Mike Doughty sure knows how to get a crowd on his side.
“I just want you to know that you are literally the most attractive people we have ever seen in our lives,” the Soul Coughing frontman said. “You freak me out — too (expletive) beautiful.”
Yet, he didn’t really need the sweet talk to gain the audience’s favor on Saturday night (Sept. 14) at The Fillmore. The thousand-plus fans that filled the legendary San Francisco venue to capacity for the first of two nights were clearly already in his corner and ready to enjoy their first Soul Coughing concert in at least a quarter of a century.
And the vocalist-guitarist and his formerly estranged Soul Coughing mates — keyboardist/sampler Mark Degli Antoni, bassist Sebastian Steinberg and drummer Yuval Gabay — certainly sounded great during this local stop on their long overdue reunion tour, powering through 21 numbers of jazzy hip alt-rock tunes in roughly 90 minutes.
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The whole thing felt so natural and, well, necessary that it left one wondering how it could’ve possibly taken the band members 25 years to get this show back on the road. Sure, the New York City outfit parted on acrimonious terms in 2000, after putting out three highly enjoyable records during a five-year span, but other acts have certainly buried the hatchet much quicker than this when there was a payday involved.
Still, the consensus mood at The Fillmore was “better late than never” as fans swayed to the music in the packed room and sang along to Doughty’s curiously appealing vocal work, which mixes goofy Beat poetry, rap, one-liners, scatting, deadpan delivery, repetition for the sake of repetition, pure nonsense and rare insight.
Granted, that latter doesn’t always factor into the equation — as Doughty illustrated, first in English, as he sang “Bus to Beelzebub.”
“Get on to the bus that’s gonna take you back to Beelzebub,” he sang. “Get on to the bus that’s gonna make you stop going rub-a-dub.”
And it didn’t sound any more insightful when he mixed in a little French — “Voulez-vous the bus,” he sang — even though, we know, that usually does the trick.
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The Soul Coughing songbook is littered with those type of oddities — this is probably a good place to mention that that same song ends with Doughty just repeating “Yellow No. 5” (yes, as in the controversial food dye) over and over again. Yet, he gets away with those lines — in part, due to that great deadpan delivery, but, probably more so, because he often wears cool Beat poetry/jazz cafe hats.
Soul Coughing performs at The Fillmore in San Francisco on Sept. 14, 2024 (Jim Harrington, Bay Area News Group).
Taking the stage right around 8:30 p.m., the band kicked off its first Bay Area show of the 21st century with a fine version of “Is Chicago, Is Not Chicago.” It was the first of 10 tracks that hailed from “Ruby Vroom,” the group’s 1994 full-length studio debut that turns 30 later this month.
Continuing into “Down to This” (another “Ruby Vroom” offering), Doughty sold his lyrics almost entirely with pure rhythm and cadence, dropping words like notes plucked from Steinberg’s upright bass. Things got even groovier as the troupe ventured into “Irresistible Bliss” — the 1996 sophomore outing that lives up to its title and stands as the band’s best album — for “Collapse,” which proved to be a fine showcase for Gabay’s towering mix of power and technique on the kit.
Even the second (and third) tier Soul Coughing material — “White Girl,” “Sugar Free Jazz,” etc. — was well worth hearing on this night, since the band was operating in such a zone and, well, it just felt so good to be hearing Soul Coughing back in the live arena.
Doughty can be quite chatty in his solo shows, which might have something to do with the fact that there is a lot of space to fill when it’s just you and a guitar up there on the stage, but he was pretty quiet, for the most part, between songs.
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He also seemed to downplay the whole front man vibe, instead just coasting through the gig in low gear and showing relatively little energy. I kept wanting him to cut loose, and take the whole thing to a higher level, but he never did — even during what should have been a barnburner of a encore with the Soul Coughing anthem “Super Bon Bon.”
Yet, there were so many highlights — including “Casiotone Nation,” “St. Louise Is Listening” and the main-set-ending “Screenwriter’s Blues” — that it would be wrong to categorize this show as anything but a success, as Soul Coughing rose from its long slumber to once again delight Bay Area fans.
Here’s hoping this is a reunion with legs.
Setlist
1. “Is Chicago, Is Not Chicago” 2. “Down to This” 3. “Collapse” 4. “White Girl” 5. “Sugar Free Jazz” 6. “The Idiot Kings” 7. “Blue Eyed Devil” 8. “Disseminated” 9. “Rolling” 10. “Lazybones” 11. “Misinformed” 12. “Bus to Beelzebub” 13. “Casiotone Nation” 14. “St. Louise Is Listening” 15. “True Dreams of Wichita” 16. “Mr. Bitterness” 17. “I Miss the Girl” 18. “Moon Sammy” 19. “Screenwriter’s Blues”
San Francisco isn’t letting the rain that’s in the forecast damper residents’ moods.
