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This eagerly awaited S.F. restaurant won’t ever earn three Michelin stars — and that’s a good thing

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This eagerly awaited S.F. restaurant won’t ever earn three Michelin stars — and that’s a good thing


If you look at James Yeun Leong Parry’s resume, one interpretation is that things start to go off the rails around 2018. That’s when, after stints at fine-dining restaurants helmed by celebrity chefs in Hong Kong, London, Tokyo and San Francisco, he left Benu for a position at Palette Tea House. 

No disrespect to Palette, a high-volume restaurant in Ghirardelli Square that traffics in newfangled dim sum, such as taro puff swans, their lacy bodies blackened with charcoal, and har gow skewered with pipettes of lobster butter sauce. But a certain breed of ambitious chef would note that it has three fewer Michelin stars than Benu. (Which is to say, none.) Parry’s pivot is the equivalent of a violinist leaving the symphony to take up the fiddle with a bluegrass band.

Now, with three years as head chef at Palette under his belt and several more running successful tasting menu popups, Parry has struck out on his own. After months of frothy anticipation, the Happy Crane opened in August in Hayes Valley. A modern Chinese restaurant, it sings the greatest hits from Hong Kong (where Parry spent much of his youth), Beijing, Chongqing and beyond with a California accent. It’s the opening salvo of a chef with a point of view, and a welcome addition to the city’s contemporary Asian culinary scene.

Patrons dining at the bar, where half the seating is reserved for walk-ins, at the Happy Crane.

Patrons dining at the bar, where half the seating is reserved for walk-ins, at the Happy Crane.

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Santiago Mejia/S.F. Chronicle

It’s possible to engage with the Happy Crane’s menu on multiple levels, depending on your familiarity with — or desire to be educated about — Chinese cuisine. An appetizer of a split bao, griddled in brown butter and topped with chicken liver mousse and thinly sliced coppa ($11 per piece), could conceivably be at home in a New American restaurant serving deviled eggs and an heirloom tomato salad. But the curious might ask about the name of the dish, “golden coin,” which is a reference to the esoteric Cantonese snack gum tsin gai, or gold coin chicken. Originating as sustenance for the working class, it was a way for roast meat specialists to sell char siu offcuts, pork fat and chicken livers, all stacked on a skewer, glazed with sticky-sweet sauce then served sandwiched in a bun.

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The staff at the Happy Crane, while gregarious, are not walking encyclopedias. They might mention that an entrée of fish-fragrant fish featuring local lingcod ($48) is a cheeky nod to fish-fragrant eggplant, a dish that contains no fish whatsoever, but they’re far from pedants. Unless you drive the conversation, you might not learn about the braising technique applied to the beef shin ($18), or jiang niu rou, a process whereby the meat is babied for nine hours in master stock. This flavor-packed liquid, a sweetened mix of soy and shiaoxing wine infused with spices and aromatics, shares common ground with a sourdough mother or sherry aged using the solera method: After each braise, the master stock is saved and topped up, a never-ending continuum of flavor that will, presumably, only get better as the Happy Crane gets older.

The Happy Crane’s “golden coin,” made with chicken liver mousse and thinly sliced coppa, is a reference to the esoteric Cantonese snack gum tsin gai, or gold coin chicken.

The Happy Crane’s “golden coin,” made with chicken liver mousse and thinly sliced coppa, is a reference to the esoteric Cantonese snack gum tsin gai, or gold coin chicken.

Lea Suzuki/S.F. Chronicle

The beef shin and celery root at the Happy Crane restaurant in San Francisco on Thursday, Oct. 09, 2025.
The Happy Crane restaurant in San Francisco on Thursday, Oct. 09, 2025.

The beef shin and celery root, left, and a pair of drinks, right, at the Happy Crane.

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Photos by Santiago Mejia/S.F. Chronicle

The beef shin and celery root, above, and a pair of drinks, below, at the Happy Crane.

