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Hawaii wants visitors to stop disrespecting Kealakekua Bay

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Hawaii wants visitors to stop disrespecting Kealakekua Bay


Twelve miles south of Kailua-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii, the brilliant blue water of Kealakekua Bay is popular with visitors who want to snorkel among its marine life and learn Hawaiian history. Visually striking, a soaring cliff face embraces the bay, which saw British explorer Captain James Cook’s last voyage and violent death in 1779.

However, that historic moment in time is but one of the controversies circling Kealakekua Bay.

The island’s largest bay is part of Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park, which also includes Napoopoo Beach; Kaawaloa, a historic fishing village; and Hikiau Heiau, an ancient place of worship still used for ceremonies today. About 115,000 people visit the approximately 537-acre park annually, according to the most recent study from 2007. Most arrive by boat to snorkel and view the Captain Cook monument, a white obelisk constructed in 1874 near the spot where he was killed. Others hike down a steep trail. 

Similar to Hanauma Bay on Oahu, Kealakekua Bay is a Marine Life Conservation District, protecting the historically significant and ecologically delicate area. Still, some visitors disregard its fragile ecosystem and cultural sites, treating them like a theme park, even as locals and marine life continue to call Kealakekua home.   

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Hikiau Heiau is an ancient Hawaiian temple on the shoreline of Kealakekua Bay. 

Hikiau Heiau is an ancient Hawaiian temple on the shoreline of Kealakekua Bay. 

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Some visitors have demonstrated problematic behavior: walking on protected coral while snorkeling or swimming, bothering protected species, littering or entering the sacred heiau. In one egregious example, a Maui man chased an adolescent humpback whale and dolphins there in 2023; he was later cited for wildlife harassment.

Trampling coral

For residents, one of the biggest concerns is visitors trampling the fragile and living reef, Frank Carpenter, the co-owner of Kealakekua Bay tour company Kona Boys, told SFGATE. Kealakekua Bay’s delicate coral reef is home to myriad species of marine life and serves as shelter, feeding and spawning grounds for rare tropical fish, along with other aquatic creatures. According to a Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology study, many reef fish make Kealakekua Bay their permanent home. 

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To protect marine life, companies like Kona Boys — one of only a few companies authorized by the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) to lead tours and rent kayaks in the bay — begin by educating visitors. A Kona Boys tour starts with a talk on Kealakekua’s history, deep cultural roots and ecological awareness, including not standing on living coral.
 
“It’s not only historically significant, it’s a sacred spot, so it’s really important that you enter it with respect and that you’re coming in there with the right intent and you’re educating the people you’re taking, not only on the marine life and the ecological aspects but also on the cultural aspects,” Carpenter said. “In my opinion, it’s critical that people go with authorized, reputable guides. It’s unfortunate, but some operators are just in it for the money.”

The white obelisk monument at Kealakekua Bay was constructed in 1874 near the place where British explorer Captain James Cook was killed. 

The white obelisk monument at Kealakekua Bay was constructed in 1874 near the place where British explorer Captain James Cook was killed. 

imageBROKER/Thomas Lammeyer/Getty Images/imageBROKER RF

Locals often step in to help educate visitors, with varying degrees of success. Carpenter, a resident of Kealakekua Bay who also serves on the board of several conservation-focused nonprofits, explained some people are receptive to correction when a local lets them know that coral is a living organism that can be easily damaged when walked upon. Those visitors may apologize, but others are defensive and uncaring.
 
“It’s really difficult because the way things are right now, there’s not really any enforcement down there because the state doesn’t have enough staff to be down there monitoring it, and it puts us in a really delicate situation because we want to educate people, but a lot of people down there aren’t open to that,” Carpenter said.

Mitigating impacts

Having visitors understand that coral is a living, symbiotic organism is vital to the bay’s ongoing health.

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“I feel so privileged every time I come into that bay to be working in a place of such historical, cultural and biological significance. It’s an incredibly special place,” Julia Rose, the coral restoration program manager for the Nature Conservancy, told SFGATE. “Having some level of reverence when you’re in that space … the corals on the reef, some of those corals were probably there when Captain Cook was there.” 

About 115,000 people visit Kealakekua Bay every year. The majority of them come by boat to snorkel in its waters.

About 115,000 people visit Kealakekua Bay every year. The majority of them come by boat to snorkel in its waters.