Here are some of the top events to check out this week in The City.
Daniel Grace at Book Passage (Monday)
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The London-born author will stop by Book Passage’s Ferry Building outpost for a reading and signing for his dark literary thriller “In the Wake of Golgotha.” The book reimagines Judas Iscariot and Pontius Pilate in modern-day New York’s crime scene. Grace is also a vintner, and guests will be able to taste one of his red wines, which was made at his vineyard in Italy.
Goran Bregovic and his Wedding and Funeral Orchestra (Monday)
The Bosnian musician is coming to Davies Symphony Hall, where he will be joined by his backing ensemble. The group performs Balkan music with brass players, string instruments and vocals.
Out of This World Showcase (Monday)
Comedian Tony Sparks will take over the Orbit Room with help from a rotating cast of fellow Bay Area talents. Located at 1900 Market Street, the watering hole serves pizzas with draft beers, cocktails, wines and other spirits.
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San Francisco’s Next Congress Member? The Candidates Debate (Tuesday)
Supervisor Connie Chan, state Sen. Scott Wiener and progressive activist Saikat Chakrabarti — three candidates vying for San Francisco’s congressional seat — are coming to Sydney Goldstein Theater for a debate hosted by City Arts and Lectures, Commonwealth Club World Affairs of California, Manny’s and KQED. The debate will be moderated by KQED’S Scott Shafer and Sydney Johnson. The candidates will discuss topics including climate policy, immigration and housing and affordability, according to organizers.
State Sen. Scott Wiener, center, progressive-activist Saikat Chakrabarti and Supervisor Connie Chan are among the candidates vying for the congressional seat representing San Francisco.
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Ali Wunderman/Special to The Examiner
Tickets for the event, which is being co-presented by City Arts and Lecture, are available online. They range in price from $18 to $36. The debate starts at 7:30 p.m.
An evening with Nathan Bickert and Levi Gillis (Tuesday)
Specs’ Twelve Adler Museum Cafe will host Nathan Bickert, a pianist who plays jazz and soul music, and Levi Gillis, a saxophonist who performs contemporary, classical and folk music.
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The show runs from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and will take place at 12 William Saroyan Place.
Portrait painting (Wednesday)
Ikea will bring participants down to Market Street for an all-ages workshop, where attendees will learn how to paint by creating their own portraits. Materials will be provided, and children must be accompanied by guardians.
Felt collage art workshop (Wednesday)
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts is staging a drop-in workshop at which participants will use felt to explore color, shapes and imagery and make a collage. Materials will be provided, and attendees can take their creations home. Organizers said this edition is inspired by “gather tender night,” Diedrick Brackens’ solo exhibition on view through Aug. 23.
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Yerba Buena Center for the Arts provides participants with materials for its drop-in workshops.
Courtesy Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
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Live Music: France, Pateka, Agnes Martian (Wednesday)
Employees at the 4 Star Theater are bringing an evening of musical performances to the neighborhood. The lineup features the band France, the four-piece experimental-rock group Pateka, and Agnes Martian, an experimental duo.
Artist reception (Thursday)
Caldwell Snyder Gallery will present a solo exhibition for Napa Valley artist Matt Rogers, who specializes in landscapes and floral paintings. An Oakland native, Rogers trained at the San Francisco Art Institute.
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Thirteen competitors will perform for a chance to headline the Mission parade and festival
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The reception runs from 5 to 7 p.m., with Rogers’ exhibition on view through April 30. The gallery is located at 341 Sutter St.
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Downtown First Thursday (Thursday)
Second Street from Market to Howard streets will once again come alive with a free all-ages block party. This month’s edition celebrates Earth Month. Guests will be able to make reusable art at pop-up stations and shop local businesses, and booths set up by the California Academy of Sciences and the Museum of the African Diaspora will also be present. The former will have games and free giveaways, and the latter will host performances by dancer Natalya Janay Schoaf and DJ Kream. DJ Reggie Watts is this month’s headliner, with his set taking place from 7:45 to 9 p.m.
San Francisco Public Library’s main branch will host a traveling exhibition that highlights wood engravings made by artists from six different countries. Sixty items are on display and over 140 works were submitted, according to organizers.
The opening reception runs from 6 to 7:45 p.m. and will take place at 100 Larkin St.
