New Hampshire’s First Kosher Restaurant Is Open for Business
by Ariel Fine – chabad.org
Kosher dining has arrived in the Granite State. The Brooklyn Cafe opened its doors on July 7. in Newington, N.H., and is already serving the local community a taste of authentic New York kosher cuisine in a warm and friendly environment. The beautifully renovated cafe is located on the first floor commercial space in the Seacoast Chabad-Lubavitch Jewish Community Center in the center of Newington.
The cafe is the vision of Rabbi Berel Slavaticki, who also oversees its kosher supervision. Slavaticki moved to New Hampshire six years ago, in 2017, with his wife, Rochel, and family to establish Chabad serving both the New Hampshire coast, on the southeastern part of the state, as well as Jewish students at the nearby University of New Hampshire. Of the 15,000 students on campus, upwards of 500 of them are Jewish.
Chabad of New Hampshire was founded in 1989 when the Rebbe, Rabbi Menachem M. Schneerson, of righteous memory, sent Rabbi Levi and Shternie Krinsky to serve the state, which historically did not have a strong Jewish infrastructure. Jewish life has flourished in the years since, and with the Krinsky’s help, in 2003 Rabbi Moshe and Chanie Gray opened Chabad serving Dartmouth University in Hanover. The Slavatickis are the third Chabad emissary couple in the state.
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“When we first moved here, there was no Jewish presence on campus, and outside of Portsmouth, Jewish services in the seacoast region were sparse,” the rabbi says.
Now, the Chabad center hosts several regular programs, including weekly prayer services, men’s and women’s learning circles, programs for children and teens, and weekly classes serving the local UNH campus. The rabbi is a chaplain on the campus and shares a warm relationship with the university.
While the Slavitickis have seen immense success since their move, establishing a kosher cafe in the state was on their minds from the very outset. Its primary aim, they say, is to provide a kosher food option for the local Jewish community.
“Obtaining kosher food in New Hampshire can be a challenge,” the rabbi says. “At the same time, we wanted it to be a warm and unique place that people from all walks of life would want to eat at.”
After much deliberation about what kind of restaurant to open, the Slavatickis settled on a cafe, since it seemed that people were struggling to find a good falafel or bagel in the area, as well as for the relaxed atmosphere that a cafe offers. The name, “Brooklyn Cafe,” was chosen to invoke the feelings of a New York City bagel shop, light-hearted and unintimidating.
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Congressman Chris Pappas, who serves New Hampshire’s 1st congressional district, stopped by to visit the Brooklyn Café and the Seacoast Jewish Community Center. Seacoast Chabad Jewish Center
Meeting Point for a Diverse Community
The Seacoast region is home to an estimated 4,000 Jews. The milieu consists of young professionals, retirees, seasonal residents and college students, in addition to the many travelers on their way to Maine’s Acadia National Park and New Hampshire’s White Mountains.
Since the pandemic, many more have chosen to call the region home. Transplants started cropping up from nearby Massachusetts and New York, as well as from as far away as California.
With the community burgeoning, Slavaticki thought it was the perfect time to go through with his kosher vision. But it wasn’t without a little trepidation. “People laughed at me when I said I wanted to open a ‘kosher restaurant’,” he says.
Notwithstanding the skeptics, the cafe opened in early July, in time to greet summer travelers. The menu includes falafel, pizza and an assortment of bagels as well as pastries baked fresh every day. Patrons can also enjoy a cup of coffee or tea. Its best selling item so far is the two-tone challah, with locals traveling from near and far to get a taste.
Aside from challah for Shabbat, they now won’t have to look far for traditional Jewish holiday foods, either. There are plans in place to serve Jewish-related foods around the holidays like doughnuts and latkes in the Chanukah season.
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“The cafe is bringing a new level of vibrancy to our community,” the rabbi says. “We are connecting with so many new and interesting people because of it. I’ll often choose to bring my laptop and work from the cafe instead of my office.”
And it’s not just about the food.
“It’s become a regular occurrence to take patrons from the upstairs cafe to the downstairs synagogue and show them what we have to offer, help them lay tefillin and give them Shabbat candles,” the rabbi says. “We may soon have to move our offices into the cafe, such has been the popularity,” he jokes.
When the Slavaticki’s first moved into their sprawling Chabad center, people asked what they would do with such a space. Now, it’s home to the cafe, a Hebrew school and a thriving synagogue. Seacoast Chabad Jewish Center
‘I Can’t Believe This is Real’
The effects of kosher in New Hampshire have started to ripple through the small state, which, though growing, remains the ninth-least populated state in the country.
“In the past, we’ve tried to keep kosher a little bit, and we’re not there all the way yet. We are always trying to do a little more, and this cafe really helps,” says Marty Fuerst, a writer and artist from nearby Dover.
In fact, in early August, a woman who has called the region home for more than 50 years came to the cafe with tears in her eyes. “Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought there would be a kosher restaurant in the area,” she told the rabbi. “I can’t believe this is real.”
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The rabbi has also already fielded calls from Jewish students considering applying to UNH and wondering if there was a kosher infrastructure that they could rely on. “We plan to organize kosher meal plans for the students in the near future,” he says. “Additionally, we are in the process of installing shelves in the cafe and hope to start offering non-perishable kosher items.”
