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Luxe in Alaska aboard Silversea's new Silver Nova

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Luxe in Alaska aboard Silversea's new Silver Nova


With its spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife, picturesque towns and active excursion opportunities, Alaska is a paradise for adventure seekers and wildlife lovers with the added bonus of being in the U.S.

But even the biggest towns are small and most are not connected by roads, and provisions often can be hard to find. So if you’re going to send a luxury traveler to the 49th state, particularly an older or particularly anxious client, a cruise ship is the way to go.

Cruisers have many options in this busiest of Alaska seasons; Silversea’s Silver Nova is the newest. But it’s more than just the new-ship smell that makes it stand out. The design team has combined the latest trends — glass and light, open spaces, clean design, high ceilings and curved walls reminiscent of the waves themselves — to create a ship that brings the ice and snow of this state front and center and wraps it in luxury.

“I didn’t realize it was going to be this beautiful,” said Embark Beyond luxury travel advisor Victoria Page — and that’s just the point, of course. When every turn presents views of the sea lapping against snow-capped mountains or carries the promise of whale or eagle sightings, you want to be able to watch it from the bars, the pools and even the elevators. And Silver Nova delivers on that front.

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One thing we did learn on the fam trip I was invited on is that, in Alaska, the very first sailing of the season is potentially more suited to the adventurous traveler.

In late May, it was still cold and damp around Seward, with temps often in the 20s, and the seas were rough enough that many reached for their Dramamine. And while the staff was excited and grateful to see us, the salmon had not yet arrived on their annual trek to their breeding grounds.

The salmon will eventually cover the tops of the rivers and draw out many more bears, eagles and whales for their own version of fine dining. Still, sailing on the Silver Nova in Alaska is an unforgettable experience, no matter when you do it.

Embarking on the Silver Nova

Memorable excursions

The helicopter ride to the top of the Mendenhall Glacier is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of excursion; pricey at $429 but worth it. Sailing through the fjords also was amazing, and we did see a dozen or so whales on our whale watch, hanging out for about half an hour watching them dive and shoot water spouts into the air.

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We heard complaints from some about crowded conditions at the sled dog camp in Skagway; if clients are animal lovers like they were, they should opt instead for the beautiful ride on the White Pass Scenic Railway. And for active travelers, the 14-mile bike ride back down a mountain is not to be missed (though warm and waterproof clothing really is important). Or guests can just ride the train back in comfort instead.

At the end of a long, chilly day, our ship’s restaurants beckoned. 

The S.A.L.T. cooking classes aboard the ship are free, fun and easy. Photo Credit: Cheryl Rosen

Multiple dining options

On the Silver Nova and her sister ship the Silver Ray, the full grill and pizza restaurants of the Muse-class ships have been combined into The Marquee and moved away from the pool to a beautiful outdoor space.

While few guests took advantage of the outdoor seating at the main La Terrazza restaurant (perhaps because indoors the floor-to-ceiling windows offered great views) many braved the open-air Marquee, sitting under electric heaters while the staff wrapped diners in blankets on cold nights. 

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I found the most popular restaurant, S.A.L.T. Kitchen, was home to consistently amazing, fresh and locally sourced dinners, including my favorite: black cod. One guest said the filet mignon at Atlantide was the best he had ever tasted.

The S.A.L.T. Bar outside was a favorite, as well, with its British speakeasy decor and friendly staff who build customized drinks based on your individual tastes.

Clients with onboard credit might consider The Chef’s Table, well worth the upcharge of $180 per person. Or just sign up for the free, fun and easy S.A.L.T. cooking classes to learn how to make salmon cakes, smoked salmon spread, wild mushroom soup and wild berry crumble, along with knife skills and the best way to caramelize ingredients.

Kudos for the designers

On her fourth cruise with Silversea, Jennie McCalley of Savvy Journeys in San Diego was impressed with Nova’s asymmetrical design, which moves the traditional grand staircase and elevators to the side of the ship rather than making them the central focus and puts all the public spaces and restaurants on the top and bottom decks and all the staterooms in the middle. 

The living room area of a Medallion Suite aboard the Silver Nova.

The living room area of a Medallion Suite aboard the Silver Nova. Photo Credit: Cheryl Rosen

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Decks 6 to 9 have nothing but guestrooms, laid out on either side of a single hallway. “It’s less confusing, and I’ve gotten lost a lot less than I normally do,” McCalley said. 

Another result of the ship’s wavy design is that it “drives guests to become inquisitive, to seek out the little corners like the hidden library and the orange tree by the S.A.L.T. Bar, and try something new,” said hotel director Stephen Crimes. 

The entertainment, too, leans toward individual artists on sax, violin and piano, though the band and production crew are slightly larger than on other ships.

