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The DIY Tour Guide Unearthing Overlooked Black History Right Where You're Standing

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The DIY Tour Guide Unearthing Overlooked Black History Right Where You're Standing


You don’t “meet” Sampson Levingston, as much as you experience him. My first encounter is in early April, on the weekend of the solar eclipse, in Indianapolis. He’s hosting a last-minute Walk and Talk Black History tour of Indiana Avenue—the neighborhood that was once a bustling hub of Black life and entrepreneurship—for the influx of tourists in town. Looking around our group of 15 or so he asks, “You’re all here for the eclipse?”

The former athlete and marketing major is upbeat and high energy, dressed in an oversized puffy black vest, and a jaunty yellow knit hat with blue pompoms sticking out from the sides (a remnant from the recent NBA All-Star Weekend, I later learn). Jazzy music wafts from his phone, which he amplifies with the microphone he uses to project to the group. He bounces while he stands in place, occasionally pulling out a dance move as he waits for the whole group to file in.

“I was immediately struck with just how passionate he was, the work that he does and the stories that he’s trying to tell, his unapologetic commitment to the truth even when that makes people uncomfortable,” says Ryan Huntley, a designer who moved to Indianapolis in 2006. Though Huntley was not on my particular tour, in his estimation he has participated in about 10 of Levingston’s offerings.

“I think that’s what I love the most about him— it’s that he’s not scared to make people uncomfortable. And he understands in moments of discomfort, things actually change.”

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During the tour, which covers the avenue and a few side streets, Levingston holds up copies of the The Negro Motorist Green Book, a guide for roadtripping Black Americans published between 1936 and 1967 which catalogued safe spaces to eat, stay, and recreate. He points out where locations listed in the book would be today. He stops in front of the marker for the Senate Avenue YMCA, dedicated by Booker T. Washington and once one of the largest black YMCAs in the US. He asks if we can identify anyone in the mural of jazz musicians on the side of the 75-year-old Musicians’ Repair & Sales building on Capitol Avenue and tosses a bouncy ball if we get it right. He lists David Young, David Baker, JJ Johnson, Freddie Hubbard, and others who were instrumental in the city’s thriving jazz scene in the 1950s and 1960s and points out that their faces are painted on a shop that once supplied instruments to many of them.

He talks about the razing of the neighborhood once the “Big Trifecta” came in: a new interstate was built, along with a predominantly white university, combined with the expansion of a hospital. It’s this razing that Indianapolis residents are usually most surprised about, that Indiana Avenue didn’t always look the way they know it today. “A lot of people just assume that college campus has always been there or there was nothing there before the college campus,” says Levingston. “Figuring that out is powerful.”

copies of the green book and other historic documents from Indianapolis
Photo by Maxine Wallace for Thrillist

Like many tours that launched in the pandemic, when people were figuring out how to play tourist in their own backyards, Levingston quickly found that local residents were interested what he had to offer. “People realized that there’s a lot in their city that they just don’t know,” says Levingston. The tours themselves were spurred by the Black Lives Matter protests—after attending one, Levingston was struck both by the energy of the crowd and the polarization of ideas. “I was like, ‘Man, I wish these people here knew a little bit about what I knew when it comes to Indianapolis,’” he says.

He’d always been interested in the city’s history, but previously kept his passion confined to a blog. When he decided to do a tour, he posted an announcement on Facebook. “I said, ‘For those that are interested in going downtown for the protests or don’t really know what to do, how about we do a walking history tour downtown and I can talk about what happened here in our neighborhood?’” he recalls. “It was a way to get people back together and let them know how Indianapolis fits in with the narrative of Black Lives Matter and restorative justice.”

Nineteen of his friends and family signed up, and somehow the local news station caught wind. They asked him to do another one so they could film footage. But during that filming, they asked him when the next tour would be. “I was like, ‘Uhhhh, Saturday,’” says Levingston. “So I went home and put more tickets up.”

a tour guide holding up laminated documents and pictures a tour guide holding up laminated documents and pictures
Photo by Maxine Wallace for Thrillist

When Levingston starts researching a new tour, he first thinks of a question he wants to answer, typically through the lens of the underdogs of history, whether it be Black figures, influential women, or indigenous heritage. He then looks at the records of the Indiana Historical Society and goes through back issues of newspapers in the Hoosier State Chronicles like the Indianapolis Recorder, which, established in 1865, is currently the fourth-longest running Black newspaper in the US.

History is about the unseen, he explains, a quality he likes. It reminds him of the waters that run under the city, literally what lies beneath. “I thought, man, I wonder what flows beneath the surface of me, this living, breathing, entity. What’s inside me that people don’t see, but is there?”

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“I didn’t know that not everybody stops to read historical markers, or wondered why they were renaming the street.”

