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Ondis Serves Seasonal Fare With a Side of Community in Montpelier

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Ondis Serves Seasonal Fare With a Side of Community in Montpelier


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  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Compressed watermelon at Ondis

In July 2016, I spent one last day scrubbing down the tiger-lily-orange kitchen walls of my recently closed Montpelier business, Salt Café, and locked the door behind me. Since 2010, when I left my full-time job at Seven Days to open a restaurant, I’d spent nearly every day there, making flourless chocolate cake, rolling out sheets of herbed pasta or washing the dishes when a dishwasher called in sick. When times were tight, which was sometimes for months, I even spent my nights on a bedroll stretched out beneath the dining room tables, dreaming to the burble of chicken stock simmering on the stove.

Salt was located at 207 Barre Street, just steps from Hunger Mountain Co-op, and until three weeks ago, I hadn’t set foot in the building since that summer day eight years ago. What lured me back? One peek at the menu of Ondis, a new restaurant that opened in December after long-lived Kismet — which began in that space, moved downtown for a few years and then returned — closed its doors.

Ondis is co-owned by bartender couple Emma Sanford and Christopher Leighton. (He also owns Après cocktail lounge in Stowe, in partnership with Mirror Mirror owner Lindsay Chisholm.) They hired culinary school grad and longtime area chef Max Vogel to run the kitchen. Together, the trio serves up a playful, creative seasonal menu with exceptionally crafted drinks that put fresh twists on the classics. The restaurant vibe is cool and urban, with neutral tones on the walls and concrete and metal accents in the décor. There are just 20 indoor seats, but the opening of a seasonal patio will double the capacity.

click to enlarge Christopher Leighton and Emma Sanford of Ondis - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Christopher Leighton and Emma Sanford of Ondis

“Something I really enjoy about our space being so small,” Leighton said, “is that it feels like something you’d find in a city, in some way … It’s a space where people can translocate.”

On a Thursday evening in late March, entering Ondis from the quiet, chilly residential street and emerging into a sleek, metropolitan restaurant, filled with customers shooting oysters and clinking glasses of wine, did feel something like walking into a wardrobe and landing in Narnia. After taking a seat near a collection of cookbooks and some potted plants, a friend and I pored over the winter menu, which has since changed for spring.

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At the next table, Sofia and Michael Philbrick — coincidentally, customers of mine at Salt and now fervid Ondis regulars — insisted that we order the truffle fries ($16). We obeyed, ordering those along with much of the rest of the menu. The fries were labor-intensive and stunning, made by stacking layer after translucent layer of potato, cutting out rectangular slices, and frying them until golden and crisp. They were served with a sunny hemisphere of truffle aioli and topped with a blizzard of shredded cheese and chives.

The Philbricks come to Ondis for the “intimate atmosphere” and excellent service, Sofia said. “I really appreciate the time [Leighton] takes to explain the wine and the dishes,” she noted. She added that she never feels like she’s being rushed, even when all the tables are full.

Other pros for the Philbricks include the interesting selection of sauces that accompany the raw oysters, the price-to-quality ratio and the fact that the menu is well designed for people who want to share dishes with their companions.

Given the parade of plates at our table, I was grateful indeed to be splitting with a friend. In addition to the fries, my favorites included Moroccan spiced carrots, blistered but still bright, sprinkled with powdered pistachio and mounded with a tangle of microgreens ($12); plump shrimp perched on a cake of grits, accompanied by seared corn kernels ($17); and pillowy steamed buns stuffed with Korean-style pickles and battered-and-fried oyster mushrooms ($15).

On the new menu, there is still a steamed bun ($20), but now it’s filled with lobster salad and microgreens, drizzled with yuzu-flavored Japanese mayo. A mezze appetizer, featuring a selection of dips and dippables, has been transmuted into an entrée with the addition of lamb kebabs and homemade flatbread ($40).

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click to enlarge Sea scallops with pancetta, beech mushrooms, bok choy and cognac-miso beurre blanc - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Sea scallops with pancetta, beech mushrooms, bok choy and cognac-miso beurre blanc

There are completely fresh items, too: pork belly with ramp cream and apple-fennel slaw ($12); chicken congee with crispy chicken skin and chile oil ($20); and sea scallops with pancetta, beech mushrooms, bok choy and cognac-miso beurre blanc ($18).

At the moment, the food list is happily heavy on seafood thanks to deliveries from Wood Mountain Fish, and the owners are continuing to build relationships with Montpelier-area farmers and artisans. “We want to work with smaller producers who are doing stuff off the beaten path,” Leighton explained. In the past, he’s purchased seaberries and tiny northern kiwis from East Hill Tree Farm in Plainfield to use in cocktails.

