San Francisco, CA
Downtown San Francisco is back: Here's how to spend a perfect Saturday.
Downtown San Francisco is back, baby.
It doesn’t look exactly like it did pre-pandemic but no matter: A slew of recent art, food, and drinks arrivals have once again made it fun to spend the whole day exploring the neighborhood.
Here’s how to spend the perfect Saturday in downtown SF right now.
11:30am: Breakfast at Grand Opening
(Courtesy of @grandopening___)
Start the morning off right, with a pastry from Chinatown bakery pop-up Grand Opening. You’ll find a weekly assortment of Asian-influenced sweets like black sesame eclairs, passion fruit caramel cashew cookies, and Parisian egg tarts crafted by the twice-nominated James Beard Outstanding Pastry Chef finalist Melissa Chou.
// Bake sales are Saturday from 11am to 2pm and Sunday from 10am to 2pm; 28 Waverly Place @ Mister Jiu’s (Chinatown), grandopeningbakery.com
Noon: A Bit of Magic at Madame Theodore’s Floral Academy for Wayward Travelers
(Courtesy of Floral Academy for Wayward Travelers/Beacon Grand)
Enter a whimsical world of botanical beauty at Madame Theodore’s Floral Academy for Wayward Travelers. The public art installation, a partnership between the iconic Beacon Grand hotel and artists Nicole Whitten and Carina Garciga Meyers, walks the boundary between reality and imagination, filling a once vacant storefront on Powell Street with a dizzying array of plants, flowers, and surprises. Take a spin through the “shop” and reinvigorate your sense of discovery and wonder.
// Free to enter; 450 Powell St. (Union Square)
1pm: Lunch at Miller & Lux Provisions
(Courtesy of @eatwith_tracy)
Chef Tyler Florence’s pair of Union Square cafes are the best spot for lunch with a generous side of people watching (especially during the holiday season when the ice rink is rolled out). If you’ve got an appetite, it’s the Rotisserie you want, which features Mary’s spit-roasted organic chicken, as well as tasty salads, sides, and brunchy eats like black truffle potato salad and smoked salmon benedicts (plus beer and wine). If you’re still full from Grand Opening, grab a seat at the Patisserie instead where you can sip Postscript coffee or a chai latte and attempt to resist the soft serve ice cream croissant sandwich.
// Miller & Lux Provisions Rotisserie is ope from 11:30am to 5pm daily at 225 Stockton St. The Patisserie is open from 7:30am to 5pm daily at 350 Powell St. (Union Square), millerandluxrestaurant.com
3pm: Culture at Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA) SF
(Courtesy of ICA SF)
This fall, San Francisco’s Institute of Contemporary Art got a serious upgrade, moving from its small Dogpatch gallery to a cavernous space in the Financial District. The nimble museum now has ample space to show off cutting-edge local and international artists whose work is a response to the current political and social moment. The inaugural show includes a group exhibition that turns everyday materials into artistic statements, the bejeweled rotting fruit of Kathleen Ryan, and the ceramic reliefs of Maryam Yousif—and entrance to the museum is always free.
// Open Wednesday through Sunday; 345 Montgomery St. (FiDi), icasf.org
5pm: A Forested Happy Hour at Heartwood + Transamerica
(Courtesy of @gaelen)
Transition from day to night with a highball or boozy seasonal slushie at Heartwood. The redwood forest–inspired bar in a century-old brick-and-timber building hails from the team behind Third Rail, The Treasury, and The Beehive. Cocktails brim with the creativity of the natural world, ranging from the spice-forward Pulp Fiction (house-spiced rum, mango pulp, cinnamon, makrut lime) to the herbaceous Apple Propaganda (gin, green apple, juniper, pisco, bay leaf, elderflower tonic). Stick with the forest theme with a slight detour through the Transamerica Redwood Park (600 Montgomery St.) on the way to dinner. The refreshed oasis, which is currently decked out with the fantastical faunal sculptures of French duo Les Lalanne, will change up its art twice a year.
// Heartwood is open Monday through Saturday; 531 Commercial St. (FiDi), heartwoodsf.com.
6:30pm: Dinner at Four Kings
(Courtesy of @fourkings__)
Arguably SF’s hottest restaurant of the year—and, according to Esquire, the hottest new restaurant in the entire country—Four Kings is an intimate Hong Kong–style resto-bar with serious main character energy. Chefs Franky Ho and Michael Long whip up the dishes that fortified them through childhood, from black pepper steak and fried squab to Chinese sausage and bacon claypot rice and salted egg squash croquettes, to the soundtrack of ‘90s Cantopop. The wee space and undeniable charisma of Four Kings makes advance reservations an absolute must.
// Four Kings is open Thur to Mon from 6pm to 11pm; 710 Commercial St. (Chinatown), itsfourkings.com
8:30pm: Nightcaps at Verjus
(Will Brinkerhoff)
End your perfect day downtown with a visit to Verjus, the celebrated wine bar from the team behind Quince and Cotogna that reopened with a bang last month after several quiet years. Channeling French bistro style, the revamped space is as lively as ever with a new DJ booth, vinyl collection, and ephemeral dance floor that pops up whenever the mood strikes.