But as always when it comes to luxury, it’s the details that make the experience.

My Medallion Suite featured hidden plugs in the shelf in the dressing table, a bathtub, a laundry hamper and, best of all, a butler who emptied it daily and brought my clothes back clean by 6 p.m.

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My butler, Abhishek, surprised me with caviar from room service; a hot bath with candles and Champagne after a long, cold day outdoors; and clean sneakers when he noticed mine were soiled. 

I tried to hire him and take him home, but apparently his loyalty, like that of many customers onboard, is to Silversea. 



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Pilot dies in small plane crash southeast of Cordova

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Pilot dies in small plane crash southeast of Cordova


A pilot was killed in a plane crash in mountainous terrain near Cordova, Alaska State Troopers said Friday.

The agency was notified of the overdue Piper Pacer around 8 p.m. Thursday, troopers said in an online post. The pilot was believed to be the sole person on board the aircraft, which was thought to be flying between Yakutat and Fairbanks, troopers said.

Aircraft from the Alaska Air National Guard and Alaska Wildlife Troopers started searching for the plane, and a Guard helicopter crew found the overdue Piper Pacer around 4 p.m. Friday where it had crashed near Kanak Island, about 40 miles southeast of Cordova, troopers said.

The pilot, whom troopers did not identify, was found dead in the crashed plane, troopers said. His body was take to the State Medical Examiner Office in Anchorage for autopsy and positive identification, according to troopers.

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Troopers said the pilot’s next of kin and the National Transportation Safety Board were notified.





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It’s the Alaska Legislature’s last day in special session. Here’s the latest.

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It’s the Alaska Legislature’s last day in special session. Here’s the latest.


The Alaska Senate plans to vote today on a new draft of a bill that would reduce taxes on the Alaska LNG project. It’s the last day of a special session Gov. Mike Dunleavy called to consider the issue.

Dunleavy and pipeline developer Glenfarne, which owns a 75% stake in the project, say a measure replacing a 2% annual property tax with a much smaller tax on gas throughput is essential to allowing the project to attract investors and court lenders. Dunleavy and Glenfarne applauded the version of the bill that passed the House a week ago.

The Alaska LNG project, estimated by the developer to cost up to $54.5 billion, includes an 807-mile pipeline, a conditioning facility on the North Slope to remove gas impurities such as carbon dioxide, and a liquefaction plant on the shores of Cook Inlet to export the gas to Asia. The project would be split into two phases: first, a shorter in-state pipeline to provide gas to Alaskans, and then the much more expensive — and much more lucrative — export infrastructure.

The Senate’s new draft retains many of the House’s provisions with some important changes.

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Perhaps the most significant changes are to the project’s timeline: to be eligible for tax relief, the developer must commit to a final investment decision for the first phase by Jan. 1, 2028, and construction of the in-state pipeline would need to be complete by the end of 2032.

The House’s version required only that construction begin by Jan. 1, 2032.

The faster timeline is an effort to address Southcentral’s looming shortage of natural gas, said Sen. Bert Stedman, a Sitka Republican and a co-chair of the Senate Finance Committee. The Department of Natural Resources’ production forecast envisions demand outstripping Cook Inlet gas production by 2032, requiring producers to dip into storage.

“There’s been a lot of concern out of the Railbelt with the declining volume in Cook Inlet,” Stedman said.

But the more aggressive timeline sparked concerns from minority Republicans on the committee; it increases the risk on an already risky, marginal project, they said.

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“That’s very damaging,” said Sen. Mike Cronk, a Tok Republican and the Senate minority leader. “There’s so many factors that we don’t control.”

Putting a “hard construction date” in the bill may be a “poison pill,” Cronk said.

Glenfarne and Gov. Mike Dunleavy did not immediately respond to requests for comment on the new version of the bill.

Stedman suggested future legislatures could revise the date to account for “unforeseen black swan events.”

“We can change these and modify these going forward,” Stedman said. “This is not in the Constitution, so I think there’d be some consideration under good faith trying to get the project constructed.”

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The tax rate at the heart of the bill — the so-called alternative volumetric tax on gas flowing through the pipeline from the North Slope to Southcentral Alaska — would be fixed, rather than a weighted average tied to the cost of each component of the project.

The Senate draft sets the tax initially at 6.2 cents per 1,000 cubic feet of gas throughput, starting five years after gas begins to flow through the pipeline. The tax would take effect sooner if throughput reaches 500 million cubic feet per day, which is more than double what Southcentral Alaska uses now.

The tax would rise to 10.6 cents per 1,000 cubic feet once Phase 2 of the project, which includes the liquefied natural gas export facility, is up and running. The tax revenue from that mirrors what the Department of Revenue estimates the weighted tax that passed the House would yield.