Hotaik Sung/Getty Images/iStockphoto

In 2020, the Hawaii Tourism Authority released its current Destination Management Action Plan (DMAP) for the island of Hawaii and invited community voices such as Conservation International Hawaii Senior Program Manager Ulu Ching into the planning process. The tourism authority’s DMAPs are, as Ching told SFGATE, a “literal road map for how to care for an area.”
 
Ching said that like many others in Hawaii, she has “a love-hate relationship with tourism,” pointing out that while tourism “can be something of a blessing in terms of being an economic driver,” there was also “the extractive nature of tourism, the painting over of really important native narratives of the places where tourism is integral to economy.” 

“It has opened up Hawaii to the world in a way that we — the people of Hawaii — haven’t had control or input into how we’ve been opened up,” she said. For more than 100 years, she added, the tourism industry has been economically dominant in Hawaii, and the residents and Native Hawaiian people want the industry to prioritize their stories, people and places over monetary boons.
 
Shifting to more regenerative tourism is critical for places such as Kealakekua Bay. February 2024 saw the first coral restoration project there, dubbed Kanu Koa, and the community took part in the regeneration of the life form considered sacred in Hawaiian culture for being among the planet’s first.
 
On that day in February, Rose and other divers harvested and rescued coral bits that had broken off with little chance of survival. They were then brought to the surface and passed down a line of community members in attendance. Using marine epoxy, divers fastened the pieces to living coral of the same species over 10-by-10-meter lots. When pieces are given a firm foothold on something else, the regeneration of the coral can be successful.  

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Respecting culture

Walking on the coral is only one type of disrespectful behavior seen from visitors to Kealakekua Bay. By involving community stewards, the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources hopes to promote better understanding among visitors.

A generational Kealakekua Bay resident, Shane Akoni Nelsen can trace his lineage in the bay back 500 years. He explains that his ancestors welcomed people from across the globe for centuries, which is part of Kealakekua Bay’s historic significance. He fished as a child, with his community subsisting on fare from the ocean, working together to malama (care for) the land and water. Then, the fish they caught for food began to taste like the sunscreen that coated most visitors entering the water, given the burgeoning tourism industry.

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park is an approximately 537-acre park, which includes the 315-acre bay along with Napoopoo Beach, Kaawaloa and Hikiau Heiau.

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park is an approximately 537-acre park, which includes the 315-acre bay along with Napoopoo Beach, Kaawaloa and Hikiau Heiau.

RASimon/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Nelsen leads the community stewardship nonprofit Hoala Kealakekua Nui. He said that the vision for the organization is to “ … restore balance that’s relevant for us today, for the Native peoples that still live down there and struggle to live there today, and to still have the visitor piece.”

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“My entire life, about three or four generations, we have been disconnected from stewarding our place because of the MLCD and for the purpose of engaging tourism in the bay because of its historical significance and its pristine marine waters,” said Nelsen, “but [eventually] the lineal descendants were no longer able to provide subsistence … not just in certain areas, but also because of impacts from the tourism industry.” 

Hoala Kealakekua Nui operates under an agreement with DLNR to help steward the land and its resources. Nelsen and his team partnered with the Nature Conservancy to create a multifaceted Community Action Plan that was released in 2022 to help the area’s natural resources thrive again. 

The plan stated that the bay’s top threat was people acting disrespectful toward residents and the bay’s natural and cultural resources. It also said people are trespassing and overpromoting the bay through social media, which contributes to overcrowding. Coral restoration was deemed a critical action item by all involved. 
 
For generational residents like Nelsen, there is a reverence for the area, which remains a final resting place for their ancestors and a ceremonial space where traditions are still honored. Nelsen and his team wanted to integrate traditional knowledge and practices into the tourism industry along with DLNR’s recently approved Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park master plan. It calls for incorporating Hawaiian cultural practices and values into its strategies; adding interpretive programs to promote visitor “understanding, awareness, appreciation, and respect for the significant historic, cultural and natural resources of Kealakekua;” and including local knowledge and stewardship in its management. 
 
“It’s important because if you don’t recognize the Native peoples, their culture and their subsistence, then it’s not part of the management. It’s not included in the vision,” Nelsen states. “We’re still well and alive, we’re not historical and preserved, we’re still there struggling to exist.” 

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Editor’s note: SFGATE recognizes the importance of diacritical marks in the Hawaiian language. We are unable to use them due to the limitations of our publishing platform.