Photos by Santiago Mejia/S.F. Chronicle

What results is an impossibly tender and savory cut of beef that, thinly sliced and still rosy in the center, is what roast beef wishes it could be. Parry then gives it a mala xiang guo treatment, dressing it with a Sichuan peppercorn vinaigrette and plating it with some vegetables that are commonly found in dry hot pot (celtuce, fried lotus root) and some that decidedly aren’t (last month, creamy confited artichoke hearts). It’s a masterpiece.

The same consideration for balance — crunch meeting softness, acid tempering richness — is evident in the char siu pork jowl ($43). Glistening with its maltose glaze, the sweet, fatty roast pork begs for something sharp and structured. Parry pairs it with shaved raw fennel — mirroring the licoricey notes in the five-spiced marinade — and intense, translucent crescents of green apple that are infused, under vacuum pressure, with lime juice and ginger. I’d like to keep a jar of those pickled apple slices in my fridge to munch on whenever I need to feel alive.

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The char siu pork jowl with raw fennel and thin slices of green apple that are infused, under vacuum pressure, with lime juice and ginger.

The char siu pork jowl with raw fennel and thin slices of green apple that are infused, under vacuum pressure, with lime juice and ginger.

Santiago Mejia/S.F. Chronicle

Parry’s attention to texture is so dialed in for his most successful dishes that the ones that fall short come as genuine surprises. A saucy crab rice roll ($32) made with steamed rice noodles that are milled in house should have been a triumph, but the cheung fun was frail, lacking chew and integrity. And the main crunch came not from the celery but, unfortunately, bits of crab shell. 

Whether fair or not, diners will want to know where to mentally situate the Happy Crane among San Francisco’s other titans of modern Chinese cuisine; I look forward to a time when, like Cal-Italian restaurants, there are so many excellent examples that we no longer have to play them off one another. On the casual-to-swank spectrum, it falls solidly in between Four Kings and Mister Jiu’s — both on our list of the top 100 restaurants in the Bay Area. It’s a date night or pre-theater spot where the service is informal and, although a tasting option exists ($120 per person), the menu does not aspire to fine-dining pageantry. 

Parry’s time in exacting, three-star kitchens is evident — the knife work, the plating, the wink-wink cleverness — even in humble stir fries and smacked cucumber salads. Kate Moss without makeup still has cheekbones. But I, for one, am grateful he chose a less buttoned-up road. I don’t dislike a tasting menu, but that $18 beef shin deserves to be eaten by everyone.

A staffer is seen waiting at the pass at the Happy Crane.

A staffer is seen waiting at the pass at the Happy Crane.

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Santiago Mejia/S.F. Chronicle

The Happy Crane

451 Gough St., San Francisco. thehappycranesf.com

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Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible, no outdoor seating

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Meal for two, without drinks: $125-$240 (for the “happy as a crane” tasting menu, which is $120 per person)

What to order: Ginger scallion scallop ($18); beef shin ($18); golden coin ($11 per piece); oyster pancake ($28); char siu pork jowl ($43); Peking duck service ($110, by preorder); mango sago sorbet ($14)

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Meat-free options: Smacked cucumber and smoked figs ($14); snap pea dumplings ($7 per piece); maitake biang biang noodles ($36)

Drinks: Spend some quality time with the drink menu, which features gorgeous original artwork by Parry’s sister, Yolande Lui Parry. Creative cocktails ($17-$20) with housemade cordials incorporate Asian flavors; try the Serpent’s Kiss, which layers miso and hot mustard atop an agave base, but skip the too salty non-alcoholic Flying Nimbus. A couple Taiwanese beers and a dozen or so wines by the glass, with Advanced Sommelier Justin Chin on-site to assist with bottle selection.

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Best practices: The blazing hotness of the Happy Crane currently makes securing a reservation challenging, but eventually this will become an excellent pre-opera/symphony option for the Civic Center crowd. Half the bar is reserved for walk-ins, if you’re striking out on Open Table.