Perhaps the biggest success of the cafe, and the mitzvah of kashrut in general, is its immense power to bring people together. Everyone loves to eat good food and hang out. While religious events might at times feel intimidating, many are more open when food is the primary motivator.
For Slaviticki, who has had a busy summer opening the restaurant and hosting the annual Jewish Summer Festival, more than anything, the cafe offers local Jews something to be proud of.
“Having a space that Jews can call their own is a remedy to the isolation many may feel living far from larger Jewish communities,” he says. “It has become a place where people can just ‘be Jewish’.”
The cafe opened in early July, in time to greet summer travelers. Seacoast Chabad Jewish Center
Adrianna Smith scored 32 points and Maine made 11 3-point shots Saturday in a 73-51 women’s basketball win over New Hampshire in Durham, New Hampshire.
Smith was 12 for 23 from the floor, including 4 for 4 from 3-point range. She also had nine rebounds in Maine’s 11th straight win over the Wildcats.
Olivia Alvarez made four 3-pointers and finished with a career-high 16 points for Maine (9-10, 4-2 America East). Asta Blauenfeldt and Sarah Talon each added eight points.
Maddie Cavanaugh scored 17 points and Lucia Melero had 10 for New Hampshire (6-12, 0-5).
One month before Martin Luther King Day, I left the cold, clouded skies of New Hampshire for the heat and blinding sun of the Dutch Caribbean island of Bonaire. I left behind the cold case of Nickenley Turenne, a young man killed by Manchester police on Dec. 6 after they found him asleep in his car and gunned him down as he tried to flee.
One of my daughters, a professional scuba diver in Bonaire, wished to gift her niece, my granddaughter, the opportunity to earn her open dive certification so she could experience the beauty of the island’s marine life. My granddaughter packed a book I had given her, “The Devil’s Half Acre” by Kristen Green on the history of the American slave trade. Born in 1832 and enslaved by a brutal trader, Mary Lumpkin lived at his Richmond, Va. slave jail. In this destitute setting, she eventually freed herself and her children, inherited her husband’s jail and transformed it into “God’s Half Acre,” a school to educate Black students. It exists today as Virginia Union University, one of the first Historically Black Colleges and Universities.
In 1854, an enslaved man named Anthony Burns had escaped Richmond only to be captured in Boston and delivered south to said Lumpkin’s jail in accordance with the Fugitive Slave Act. Though a warrant for his arrest was secured, Boston had an extensive network of free Black people, white abolitionists and the Boston Vigilance Committee to protect fugitives. Neither the fliers they plastered (“The Kidnappers are Here!”) nor the 5,000 supporters gathered at the courthouse crying “Rescue him!” were enough to save Burns who was told, “You must go back. There isn’t humanity, there isn’t Christianity, there isn’t justice enough here to save you; you must go back.”
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I read avidly, seated at the site of the “slaves cabins” on Bonaire Island, “kasnan di katibu” in Papiamentu, the Bonairian language, where from the 1600s to the 1800s a notorious slave trade flourished under Dutch rule. Considered government property the enslaved labored in the saltpans — vast, pink hued pools where seawater evaporated leaving behind crystallized salt they broke up with pickaxes and shovels, then carried further onto the beach for export.
The plaque near the huts, far from being historically accurate, reads like a romanticized story with no names and no mention of the violent conditions endured under the blazing sun or the Dutch role in Atlantic slavery. According to Dutch historian, Anne van Mourik, “The information provided at significant historical sites is not only lacking and outdated. It often manipulates history by sanitizing it, without perpetrators, only faceless victims … It suggests that Bonaire’s colonial past has faded into obscurity, as if it has been forgotten or worse, that it does not matter.”
The belief that Black people, at best, hold little significance or, at worst, are expendable has been loudly countered by the Black Lives Matter slogan “say their names.” Anthony Poore, president and CEO of the NH Center for Justice and Equity, and Tanisha Johnson, executive directive of Black Lives Matter, NH, released the following statement in response to the dehumanizing conduct by police who, unprovoked and without evidence, assumed Nickenley Turrene to be a dangerous criminal:
“We must continue the conversations that will result in rejecting the narratives that continue to criminalize Black existence. It is not a crime to be unhoused. It is not a crime to sleep in a car. These are conditions created by systemic failures, not individual wrongdoing. Responding to police presence with fear is not irrational or suspicious. It is a survival response shaped by generations of racial profiling, over policing, and violence against Black communities. No nonviolent behavior, no perceived noncompliance, and no expression of fear should result in death.”
When time and space collapse, we continue to feel the effects of the Fugitive Slave Act in our current overpolicing and the frightened response of those like Burns and Turenne running for freedom as a perpetual threat punishable by death.
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Ultimately, Bonaire is a stark contrast between privilege and poverty. The Dutch continue to profit from a luxurious lifestyle while Bonairians, descendants of former slaves, live as lower class citizens in shacks without electricity or running water. I, older and grey, and my granddaughter, young and Black, leave the island with contrasting memories. She has thoroughly enjoyed swimming peacefully beside turtles and pods of dolphins undisturbed in calm waters. On land, however, the turbulence of an intolerant world remains ever present.
As we return home to honor MLK Day, we’re reminded of the painfully slow progress toward equity and justice. Tragically, in the case of Nick Turenne and countless others, “there was no justice enough to save him.” And in the words of Martin Luther King, until that day comes, “justice delayed is justice denied.”