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Virus to fight coconut rhinoceros beetle shows promising results – West Hawaii Today

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Virus to fight coconut rhinoceros beetle shows promising results – West Hawaii Today


Every other day inside a lab on the third floor of the St. John Plant Science Laboratory building on the University of Hawaii at Manoa campus, doctoral student Kristen Gaines opens up a refrigerator full of beetle larvae, hoping to find them dead.

“When I see a dead one, it’s still pretty gratifying,” she said.

Gaines is a research assistant investigating a virus to kill the coconut rhinoceros beetle, also referred to as CRB, which is decimating Oahu’s coconut and palm trees. After years of trying to eradicate the beetle, the problem has grown to a full infestation, with thousands of trees dead because of the pest.

The virus Gaines is testing is a variant of the oryctes rhinoceros nudivirus, referred to as OrNV, which was discovered in the 1960s by German scientist Dr. Alois Huger, according to a 2022 report by researchers from New Zealand and Samoa. The virus, which Huger isolated after he killed healthy beetles by feeding them ones that had died of the virus, was the first time Samoa was able to successfully manage the pest after its introduction in 1910 from a Sri Lanka cargo vessel.

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Preliminary results from her testing are promising, Gaines said. She’s observed larvae die after contracting the virus both by injection and naturally from deceased larvae. Most recently, she said, three out of four larvae died after she placed them inside a bin with a dead infected specimen.

Lack of testing facilities

Several East Asian and Pacific island nations have used the virus or variations of it to manage CRB for decades. While there is plenty of research that confirms the virus’ efficacy against the pest, there has been little research on how the virus may affect native beetles, such as the Kauai stag beetle, according to UH principal researcher Michael Melzer.

Other island chains that used the virus against CRB had economies more dependent on palm oil where the potential benefits of releasing the virus outweigh the risks or did not have native insects to worry about, Melzer said. The virus is host-specific, meaning it doesn’t mutate to infect other types of creatures, so the main concern is its effect on native beetles and similar insects.

Despite the beetle arriving in Hawaii in 2013, the state did not receive a permit to test the virus until April due to the lack of facilities where the tests could be safely administered and contained, said Jonathan Ho, plant quarantine branch manager for the state Department of Agriculture and Biosecurity.

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He said the CRB invasion on Oahu reached the point where it was “all over the place,” and it wasn’t feasible to spray or inject every coconut tree on the island and properly dispose of all the green waste.

“At that point, at the landscape level, biocontrol was the only real realistic solution to mitigate the threat of CRB,” Ho said. “We weren’t going to spray or treat our way out of it.”

He added that despite its efficacy elsewhere in the Pacific, adequate testing is crucial to protect Hawaii’s environment and ensure the right virus strain is being utilized.

Melzer said federal funding the state received to respond to the CRB threat changed from an eradication focus to containment around 2020, ultimately leading to the development of the containment lab and procedures in order to score a federal permit to import the virus and begin testing on larvae.

A near ‘eureka’ moment

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The entry to the colony lab, where Tomie Vowell, a member of the research support team, rears beetles for experiments on request, is a secure, pitch-black room that serves as a bridge between the lab and the hallway.

If a beetle were to escape — one never has, according to Melzer — it would get confused in the darkness. A single light in the corner would be turned on to attract the beetle so it could be recaptured.

“We basically just don’t want that virus leaving the lab, because we don’t know what impact it might have on both native or beneficial insects in Hawaii,” Melzer said.

From the dark room is a door that leads to the lab, where there are four locked refrigerators with beetles at different life stages in various labeled containers.

CRB eggs resemble small white balls. Once hatched, the tiny, pale grubs grow up to 2-1/2-inches long with a strong, black exoskeleton adorned with a rhinoceros-­like horn and fuzzy underbelly. Their natural life cycle from grub to adult is typically a year, Vowell said.

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Melzer traveled to Palau to get the virus strain the island nation had used successfully to combat the beetle, and brought it back to Hawaii.

In a separate lab, Gaines dresses in full protective gear before injecting the virus into CRB larvae. The infected larvae become lethargic as their gut becomes inflamed.

Gaines said the first time she suspected a larva exhibiting symptoms had died of the virus, it was “not quite a eureka moment, but close to it.”

It can take two to four weeks for larvae to succumb to the virus, Melzer said, while infected adults live longer but ultimately become too lethargic to eat and starve to death.

He said the virus is effective because the beetles live long enough to spread the infection to others but in the end die themselves within weeks.

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‘It’s already too late’

If everything goes to plan, Melzer estimates the virus could possibly be released into the wild within two years. Ho said the timeline is dependent on state and federal regulatory processes.

