Alaska
Lori Dengler | A 60-year perspective on the Great 1964 Alaska earthquake
At 5:36 p.m. AST on Good Friday 60 years ago, a small crack formed about 16 miles beneath the ground near Prince William Sound on the south coast of Alaska. Over the next four minutes, the rupture would grow both towards the surface and laterally, displacing rock along a 500 mile long by 125-mile-wide fault surface, uplifting some areas by more than 30 feet and dropping others down nearly 8 feet.
For the whole time and area that the fault ruptured, it generated seismic waves. Almost everyone in Alaska felt it, from Ketchikan in the southeast to the eastern Aleutian Islands, and as far north as the Brooks Range, an area of over 800,000 square miles. If I center that same felt map near Humboldt Bay, It would have been felt from Los Angeles to Seattle and inland to Utah and Idaho.
Remembering what happened on March 27, 1964, is not only of historic interest. Very large earthquakes are rare and one of the few places on the planet where they occur is right beneath your feet, if you live in coastal Northern California, Oregon, or Washington. Examining what happened in Alaska provides clues to what could happen here.
I’ve read and heard many accounts of people who were in Alaska that day. There is one that is unique. Bob Pate was a salesman for radio station KHAR in Anchorage and aspired to be an on-air reporter. He carried a portable tape recorder with him and, whenever anything of interest happened around him, would turn it on and describe what was happening. That’s what he did from his home that evening.
“Hey, we’re going through an earth (voice trails), hey boy that’s an earthquake for sure…woo-ee, that’s a good one, boy oh boy oh boy,” the recording begins. From the breathlessness of the narrator, he is very frightened. You can hear everything in the house rattling and crashing. Pate stumbles over words as he tries to describe what is going on and frequently repeats himself. The recording starts about five seconds after the shaking began. By that time, the vibrations are already violent. This strong shaking phase lasts well over a minute and some swaying continues until the end of the recording, more than three minutes later.
While Pate is frightened, he is not panicking. The action of turning on the recorder is a rational one and his attempts to describe what is going on probably help to focus his thoughts. He describes moving the television off the table, so it won’t fall. After the strongest shaking passes, he does a tour of his house to check the damage. And just like I would probably do, he keeps flicking on the light switch only to be reminded that the power is out.
About 100,000 people lived in Anchorage in 1964 and all of them, like Bill Pate, were in the zone of strongest shaking. The Modified Mercalli (MMI) scale is a qualitative measure of shaking strength that varies from zero to XII. We often use Roman numerals to distinguish intensities from magnitude. Intensity V is the level when some items topple over and everyone indoors will feel it. The Anchorage area varied between VIII and X, strong enough to toss items into the air and damage even some well-built structures.
Despite the extreme level of shaking, only nine deaths were directly caused by the earthquake. Four were in Turnagain Heights, a middle-class suburb of newer homes built on the gentle hillslope above the Cook Inlet. When the shaking began, friction melted some of the frozen ground triggering liquefaction and causing 130 acres to slide a third of a mile towards the sea. The ground didn’t move uniformly. It broke into chunks forming great chasms in between. Some of the 75 homes atop the sliding ground likewise broke apart.
Liquefaction also played a role in other parts of Anchorage. The control tower at the airport collapsed killing an air traffic controller. Several areas in the downtown subsided damaging Penny’s Department Store where two people died and Government Hill Elementary School broke in half. Fortunately, it was a holiday, and no one was in the school at the time.
The Good Friday holiday and the early evening hour contributed to the low death toll. Schools and businesses were closed, and most people were at home. But the built environment also contributed; homes were built of wood, and outside of the liquefaction zones, had little structural damage despite their proximity to the fault rupture zone.
Fewer than one hundredth of a percent of the population died from shaking. But like Bill Pate, they were without power and other services. Areas of Anchorage were isolated from one another due to landslides and damage to roads and bridges. Severe weather prevented outside relief efforts for days; more remote areas were on their own for weeks.
For those first hours and days, it was neighbors helping neighbors. Alaskans are resilient by nature and set up informal neighborhood centers to help one another, sharing food and emergency first aid. One radio station was back on air within 24 hours, providing a calming voice and what little information was available. Lyndon Johnson, only four months into his presidency, declared a state of emergency, but it took days for assistance to reach Anchorage.
The details of what happened that Good Friday wouldn’t be known for years. It took painstaking field investigation and re-examination of data, some of which is still ongoing, to draw a more complete picture. 1964 was the dawn of the modern tectonic era and ‘subduction zone’ wouldn’t enter the literature for another six years. A very large earthquake had occurred nearly four years earlier along the coast of southern Chile and the magnitude scale in use at the time gave a value of 8.6. Using that outdated magnitude estimate, the 1964 Alaska had a value of 8.4, barely larger than the 1906 San Francisco quake then ranked at an 8.3.
