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Highly Opinionated: An Eater Editor’s Favorite Veggie Burgers in San Francisco

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Highly Opinionated: An Eater Editor’s Favorite Veggie Burgers in San Francisco


In San Francisco, there are so many excellent veggie burgers that there’s bound to be a great purging of frozen Boca pucks any day now. Classics in the city — true institutions like Bourdain’s favorite Sam’s, expanding newbies like the Hamburger Project, and labor-inducing mystics like the sandwich at Spruce — generally don’t care to cater to non-carnivores. But the ones that have alternatives make a compelling case for leafy cheeseburgers.

Many of the top vegan sandwiches in the Bay Area are outside the 48 hills. Toriano Gordon’s Vegan Mob is a powerhouse of combo plates, mac and cheese, and burgers from Vallejo to San Bruno. Oakland’s newcomer Hyphy Burger is a head-turner, the black bean patty blanketed in bright yellow cheese not to be forgotten. Let’s not even get into my raw, primal love of soon-to-be food truck Malibu’s. I’d weep.

Roam Burger’s vegan burger is a saucy delight.
Paolo Bicchieri

Don’t get it twisted: There’s a rubric. The burger has to be well-composed like any meaty bedfellow. That means crisp lettuce, a splashy and firm tomato, plus whatever other topping may be applicable, done to the most outstanding quality. The patty, the main character, can’t be just an Impossible patty slid in, presto chango; if not adjusted for flavor, it can be bit metallic. Nor can the patty be crumbly, mealy, or cloying. A smart burger-aiolo makes their own handiwork, with dialed-in black beans (or other malleable legume) and veg, though more than a handful of these selects make the Impossible patty work.

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Why you should trust me: Much to the chagrin of some readers, not every single one of my meals is an opulent Mughal Empire-esque spread of fine food. In fact, I’ve eaten quite simply since 2016 — and strictly vegan at home for almost 10 years, indulging in what I call “freeganism” once out and about. Unlike the dumpster diving version of that term, my version means that if a friend or family member makes me non-vegan food, I’ll dig in. Further, once going in-house at Eater, I began eating whole hog at restaurants, though my preference is still to err on the leafy side of life. I’m an old head on the plant-based burger front at this point — we’re familiar frenemies. Note that, while some of these burgers fit the definition of vegan, a few due include dairy and other non-vegan ingredients.

For the bougie bites: Roam

Few burgers in the Bay come standard with Umaro’s Berkeley-based seaweed bacon and Violife’s dairy-free cheddar. Marin County-raised Joshua Spiegelman’s upscale fast-food spot has one of the most impressive homemade patties in the scene. It’s comprised of quinoa, black beans, brown rice, and dates, amongst other things, making it a high scorer in my personal categories. At $15, it’s also not much more expensive than its competition. This restaurant’s veggie patty can be subbed into other sandwiches, too — a rarity. Roam Burgers (1923 Fillmore Street)

For the trend-chaser: Smish Smash

No one reading this needs a smash burger intro. For those looking to keep it crispy and thin, this recent Saluhall addition is a must. There’s a real meatiness to the smash burger that’s tough to oversell: The onions reduce atomically, the meat nearly dematerializing into all crispy edges, making for an oily, beefy delight that’s eaten as quickly as the magicians behind the grill can make it. Such unrefined joy can be made vegetarian with an Impossible patty for just $1 extra, and most of the burgers go for under $13. Keep it cheap and powerful with the Reggie Miller, a cheeseburger through and through for $11 total. Smish Smash (945 Market Street)

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For the late-night: Om Sabor

Chefs Dhanistha Rivera and Luis Flores’s restaurant tucked inside Hayes Valley’s Phonobar is famous for diners routinely yelping, “This is vegan!?” like paid extras in a margarine commercial. Same goes for its burger: a $10 medley of Impossible meat, roasted onions and peppers, salsa macha aioli, and pickled red onions on a pretzel bun. Sized appropriately, the Impossible is paired with enough flavor to keep that metallic edge at bay. Plus, the kitchen stays open until 10 p.m. For this level of quality, and in an area not known for nightlife, that’s pretty late! Om Sabor (370 Grove Street)

A sandwich on a gray background.