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San Francisco firefighters to retire uniforms linked to cancer

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San Francisco firefighters to retire uniforms linked to cancer


San Francisco firefighters are finally getting the protective gear they were promised after years’ long research revealed certain chemicals used in traditional firefighter uniforms can cause cancer.

“What none of us could have known is that some of the very gear designed to protect us was quietly harming us,” said San Francisco Fire Chief Dean Crispen, who spoke alongside dozens of first responders on Thursday as he announced the city’s $3.6 million plan to provide protective equipment to all frontline firefighters by the end of the year.  “This is a joyous occasion for our city.”

San Francisco Fire Chief Dean Crispen was flanked by the mayor, state and local lawmakers, and dozens of first responders on Thursday when detailing the city’s plans to provide new, non-PFAS uniforms to frontline firefighters across San Francisco.

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The San Francisco fire department, the tenth largest in the nation, has already distributed the redesigned gear to about 80 of its firefighters and hopes to have all 1,100 of its new uniforms in use within the next three weeks – that’s enough protective equipment to provide one uniform to each of the city’s frontline firefighters.  While city leaders hope to eventually purchase a second set of gear, San Francisco firefighters will, for now, need to wash their new gear before returning to work or continue to rely on their old uniform as a backup.

“Public safety relies on the people who stand between danger and our residents,” Mayor Lurie told the crowd during Thursday’s announcement.  “Firefighter health must always be at the center of our decisions.”

San Francisco’s efforts stem from a first-in-the-nation ban that local lawmakers passed last year, which requires the city to outfit firefighters with new uniforms by July 2026. Over the years, studies have shown the jackets and pants firefighters across America have long relied on to keep safe during emergencies are made with materials proven to cause cancer. 

These so-called “PFAS” materials, often referred to as ‘forever chemicals’ because of their reluctance to breakdown, have long been used to bolster the reliability of firefighter clothing by helping to repel flammable liquids and reduce temperatures, even in extreme heat.  Researchers, however, have found the compounds to be harmful when absorbed through skin. While the precise level of PFAS exposure for firefighters and the associated health risks are still being studied, the compounds have been linked to cancer and other negative health effects impacting cholesterol levels and the immune system, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

PFAS aside, the inherit health risks of firefighting, including prolonged exposure to smoke and ash, led the World Health Organization to deem the occupation a “carcinogen.”  Yet, some fear the very safety uniforms firefighters have come to rely on for protection could also be making them sick. 

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Female firefighters in San Francisco are six times more likely to develop cancer compared to the national average, according to the San Francisco Firefighters Cancer Prevention Foundation.

Female firefighters in San Francisco are six times more likely to develop cancer compared to the national average, according to the San Francisco Firefighters Cancer Prevention Foundation.

In San Francisco, female firefighters have a six times higher rate of breast cancer than the national average, according to the San Francisco Firefighters Cancer Prevention Foundation. More than 400 firefighters in San Francisco have been lost to cancer over the past 20 years, according to the city’s fire department.

“The cost of inaction is measured in funerals,” said Stephen Gilman, who represents the local chapter of the International Association of Fire Fighters (IAFF). “The reward of action is measured in lives saved.”


The cost of inaction is measured in funerals.

Stephen Gilman, International Assoc. of Fire Fighters (IAFF)


While materials laced with PFAS have been shown to pose safety risks, so has fire gear that has been manufactured without it.  Last year, the NBC Bay Area Investigative Unit reported on research from North Carolina State University that found non-PFAS fire equipment to be less breathable and more flammable than traditional uniforms made with PFAS.

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“We don’t want to just trade one hazard for another,” Dr. Bryan Ormand told the Investigative Unit back in May 2024.  “We’re introducing a potential hazard for flammability on the fire scene where firefighters didn’t have that before.”