It would take 15 years before the moment magnitude scale was developed and the true size of these great quakes could be accurately compared. The 1960 Chile earthquake still sits at the top of the earthquake leaderboard at a magnitude of 9.5, Alaska is in second at 9.2 and 1906 San Francisco earthquake, revised to magnitude 7.9, doesn’t even make the top 100. But these changes weren’t made until much later. For people in Alaska, they knew something extraordinary had happened.
We still use a variation of MMI today, although now it is augmented by instruments that measure ground accelerations and responses of people who experienced the earthquake on the USGS “Did You Feel It?” web site.
In case you hadn’t noticed, there is not one mention of a tsunami in what I have written above. Tune in to next week’s column for what happened then and how it might play out differently were a repeat to happen today.
Note: You can find a link to the Bill Pate recording at https://kamome.humboldt.edu/activities/6-8/sounds-quake-grades-6-8. It is part of the online Sounds of a Quake curriculum activity that all teachers are welcome to use.
Lori Dengler is an emeritus professor of geology at Cal Poly Humboldt, an expert in tsunami and earthquake hazards. Questions or comments about this column, or want a free copy of the preparedness magazine “Living on Shaky Ground”? Leave a message at 707-826-6019 or email Kamome@humboldt.edu.
Alaska
Pilot dies in small plane crash southeast of Cordova
A pilot was killed in a plane crash in mountainous terrain near Cordova, Alaska State Troopers said Friday.
The agency was notified of the overdue Piper Pacer around 8 p.m. Thursday, troopers said in an online post. The pilot was believed to be the sole person on board the aircraft, which was thought to be flying between Yakutat and Fairbanks, troopers said.
Aircraft from the Alaska Air National Guard and Alaska Wildlife Troopers started searching for the plane, and a Guard helicopter crew found the overdue Piper Pacer around 4 p.m. Friday where it had crashed near Kanak Island, about 40 miles southeast of Cordova, troopers said.
The pilot, whom troopers did not identify, was found dead in the crashed plane, troopers said. His body was take to the State Medical Examiner Office in Anchorage for autopsy and positive identification, according to troopers.
Troopers said the pilot’s next of kin and the National Transportation Safety Board were notified.
Alaska
It’s the Alaska Legislature’s last day in special session. Here’s the latest.
The Alaska Senate plans to vote today on a new draft of a bill that would reduce taxes on the Alaska LNG project. It’s the last day of a special session Gov. Mike Dunleavy called to consider the issue.
Dunleavy and pipeline developer Glenfarne, which owns a 75% stake in the project, say a measure replacing a 2% annual property tax with a much smaller tax on gas throughput is essential to allowing the project to attract investors and court lenders. Dunleavy and Glenfarne applauded the version of the bill that passed the House a week ago.
The Alaska LNG project, estimated by the developer to cost up to $54.5 billion, includes an 807-mile pipeline, a conditioning facility on the North Slope to remove gas impurities such as carbon dioxide, and a liquefaction plant on the shores of Cook Inlet to export the gas to Asia. The project would be split into two phases: first, a shorter in-state pipeline to provide gas to Alaskans, and then the much more expensive — and much more lucrative — export infrastructure.
The Senate’s new draft retains many of the House’s provisions with some important changes.
Perhaps the most significant changes are to the project’s timeline: to be eligible for tax relief, the developer must commit to a final investment decision for the first phase by Jan. 1, 2028, and construction of the in-state pipeline would need to be complete by the end of 2032.
The House’s version required only that construction begin by Jan. 1, 2032.
The faster timeline is an effort to address Southcentral’s looming shortage of natural gas, said Sen. Bert Stedman, a Sitka Republican and a co-chair of the Senate Finance Committee. The Department of Natural Resources’ production forecast envisions demand outstripping Cook Inlet gas production by 2032, requiring producers to dip into storage.
“There’s been a lot of concern out of the Railbelt with the declining volume in Cook Inlet,” Stedman said.
But the more aggressive timeline sparked concerns from minority Republicans on the committee; it increases the risk on an already risky, marginal project, they said.
“That’s very damaging,” said Sen. Mike Cronk, a Tok Republican and the Senate minority leader. “There’s so many factors that we don’t control.”
Putting a “hard construction date” in the bill may be a “poison pill,” Cronk said.
Glenfarne and Gov. Mike Dunleavy did not immediately respond to requests for comment on the new version of the bill.
