The world is not choosing Madeira because it is “better than Hawaii.” It is choosing Madeira because Hawaii has become so expensive that even a 19-hour journey to the Atlantic feels like a reasonable tradeoff.

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These rankings are not an insult to Hawaii. But they are a signal. Travelers see what Hawaii costs once they arrive, and they are voting with their attention, their wallets, and their willingness to return. The lists simply reflect that startling reality.

The harder question is whether Hawaii’s tourism industry is paying attention, or whether this is just another ranking that gets dismissed by them while the underlying visitor costs keep getting worse. Visitors have already noticed the extreme difference. And the world clearly has too.

Have you considered a trip to Madeira?

All Photos by Beat of Hawaii.

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Supreme Court takes up gun owners’ challenge to ‘Vampire Rules’

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Supreme Court takes up gun owners’ challenge to ‘Vampire Rules’



The Supreme Court is deciding whether Hawaii can require gun owners to get permission before carrying a concealed gun onto private property open to the public, such as a store.

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WASHINGTON – In the 1897 Gothic horror novel by Bram Stoker, Dracula couldn’t enter a room without being invited.

In a Supreme Court case the justices will hear on Jan. 20, gun rights advocates charge Hawaii and other states with creating “Vampire Rules,” laws requiring gun owners to get permission – verbally, in writing or through a posted sign − before carrying a concealed firearm onto private property that’s open to the public, such as a store.

The default presumption, they argue, should be that handguns are permitted on publicly open private property unless the owner explicitly bans them.

Their challenge – which the Trump administration took the unusual step of encouraging the Supreme Court to hear before waiting for the court to ask for the government’s views − won’t require the justices to delve into 19th-century literature. But it will necessitate a review of laws from the colonial and Reconstruction eras.

That’s because the Supreme Court, in a landmark 2022 decision, said gun regulations have to be consistent with the nation’s historical tradition of firearm regulation to be constitutional.

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Supreme Court expanded gun rights

The court’s 6-3 decision in New York State Rifle & Pistol Association v. Bruen also significantly expanded the Second Amendment right to bear arms outside the home.

After the court struck down New York’s law restricting who can carry a gun in public, Hawaii – and several other Democrat-led states – focused instead on where the guns could be brought.

The Trump administration urged the Supreme Court to get involved, arguing those states − Hawaii, California, Maryland, New York and New Jersey − are doing an end-run to avoid complying with the court’s 2022 ruling.

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“Because most owners do not post signs either allowing or forbidding guns – and because it is virtually impossible to go about publicly without setting foot on private property open to the public – Hawaii’s law functions as a near-total ban on public carry,” the Justice Department told the court in a filing.

Hawaii says its law, passed in 2023, upholds both the right to bear arms and a property owner’s right to keep out guns.

“The Legislature enacted this default rule in light of ample evidence that property owners in Hawai’i do not want people to carry guns onto their property without express consent,” the state’s attorneys said, in written arguments, about the state’s long tradition of restricting weapons, including before Hawaii became a state.

In 1833, for example, Hawaii’s king prohibited anyone from having a knife, sword cane or other dangerous weapon, Hawaii’s attorney general told the court.

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Gun rights cases have increased

The challenge to Hawaii’s law is not the only gun rights case the Supreme Court will hear this term.

In March, the justices will debate whether a federal law that prohibits drug users from having a gun applies to a man who was not on drugs at the time of his arrest.

The justices are also deciding whether to take up challenges to state laws banning AR-15s and high-capacity magazines, and challenges to the federal ban on convicted felons owning guns.

Lawsuits over gun laws exploded after the court ruled, in the 2022 decision, that gun rules must be grounded in historical tradition.

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Lower courts have struggled to apply that standard.

Lower courts were divided over Hawaii’s law

In the Hawaii challenge, the district court judge’s preliminary view was that the state’s law failed the test.

When Hawaii appealed, the San Francisco-based 9th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals sided with the state, ruling that its law is constitutional.

The appeals court pointed to several historical rules, particularly one from New Jersey in 1771 and another from Louisiana in 1865, both of which required a person have permission before carrying firearms onto private property. Those laws are “dead ringers” for Hawaii’s rules, the court said.

The three Maui residents and a state gun owners group challenging Hawaii’s rules argue that those statutes do not apply to the facts in this case. New Jersey’s law prevented poachers from hunting on private land closed to the public. And Louisiana’s law was aimed at keeping guns out of the hands of formerly enslaved people.

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Because Hawaii also bans guns outright from some public areas, including beaches, parks, bars and restaurants serving alcohol − restrictions which the Supreme Court is not reviewing – gun owners are effectively banned from publicly carrying guns nearly everywhere, they argue.

Hawaii counters that to bring a gun into a shop or convenience store, for example, the gun owner must only ask an employee for permission.

“To be sure, the employee might say no, but that possibility cannot render the law unconstitutional because all agree that property owners have the right to exclude guns if they wish,” the state’s attorneys said in a filing.

Gun owners say they’re being treated like ‘monsters’

Gun rights groups say Hawaii’s law is motivated not by a desire to protect private property rights but because Hawaii wants to go after gun owners.

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As in the novel “Dracula,” several gun rights groups wrote in a filing supporting the challenge, Hawaii is “treating those with carry permits as if they were monsters that must be warded off.”

In another brief, the National Association for Gun Rights said the state’s “Vampire Rule” requires store owners to take a public stand on a highly controversial issue.

“A business owner who supports the constitutional right to carry arms for self-defense faces a Hobson’s choice,” the group wrote. “He can make his views public and risk offending many of his would-be customers, or he can suppress his preference to allow people to exercise their right to carry on his property.”

‘Foundational to American identity’

Groups working to reduce gun violence worry that the conservative court may not just throw out Hawaii’s law but may do so in a way that tightens the historical tradition test it created for assessing gun laws. All of the justices except Justice Clarence Thomas − who authored the 2022 decision − clarified that standard in a 2024 decision that explained there doesn’t need to be an exact historical match to a modern-day rule to uphold that gun restriction.

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That change, if the court sticks with it, allows Hawaii to argue that its law fits within the nation’s long history of regulating private property generally, said Billy Clark, an attorney at Giffords Law Center.

“States historically have always set default rules about the use of property,” Clark said. “That’s why you can’t just assume you can bring your dog with you to a restaurant.”

Douglas Letter, the chief legal officer for the Brady gun control advocacy group, called private property rights “foundational to American identity and embedded throughout our system of government.”

“It is absolutely clear,” he said, “that the wealthy, White men who created the United States Constitution and the Bill of Rights, one of the major things that they had in mind was protecting property.”



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