The San Francisco Board of Supervisors is scheduled to vote Tuesday on a city-wide ban of what are known as ‘PFAS’ or ‘forever chemicals,’ but replacement options still aren’t widely available and those that are seem be raising new safety concerns. Senior Investigator Bigad Shaban reports.

Milliken & Company, the textile firm that made the material for San Francisco’s latest uniforms, said the new type of gear “meets or exceeds” all industry standards for “breathability and thermal protection.” 

“We refused to trade one hazard for another,” Marcio Manique, senior vice president and managing director of Milliken’s apparel business, noted in a written statement.

“It meets the strictest performance standards without adding weight or compromising breathability – giving firefighters exactly what they asked for.”

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We refused to trade one hazard for another

Marcio Manique, senior vice president and managing director of Milliken’s apparel business


In San Francisco, the new gear underwent a 90-day test trial with 50 of the city’s own firefighters.

“What we did was we actually went through a really comprehensive testing process,” Chief Crispen told the Investigative Unit.  “It went to the lab and received testing and everything came back great, so we feel strongly about this product.”


Contact The Investigative Unit

submit tips | 1-888-996-TIPS | e-mail Bigad

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Gas explosion in San Francisco Bay Area damages homes, sends heavy smoke into air

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Gas explosion in San Francisco Bay Area damages homes, sends heavy smoke into air


SAN FRANCISCO — A gas explosion started a major fire in a San Francisco Bay Area neighborhood on Thursday, damaging several homes and sending heavy smoke into the air.

Local outlets said there are possible injuries from the Hayward explosion.

A spokesperson with Pacific Gas & Electric Co. said a construction crew damaged an underground gas line around 7:35 a.m. The company said it was not their workers.

Utility workers isolated the damaged line and stopped the flow of gas at 9:25 a.m., PG&E said. The explosion occurred shortly afterward.

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San Francisco restaurant removes tip from check, adds stability for workers

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San Francisco restaurant removes tip from check, adds stability for workers


It’s another packed night at La Cigale in San Francisco, where chef Joseph Magidow works the hearth like a conductor, each dish part of a high-end Southern French feast for the fifteen diners lucky enough to score a front-row seat. 

It feels like the beginning of any great night out, until you realize this restaurant has quietly removed the part of dining that usually causes the most indigestion.

“You get to the end and all of a sudden you have this check and it’s like a Spirit Airlines bill where it’s like plus this plus plus that,” Magidow said.

So La Cigale made a rare move: they “86ed” the surprise charges, restaurant-speak for taking something off the menu. Dinner here is all-inclusive at $140 per person, but with no tax, no tip, no service fees. Just the price on the menu and that’s the price you pay.

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“There’s no tip line on the check. When you sign the bill, that’s the end of the transaction,” Magidow said. 

Though still rare, across the country, more restaurants are test-driving tip-free dining, a pushback against what many now call “tip-flation.” A recent survey found 41% of Americans think tipping has gotten out of control.

La Cigale customer, Jenny Bennett, said that while she believes in tipping, she liked the idea of waiters being paid a fair wage. 

“Everywhere you go, even for the smallest little item, they’re flipping around the little iPad,” she said. 

At La Cigale, servers make about $40 an hour whether the night is slow or slammed. The upside is stability. The downside? No big-tip windfalls. 

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But for server and sommelier Claire Bivins, it was a trade she was happy to take.

“It creates a little bit of a sense of security for everyone and definitely takes a degree of pressure off from each night,” she said. 

The stability doesn’t end there. La Cigale offers paid vacation, a perk most restaurant workers only dream of.

For Magidow, ditching tips also means leaving behind a system rooted in America’s painful past.

“It was a model that was created to take former enslaved people, who many of them went into the hospitality industry, after slavery and put them in a position where they are still being controlled by the guest.”

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And as for the bottom line? It hasn’t taken a hit. 

“It seems like everyone is leaving happy,” Magidow said. “That’s really all we can hope for.”



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