The rates would rise between 1% and 3% each year, depending on inflation.

The House backed 30-plus years of tax breaks. Some senators were skeptical of that, so their version doubles the tax rate ten years after exports begin, then doubles them again in 2060.

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The new bill retains key conditions for the tax relief included in the House’s version: the developer must commit to building a spur line to Fairbanks and negotiate project labor agreements with unions. It also includes up to $80 million in community impact funding for municipalities: $40 million due shortly after the final investment decision for each project phase.

It also includes House-passed price controls on in-state gas. Utilities would pay no more than $16 per million British thermal units, adjusted for inflation. That’s roughly $16.60 per 1,000 cubic feet, substantially higher than current Southcentral gas rates — about $10 — but likely cheaper than imported gas, according to Southcentral’s gas utility.

Also notable is an omission from the bill. It does not include a measure that had been under discussion that would subject large so-called S corporations and other pass-through entities in the oil and gas business, like LLCs, to the state’s corporate income tax.

Glenfarne, in its only comments so far on the new bill, urged lawmakers not to include that tax in the final version.

“If the Senate passes a bill with the proposed S Corp tax, it will introduce major hurdles for Alaska LNG to secure the right financing to build the project,” the company said in a statement provided by spokesperson Tim Fitzpatrick.

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Senators are due to amend the bill and take a final vote later today.

The special session expires at midnight tonight, but Gov. Mike Dunleavy has already signed a proclamation calling another special session to begin Saturday.

Asked whether the new special session represented a contingency plan in an event the bill failed to pass, Dunleavy spokesperson Jeff Turner declined to say.

“We will see what happens,” Turner said.

This is a developing story. Check back for updates.

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8 Prettiest Downtown Strips In Alaska

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8 Prettiest Downtown Strips In Alaska


Alaska’s eight prettiest downtown strips sit in towns as different from each other as the landscapes around them. Skagway draws cruise ship visitors to its Gold Rush history. Sitka pairs Russian Orthodox history with totem-lined trails just beyond downtown. Wrangell is one of the oldest towns in the state. Each downtown is worth spending time in, though Sitka, Ketchikan, and Wrangell are the only ones on this list accessible solely by air or water. In winter, clear dark nights can bring Northern Lights over several of these towns. After a day out, fresh seafood is never far away.

Skagway

Colorful storefronts line the street in downtown Skagway, Alaska. Image credit: lembi via Shutterstock.

Skagway is located in Alaska’s panhandle and is known as the gateway to the Klondike Gold Rush and a major cruise ship destination. For those who love nature and history, visit Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park and hike part of the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, the historic route between Dyea, Alaska, and Lake Bennett, British Columbia. Backpackers can stay at designated campsites along the route, with permits required in season. For food, check out Skagway Brewing Company, which offers craft beers and American comfort foods. Another seasonal Skagway option is Salty Siren, whose menu features Alaskan golden king crab, seafood chowder, fish and chips, and pulled-pork sandwiches.

Sitka

Downtown street in Sitka, Alaska. Image credit: Jeff Whyte via Shutterstock.
Downtown street in Sitka, Alaska. Image credit: Jeff Whyte via Shutterstock.

Sitka sits on Baranof Island and is known for its rich Tlingit and Russian heritage, gorgeous outdoor scenery, and variety of wildlife. Sitka is only accessible by sea or air and is a popular stop on cruises. The area offers lots of outdoor activities, including fishing, hiking, and kayaking. Tourists like to visit St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, a National Historic Landmark whose original 1844-1848 building was reconstructed after a 1966 fire. For a short walk through Sitka’s layered history, visit Sitka National Historical Park, where visitors can enjoy a scenic coastal trail lined with totem poles. Grab a bite to eat at Beak Restaurant for delicious seafood. Or if you’re craving pizza or wings, visit Mean Queen for some comfort food.

Talkeetna

The charming downtown area of Talkeetna, Alaska.
The charming downtown area of Talkeetna, Alaska.

Talkeetna is a historic place in Alaska’s Matanuska-Susitna Borough, famous as a gateway to Denali, North America’s highest peak, which welcomes tourists and climbers from all over the world. Beginning as an Alaska Railroad headquarters, this historic location has an artistic vibe and a vibrant art scene despite its small population. Locals and visitors enjoy flightseeing, rafting, fishing, and delving into the unique history, including Stubbs, the late honorary cat mayor who held the ceremonial role until his death in 2017. For those hoping to see the Northern Lights, Talkeetna’s dark winter skies can be a good base when skies are clear and aurora activity is strong. Once you’re hungry, grab some friends and visit Homestead Kitchen for some traditional rustic options like burgers and flatbreads. Then grab a craft beer at Denali Brewpub in their rustic setting.

