The Big Island of Hawaii is home to five volcanoes and offers a diverse landscape as well as some of the most unique experiences in the Islands. It also offers a challenge, because of its size, to anyone who’s planning a vacation there and looking to squeeze in as much enjoyment as possible on a short stay.
Anneke Marchese
Anneke Marchese, the owner of AM|FM Luxury + Adventure Travel in Bend, Ore., started her business nine years ago after her first visit to the Big Island. It was the first island she visited in Hawaii, but she has since been to all of the islands that one can visit. She holds a master specialist certificate and a Malama experience certificate from the Big Island of Hawaii.
Marchese was happy to share with Travel Weekly’s readers her knowledge of the island and how she tailors trips for clients.
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Q: For people who haven’t been to the Big Island, what would you say are the biggest differences between traveling there versus the other islands?
A: What I always explain to them first off is that the Big Island is not Oahu, where Pearl Harbor is. Let’s just make sure that we all know that this is truly the Big Island, the largest island in the chain. Also, it’s the youngest. I also say it’s the most kind of rugged and truly allows you to get active and connect with nature and still really have a lot of land to explore.
It’s really a dual island. There are 10 microclimates that you’re going to go through traversing the island, so it’s really best discovered in two parts. Some of your time will be spent on what locals call the Kona side, and some of your time will be on what locals call the Hilo side.
Photo Credit: Jenn Martins
Q: What do you consider a perfect Big Island itinerary?
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A: I’ll usually get people into Kona. We’ll do three, four or five nights in Waikoloa or Kona, possibly splitting it up. Some people will stay down near Captain Cook and Kealakekua Bay and then also up north, say like Mauna Kea [Resort] or Hapuna. I think that’s a really awesome itinerary if we can get people to split even that portion.
Then I encourage them to drive across the island. … If they can stay in Hilo for a few days, what we’ll do normally is have them leave Hilo in the morning on the last day, fly over to Honolulu to do a day at Pearl Harbor and head home at night.
Q: You mentioned splitting up the island. Is that also common to split up each side of the island?
A: If I can convince people to, yes; it’s really about timing. If people have a week, some people give me the time to do two nights down in the Keauhou area, the Captain Cook area, like three nights over in Waikoloa up north and then two nights in Hilo. I really think that’s the most well-rounded and gives you that diversity, because otherwise you’re really missing out.
Q: How often do clients ask you about the Big Island compared to other islands? Does it get a lot of demand?
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A: It’s still not as popular as the other islands. I do feel like I have a higher conversion rate with those who have been to the Islands before and are wanting to experience a new island or maybe haven’t been there and have heard good things about it.
Q: What are some of the top things for visitors to do on the Big Island?
A: If you’re going to be on the Island of Hawaii, you need to swim with manta rays; that shouldn’t be missed. Fair Wind and Seaquest are two operators I would recommend — though I prefer working with a naturalist at the Mauna Kea Resort, where you swim out to the manta rays without a boat. … If you’re scared to get into the water, sit at the Fairmont Orchid’s toes-in sand bar at dark and you’ll see them splashing in the lights.
I’ve also done the salt farm tour at Kona Sea Salt, which sounds so weird, but it’s great if you have to catch a flight and you’re just trying to do something and see something you haven’t seen before.
Morning coffee overlooking Kulaniapia Falls in Hilo. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA)/Heather Goodman
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I give clients a hiking guide, so I encourage them to go out and explore. Visiting the coffee farms, like Greenwell Farms, and of course getting some beach time [are also recommended].
Q: How many days should people plan to spend at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park?
A: I like two days. I mean, a full day if you can, like a full day from morning to literally sunset, like after dark. So at least one full day in the park.
If they have mobility issues, you could do two hours in the morning and maybe an hour or two at night, but I always encourage them to stop by and have a glass of wine at Volcano House and watch the glow happen. (As of publication, the volcano is not erupting and there is no glow.)
When I get people to experience Volcanoes National Park with a guide, I feel like it makes a lot of difference, especially since the Jaggar Museum is not available. (The volcano science museum was damaged during the Kilauea eruption in 2018; there are plans to reopen, but a date has not yet been announced.)
