CASPER, Wyo. — “Taken in Casper, Wyoming before the sun rose,” writes photographer Tashina Williams.
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The collapse of a vital road connecting workers in Idaho to jobs in Wyoming is bringing new attention to a longstanding schism between the ultra-wealthy and the people who cater to them.
Billionaires and investors have been pushing home prices in Jackson, Wyoming, into the stratosphere for years, forcing workers to live further and further away from their jobs.
Already burdened by long commutes, people who work at hospitals, outfitters and landscaping companies now face an indefinite road closure that is upending their lives yet is unlikely to impact their wealthy clients.
What started as a crack in the Teton Pass last week turned into a massive landslide that closed a 10-mile stretch of road, which serves as a main gateway between Idaho and Jackson, Wyoming.
Transportation officials said the “catastrophic failure” would take several months to repair. Meantime, a two-lane detour should be completed within weeks, according to the Wyoming Department of Transportation.
The rush comes as the tourist high season gets underway in the Rocky Mountains, where some 15,000 people are expected to descend on nearby Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks each day.
Closing the Teton Pass for even a few weeks means cutting off a vital artery for people who live in Idaho but work in Jackson, a mountain and ski haven that has become a playground for Hollywood celebrities, tech tycoons and billionaires looking to get away from city life.
“The landslide really shines a ton of light on how unsustainable our community is,” said Jacob Gore, a Wyoming native who lives in Idaho because of rising costs. “I just accepted that I will never own a home in Jackson unless I win the lottery.”
At St. John’s Medical Center in Jackson, about 20% of health care workers commute from the Teton Valley on the other side of the pass. This includes 115 essential workers who need to be on site every day, according to hospital spokesperson Karen Connelly.
Many of those workers face 12-hour shifts and cannot accommodate an additional four to six hours a day of driving time, Connelly told Teton County commissioners this week during a hearing.
On average, more than 2,500 people commute daily from Idaho to Jackson, which is located in the wealthiest county in the United States, with a median income of more than $108,000, compared to Teton County, Idaho, where the median income is $89,000, according to U.S. Census data.
Home prices between the neighboring counties vary exponentially. On the Wyoming side, the median home price is more than $3 million compared to about $800,000 in Idaho.
The allure of snow-capped mountain peaks and crystal clear lakes has long attracted both homesteaders and business leaders. Moguls like Ted Turner, Jeff Bezos and Warren Buffett each own hundreds of thousands of acres of land in the West, and the federal government controls about 50% of land from Kansas to the Pacific Ocean.
Competition to build, own and rent is fierce in the most desirable areas, including gateway communities to national parks. Demand only increased during the pandemic, as remote workers sought to relocate.
“We’re working our butts off so the billionaires can have nice gardens to look at in their vacation homes that they spend a few weeks in a year,” said Rory Nelson, who lives in Victor, Idaho, and owns a small gardening company in Jackson.
“It’s heartbreaking because this is my home,” he said, adding that he is now driving up to six hours a day because of the road closure.
Many people who live in communities like Victor and Driggs in the Teton Valley say they are now forced to choose between spending a full day in the car or finding temporary housing closer to work.
Idaho resident Gore runs a wildlife tour company and said he woke up to several missed calls from frantic clients and employees when news spread about the landslide. One tour guide, who lives in Driggs, opted to sleep in his car the night before an early morning outing rather than wake up at 3 a.m. to pick up his clients in Jackson at 6 a.m.
“If just one of these billionaires wanted to step in and help out, our community would change for the better,” he said. “But our workers aren’t thought of until their favorite restaurant closes.”
Since the road closure, John Thomas Smaellie, a construction superintendent from Driggs, has been snaking his way south on Highway 33 into a neighboring valley and around a lake before turning north toward Jackson.
While he describes the two- to three-hour commute as “absolutely gorgeous,” Smaellie is missing crucial time away from his family. His 7-year-old daughter is the youngest rodeo princess in their town and requires hours of rehearsal and preparation before competitions, he said.
On Wednesday night, rather than help her get ready for an upcoming pageant, Smaellie was stuck on the road.
“Is my job really worth missing these things?” he asked. “I know they’re going to have a temporary road, but is it going to last? Emotionally, it’s very taxing to be at work knowing that if I left right now I could be home in time.”
Smaellie, a fifth-generation Driggs resident, has watched prices in his hometown skyrocket as “billionaires drive out the millionaires” from Jackson, a popular refrain among locals.