For some landscapers, the window for effective CRB containment has long closed.

“It just sucks because there’s a lot that could be done,” said Brent White, owner of Lush Palm Landscapes. “Maybe you should just let that thing (the virus) go out now and kill the beetles. It’s already too late. The North Shore is already gone. All the trees on the North Shore are going to be cut down pretty soon, they’re all going to be gone. There’s no saving it now — sorry, too late — which is really sad.”

White said he’s turned to treating his palm trees nightly with essential oils, which has helped keep his trees alive, but takes a lot of labor.

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“It’s still so hard,” he said. “The minute you stop treating, the beetles come back and attack the tree. It’s just really sad that it’s growing out of control and there wasn’t proper mitigation methods in the beginning to stop it from happening.”

Chance Correa, owner of Malama Aina Landscape and Masonry Design, and Daniel Anthony, founder of nonprofits Hui Aloha ‘Aina Momona and Aloha Organic, agree.

The two employ Korean organic farming techniques to combat the beetle.

“In two to four years, we could lose every coconut tree,” Correa said. “There might not be coconuts to farm. It’s that bad.”

Aloha Organic uses a sulfur mixture to deter the beetle, Anthony said, along with nutrients to feed the trees.

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“We noticed that the healthier your tree was, the more resilient it was to the beetle,” he said.

Anecdotally, Anthony’s methods have worked. During a visit Thursday, the residential property he’s been treating monthly in Kaaawa had plenty of coconuts in its trees, while a next-door neighbor’s trees showed evidence of beetle damage.

For both Correa and Anthony, coconuts are part of their culture that helped their ancestors survive for centuries.

“It’s life or death for us, for our culture, for our community,” Anthony said.

The two also share concerns about the long-term effects of chemical use on the trees and the fruit they produce.

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More testing planned

Existing recommendations from the Department of Agriculture and Biosecurity to combat CRB include chemicals, organic options such as fungi and physical barriers such as netting. Ho said that while he has not heard of sulfur successfully deterring the beetle and it hasn’t been formally studied, any organic option that can be replicated would be welcome.

Basal oil is another organic option to repel beetles, according to the agency’s website.

Ho said the process for a pesticide to get approval for use against CRB does not necessarily require the same type of rigorous testing on its effects on native species that a bio-agent such as the virus does. But, he explained, both the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the state have labeling processes for use as a pesticide.

He added that the chemicals listed on the agriculture department’s website are labeled as being usable and then tested by either UH or a survey response to test efficacy.

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Other than treating palm trees, Ho said the best way to manage CRB until a successful bio-agent is approved is to manage green waste and prevent breeding.

In the meantime, Melzer and Gaines plan to begin testing the virus against native species and potentially bring in a different strain from another affected area to build a virus “library.”

Melzer said he also hopes to get a permit to test on adult beetles, which so far has not been approved due to the risk of the winged insects escaping by flight.

“We rear CRB for research purposes and we’ve never lost an adult out of there,” he said. “We’re hoping to convince them that we’re never going to lose an adult over here.”

If a permit is not obtained, Melzer said, UH will have to look at better bio-containment facilities so it can finish the testing process.

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“Everyone recognizes how important it is that we have these facilities, not even just for CRB, but for other things in the future,” he said. “CRB will not be the last impactful invasive species in Hawaii.”





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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans review – a feather-filled thriller full of gods, gourds and ghosts

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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans review – a feather-filled thriller full of gods, gourds and ghosts


Relations between Britain and the Pacific kingdom of Hawaii didn’t get off to a great start. On 14 February 1779 the global explorer James Cook was clubbed and stabbed to death at Hawaii’s Kealakekua Bay in a dispute over a boat: it was a tragedy of cultural misunderstanding that still has anthropologists arguing over its meaning. Cook had previously visited Hawaii and apparently been identified as the god Lono, but didn’t know this. Marshall Sahlins argued that Cook was killed because by coming twice he transgressed the Lono myth, while another anthropologist, Gananath Obeyesekere, attacked him for imposing colonialist assumptions of “native” irrationality on the Hawaiians.

It’s a fascinating, contentious debate. But the aftermath of Cook’s death is less well known – and the British Museum’s telling of it, in collaboration with indigenous Hawaii curators, community leaders and artists, reveals a surprisingly complex if doomed encounter between different cultures.