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Q: You have found guides for the national park?
A: Yeah, so usually Hawaii Forest & Trail has guides that work great. I love them.
Q: Do you try to find clients a place to stay near the park? Or do they drive back to Hilo?
A: It depends. If some people need to have a hotel, need to have room service, need to do those things, then of course they’re going back to the Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo. If they’re a little bit more rugged, there’s some pretty inns I recommend right there.
Q: Is there anything else you’d like to share with advisors and their clients?
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A: Travel mindfully, please don’t follow Instagram. There are some places that are super sacred that should stay sacred. … I make every traveler that travels to the Islands, but specifically the Big Island, do the Pono Pledge. I feel like that’s super important.
If a long, cleansing exhale was a physical space, it would be Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort. The well-being property is a byproduct of a partnership with Four Seasons and billionaire CEO Larry Ellison, who owns the secluded Hawaiian island on which it sits, Lānaʻi.
Arriving at Sensei Lanai, I felt like someone had removed a weight from my shoulders that I didn’t realize I was carrying. Flanked by lush vegetation, the plantation-style hotel ushers guests into an airy expanse of effortless luxury that doesn’t feel stuffy. But make no mistake: This is the ultimate restorative travel experience for those who aim to do it right.
I arrived at the island resort via private plane (a short half-hour flight from Honolulu) and was welcomed in pure Hawaiian fashion with a beautiful lei and a refreshing fruit-infused welcome cocktail.
Before becoming a Four Seasons, the hotel was originally The Lodge at Koele, one of Hawaii’s rare inland hotels. The property was temporarily closed for renovations and reopened in November 2019 as Sensei Lanai. It boasts 92 spacious rooms, four elite suites, and a connected Nobu restaurant.
It’s so much more than a luxurious place to eat and sleep, though. One of the biggest selling points is its create-your-own-wellness adventure, in which guests can choose from a menu of activities, including golf, hiking, forest bathing, mindset consultations, body composition analysis, well-being classes, private spa hales, and more. At the heart of it all is the Sensei Way, which is described as an evidence-led approach integrating healthy living practices into three paths: move, nourish, and rest.
Packing for the trip was as laidback as the experience itself. After researching, I quickly gleaned that ease was the name of the game in terms of wardrobe at this resort. I brought your typical resort wear: loose-fitting, breathable fabrics; active clothing and gym shoes; a light jacket for the cool, clear evenings; swimsuits; and casual sandals. Most guests also got that memo, and I saw many flowy dresses, linens, and flat shoes.
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Speaking of guests, I spoke to a few during my stay and quickly surmised that we had something in common: exhaustion. One resort goer said she came to the resort for a 14-day stay after throwing her back out from stress as she kept up with her CEO role at a Fortune 500 company. Another guest shared that she comes every six months to recover from the busiest times of her career and reset for the new year. As a freelance writer and entrepreneur, I understand firsthand how professional rigors can force us to put our physiology last on the priority list. That’s why mind and body restoration was most important to me when I sat down to curate my activity agenda.
After an initial night of rest, I bounded into the following day, ready for my one-on-one biomarker session. Following my assessment on a body composition analysis machine that uses a low-level electrical current to collect key metrics, I was given a nutrition guide that examined multiple data points focused on muscle, fat, and hydration status. We also had a long talk about my diet and fitness habits and how they informed my body’s functioning.
Then, I was scheduled to enjoy some restorative and relaxing activities, including everything from yin yoga to an ofuro sea salt soak.
I went into the yin yoga session a bit apprehensive as I’m not as flexible as I used to be — I fully expected to feel like I’d completed a challenging fitness class. But imagine my surprise when I was immersed in an hour-long, slow, deep stretch. The instructor told us that we would be there to “ease into ourselves” through paced movements that reach connective tissues we usually neglect.
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The next day, I was treated to a guided meditation session in the resort’s serene gardens, where I could reconnect with the sun, sky, and water. I was then able to experience my first ever functional fascia class in which a sensei guide helped my body to release stuck or shortened fascia. After 30 minutes, I felt like I stood taller and walked more smoothly.