Stedman suggested future legislatures could revise the date to account for “unforeseen black swan events.”
“We can change these and modify these going forward,” Stedman said. “This is not in the Constitution, so I think there’d be some consideration under good faith trying to get the project constructed.”
The tax rate at the heart of the bill — the so-called alternative volumetric tax on gas flowing through the pipeline from the North Slope to Southcentral Alaska — would be fixed, rather than a weighted average tied to the cost of each component of the project.
The Senate draft sets the tax initially at 6.2 cents per 1,000 cubic feet of gas throughput, starting five years after gas begins to flow through the pipeline. The tax would take effect sooner if throughput reaches 500 million cubic feet per day, which is more than double what Southcentral Alaska uses now.
The tax would rise to 10.6 cents per 1,000 cubic feet once Phase 2 of the project, which includes the liquefied natural gas export facility, is up and running. The tax revenue from that mirrors what the Department of Revenue estimates the weighted tax that passed the House would yield.
The rates would rise between 1% and 3% each year, depending on inflation.
The House backed 30-plus years of tax breaks. Some senators were skeptical of that, so their version doubles the tax rate ten years after exports begin, then doubles them again in 2060.
The new bill retains key conditions for the tax relief included in the House’s version: the developer must commit to building a spur line to Fairbanks and negotiate project labor agreements with unions. It also includes up to $80 million in community impact funding for municipalities: $40 million due shortly after the final investment decision for each project phase.
It also includes House-passed price controls on in-state gas. Utilities would pay no more than $16 per million British thermal units, adjusted for inflation. That’s roughly $16.60 per 1,000 cubic feet, substantially higher than current Southcentral gas rates — about $10 — but likely cheaper than imported gas, according to Southcentral’s gas utility.
Also notable is an omission from the bill. It does not include a measure that had been under discussion that would subject large so-called S corporations and other pass-through entities in the oil and gas business, like LLCs, to the state’s corporate income tax.
Glenfarne, in its only comments so far on the new bill, urged lawmakers not to include that tax in the final version.
“If the Senate passes a bill with the proposed S Corp tax, it will introduce major hurdles for Alaska LNG to secure the right financing to build the project,” the company said in a statement provided by spokesperson Tim Fitzpatrick.
Senators are due to amend the bill and take a final vote later today.
The special session expires at midnight tonight, but Gov. Mike Dunleavy has already signed a proclamation calling another special session to begin Saturday.
Asked whether the new special session represented a contingency plan in an event the bill failed to pass, Dunleavy spokesperson Jeff Turner declined to say.
“We will see what happens,” Turner said.
This is a developing story. Check back for updates.
Alaska
8 Prettiest Downtown Strips In Alaska
Alaska’s eight prettiest downtown strips sit in towns as different from each other as the landscapes around them. Skagway draws cruise ship visitors to its Gold Rush history. Sitka pairs Russian Orthodox history with totem-lined trails just beyond downtown. Wrangell is one of the oldest towns in the state. Each downtown is worth spending time in, though Sitka, Ketchikan, and Wrangell are the only ones on this list accessible solely by air or water. In winter, clear dark nights can bring Northern Lights over several of these towns. After a day out, fresh seafood is never far away.
Skagway
Skagway is located in Alaska’s panhandle and is known as the gateway to the Klondike Gold Rush and a major cruise ship destination. For those who love nature and history, visit Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park and hike part of the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, the historic route between Dyea, Alaska, and Lake Bennett, British Columbia. Backpackers can stay at designated campsites along the route, with permits required in season. For food, check out Skagway Brewing Company, which offers craft beers and American comfort foods. Another seasonal Skagway option is Salty Siren, whose menu features Alaskan golden king crab, seafood chowder, fish and chips, and pulled-pork sandwiches.
Sitka
Sitka sits on Baranof Island and is known for its rich Tlingit and Russian heritage, gorgeous outdoor scenery, and variety of wildlife. Sitka is only accessible by sea or air and is a popular stop on cruises. The area offers lots of outdoor activities, including fishing, hiking, and kayaking. Tourists like to visit St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, a National Historic Landmark whose original 1844-1848 building was reconstructed after a 1966 fire. For a short walk through Sitka’s layered history, visit Sitka National Historical Park, where visitors can enjoy a scenic coastal trail lined with totem poles. Grab a bite to eat at Beak Restaurant for delicious seafood. Or if you’re craving pizza or wings, visit Mean Queen for some comfort food.