Levingston’s Indiana Avenue walking tour has now expanded to eight tours around the city, with more in the works. He does one-off themed walks for special occasions like All-Star Weekend and the recent Olympic team Swim Trials, held in Indianapolis. He’ll lecture at institutions like Newfields Art Museum, and do “Hawk and Talks” at local schools, covering everything from sports to nature.

The Indiana Avenue tour is the only one taken from a strictly Black history point of view, whereas the others are more of a “Sampson Levingston” lens. That is, whatever he finds the most compelling. It still surprises him that people seek out his knowledge and expertise. “I thought we just kind of knew this,” he says. “I didn’t know that not everybody stops to read historical markers, or wondered why they were renaming the street.”

A side view of the Madame CJ Walker theater, with the marquee A side view of the Madame CJ Walker theater, with the marquee
Raymond Boyd/ Michael Ochs Archive/Getty Images

We begin and end our tour near the corner of Indiana Avenue and Martin Luther King Jr., Blvd., where a large triangular brick building envelops the whole block. One one side there’s a protruding black marquee, lit with bulbs. The bricks are accented with green, red, and terra cotta designs and a sign that says WALKER THEATER, is propped up on top of the building in large red capital letters.

“The building was named for Madame C.J. Walker, a daughter of former slaves and the first self-made female millionaire in the world,” says Levingston. Considered the wealthiest Black woman and self-made woman in America at the time of her death in 1919, Walker made her fortune by developing and marketing cosmetics and hair care products for Black women.

The building was conceived as the corporate headquarters of the Madame C.J. Walker Manufacturing Community but by the time it opened the plans expanded to include a theater, movie house, drugstore, beauty salon, restaurant, and beauty school. It became a hub of the neighborhood, a community center bustling with commerce.

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“She put the focus on Black people and Black women at a time where she kind of had to, but when it wasn’t quite expected for her to get that big doing what she did,” Levingston says, making it clear to me why he chose to begin and end his tour with this theater. “One thing I really admire about her is how she catered to her community.”

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Vanita Salisbury is Thrillist’s Senior Travel Writer. She is a fan of what lies beneath.





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Indianapolis, IN

Indianapolis Colts’ Best and Worst Free-Agent Signings of Last Decade

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Indianapolis Colts’ Best and Worst Free-Agent Signings of Last Decade


The Indianapolis Colts under general manager Chris Ballard have generally been extremely cautious in free agency. They rarely bring in outside playmakers, a strategy that hasn’t paid off over the past decade.

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Still, since 2017, Indianapolis has made several impactful outside additions. Some have paid off handsomely, and others have fallen flat. Let’s take a look at Indy’s best and worst signings over the past decade.

Best Signings

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DE Justin Houston

Houston signed with the Colts as a free agent in March 2019 on a two-year, $24 million contract after eight seasons with the Kansas City Chiefs, where he established himself as one of the league’s premier pass rushers.

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Houston is the last Colts pass rusher to record double-digit sacks, doing so in 2019 (11 sacks).

QB Daniel Jones

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Dec 7, 2025; Jacksonville, Florida, USA; Indianapolis Colts quarterback Daniel Jones (17) looks to throw downfield against the Jacksonville Jaguars during the first half at EverBank Stadium. | Travis Register-Imagn Images

Daniel Jones played better football than any Colts quarterback since Philip Rivers in 2020. He certainly was worth his $17 million price tag, and it’s fair to say he was one of the best Colts free agent signings of the Chris Ballard era.

Jones was transition tagged by the Colts earlier this week, becoming the second quarterback in NFL history to be placed under the transition tag.

QB Philip Rivers

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Speaking of Rivers, he deserves a spot on this list. In his 2020 campaign, Rivers threw for 4,169 yards, 24 touchdowns, and 11 interceptions. He led the Colts to their last playoff appearance and nearly upset the Buffalo Bills in the wild-card round of the playoffs.

TE Eric Ebron

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Indianapolis Colts tight end Eric Ebron (85) celebrates and offensive play during the third quarter of their game against the Miami Dolphins at Lucas Oil Stadium in Indianapolis, Sunday, Nov. 10, 2019. Miami won, 16-12.

Miami Dolphins At Indianapolis Colts In Nfl Week 10 At Lucas Oil Stadium In Indianapolis Sunday Nov 10 2019 | Jenna Watson/IndyStar, Indianapolis Star via Imagn Content Services, LLC

Ebron struggled with drops throughout his career, but his one season paired with Andrew Luck was special. In 2018, Ebron hauled in 66 receptions for 750 yards and 13 touchdowns. Each of those numbers was a career high.

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In 2019, Ebron’s production fell off a cliff. He only caught 31 passes for 375 yards and three touchdowns from Jacoby Brissett and Brian Hoyer. Still, Ebron deserves recognition for his one decent year in Indy.