By my last day, I felt replenished, refreshed, and more centered than in years. I also noticed I wasn’t glued to my phone as much, which was a feat since I have a (self-diagnosed) full-blown digital addiction. In just a few short days, I’d found myself a bonafide follower of the Sensei Way, which I’ve come to understand is the practice of making more of life’s moments more meaningful. Although I’m sure I’ll slip back into some old habits, I’ll try harder to put my well-being first.
Here’s my review of my experience at the Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort.
Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort
Every stay comprises a fully curated, balanced itinerary that includes activities focused on enriching guests’ mental, physical, and spiritual well-being.
Clean, artfully prepared meals are available via in-room dining and at the on-site Nobu restaurant.
The staff is highly knowledgeable, organized, and friendly.
The focus on self-connection fosters an almost entirely digital-free, stressless environment.
The Rooms
Situated in the remote uplands of Lānaʻi, the rooms span from the Koele Deluxe Room to a Kaiholena Suite, all boasting different amenity levels. Still, one throughline with all the rooms is that they’re all flooded with beautiful natural light. The hotel’s 96 luxurious guest rooms and suites perfectly balance simple stillness with fast technology, as evidenced by the 75-inch LED TVs outfitted in each space. Most rooms overlook the ethereal outdoor landscape and tantalizing views of the outdoor art.
As someone who regularly suffers from seasonal affective disorder, I’m a huge fan of light and airy-feeling sleeping spaces, and this room did not disappoint. Filled with dreamy neutrals and lots of texture, my room was a soothing mix of cozy and upscale luxury.
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I was told that the serene outdoor nature scene inspired the color palette, evoking a seamless end-to-end relaxation experience. One of my favorite features was the inviting window seat, where I found time to curl up to read. My bed was also one of the most comfortable I’ve ever slept in, apart from my own at home. (Guests can choose their style of mattress to help personalize their sleep while at the resort.)
I could dine al fresco on the outdoor balcony, perfect for two. The room was outfitted with intuitive lighting, temperature, and privacy controls via iPads. After long days of travel, I was highly grateful for the in-room dining ordering feature via iPads, saving me a phone call to the concierge desk.
As someone who enjoys a good selfie session, I was delighted that the bathrooms featured vanity consoles with carved stone tops, custom fixtures, and dimmable lighting. There was also plenty of mirroring throughout that was tall enough to accommodate my 5 ’10” frame. Each restroom also has Toto washlets and signature Sensei bath amenities inspired by the island.
The refreshment center offers water, locally sourced Hawaiian coconut water, and a selection of healthy gourmet snacks, including gluten-free items.
Food and Drink
Embarrassingly, I’d never been to a Nobu restaurant before this trip, but I have to say it was completely worth the wait. The resort’s on-site dining partner served the signature Japanese offerings found in its stand-alone restaurants worldwide.
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For dinner each night, I indulged in fresh-caught seafood, sushi, and hand-crafted cocktails that left me wanting more. Luckily, I could eat these foods guilt-free. The resort prides itself on maintaining a clean food philosophy, prioritizing the taste of its meals and how guests feel after eating them. The menus were designed by world-renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his team in close collaboration with Sensei nutritionists to maintain the health-first approach.
The culinary team partnered with local growers to source organic seasonal foods, including produce from Sensei Farms, which is just steps away from the property.
Of course, all dishes can be prepared to accommodate vegan and gluten-free diets. I indulged in all the traditional machinations, including the conventional Hawaiian lunch and breakfast, including free-range ham, local fruit, and bacon.
The Spa
Sensei not only has an on-site spa — it has 10.
Individuals or couples can enjoy the spa hales, which are outfitted with oversized spa tables, indoor and outdoor showers, an infrared sauna, steam rooms, ofuro baths, private plunge pools, and lounging areas. I enjoyed a 120-minute facial and massage in one of them, and it was the best I’ve ever had.
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Guests can select a spa experience that addresses their biggest concern, in keeping with the Move, Rest, and Nourish brand tenets. I knew my spirit needed a bit of rest after a tough year, and my skin was also showing signs of exhaustion, so I chose the Rest option.