The Impossible Gruyere and onion burger at Gott’s.
Gott’s

• Aiso: The newest in the game is this all-vegan bar and restaurant that took over the longtime Lark location on 18th Street. Here, it’s the jerk slider, a tiny construction of Impossible patty, miso mayo, and pineapple slaw. Aiso, 4068 18th Street

• Gott’s: Gott’s is the new classic. I recommend going with the veggie patty over the Impossible, as you get less of that cloyingness that Impossible can impart, and it’s a cost-free swap. Try it on the Gruyere and caramelized onion burger if you know what’s good for ya. Gott’s Roadside, 1 Ferry Building #6

• Greens: It doesn’t get much more classic than one of the city’s oldest, finest riffs. This one comes in at $22 and is the most expensive of my long-list picks. That said, the lentil mushroom patty and avocado crema also make it one of the most iconic in the city. Greens, 2 Marina Boulevard

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• Native Burger: This unfussy Geary Boulevard burger spot offers a straight-up Impossible patty with crisp lettuce and juicy tomato. To be clear, this is a straight-hamburger — no cheese in sight. Native Burger, 3420 Geary Boulevard

• Rad Radish: There are rotating specials at this relative newcomer Hayes Valley restaurant from the Back of House group. Try the Le Rad Royale Burger for $16 — crowned with vegan provolone — while you can. Rad Radish, 301 Hayes Street

• Whiz Burger: Like Beep’s on Ocean Avenue, Whiz is one of those San Francisco burger spots that’s held on through the many tech makeovers. The Impossible burger here goes for a cool $9.30, which is basically absurd. Whiz Burgers Drive-In, 700 South Van Ness Avenue

A burger on a tray.

A towering triumph of a burger awaits diners at Hayes Valley’s Om Sabor.
Om Sabor





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San Francisco, CA

Giants Head Home to San Francisco After Shutout Loss

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Giants Head Home to San Francisco After Shutout Loss


After Sunday’s 3-0 loss to the Washington Nationals, the San Francisco Giants headed back to the West Coast. They’re going back to the Bay Area, too.

The Giants have a date with the Los Angeles Dodgers for a three-game series at Oracle Park starting Tuesday night.

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So, San Francisco probably wanted to get out of Washington, D.C., with a win. That didn’t happen at Nationals Park on Sunday afternoon.

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Nationals reliever Andrew Alvarez, the third pitcher used by the team on Sunday, picked up the victory with 4 1/3 innings of work. Giants starter Robbie Ray absorbed the loss, falling to 2-3 this season.

Ray worked six innings, giving up seven hits, three runs (all earned), walking one, and striking out seven Nationals. If the Giants’ offense had found a way to tack on some runs, then Ray’s outing wouldn’t have looked so bad.

The Giants’ bats, though, had eight hits. The big number for Giants manager Tony Vitello to look at in the box score after this one was, well, pretty big. San Francisco left 10 runners on base on Sunday, going 0-for-11 with runners in scoring position. This indicates that San Francisco had plenty of opportunities to score some runs.

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They just didn’t get the job done.

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Let’s go to the bottom of the fifth with the Giants and Nationals in a scoreless tie. With nobody out, the Nationals’ Keibert Ruiz connected for his third double this season. Nasim Nuñez scored to put Washington up 1-0.

With one out, Curtis Mead sent a Ray pitch over the left-field wall, a two-run blast that gave the Nationals a 3-0 lead.

San Francisco had a scoring threat in the top of the eighth inning. With runners at first and second base and nobody out, Casey Schmitt grounded into a double play. Matt Chapman, who was on second base, went to third. But the Giants were unable to bring him home.