// Verjus is open Tuesday through Saturday; 550 Washington St. (Jackson Square), verjuscave.com
San Francisco, CA
DoJ closes San Francisco immigration court in move critics say worsens case backlog
The Department of Justice shuttered a major San Francisco immigration court last week, a decision attorneys say could exacerbate the Bay Area’s immigration case backlog.
Early in the year, news reports emerged of the closure of the courthouse on 100 Montgomery Street slated for January 2027. Over the last year, the Department of Justice had fired 20 of the court’s 22 judges (the Trump administration has been accused of culling certain immigration judges, in favor of those more amenable to its ongoing mass deportation agenda).
The justice department’s executive office for immigration review (EOIR) described the court’s closure as “cost effective” in a statement last week. A smaller court in San Francisco remains open, but the majority of court operations will move to an immigration court 35 miles (56km) away in the East Bay city of Concord.
The Concord court opened in 2024 amid a Biden-era push to trim the ballooning immigration case backlog. As of September 2025, nationwide there are 3.75m pending immigration cases, according to data from the EOIR. In San Francisco, there are 120,000, per the Transactional Records Access Clearinghouse (Trac), a research center at Syracuse University.
Some legal experts doubt the Concord court, where six judges were recently removed, has the capacity to inherit the closed San Francisco court’s caseload. A justice department spokesperson did not immediately reply to a request for comment.
“With so few judges at the Concord court, we’re going to see a lot of people waiting years and years and years to have their cases heard,” said Milli Atkinson, director of the San Francisco Bar Association’s immigrant legal defense program.
“These delays deeply affect people. They affect people’s ability to have resolution … to have an answer and closure, whether a positive one that they’d hoped for or a negative one,” said Shira Levine, a former judge at the San Francisco immigration court, who is now legal director for the Immigrant Institute of the Bay Area.
The passage of time could also weaken the presentation of a case.
At asylum hearings, people are “presenting a lot of oral testimony from themselves and from witnesses. Over years, testimonial memories can fade,” Levine said. “Even if you submit the written evidence, years later, someone may not be available to testify in support of that evidence.”
The San Francisco court’s closure coupled with the exodus of judges has sown “a lot of chaos”, Atkinson said. There are court dates being pushed back and others being pushed up as a result of recent changes.
Atkinson expects that there several individuals will fall through the cracks of the court system.
“A lot of migrants have unstable addresses or don’t receive their mail,” she said, also adding that notices in English may not be heeded by those who don’t speak or read it.
People could then be placed on Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE)’s radar if they miss their hearings, Atkinson said.
“If someone gets the wrong date, gets the wrong time, gets the wrong place, doesn’t file something exactly correct … the consequences are in some cases – where they really do have a serious fear of return – life-threatening.”
San Francisco, CA
California dominates top 10 priciest U.S. cities for homeowners — here’s what you need to earn
- California dominates US housing costs, with 9 of 10 priciest metros; San Jose leads at $11,690/month.
- San Francisco and Los Angeles also rank high, requiring annual incomes of $358,090 and $301,221 respectively.
- Despite a slight decline in income requirements since 2025, affordability remains a distant dream for many.
From Silicon Valley to San Diego, the Golden State boasts nine of the 10 most expensive metropolitan areas in the US for homeowners, a new report revealed.
San Jose landed in the top spot, followed by San Francisco at No. 2 and Los Angeles at No. 5.
An analysis from ConsumerAffairs examined monthly home payments across 200 of the nation’s largest metro areas to determine the income needed to afford a home in each location.
In San Jose, that monthly cost came out to a staggering $11,690 — making it by far the the most expensive US metro for homeowners for the second year in a row.
Buyers now need to earn an eye-popping $501,012 in annual income to afford a typical property.
That figure dwarfs the city’s actual median household income of $164,801, exceeding it by a massive 204%, according to the report. It also far surpasses the national median household income of $81,604.
With a median home price of more than $1.55 million, ownership in the Silicon Valley city remains out of reach for most residents.
Nearby San Francisco ranked the second most expensive, with monthly housing costs at $8,355 and buyers needing to earn $358,090 annually to afford a home there, the analysis found.
In Los Angeles, monthly costs averaged $7,029, with buyers needing to earn $301,221.
The 10 most expensive metro areas in the US and their average monthly costs:
- 1. San Jose: $11,690
- 2. San Francisco: $8,355
- 3. Santa Cruz: $354,973
- 4. Santa Maria: $305,535
- 5. Los Angeles: $301,221
- 6. San Diego: $293,618
- 7. San Luis Obispo: $280,591
- 8. Oxnard: $276,805
- 9. Salinas: $262,403
- 10. Honolulu, Hawaii: $255,280
The only metro outside California to crack the top 10 was Honolulu.