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Worst Signings

CB Xavien Howard

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Howard was brought in weeks before the 2025 season, and after a month in Indy, he abruptly retired. The former All-Pro corner struggled mightily during his brief Colts tenure. According to Pro Football Focus, he allowed a 139.2 passer rating and 16 receptions while earning a 36.1 overall grade.

Once Puka Nacua went for 13 receptions and 170 yards while matched up against Howard, the 10-year veteran knew it was time to hang up the cleats for good.

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K Matt Gay

Jan 5, 2025; Indianapolis, Indiana, USA; Indianapolis Colts place kicker Matt Gay (7) kicks a field goal in overtime during a game against the Jacksonville Jaguars at Lucas Oil Stadium. Mandatory Credit: Christine Tannous/USA TODAY Network via Imagn Images | Christine Tannous/USA TODAY Network via Imagn Images

Ballard rarely gives out money, but in 2023, he thought it would be wise to sign Matt Gay to the largest free-agent kicker contract of all time (four years, $22.5 million). Gay stayed for two seasons before the team cut him last spring.

During his time in Indianapolis, Gay converted 82.1% of his field goal attempts (64 of 78). When kicking from 50 yards and beyond, Gay had a 50% success rate (11 of 22).

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DT Raekwon Davis

The Colts signed Davis as a cheap depth piece at defensive tackle, but he never truly became anything special. He appeared in 17 games in 2024, recording 15 total tackles.

The Colts gave Davis a two-year, $14 million deal only to cut him before his second season in Indy.

WR Devin Funchess

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Sep 8, 2019; Carson, CA, USA; Indianapolis Colts wide receiver Devin Funchess (17) can t hang onto the ball on a pass I the end zone in the closing minute of regulation against the Los Angeles Chargers at Dignity Health Sports Park. Defending on the play is Los Angeles Chargers defensive back Brandon Facyson (28). Mandatory Credit: Robert Hanashiro-Imagn Images | Robert Hanashiro-Imagn Images

Ballard signed Funchess to a one-year deal worth up to $13 million back in 2019, months before Luck retired. Funchess missed most of the season with a broken collarbone that he suffered in Week 1 after hauling in three receptions for 32 yards.

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Funchess’s lack of success in Indy wasn’t his fault, but it was another signing down the drain for Ballard’s front office.



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More than 25% of downtown offices sit empty as north side booms

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More than 25% of downtown offices sit empty as north side booms


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Companies are increasingly looking north for space, a sign that employers still want in-person offices just not in the downtown high-rises that once drew business. The trend means downtown office space remains in high-supply and low-demand — unless, that is, the office space comes flush with amenities, the market shows.

The overall Indianapolis office market sat at 21.2% vacant at the end of 2025, a slight dip from earlier in the year but an improvement over the year before, according to research published in January by Colliers.

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The downtown office market vacancy rate, however, did not budge, remaining at 26%, signaling the challenges landlords face in drawing companies to move to or resign leases in the city’s urban core. Leasing on the north side of the city and Hamilton County largely buoyed the overall health of the Indianapolis metro office market, said Nick Svarczkopf, CBRE senior vice president of office and medical properties.

The reason is relatively simple, tenant representatives say: Companies downsized as employees work more hybrid hours and those who still want office space lean toward shared, untraditional layouts. Most downtown office space, especially in the largest office buildings, tends to be older, more old-fashioned workspaces dotted with cubicles and individual office walls.

The rare exception is Bottleworks, a development off the main strip of Mass Ave. The Hendricks Commercial Properties space is completely filled, with a fully pre-leased building in the pipeline.

In June, law firm Ice Miller signed an 85,000-square-foot lease in the Bottleworks Phase III under development off Mass Ave set to open in 2028. The contract became the largest downtown lease since 2019 and made the firm the largest tenant at the state-of-the-art Bottleworks campus.

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Bottleworks offers many of the features workplace real estate experts say employees in 2026 value most: fitness centers, walkable areas and close dining spots to grab lunch. Employers have taken note, paying premium rent to move into office space that has access to these more experiential options, said Rich Forslund, executive vice president at Colliers’ Indianapolis office.

“Downtown has some but the suburbs have quite a bit,” Forslund said. “So people are moving to those spots in order to try to draw folks back to the office.”

Companies put employee experience first

A stroll through the Indiana Members Credit Union’s new headquarters at 835 N. College Ave., part of Bottleworks, reveals all of those aforementioned amenities — plus an employee-only outdoor patio, a custom soda and sparkling water machine and a state-of-the-art golf simulator, saving the company time-consuming and costly bonding outings to Top Golf.