When he was young, Smaellie’s parents bought a home and other investment properties on their public school salaries, he said. Smaellie, however, is forced to rent even as gated communities are built around him.
For his workers, who earn between $60,000 and $70,000 a year, even renting is unaffordable. Six members of his crew share a two-bedroom apartment, he said.
Still, the idea of relocating his family outside the region is unfathomable.
“I would like my kids to see their father’s grave when I pass away,” he said. “I can go see my great-great-great grandfather’s grave in Tetonia. That is where my bitterness comes from.”
Like other regions that cater to luxury resorts, housing affordability in Jackson has been a problem for decades.
In 2020, the county set the goal of housing 65% of workers within its limits. Currently the county is at roughly 60%, according to housing director April Norton.
“There is a recognition that without permanently protecting homes for local workers, we might run out of them,” she said.
Chase Putnam, who owns a fishing outfitter in Jackson, is opening his eight-person camper to anyone in need of temporary accommodations. He bristled when asked about the affordability crisis and accused county commissioners of not acting quickly enough to secure housing for workers.
“I can barely rub two dimes together and I’m the one stepping in?” he said.
When asked for comment, the Board of County Commissioners referred questions to the housing authority.
“If there is political will, then certainly there are things to look at it,” Norton said of building more workforce housing. “But it comes down to politicians, so we’ll see what happens.”
On Wednesday, the commissioners approved an ordinance that will temporarily allow camping units and mobile homes in all zones until the road reopens. But because 97% of surrounding land is owned by the federal government, it will largely be up to private landowners to welcome people in need.
While any permanent housing solution is years away, local residents are stepping in to offer immediate help. Melissa Thomasma, who lives in Victor, Idaho, created a mutual aid Facebook group after the landslide.
The nearly 2,000-member account is filled with posts from people offering campers, carpools and even audiobook credits for the long commute.
“That’s such a core value of our community,” she said. “You lend a hand when you can.”
In a trench meant for a sewer line, a Wyoming ranch family found a massive, nearly spherical boulder that was so out of place, it left them bursting with questions.
Scott Coale and his son William, 18, were digging a trench recently on the Hogg Ranch near Meeteetse, a historic homestead that had been in Scott’s family for over 100 years.
A stubborn and unexpected obstacle blocked the ditch they were digging, interrupting their work.
They found they’d struck a huge boulder that by all appearances, shouldn’t have been there.
“We’d been in putting in a sewer line to a cabin,” Scott said. “There’s no rocks here at all. We were having smooth sailing, and then, all of a sudden, the backhoe struggles.”
William got out of the skid steer he was using to backfill and was surprised by what he found.
“I asked him how big it was because it was in the middle of our ditch to run the sewer line,” Scott said. “He tells me that it is as big as the side-by-side. At first, we’re just kind of joking, but then I realize I don’t know if I can get it out.”
Scott called a friend with a backhoe and they tackled the boulder.
“I had some daylight left and got on the side of it and started digging,” he said. “Next thing I know, I got it out the hole with the backhoe. It was this big old round rock. It just amazed us that it was so perfectly round.”
They set the rock to the side and resumed their chores, although distracted as they tried to figure out what they had found. The boulder is about 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide.
“It’s just weird,” Scott said. “The geology of Wyoming is a great thing. You never know what you’re going to find.”
The family was especially surprised to find the giant boulder because the area it was unearthed in is devoid of rocks.
“I’ve never personally seen anything like that,” William said. “We were just digging and then bam, there is this big old boulder in the ground that’s not normally shaped.”
Unsure of what they had unearthed, Scott’s wife Diane posted the find on the Facebook page Wyoming Rockhounder. She asked if they should try to open it and see what was inside.
There was much debate, but the consensus from other rock enthusiasts was that it’s a sandstone concretion.
“I thought it was interesting that people commented about maybe it was a geode or what might be in it,” Diane said. “So, we did a little bit of research and the geodes are found in limestone rather than sandstone.
“The likelihood of us cutting it up and finding a geode is probably pretty minimal, so we kind of want to leave it the way it is.”
That is a good idea, said geologist and owner of Ava’s Silver and Rock Shop in Thermopolis.
Ava Cole has more than 50 years of experience in the field and is familiar with this type of rock.
“There’s quite a few places around Wyoming that have them,” Cole said. “Sometimes there are iron stains in the middle of them, but they’re not worth cutting into — unless you want to sharpen your blade.”