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After Dark: Immersed in Verse (Thursday)
At this Exploratorium after-hours event, guests ages 18 and up will be able to listen to readings by local poets and learn how to craft their own verses as part of a freestyle workshop. Other activities invite participants to explore the connection between language and physical movement, as well as a lounge where patrons can write and converse with each other.
Exploratorium patrons will be able to participate in activities such as an exercise in which people explore the connections between language and phyiscal movement.
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Courtesy Ida Tietgen Hoeyrup
An evening with Anthony McGill and Gloria Chien (Friday)
Clarinetist McGill will be joined by pianist Chien for a performance at Herbst Theatre. The duo will perform pieces by composers Claude Debussy, Camille Saint-Saens, Andre Messager, Robert Schumann and Johannes Brahms.
Dirty Pop! First Fridays (Friday)
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Bamboo Hut, a North Beach tiki bar, will host an evening where patrons can dance to pop music hits from the 1990s, 2000s and 2020s. DJs will spin tracks by musical acts such as Rihanna, Paramore, Nsync and Britney Spears.
‘16 x 20’ opening reception (Saturday)
Harman Projects, a contemporary art gallery located at 1275 Minnesota St., will host over 30 artists for an exhibition where all entries have been made on 16-inch-by-20-inch surfaces. The exhibition will be on view through April 25, and the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
The opening reception runs from 5 to 7 p.m.
Launderland Circus (Saturday-Sunday)
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The Children’s Creativity Museum will host the touring Launderland Circus, which will present an all-ages show in which a magical laundromat stands up to a greedy boss. Guests will bear witness to aerialists, giant puppets, jugglers and other talents.
Easter Mountain Lake Park 5K (Sunday)
Dolphin South End Runners, The City’s oldest running club, will host 5K and kids races at the west end of the park, near the intersection of 11th Avenue and Lake Street. Adult runners will participate in the first race at 9 a.m., followed by a race for children ages 12 and under that will be a half-mile in length.
Bring Your Own Big Wheel (Sunday)
Residents will flock to Vermont Street in Potrero Hill to watch participants ride down the crooked road on their big-wheel bikes of choice. Children will ride from 2 to 3 p.m., followed by adults riding the course from 3 to 5 p.m. Participants are asked to wear helmets, gloves and pads for their knees and elbows.
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The annual Bring Your Own Big Wheel event takes place on Vermont Street in Potrero Hill.
As one of the most expensive tourist destinations in the U.S., according to a GoBankingRates study, San Francisco, California, turns “affordable” into a relative term. While you might be able to nab a roadside hotel for under $50 in the middle of nowhere, San Francisco hotels are considerably more expensive.
I’m from the Bay Area and often travel to San Francisco for work. I usually stay outside the touristy neighborhoods — I prefer the area near San Francisco International Airport (SFO) — because I drive my own car. The following suggestions are based on guest feedback from Reddit, Tripadvisor, Google Reviews, and Booking.com, supplemented by my knowledge of different parts of the city. These aren’t the absolute cheapest places in San Francisco, but accommodations I’d feel comfortable recommending to visiting friends or family on a budget.
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Although rates vary significantly based on demand, location, and a myriad of other factors, most relatively comfortable, affordable stays start from $150 per night for a private room, including taxes and fees. However, most hotels initially display rates online without taxes and fees. These hidden costs can easily bump up displayed room rates by $30 to $50, so make sure the final price includes everything, such as the “guest amenities fee” in some hotels. To keep the price somewhat low, you’ll likely need to sacrifice something, be that location, cleanliness, ambiance, amenities, space, or privacy. I’ve included estimated rates for the cheapest room at each accommodation (including fees and taxes), but you should take these numbers as rough guidance.
Chancellor Hotel on Union Square
Frequently mentioned among the top affordable hotels in San Francisco on Tripadvisor forums, Reddit, and area-specific Facebook groups, the Chancellor Hotel on Union Square makes guests feel at home in the heart of the city. Among the tallest buildings in San Francisco in its heyday, this 3-star stay dates back to 1914 and offers a taste of the past at an accessible price point.
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Featuring over 130 rooms, most of which fit two adults max, this family-run hotel earns 4.5 stars on Tripadvisor, in part due to small touches. “I loved the free homemade cookies, fresh apples, and high-end coffee in the cozy lobby,” enthused a guest on Google Reviews. “They truly went above and beyond and made me feel like an old friend.” The location is also a draw for visitors. Union Square sits one block over, and the Powell Street Cable Car passes directly in front of the hotel.