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Rafael Devers and Drew Gilbert went 2-for-4 at the plate for the Giants, producing half of the Giants’ hits.

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The Giants fall to 9-13 this season, sitting in fourth place in the National League West Division. The Nationals’ record goes to 10-12, good enough for third place in the National League East Division.

All eyes now turn toward Oracle on Tuesday night. It’ll be a chance for two longtime rivals to renew their rivalry.

Baseball fans know that the Giants-Dodgers matchups usually are must-see TV.

That’s probably going to be the case once again as Giants fans watch their team battle the Dodgers. Those lucky to have tickets to the three-game series at Oracle Park will show up in Giants colors, hoping to see Los Angeles head back to Southern California with either a series loss or a Giants’ sweep.

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Buckle up, Giants fans. It’s about to get rowdy at Oracle Park.

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San Francisco, CA

Why do gray whales keep dying in San Francisco’s waters?

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Why do gray whales keep dying in San Francisco’s waters?


The 4,140-sq-km bay is the largest estuary on the west coast of the US. Before 2018, this species of whales wasn’t known to stop seasonally or consistently in the bay, bypassing it on their migration route down to Baja California and back up the Arctic, said Josephine Slaathaug, who led a recent study on gray whale mortality in the bay.



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San Francisco, CA

Eastbound I-80 closure in San Francisco snarls traffic, slows business

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Eastbound I-80 closure in San Francisco snarls traffic, slows business


One of San Francisco’s busiest freeways remained shut down Saturday, creating major traffic delays and dampening business for some local restaurants and shops.

All eastbound lanes of Interstate 80 just before the Bay Bridge are closed as crews work around the clock to rehabilitate the roadway. The 55-hour shutdown, which began on Friday night, is scheduled to last until Monday morning in time for the commute.

The closure has forced drivers onto detour routes, leading to heavy congestion for those trying to reach the East Bay, including Oakland and Berkeley. 

The impact is being felt beyond the roadways.

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At MoMo’s, a restaurant across from Oracle Park, staff found business noticeably slower.

“A little bit more mellow than usual. We usually see a little bit more foot traffic, a little bit more people on Saturdays,” said Daniel Bermudez, executive chef at MoMo’s.

Bermudez believes the freeway closure may be discouraging visitors from coming into the city this weekend, despite favorable weather.

“The weather is beautiful today. It’s nice and sunny. So we have plenty of tables outside,” he said.

With the San Francisco Giants playing an away game, the restaurant had hoped fans would still gather to watch, but turnout during game time remained light.

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“This is kind of like our off-season Saturday. A lot slower than our baseball weekend,” said Casandra Alarcon, general manager at MoMo’s.

Other small businesses in the Mission Bay and South of Market neighborhoods reported similar trends, saying most of their customers are regulars who live nearby rather than visitors.

“A little bit slower for sure. Before, we had tourists come and walk to the baseball park,” said Ajaree Safron, manager at Brickhouse Cafe & Bar.

Caltrans has shut down eastbound lanes between 17th and 4th streets to repave the 71-year-old roadway. The goal is to extend the life of the Bayshore Freeway by another decade.

City and transportation officials said the timing of the closure was intentional, noting fewer major events scheduled in San Francisco this weekend, aside from the Cherry Blossom Festival.

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Westbound lanes remain open, and officials said traffic heading into San Francisco from the East Bay has not been significantly affected.

“Getting into the city, it wasn’t too bad.  Regular [traffic], what we expect on a Saturday morning,” said visitor Andrea Inouye.

While the closure has posed challenges for businesses, some workers said they are taking it in stride.

“Hopefully, it’s not for too long and we get past it, and get back to our normal routine,” Bermudez said.

Despite early concerns about widespread gridlock, transportation officials said the region has avoided the worst-case scenario. Traffic remains heavy in areas near detours, but the anticipated “carmageddon” has not materialized, in part because many drivers chose to avoid the area or take public transit.

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