Cook isn’t mentioned in the wall texts or portrayed in the show, but his ghost is everywhere in the objects he and his men brought back to Britain. And what marvels they are. Before Cook’s voyages the peoples of the Pacific, connected with each other by epic canoe crossings that linked the Polynesians from Hawaii and Easter Island to Tahiti and New Zealand, created cultural forms that we now call art. Giant pink feathered faces of gods with mother-of-pearl eyes grimace and gurn while a club embedded with tiger shark teeth combines beauty and menace. Bowls carried by naked figures on their backs embody how Hawaiian chiefs and monarchs were feasted and respected.

Kiʻi (image) of the god Kū, a Hawaiian god whose realm includes warfare and governance. Photograph: © The Trustees of the British Museum

Monarchy is at the heart of this show, a common language shared by the otherwise chalk and cheese Hawaiians and Britons. After the death of Cook, which was heartily regretted on both sides, Hawaii learned, as it were, to speak British and assert its equality with a “modern” state. It worked, for a while. In 1810 King Kamehameha I sent a magnificent, feathered cloak to George III, with a yellow diamond pattern on red – on loan here from the Royal Collection which still owns it. The king apologised that he was too far away to support Britain in the Napoleonic Wars but expressed friendship – and could Britain help if Hawaii was attacked by France? The Hawaiian cloak is wittily juxtaposed here with a glittering jewelled costume worn by George IV at his coronation: idiosyncratic customs existed on both sides of the world.

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Forget Cook, the show suggests: remember King Liholiho. In 1824 he and his Queen Kamamulu set out on a journey that reversed all those British “discoveries”. They set sail for Britain laden with gifts, hitching a lift on a whaling ship (the story would be even better if they’d gone by outrigger canoe). George IV seems to have been touched by the greetings from across two oceans because he received the Hawaiians in 1824 with diplomatic honours. They were seen in the royal box at the theatre and portrayed by artists. Typically cartoonists were less generous – Cruikshank portrays the depraved George IV with his arms around a tattooed Polynesian. They also visited the British Museum where they could not have missed three of its most stunning exhibits, the feathered faces of gods brought back by Cook’s team from Hawaii which are known to have been on display at that time.

In 1810, Kamehameha I – the first king of unified Hawaii – sent this ʻahu ʻula (feathered cloak) along with a letter to George III of the United Kingdom. Photograph: © Royal Collection Enterprises Limited 2025 | Royal Collection Trust

The Hawaiian treasures retrieved from the British Museum’s stores are remarkable – they should have a permanent gallery to themselves. You can’t stereotype them: the fierce gaze of a martial-looking god with a chunky wooden body seems modernist, which is no coincidence because Pacific sculptures helped inspire modernism. I mistook one of the feathered godheads with its almost caricatural eye for a contemporary artwork. It was collected by Cook.

These wonders are not reliquaries of a dead culture. There’s a perfectly preserved 18th-century dance rattle, or ‘uli’uli, brought back from Cook’s third voyage, a gourd from which purple, red and white feathers sprout and radiate. A video shows Hawaiian dancers using a modern recreation of the same instrument. To Hawaiians the artistic masterpieces their ancestors made are bearers of memory, instruments of identity.

ʻUmeke kiʻi (bowl with figure). Photograph: © The Trustees of the British Museum

This exhibition is a celebration of Hawaii and a defence of museums with global collections. The almost miraculous preservation of delicate, fragile artworks made with feathers, teeth, wood and bark for almost 250 years is surely to the British Museum’s credit, as is this way of seeing them as embodiments of living culture.

How does the story end? The king and queen of Hawaii gave their lives for cultural diplomacy: they both died of measles in London in 1824. George IV honoured them by sending their bodies home on a Royal Navy ship. Hawaii successfully persuaded Britain and Europe it was a nation state, with a monarchical government they could do business with – so Britain kept its greedy hands off this one place. In the end it would be the US that seized Hawaii, colonised it and eventually made it the 50th state. The objects here are weapons in a continuing cultural resistance. Look out for that shark-toothed club, Mr President.

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Hawaii: A Kingdom Crossing Oceans is at the British Museum, London, 15 January to 25 May



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Community memorial service for Kazuo Todd today in Hilo – West Hawaii Today

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Community memorial service for Kazuo Todd today in Hilo – West Hawaii Today


The funeral procession for deceased Fire Chief Kazuo Todd with pass-in-review for Hawaii Fire Department firefighters took place Saturday morning at HFD Administration in the County Building on Aupuni Street in Hilo.





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