Those who didn’t enjoy their stay usually found issues with the small room sizes, lack of air conditioning, or staying in a loud room. For reference, the only time I’ve ever used air conditioning in San Francisco is during an unusually hot stretch in California’s “Indian Summer,” usually a few days in September or October. However, the price point is reason enough to sacrifice a few comforts. Expect room rates from $130 for a queen bed with a private bathroom, a bathtub with a bright yellow rubber duck (yes, you can take the duck home), and a mini-fridge.
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Handlery Union Square Hotel
To secure a hotel with a heated pool, sauna, and gym in Union Square, you usually have to pay through the nose, but the 3-star Handlery Union Square Hotel is an exception. Cocooned in a courtyard, the swimming pool offers sun loungers and a place to relax after dark. The small gym features just enough equipment to maintain your fitness routine—treadmills, ellipticals, and free weights —while the sauna is private and must be reserved in advance.
Built in 1908, the historic rooms (the most affordable option) feature Victorian architecture, as well as modern amenities like a mini-fridge, coffee maker, and flat-screen TV. A block from Union Square, the location is incredibly walkable and near Chinatown, shopping centers like Macy’s, and many restaurants. In the historic wing, guests report the problems you’d expect from an old building. For instance, some guests found the soundproofing insufficient, or stayed in rooms that felt dated rather than vintage.
However, for the price, most guests feel like they’re getting their money’s worth. “It was great, especially for the very reasonable price I paid. Very classy reception, and clean on the parking garage side too – felt very safe,” per a guest via Google Reviews. Rates hover between $150 and $250 for the most affordable rooms. However, the hotel offers discounts for guests attending events like a Giants’ game at Oracle Park or a concert at Civic Auditorium. There’s also a 20% discount for California residents.
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HI San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel
Showcasing views of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge, HI San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel is a step above your average backpacker experience. While the hostel offers traditional dorms, ranging in size from four to 20 beds, guests can also book private rooms with views across the bay. “I got the private room and if you stood on the far side of it you could see part of the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s one of the best views you’ll get for this price in the entire city,” shared a traveler on Google Reviews.
Occupying a cypress-covered hill in Fort Mason Park, the location is one-of-a-kind. It’s one of the only places in the city where you can stay in an urban national park; although campers can pitch a tent at Angel Island State Park in San Francisco Bay. Here, visitors can stroll along paths or sunbathe in the grass before exploring the city on foot or with public transportation. Lombard Street, the city’s famous winding road, is only a 20-minute walk away, and you can reach Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 in 15 minutes. The hostel offers weekly free events, such as the Mission Walking Tour on Wednesdays or the Yoga at Grace Cathedral on Saturdays. Check the schedule here.
Dorm beds start from $36, while private rooms with shared bathrooms go for $110 and up. Guests use the common areas to work remotely or meet other travelers, while the hostel also offers laundry facilities and a kitchen.
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Golden Gate Hotel, San Francisco
Situated on the border of the Nob Hill and Union Square neighborhoods, the Golden Gate Hotel, San Francisco, maintains its old-world charm without falling into disrepair. It’s just around the corner from the California Street cable car and a 10-minute walk to the Cable Car Museum. A favorite among visitors on travel communities like San Francisco Travel Tips, this 4-story bed and breakfast was built in 1913, earning a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. Although the facade displays the Edwardian architecture typical of San Francisco, the interior reminds guests of compact flats in France or Italy.
With only 23 rooms, each one slightly different from the next, the hotel earns a 4.6-star rating on Tripadvisor. Afternoon tea and breakfast are complimentary, and guests appreciate the homey feel and resident cat, Skittles. “You could stay in the St. Francis for 3 times the price but you probably would NOT feel the sincere welcome of the decades-long established Golden Gate Hotel,” praised a guest on Tripadvisor. “This very clean, and gently cared for ‘nest’ in a wonderful location will soothe your frazzled senses when coming back from the tiring excitement of touristy jaunts.”
Small rooms with a shared bathroom start from around $110, and come with Wi-Fi, a TV, bathrobes, and toiletries. Rooms with a private bathroom (plus an antique claw-foot tub) offer slightly more space and start from around $150 per night.
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Marina Motel
Situated in the Marina District, just off Highway 101, the 3-star Marina Motel is a top choice among families visiting San Francisco. Many of the rooms come with kitchens and multiple bed configurations, which makes traveling with children easier. In addition, the room rate includes free parking, a rarity in San Francisco.
Dating back to 1939, the hotel originally provided overnight accommodation (with parking) for people driving over the brand new Golden Gate Bridge. Still run by the founder’s grandchildren, the motel offers rooms perched over small garages, nestled in a courtyard with bougainvillea vines and window boxes filled with flowers. Every room comes with a microwave, coffee maker, and mini-fridge, but the kitchen accommodations also have a gas oven and stove top, a freezer, and kitchenware. “My fiance and I took our teenage daughter and her friend to San Francisco as a spring break getaway. This hotel gave the girls their own room and their own beds, while my fiancé and I got a nice quiet space to ourselves! The price was unbeatable for having 2 rooms,” praised a visitor on Google Reviews, where the motel earns 4.4 stars.