Homer

The harbor in Homer, Alaska. Image credit: Charles Knowles via Shutterstock.
The harbor in Homer, Alaska. Image credit: Charles Knowles via Shutterstock.

Found on the Kenai Peninsula, Homer is famous for its gorgeous views of Kachemak Bay, the Homer Spit, and distant volcanoes. Here’s a perfect spot for those hoping to see wildlife and enjoy other outdoor activities, like hiking and fishing. Across the bay, Kachemak Bay State Park is reached by water taxi or air taxi and offers views of the mountains and the ocean. Or head to Bishop’s Beach, which is dog-friendly, and enjoy the soft sand with your four-legged best friend. After experiencing the beautiful scenery of Homer, grab some dinner at the Twisted Goat and dig into some comfort food, including pizza, fish and chips, and burgers. On a nice day, visitors won’t want to miss a local favorite, Water Rudders, which offers a beautiful view from its patio.

Seward

Seward Harbor in Resurrection Bay in Seward, Alaska. Image credit: Raisa Nastukova via Shutterstock.
Seward Harbor in Resurrection Bay in Seward, Alaska. Image credit: Raisa Nastukova via Shutterstock.

Located about 120 miles south of Anchorage, Seward is a scenic port town at the head of Resurrection Bay. It’s loved for its beautiful views of the mountains, marine wildlife, and glaciers, and it serves as a gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park. Here, visitors can take a hike, join in on ranger-guided tours, kayak, and so much more. For those wanting an aerial view, Seward Helicopter Tours offers flights over glaciers and other beautiful sites. For those looking to camp, Waterfront Park offers RV and tent sites with views you can’t beat. After enjoying sightseeing, grab some seafood or steak at Ray’s Waterfront with a wood-paneled dining room overlooking the marina and mountains. Or get some comfort food at The Highliner Restaurant, where the menu includes crab cakes and fish tacos, just to name a few.

Ketchikan

Ketchikan, Alaska. Image credit: Darryl Brooks via Shutterstock.
Ketchikan, Alaska. Image credit: Darryl Brooks via Shutterstock.

Ketchikan is located on Revillagigedo Island in Alaska’s Tongass National Forest, known for its rich native culture, totem poles, and salmon fishing. The town is a popular cruise ship destination and is only accessible by boat or plane. Here, visitors can enjoy wildlife viewing, especially in the summer months. For a beautiful site, look into Misty Fjords National Monument and see sheer granite cliffs, towering 3,000-foot rock walls, deep saltwater fjords, and waterfalls within Tongass National Forest. Locals and visitors enjoy spending time at Creek Street, a historic boardwalk built on pilings over the creek, which is now filled with shops, cafes, and galleries. Grab a bite to eat at The Alaska Fish House with beautiful views out the window and live music. Or order crab and seafood at Ketchikan Crab & Go, a seasonal spot at Salmon Landing that caters to the cruise-season crowd.

Valdez

Valdez boat harbor in Valdez, Alaska.
Valdez boat harbor in Valdez, Alaska.

Found in Southcentral Alaska, Valdez is known for its stunning mountain views, water scenery, and being the southern terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. This former Gold Rush town is a popular destination for fishing, glacier tours, and wildlife viewing, and is accessible via the Richardson Highway from Anchorage and Fairbanks. For shore views of icebergs and the face of Valdez Glacier, head to Glacier View Park at the end of Airport Road. For an easy family-friendly outing near town, try Dock Point Trail, a short coastal loop with ocean and Duck Flats views. In summer, The Potato serves handmade comfort food and beer or wine from its harbor-view location in Valdez. Or get some pizza or fish and chips at The Fat Mermaid. It has a laid-back setting and views of the marina.

Wrangell

The gorgeous landscape of Wrangell, Alaska.
The gorgeous landscape of Wrangell, Alaska.

Wrangell is found in Southeast Alaska, located on Wrangell Island in the Inside Passage, and is known for its Tlingit culture, variety of wildlife, and access to the Stikine River. This is one of Alaska’s oldest towns and offers plenty of outdoor activities like hiking, glacier exploration, and fishing, and is only accessible by air or the Alaska Marine Highway. Anan Wildlife Observatory is a must-visit to see bears, both black and brown, who call it home. You’ll have to take a boat or a floatplane to get there. Access the Stikine River from Wrangell for more wildlife viewing. For food, try Filipino, Thai, sushi, and other Asian dishes at Michelle’s Taste of Asia, a casual, family-run restaurant. Or grab pizza at Hungry Beaver Pizza and Marine Bar by Wrangell’s Inner Harbor.

These eight towns show a side of Alaska that operates at a different pace from the state’s most visited destinations. The downtowns are small, the history runs deep, and the wildlife has a way of showing up whether you plan for it or not.

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