Concretions are commonly misunderstood geologic structures, according to the Paleontological Research Institution.
Often mistaken for fossil eggs, turtle shells or bones, they are not fossils. They’re rocks. This common geologic phenomenon occurs in almost all types of sedimentary rock, including sandstones, shales, siltstones and limestones.
There may be fossils surrounding the concretions if it’s in shale but not inside the rock itself.
“The concretions that you find in the shale may have fossils in the shale or crystals,” Cole said. “The concretions themselves are just sandstone. There are no fossils in them. The fossils are not in the sandstone layers, they’re in the shale layers.”
These concretions form inside sediments before they harden into rocks in continuous layers around a nucleus such as a shell or pebble.
Rates of this formation vary, but can sometimes be relatively rapid over as short a period as months to years, the Paleontological Research Institution reports.
“There’s a void in the ground,” Cole said. “It’s like a magnetism to them that attracts different minerals until the sand forms tightly around them. There’s some kind of quartz in it, too. It’s microscopic, but they’re not hollow or anything like that. Not like a geode.”
“I’ve collected them before and sold them, but don’t get much money out of them,” Cole said. “Even if the family wanted to, they probably couldn’t get anybody to cut it because it is a pretty good-sized rock and you’d have to have a big diamond saw to cut it.
“Anything that big [when] you cut it open, it would be futile because what’s on the outside is mostly on the inside.”
Her suggestion is to let it just sit around in the yard – since it’s always nice to have a round circle rock hanging around.
That is exactly what the Coales plan to do.
“It’s going to be a yard ornament,” Scott said. “I want to be able to showcase it in our front yard. I think it’s cool.”
These concretions are found throughout the Cowboy State and can be collected even on BLM land.
“A lot of people pick them up,” Cole said. “Between Worland and Ten Sleep, on Rattlesnake Ridge, there’s a whole bunch of them, all different sizes and shapes since they’re not always round. They can be like a peanut or anything like that.”
The Coale family are already avid rockhounds. They have interesting formations on their property that they explore and one area on the historic ranch is dubbed Death Valley because, according to William, it looks like the badlands.
That was why they were even more surprised to find this rock in an area where they normally would not be looking.
“I’m the rock person in the family,” Diane said. “We’d always go find petrified wood and stuff ever since I was a kid but I’m pretty excited about this rock.”
This plain, nearly perfectly round boulder has been added to their family collection as the centerpiece.
Jackie Dorothy can be reached at jackie@cowboystatedaily.com.
LARAMIE, Wyo. — The UND women’s basketball team went into Christmas break by committing a season-high 29 turnovers in a 73-41 loss at Wyoming on Saturday afternoon.
The Fighting Hawks, who were outscored 17-3 in the fourth quarter, dropped to 5-8 overall with two Division I wins.
UND ranks last in the Summit League in turnovers at 17.7 per game. The team is also last in the Summit in assists with 314.
Wyoming, which improved to 6-6, also beat South Dakota by 34 earlier this season.
UND was led by Grafton native Walker Demers, who finished with 13 points. No other Hawk ended with more than six points.
Grand Forks freshman point guard Jocelyn Schiller and sophomore Nevaeh Ferrara Horne both added six points.
Coming off a season-high 25 points against Mayville State, Kiera Pemberton was held to four points on just 2-for-3 shooting against Wyoming. She had six turnovers.
Pemberton, a sophomore from Langley, B.C., had scored in double figures in every other UND game this season.
The Hawks trailed by five after the first quarter and 13 at halftime.
UND cut the lead as close as 10 in the third quarter but trailed by 18 by the end of the frame.
UND was just 2-for-13 from 3-point range with Demers 0-for-4 and reserve Sydney Piekny 1-for-5.
Wyoming committed just 10 turnovers and had 17 assists. Three players finished in double figures, led by Tess Barnes with 16 points.
UND only shot four free throws — all by Demers, who was 3-for-4.
UND starts the post-Christmas schedule on the road, at Omaha on Jan. 2 and at Kansas City on Jan. 4.
The Hawks return home Jan. 9 against Oral Roberts and Jan. 11 against Denver.
Staff reports and local scoreboards from the Grand Forks Herald Sports desk.
CASPER, Wyo. — “Taken in Casper, Wyoming before the sun rose,” writes photographer Tashina Williams.
Do you have a photo that captures the beauty of Wyoming? Submit it by clicking here and filling out the form, and we may share it!
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