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From the motel, guests can easily reach San Francisco’s most iconic sites, but having a car is useful. However, the Palace of Fine Arts is a 10-minute walk away, and the motel serves as a starting point for exploring the nature trails at the Presidio. Rooms start around $140 per night with discounts for longer stays.
Methodology
Hryshchyshen Serhii/Shutterstock
To find the best affordable stays in San Francisco, I used my experience visiting as a Bay Area local and living in the city short-term as a jumping-off point. I scoured Facebook groups like San Francisco Travel Tips, and Reddit threads like r/AskSF and r/TravelHacks for affordable hotels I hadn’t heard of or potential hidden gems.
Next, I dug through thousands of guest reviews on Tripadvisor, Google Reviews, and Booking.com, searching for hotels with convenient locations, clean rooms, helpful staff, amenities, and, of course, low prices. Then, I double-checked the prices using the hotel’s official website. I only included hotels where guests felt safe, and prioritized walkable locations. Finally, all the hotels have at least a 4.0 rating on Google Reviews or Tripadvisor. When booking your stay, consider using travel guru Rick Steves’ expert tip to find the most affordable hotels online.
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“Imagine this, right? There’s a fork in the road where down one road is like — how would I explain this,” Ranjit Brar muses for a moment. “Dead trees. You see rocks, or a road that’s potholes. It’s just horrible.”
The other road in the scenario looks beautiful, Brar says, but seemed “so far-fetched” that for years, he didn’t choose it.
Instead, he found himself selling drugs, stealing cars, committing identity theft, anything — just to buy more heroin or pay for a place to sleep at night. He’d catch charges, post bail, skip town to the next county.
“It’s easier to stay in something that feels more secure, even though it’s a miserable life,” Brar says. Today, he sits at a conference table, with his work ID and key fob hanging off a lanyard around his neck, his goatee neatly trimmed. A tattoo on his throat peeps over the top of his T-shirt.
One fork in the road came 12 years ago, when Brar found himself 32 years old and addicted to painkillers after a shooting at his home in Florida left him severely injured. He told a Daytona Beach news outlet in an interview at the time about his pain and the various medications he was taking to ease it.
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Eventually, his doctors cut him off the pills, and he found his way to heroin. Before he knew it, his family was in shambles.
Feeling “empty inside,” Brar left behind his children and relationship and hit the road back to the Bay Area. “San Francisco, it’s the best place if you want to change your life around,” Brar says. “And it’s the worst place if you want to destroy your life.”
Brar had spent his early years here, and his adoptive father still lived in the area.
“I came back to California … to reconcile [with] my father, try to see if I could salvage the relationship,” Brar says. “Any connection to family at this point, that’s what I wanted.”
When that family connection fell through, Brar continued to find comfort in drugs. As he bounced around the Bay Area, committing petty crime, all roads seemed to lead back to San Francisco, his home base and the city where he was born.
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“I’d come here, Tenderloins. I knew how to survive in the streets, how to sell drugs, the homies are here,” Brar says. “For about ten years, I struggled with trying to get clean. And I couldn’t do it on myself.”
Brar’s “rock-bottom,” he says, was the day he was arrested and realized he had no one to reach out to.
The loneliness was jarring. It reminded him of trying to connect with his father, or being shipped off to boarding school in India as a child — an experience he has now learned to see differently.
“Even though it was a lonely time in my life, everything is something to learn from,” he says. He learned Hindi and Punjabi, and got to travel and see the Himalayas with his grandmother.
In a similar way, Brar today finds a different kind of solace in the Tenderloin.
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He attended rehab in custody and after he was released, and began volunteering with St. Anthony’s. Brar now works there as a full time volunteer coordinator. He has an apartment nearby and another he shares with his girlfriend.
As we walk out the door, we run into one of his best friends, with whom he does everything from attending Narcotics Anonymous meetings to going on vacation together. He clarifies that this person is “not a homie, a friend.”
Brar connects with other people in the throes of addiction and lets them call him if they need support.
And beyond the neighborhood, his children are grown up and successful, one surfing in Australia, another working as an electrician in Florida, and a third attending college in New York.
Brar, though, still finds his comfort in San Francisco. Reflecting, he says that rehabilitating in the same place where he used drugs has only made his recovery stronger. “It keeps me grounded.”