I indulged in a drawn ofuro bath soak in my own personal hale. The water was infused with raw sea salt, marine algae, and flower nectar oil. Then, I received an intense facial and scalp massage using all-natural Italian products. Lastly, my masseuse gave me an incredibly relaxing full-body massage, followed by an infrared sauna sit and open-air shower.
Activities and Experiences
This property offers guests a 90,000-acre playground where they can enjoy a myriad of activities. Many are managed by Four Seasons, so coordination is seamless. Sensei’s philosophy hinges on offering experiences centered on water, movement, and earth, which are illustrated through the experiences offered on the island.
Guests can arrange to partake in scuba excursions, deep sea fishing, horseback riding, archery, and shooting at the island’s gun range. If you’re aiming for a more mellow event, I’d highly suggest the sunset sail, a two-hour cruise along the scenic Lanai coastline aboard the island’s private mini-yacht. I was able to enjoy a chilled cocktail and freshly prepared bites while watching the sun sink into the horizon.
Family-friendly Offerings
Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort, is an adults-only wellness enclave on the Hawaiian island of Lanai. However, its sister property, the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, is just a 20-minute drive up the road and offers a variety of family-friendly activities, including Kids For All Seasons, a complimentary program for children ages 5 to 12. There, children can learn about petroglyphs, partake in hula dancing lessons, build volcanic structures, hunt for lizards and other gentle wildlife on the property, or splash around in the many pools on the property.
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Accessibility and Sustainability
For years, Sensei has demonstrated a deep commitment to sustainability and has become a leader in eco-initiatives. For its efforts, the property was awarded the Hawaii Green Business Award. For example, the property offers electric vehicle (EV) charging stations for guest use. In terms of housekeeping, linens and towels are replaced every third day unless otherwise requested to conserve energy and resources.
My room was outfitted with energy-saving controls and a water-conserving Toto washlet. The resort also promotes the elimination of single-use plastics, in which guests receive complimentary insulated refillable bottles (two maximum per room) to use at FloWater drinking water refill stations located around the property. Also, everywhere I turned, there were recycling receptacles in place.
Furthermore, I was told that food waste is diverted from landfills and regularly donated to local farmers for agricultural use.
Location
The resort sits 1,700 feet above sea level and is within walking distance of Lanai City, a sleepy former plantation town with no stoplights and a quiet yet approachable vibe. Although you don’t have any view of the ocean from Sensei, the surrounding forest is just as gorgeous. Lanai Air services Honolulu International Airport with flights between 7 a.m. and 6 p.m.
How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay
Overall, my stay at this resort was unforgettable, mainly due to the partnered planning of my schedule with the staff. There’s something for everyone, from nutritional sessions, yoga, and hiking to hours-long massage sessions; if you aim to relax, you can do it here. Lean on the staff to help pre-arrange your itinerary so that you can unplug in style once you arrive.
Hawaii national park rangers have reissued warnings about volcano tourism after a small child wandered off and came within feet of a 400ft cliff near the rim of Kīlauea volcano, whose latest eruption had begun on 23 December.
“The hazards that coincide with an eruption are dangerous, and we have safety measures in place including closed areas, barriers, closure signs and traffic management,” said park superintendent Rhonda Loh in a statement.
“Your safety is our utmost concern, but we rely on everyone to recreate responsibility. National parks showcase nature’s splendor but they are not playgrounds,” Loh added.
The United States Geological Survey (USGS) Hawaiian volcano observatory reported that the eruption had entered its second pause and, as it could restart at any time, toxic gas emissions were still high. Glassy volcanic particulates, called tephra, blanketed the closed portion of Crater Rim Drive downwind of the lava fountains that were active over the last few days.
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In an advisory, the park service warned that visitors may encounter unstable ground, sharp volcanic rocks and hidden lava tubes that pose risks of injury. It added that volcanos can produce hazardous gases like sulfur dioxide, and that weather conditions can change rapidly.
The child had wandered off from his family “in a split second”, park officials said, as the family stood at the top of a 400ft cliff, admiring the lava glow within Kaluapele – the Kīlauea caldera – at sunset on 23 December. The ongoing eruptions of Kīlauea, now the fifth since 2020, have sent lava fountains as high as 262ft with molten material.