On the current drink list — which bridges the liminal space between blizzards, mud and the first tender moments of spring — there are still what Sanford refers to as “spirit-forward” drinks that feel warming in chilly weather and hint at sunnier times to come. Think vodka with celery shrub and fresh pineapple ($13) and tequila milk punch flavored with tulsi, rose and lime ($14).

click to enlarge Tequila milk punch - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Tequila milk punch

The one truly classic drink on the menu is a gin and tonic ($10) in honor of Sanford’s late mother, for whom the restaurant is named. Sanford, who grew up in nearby Marshfield, learned to love food and drink, and sharing them with community, from her family.

“My parents always cooked, and their friends were always over having dinner parties,” she recalled. “Dining was this special thing of getting everyone together. It held importance to me, and when we were naming [the restaurant], that spoke to us.”

Leighton and Sanford live in Plainfield, and both previously tended bar in Montpelier at Barr Hill. When they learned that Kismet was closing, they began dreaming of opening a business there, close to home.

“We went back and forth on what we wanted the space to be,” Sanford recalled. “Chris and I are both bar people, but there’s a commercial kitchen, so it seemed kind of silly not to do food.”

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But the couple couldn’t find a chef who seemed like a good fit and were resigned to serving only drinks and snacks. Then, just before the opening, Vogel — a New England Culinary Institute grad who was running the kitchen at the Reservoir in Waterbury — showed up for an interview.

“Max has been entirely in charge of the food program, and we’re really appreciative to have him,” Leighton said. “We give him the space to be creative, and the business runs with him, because of him. He’s super talented.”

With three visionaries packed into a sardine can of a kitchen, how does the menu-planning process work? First, Vogel “will lay out his brainchild,” Leighton said. “We’ll collectively look at it and make decisions about what we think will work and what might not work.”

If a dish excites the trio but would be hard to source for an entire season, it might become a special. “We do a seasonal menu that will be the skeleton for three months,” Leighton noted, “but something will change nearly every day.”

Although the drinks are intended to complement the food, Sanford explained, they are not necessarily created with specific pairings in mind. “It’s more based on seasonality,” she said. The use of fresh, local ingredients in both the food and the cocktails — including herbs and specialty items grown by the owners in their garden — creates a harmony that makes the complex beverages and intricate dishes taste great together.

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click to enlarge Blueberry and white chocolate ice cream sandwich - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • Blueberry and white chocolate ice cream sandwich

With all the buzz around their business, managing a small number of seats could be a tricky task. So Sanford and Leighton eschew reservations and instead use a wait list for in-person and online table requests. Locals can drop onto the list digitally, from the comfort of their living rooms. After receiving a text that a table is available, they have 15 minutes to scoot over to Ondis and claim it.

I caught Knayte Lander, co-owner of Buch Spieler Records, on the way to band practice prior to dinner at Ondis. Lander is impressed by the restaurant’s execution. “Their cocktail is, like, ‘vodka cocktail,’ and then it comes out, and it’s simple in its presentation yet completely unmakeable by [me],” he said. “They’re not showboating … They’re just really well trained at what they’re doing.”

Leighton summed up the philosophy that he and Sanford share: “We take the extra time and do the simple things really well. It makes all the difference.”

Diners seem to appreciate the effort. “The town is struggling to recover from a flood,” Lander said, referring to last July’s catastrophic rainfall. “Montpelier is having a rough day, but for a whole year. My aunt used to say that in times of distress, frivolity is important. Ondis isn’t frivolous, but it’s helping people feel OK right now.”

Lander echoed Leighton’s observation about Ondis having a different feel from its immediate environs, and from Montpelier in general. “Ondis is giving this otherworldly vibe,” he mused. “It seems equal parts European and incredibly urban, with attention to detail plus a very nice, comfortable atmosphere. It’s not your home. You’re transported.”

For a moment in time, the Ondis space actually was my home, and I’d worried that it would be painful to be back. Because the space was lovely and the food was exciting and the company was friendly, it wasn’t.

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Vermont

19 Vermont school budgets fail as education leaders debate need for reform

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19 Vermont school budgets fail as education leaders debate need for reform


MONTPELIER, Vt. (WCAX) – Most Vermont school budgets passed Tuesday, but 19 districts and supervisory unions saw their spending plans rejected — an uptick from the nine that failed in 2025, though well below the 29 that failed in 2024.

Some education leaders say the results show communities are largely supportive of their schools.

“We’re starting to kind of equalize out again towards the normal trend of passage of school budgets each year,” said Chelsea Meyers of the Vermont Superintendents Association.