Talkeetna
Talkeetna is a historic place in Alaska’s Matanuska-Susitna Borough, famous as a gateway to Denali, North America’s highest peak, which welcomes tourists and climbers from all over the world. Beginning as an Alaska Railroad headquarters, this historic location has an artistic vibe and a vibrant art scene despite its small population. Locals and visitors enjoy flightseeing, rafting, fishing, and delving into the unique history, including Stubbs, the late honorary cat mayor who held the ceremonial role until his death in 2017. For those hoping to see the Northern Lights, Talkeetna’s dark winter skies can be a good base when skies are clear and aurora activity is strong. Once you’re hungry, grab some friends and visit Homestead Kitchen for some traditional rustic options like burgers and flatbreads. Then grab a craft beer at Denali Brewpub in their rustic setting.
Homer
Found on the Kenai Peninsula, Homer is famous for its gorgeous views of Kachemak Bay, the Homer Spit, and distant volcanoes. Here’s a perfect spot for those hoping to see wildlife and enjoy other outdoor activities, like hiking and fishing. Across the bay, Kachemak Bay State Park is reached by water taxi or air taxi and offers views of the mountains and the ocean. Or head to Bishop’s Beach, which is dog-friendly, and enjoy the soft sand with your four-legged best friend. After experiencing the beautiful scenery of Homer, grab some dinner at the Twisted Goat and dig into some comfort food, including pizza, fish and chips, and burgers. On a nice day, visitors won’t want to miss a local favorite, Water Rudders, which offers a beautiful view from its patio.
Seward
Located about 120 miles south of Anchorage, Seward is a scenic port town at the head of Resurrection Bay. It’s loved for its beautiful views of the mountains, marine wildlife, and glaciers, and it serves as a gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park. Here, visitors can take a hike, join in on ranger-guided tours, kayak, and so much more. For those wanting an aerial view, Seward Helicopter Tours offers flights over glaciers and other beautiful sites. For those looking to camp, Waterfront Park offers RV and tent sites with views you can’t beat. After enjoying sightseeing, grab some seafood or steak at Ray’s Waterfront with a wood-paneled dining room overlooking the marina and mountains. Or get some comfort food at The Highliner Restaurant, where the menu includes crab cakes and fish tacos, just to name a few.
Ketchikan
Ketchikan is located on Revillagigedo Island in Alaska’s Tongass National Forest, known for its rich native culture, totem poles, and salmon fishing. The town is a popular cruise ship destination and is only accessible by boat or plane. Here, visitors can enjoy wildlife viewing, especially in the summer months. For a beautiful site, look into Misty Fjords National Monument and see sheer granite cliffs, towering 3,000-foot rock walls, deep saltwater fjords, and waterfalls within Tongass National Forest. Locals and visitors enjoy spending time at Creek Street, a historic boardwalk built on pilings over the creek, which is now filled with shops, cafes, and galleries. Grab a bite to eat at The Alaska Fish House with beautiful views out the window and live music. Or order crab and seafood at Ketchikan Crab & Go, a seasonal spot at Salmon Landing that caters to the cruise-season crowd.
Valdez
Found in Southcentral Alaska, Valdez is known for its stunning mountain views, water scenery, and being the southern terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. This former Gold Rush town is a popular destination for fishing, glacier tours, and wildlife viewing, and is accessible via the Richardson Highway from Anchorage and Fairbanks. For shore views of icebergs and the face of Valdez Glacier, head to Glacier View Park at the end of Airport Road. For an easy family-friendly outing near town, try Dock Point Trail, a short coastal loop with ocean and Duck Flats views. In summer, The Potato serves handmade comfort food and beer or wine from its harbor-view location in Valdez. Or get some pizza or fish and chips at The Fat Mermaid. It has a laid-back setting and views of the marina.
Wrangell
Wrangell is found in Southeast Alaska, located on Wrangell Island in the Inside Passage, and is known for its Tlingit culture, variety of wildlife, and access to the Stikine River. This is one of Alaska’s oldest towns and offers plenty of outdoor activities like hiking, glacier exploration, and fishing, and is only accessible by air or the Alaska Marine Highway. Anan Wildlife Observatory is a must-visit to see bears, both black and brown, who call it home. You’ll have to take a boat or a floatplane to get there. Access the Stikine River from Wrangell for more wildlife viewing. For food, try Filipino, Thai, sushi, and other Asian dishes at Michelle’s Taste of Asia, a casual, family-run restaurant. Or grab pizza at Hungry Beaver Pizza and Marine Bar by Wrangell’s Inner Harbor.
These eight towns show a side of Alaska that operates at a different pace from the state’s most visited destinations. The downtowns are small, the history runs deep, and the wildlife has a way of showing up whether you plan for it or not.
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