The toddler ran toward the edge of the cliff before his mother snatched him up just feet away from what likely would have been a fatal fall.
Officials at active volcanos often struggle to balance the spectacle of an eruption with safety. They say it pays to know whether the earth’s expulsion is effusive and explosive.
Effusive eruptions involve a relatively gentle flow of lava, often erupting from a fissure with the lava slowly creating a broad, cone-shaped mountain of hardened lava. Under those conditions, the main risks include lava flows and harmful, invisible gases.
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Explosive eruptions carry the risks of ash fall, the potential for landslides and rockfalls, as well as pyroclastic flows – fast-moving and lethal clouds of hot gas and volcanic matter that cause severe burns, fatalities and destruction of anything in their path – volcanic blasts and volcanic mudflows.
Travel insurer World Nomads advises researching your volcano destination, familiarizing yourself with the evacuation routes and procedure, and visiting with a licensed guide.
Tsunamis have killed more people in Hawaii than any other form of natural disaster, yet basic tsunami education — from signs of an approaching one to what to do when it comes — is severely lacking in the Islands. Located in downtown Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, the Pacific Tsunami Museum was initially founded 30 years ago to fill that void — a hub for education and awareness that contends “no one should die due to a tsunami.” The museum is filled with photos and videos of tsunamis that have hit Hawaii and other parts of the Pacific, along with a large archive of firsthand interviews with survivors.
Now, it’s at risk of closing its doors for good.
Earlier this month, the Pacific Tsunami Museum laid off all 10 of its employees and suspended operations. Former staff are now volunteering their time to keep the doors open on a reduced schedule.
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“We have several problems,” Walter Dudley told SFGATE. Dudley co-founded the museum with tsunami survivor Jeanne Johnston in 1994 to educate residents and visitors about the natural disaster and to serve as a living memorial to those who lost their lives.
The museum’s 100-year-old historic building, which was donated to the organization in 1997, is expensive to maintain. “The AC died and cost us way outside our budget,” Dudley said. “The roof sprung a leak and we used our entire supplemental budget to fix that and clear up mold because, you know, Hilo is on the rainy side.”
Dudley doesn’t want to see the museum close completely. “Sadly, that’s one possibility,” he said. “I mean, we all hope that doesn’t happen, but unless we get some, you know, some serious help for the issues that we do have, that’s the worst-case scenario.”
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The museum needs monetary donations to fix up the building and to pay the staff so that it can reopen. “As the years go by, a lot of survivors who were many of our biggest supporters have passed away,” Dudley continued. “They’re no longer around, and that actually makes our mission all that much important because people tend to forget that tsunamis are a true and present danger in Hawaii.”
The last deadly Hawaii tsunami was in 1975, when an earthquake off the coast of the Island of Hawaii generated large waves within seconds that killed two people. In 1960, a tsunami resulting from a 9.5 Chilean earthquake killed 61 people in Hilo.
The deadliest tsunami to hit Hawaii in modern history was on April 1, 1946, when a magnitude 8.6 earthquake in the Aleutian Islands off Alaska triggered a tsunami with waves reaching heights of 55 feet. At least 159 people were killed throughout the Hawaiian island chain. The greatest loss of life was in Hilo, where an estimated 96 people died.
Because there are spans of years between major tsunami events, education is important to remind people of Hawaii’s tsunami history and risks — and to take them seriously.
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“There’s an apathy around knowing and believing it will happen again. And it will happen again. It absolutely will,” Cindi Preller, director of the Pacific Tsunami Museum, told SFGATE. “The earth’s tectonics don’t change. It’s just unpredictable, it’s unknowable. And for the local tsunami, it can arrive in just a few minutes, so it’s really, really, really important that people know nature’s warning signs as well as the official warning signs.”
Preller, who is now working as a volunteer alongside her staff, said visitor numbers were fine but building repairs have set them back. “If we were going to really restore this building, that would cost millions,” she said.
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Through it all, Preller remains focused on the mission of the museum. She wants to revitalize the space and would like to see a new generation come in and help rebuild and do new things with the exhibits.
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“We need to strategically plan and create,” she said. “We just need to really revitalize and shake things up and create a plan so that we never ever have to shutter again.”
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