Sue Ceglowski of the Vermont School Boards Association said the results send a clear message. “Vermont taxpayers support Vermont’s public schools,” she said.

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Meyers said the results also raise questions about the scope of education reform being considered in Montpelier. “If we are going to reform the system, it might not require sweeping broad changes as are being considered right now, but a more concise approach to consider that inequity,” she said.

But in districts where budgets failed, officials say structural changes are still needed. In Barre, where the budget failed, Barre Unified Union School District Board Chair Michael Boutin said the Legislature must, at a minimum, create a new funding formula. “We have to have that in order to avoid the huge increases and decreases — the huge increases that we’ve seen in the last couple years,” Boutin said.

He said the rise in school budgets is separate from why property owners are seeing sharp tax increases. The average state increase in school budgets is 4%, but the average property tax increase is 10%, driven by cost factors including health care. “There’s a complete disconnect, and that’s a product of the terrible system that we have in Vermont with our funding formula,” Boutin said.

Ceglowski says the state should address health care costs before moving forward with rapid education policy changes. “Addressing the rapid rise in the cost of school employees’ health benefits by ensuring a fair and balanced statewide bargaining process for those benefits,” she said.

The 19 districts that did not pass their budgets will need to draft new spending plans to present to voters, which often requires cuts. Twelve school districts are scheduled to vote at a later date.

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6 of the Quirkiest Towns in Vermont

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6 of the Quirkiest Towns in Vermont


Vermont is, for many visitors, the postcard-perfect New England state. A part of the United States since 1791, the first to join the Union after the Thirteen Original Colonies, Vermont has many unique, and sometimes quirky, features. The place has attracted artists and other creative geniuses, some of them decidedly eccentric, from its earliest days. The natural parts of Vermont, like the famous Lake Champlain, offer unusual points of interest for visitors and locals alike. With a state as rich in traveling attractions, it should be little wonder that some of them come with a quirk or two.

Montpelier

Summer Farmers Market in Montpelier, Vermont. Editorial credit: Phill Truckle / Shutterstock.com

Montpelier, while being Vermont’s charming capital, is the tiniest among all US state capitals with just around 8,000 residents. For comparison, the second-smallest, Pierre in South Dakota, has a population of about 14,000. Established in 1787, this historic town warmly welcomes visitors with a variety of landmarks, including the Vermont History Museum and the sprawling 200-acre Hubbard Park. The State House is also open to the public for tours. Just a short drive west, less than an hour away, lies Lake Champlain, one of the Northeast’s most beloved watersides.

The town’s name pays homage to Montpellier, a beautiful city in southern France. This naming reflected the high regard for France at the time, especially for their support during the US War of Independence. Interestingly, Montpelier has experienced its share of flooding, with significant damage occurring in the years 1927, 1992, and most recently in 2023.

Elmore

Lake Elmore State Part with beautiful autumn foliage and water reflections at Elmore, Vermont
Lake Elmore State Part with beautiful autumn foliage and water reflections at Elmore, Vermont

Elmore, a charming small town in Lamoille County with fewer than 900 residents, is a favorite spot for autumn leaf-peepers. Located north of Montpelier, this peaceful town has its own unique charm, including several local landmarks sharing the name ‘Elmore,’ which adds to its character. It’s important to note that Elmore town is separate from East Elmore. To the west, Elmore Mountain overlooks the area, while Elmore State Park lies just north of the town itself. Enjoying waterside beauty, Elmore Lake is often listed among Vermont’s most picturesque lakes, with its waters flowing into the Lamoille River through Elmore Pond Brook. Like Montpelier, Elmore is situated east of Lake Champlain. For those seeking a more bustling scene or a change of pace, the vibrant city of Burlington, just an hour’s drive west, makes for a perfect day trip or weekend getaway.

Stowe

Aerial view of Stowe Vermont and autumn colors.
Aerial view of Stowe Vermont and autumn colors.

Stowe, with a lively population of 5,300, is Vermont’s top spot for adrenaline seekers and the eccentrics among us, earning its reputation as the state’s premier ski and snowboard destination. The Stowe Mountain Resort proudly calls itself the “ski capital of the east”—that’s the eastern United States. Nestled near the breathtaking Mount Mansfield, Stowe offers more than just winter fun; warmer months bring plenty of activities like hiking and mountain biking in the beautiful Cady Hill Forest.

The town also has a rich history, being the home of Jake Burton Carpenter (1954-2019), the visionary behind Burton Snowboards and a trailblazer in making snowboarding an international sport. While some might have called him eccentric when he launched his company in 1977, today he’s celebrated as a true pioneer whose legacy keeps inspiring young snow sports enthusiasts, like those at Mount Mansfield Winter Academy, a special school dedicated to nurturing the next generation of champions.