For IMCU employees, the new office represents a drastic change from their old headquarters on the south side that cobbled together several strip mall-like buildings and a surface parking lot into a corporate campus. Roughly 120 of the company’s 467 employees work at the Bottleworks office, where they are required to come at least four days a week. The remaining employees work at customer branches around the city.

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President and CEO John Newett said the credit union ran out of space at its south-side location, prompting the need for the company’s move at the start of the new year. To ensure that doesn’t happen again soon, IMCU built in space for additional workers in the new office and hopes the spot just off Mass. Ave. will attract younger employees looking for an up-and-coming place to work as well as draw new employees from other suburbs to the north and west.

Part of that strategy included finding as many “wow factors” in the new space as possible, Newett said.

“It’s a little more fun than the traditional office,” Newett said.

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Indy lags behind other major downtowns

Across the country, office vacancy is hovering around 20.5% as the U.S. market shows signs of stabilizing after years of growing vacancies following the pandemic. Yet statistics from cities across the nation show that Indianapolis is relatively unique with suburban areas outpacing dense downtown neighborhoods.

While Indianapolis’ downtown real estate market still struggles, other cities are leaning on downtown office space for new leases. Nationwide, downtown districts accounted for 42% of leasing activity in the final three months of the year, despite comprising just 35% of overall supply, CBRE reported. Leasing rose 8% year-over-year in 2025, while suburban activity fell 7% over the same period.

In Indianapolis, those numbers are much lower: Just 17% of leases during the same timeframe were located downtown.

The stats are not too worrisome to experts, as Indianapolis typically lags behind the bigger coastal markets, Forslund said. But Indianapolis will need to decide where it wants to go in the future, whether that means upgrading older buildings or converting more empty space to apartments and hotels.

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“I refer to it as we are still in our teenage years, trying to figure out what we want to be,” Forslund said.

Indy employers will have to get more creative, or less picky, in the near future as supply dries up on the booming north side market. For instance, Midtown Carmel sits virtually full. And just one commercial office building for rent is under construction in Hamilton County, the Union at Fishers District, a mixed-use development with luxury office space set to open in early 2027 next to IKEA.

Elsewhere around the area, companies are constructing build-to-own properties but those won’t be available to other companies looking for open space and workstations for their employees. Those projects include Republic Airways’ corporate headquarters expansion in Carmel, a Merchants Bank project in Carmel and Elanco’s new headquarters, which opened in October on the west side of Indianapolis.

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As building new office space has become more and more expensive, more landlords are choosing to reinvest in and upgrade their existing offices in a bid to make them more attractive, Svarczkopf said.

“Based on the way the market is right now, they have to upgrade in order to compete,” Svarczkopf said. “The ones that have been successful have gone through the process of reinvesting in the property.”

Even with upgrades, the competition will be hot. At Indiana Members Credit Union, employees have responded well to the new office, executives said. Many amenities, like indoor parking that is patrolled, are not available elsewhere downtown.

“It just answered a lot of the questions we had and the amenities we wanted to provide for our team,” Newett said.

Alysa Guffey writes business and development stories for IndyStar. Have a story tip? Contact her at amguffey@usatodayco.com.

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Noblesville man arrested, accused of rape of UIndy student in dorm room

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Noblesville man arrested, accused of rape of UIndy student in dorm room


INDIANAPOLIS (WISH) — A 21-year-old man was arrested and accused of raping a University of Indianapolis student on campus.

Police say the investigation began on Jan. 24 when University of Indianapolis Police received a call from a woman who said she believed she was drugged at a bar in downtown Indianapolis and then raped in her dorm room.

Court documents say she met Marwan Khalaf of Noblesville at the Metro Bar on Massachusetts Avenue and went back to her dorm room, where he repeatedly raped her. When she woke up one of the last times, he was gone.

According to court documents, she next went to shower and passed out again. She woke up in the shower at 7 a.m. Jan. 24 and called 911.

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The student told investigators she had gone out alone on Jan. 23 and took an Uber to a few bars downtown before arriving at the Metro Bar at 12:51 a.m. Jan. 24. Court documents state that’s where she met Khalaf and they danced together.

Court documents say the bar refused to serve the student a drink because she was already intoxicated when she arrived. Khalaf then bought her a shot and they asked her to leave. She says Khalaf left with her and offered to take her home.

The student says she recalls his car being “parked directly across the street from Metro.” According to UIPD Detective Jay Arnold, the student’s identification card was used to enter the dorm at 2:13 a.m.

In an interview with detectives, Khalaf admitted to being at the bar and kissing her, but denied having sexual contact with the student. He told detectives he took care of her because she was drunk and said he left the dorm when it became light outside because his mother was calling him.

Khalaf has been charged with two counts of rape and one count of sexual battery.

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