The divide across the country is stark.
The gap between the income needed to buy a home in San Jose compared to Huntington, West Virginia, the most affordable metro in the analysis, stood at a staggering $447,362.
Despite the sky-high costs, there is a slight silver lining: Income requirements in each of the top 10 cities in the ranking declined more than the average national drop of 3.2% since 2025.
Still, affordability remains a distant dream for many Americans.
The last time a typical US household could comfortably follow the 28% rule — spending no more than 28% of income on housing — was in 2015, when incomes exceeded required levels by just 0.4%.
Today, buyers need 48% more income than the median household earns nationwide.
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San Francisco, CA
Contributor: May we never grow inured to homelessness
Most Saturday mornings, I stroll half a mile downhill from my tiny apartment in a bosky part of San Francisco to a farmers market. My usual reverie of anticipation (about carrots with their tops attached, about the price of berries) was interrupted recently by the sight of three bodies.
That is, I thought of them as bodies; it was not evident whether they were alive or dead. All lay splayed on the sidewalk, one a couple blocks from my home, the other two, blocks apart, closer to the market, itself located in a neighborhood where need is evident. (Food stamps are often the tender for buying produce.) The bodies belonged to shabbily but fully dressed men — except one man, who was missing a shoe. Maybe the men are sleeping, I thought, or unconscious from drink or drugs. Or maybe they are dead. Nobody walking by — including me — slowed down to pay attention to them, beyond a glance.
For decades, encountering such a scene, I used to stop, then wait to see a leg twitch, a chest rise. I rarely do even that anymore. In high school, I had read with shock that poor people in India, people with no home, slept on the sidewalk, while others just walked by. How awful of those others, I remember thinking. How could they live with themselves? The reproach has come home. We’ve gotten used to homelessness — the homelessness of others.
I guessed the three men on that recent Saturday had no homes, but from many years interviewing a formerly homeless man who is now a civic leader in San Francisco, I learned not to rush to conclusions. Del Seymour, today known locally as the mayor of the Tenderloin, taught me that a man lying with his eyes closed on a sidewalk may have a home, but perhaps was interrupted by temptation or a medical situation on his way there. I also learned from Del, to my initial shock, that some homeless people work full-time jobs. I’ve learned a lot about homelessness, mostly from him, but also from my daily Google alert for the word in the news.
Because those alerts are so rarely encouraging, one seeming spark of good news recently stood out. In Los Angeles County, according to newly released statistics about 2024, the number of deaths among the homeless population decreased from 2023. Yay! I thought. The myriad programs are working! Whether naloxone intervention or tiny houses or new shelters or other efforts (free job training like Del initiated in San Francisco?) are to praise, I felt a surge of hope. Then I read more closely.
Deaths among unhoused individuals in L.A. County had fallen in 2024 not to 100 or so, as I naively hoped, but to 2,208. A trend in the right direction, yes. A cause for celebration, no.
Far too many people know firsthand the emotional and physical grind of homelessness. Virtually all other Californians know it secondhand and have probably asked themselves the same question: What is a (presumably well-meaning) housed person to do in response to the sight of an unhoused person, not to mention many unhoused people? I know of a nurse in San Francisco who screeches her car to a stop when she spots a person in bodily distress and administers CPR if appropriate. I admire her action, but doubt I could replicate it.
Granted, my own main and stubborn response, to spend nearly a decade writing a book about the subject in the hope it will have a helpful impact, is not a route available or attractive to many. And shorter term efforts, such as volunteering at local nonprofits, certainly have more immediate results. One common impulse, in which I take part, if insufficiently and awkwardly, is to give someone food or money, or call 911 when someone clearly needs help.
Yet any pedestrian, especially any female pedestrian, will attest that the impulse to help someone on the sidewalk becomes more challenging if that someone is awake, and male. Will an offering lead to a spit, a scream, a chase? Should we avoid eye contact and walk on? Not necessarily.
What I’ve learned from Del is to offer something that may mean more than a dollar or a sandwich: Say hello.
Acknowledge the person whose face is several feet below your own. This individual is part of a family, “somebody’s son, somebody’s auntie,” Del’s litany goes, and remains a human being. Remind yourself of that. More importantly, remind them. Del adds: Don’t stop if the person seems “nuts,” his enjoyed foray into politically incorrect phrasing. Otherwise, slow down for a few seconds, maybe longer. At some point, over time, and the same route, you might recognize one another and actually have a conversation. Meanwhile, keep it basic, but say something.
I obey. Often, just “Hi.”
Almost always comes an incalculably generous reward: a smile and a greeting returned. Humbled, I move on, again resolved not to let our unhoused neighbors feel invisible, nor to forget that homelessness is, among other adjectives, abnormal.
Alison Owings is the author of “Mayor of the Tenderloin: Del Seymour’s Journey From Living on the Streets to Fighting Homelessness in San Francisco.”
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