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Manchester

View of the historic and colorful Manchester Village in Manchester, Vermont with tulips in bloom
View of the historic and colorful Manchester Village in Manchester, Vermont with tulips in bloom

Manchester, a town with 4,500 residents located in southwest Vermont, is popular among art and architecture enthusiasts. It features Hildene, the estate of Abraham Lincoln’s son Robert, which boasts an impressive Georgian Revival house and grounds. The town’s American Museum of Fly Fishing showcases numerous rods, flies, and related gear, attracting many superstitious anglers. Manchester is also home to Orvis, a renowned fishing and clothing company. The Southern Vermont Arts Center hosts exhibitions, and includes a sculpture garden and performance space. Nature lovers should visit Mount Equinox, west of town, or explore the Green Mountain National Forest to the south.

Eccentric fact: Jonathan Goldsmith, known for portraying “The World’s Most Interesting Man” in Dos Equis commercials, resides in Manchester. Stay quirky, my friends.

Brattleboro

Historic downtown of Brattleboro, Vermont.
Historic downtown of Brattleboro, Vermont. Image credit jenlo8 via Shutterstock

Brattleboro, with a population of 12,100, sits along the Connecticut River and features a variety of attractions and oddities. Located just west of New Hampshire—in which the Connecticut River forms the border—and just north of Massachusetts, the town is an ideal midpoint for exploring the wider New England region. Outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate Fort Dummer State Park, welcoming hikers, bikers, and campers alike. Among the more renowned eccentric figures in history, British writer Rudyard Kipling moved to Brattleboro after marrying a Vermont woman in 1892. Their home, Naulakha, references his birth and childhood in India. Kipling believed that Brattleboro’s conservative small-town culture created an

Woodstock

Snowy day at the farm in Woodstock.
Snowy day at the farm in Woodstock. Editorial credit: James Kirkikis / Shutterstock.com

Woodstock, a town with 3,000 residents located in upstate New York, is separate from the famous 1969 cultural event. This southeastern town attracts architecture enthusiasts, particularly for the First Congregational Church, built in 1807 and featuring a bell cast by American revolutionary Paul Revere, and the Norman Williams Public Library, completed in 1884. For outdoor activities, visitors can walk in Woodstock Town Forest, located south of the town, or enjoy panoramic views from the Marsh Billings Rockefeller National Historical Park, the only part of the US National Park system in Vermont besides the Appalachian Trail. Recently, Woodstock has modernized its infrastructure with digital technology, launching the “Wireless Woodstock” initiative in 2011, which provides free Wi-Fi across the entire town. It’s not quirky; it’s just cool.

Vermont’s Quirky Small Towns May Also Be Its Best

These small Vermont towns show the state’s sometimes quirky, but never boring character. Architecture fans will find unusual, beautiful examples state-wide. Montpelier is an oddly pint-sized capital with heavyweight history. Brattleboro has long attracted strange, sometimes brilliant types, whether foreign or domestic. Manchester is interesting enough for the World’s Most Interesting Man. And with abundant natural parks, the Green Mountains, and the majesty of Lake Elmore and Lake Champlain, the quirks of Vermont’s best features should attract even the most straight-laced visitors.



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Vermont postal worker allegedly threw away mail she was supposed to deliver for months

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Vermont postal worker allegedly threw away mail she was supposed to deliver for months


Crime

During a search of a dumpster where the worker allegedly discarded the mail, police found several packages and holiday cards.

A Vermont postal worker was cited and suspended for allegedly throwing away mail that was supposed to be delivered to other people, according to police.

Natasha Morisseau, 34, of North Troy, was cited on nine counts of petty larceny and five counts of unlawful mischief, Vermont State Police said in a statement. She works as a mail carrier for the town’s United States Postal Service (USPS) office.

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Officers were first alerted to the discarded mail on the afternoon of Jan. 23, according to police. Upon finding the mail in a dumpster on Elm Street in North Troy, they determined that none of it was for that address.

Police identified Morisseau as a person of interest and learned that she was a postal employee. They confirmed that she had regularly been throwing away a small amount of mail under her care since at least October 2025, according to the statement.

After searching the dumpster and Morisseau’s mail vehicle, officers found opened and unopened packages, along with several holiday cards, one of which contained money. Morisseau was later cited Feb. 14 and is due to appear March 17 in Vermont Superior Court, police said.

Since Jan. 23, Morisseau has been suspended by USPS, and all recovered mail has been given back to them for delivery, according to the statement. The case has been forwarded to the USPS’ Inspector General for further review.

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