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Jimmy Carter shaped modern Alaska in profound, lasting ways

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Jimmy Carter shaped modern Alaska in profound, lasting ways


They burned him in effigy in Fairbanks. At the state fair dunk tank, they fired baseballs at pictures of him and the Ayatollah. But President Jimmy Carter shaped Alaska’s future so effectively that today, 44 years after passage of the epic conservation law that stirred pickets and protests, many Alaskans may wonder what the fuss was all about.

Alaska without the national parks and ever-wild landscapes that make it a world-famous travel destination? Unimaginable.

Jimmy Carter, who died Sunday at age 100, was the only U.S. president to hang a map of Alaska on the wall of the Oval Office. Judging by what he wrote about his later trips north — often just to fish, hike and birdwatch in the wilderness — it can probably be said that he was not only the president with the biggest impact on Alaska but also the one with the deepest love for the state.

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The law that Carter called his greatest domestic achievement, and the source of so much controversy here, was the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, or ANILCA, which Carter signed into law on Dec. 2, 1980, as one of the last acts of his presidency. The law doubled the size of the national park and refuge systems, protected 25 wild rivers and classified 56 million acres of Alaska as wilderness. It was also the basis for federal protection of rural subsistence hunting and fishing.

The lock-up law would be the ruin of Alaska — so said the dominant voices of Alaska politics and business. They fought the proposed measure for a decade, arguing that it would close off mining, oil drilling, logging and other economic opportunities. The protest howls were loudest in 1978, when the president unilaterally created 55 million acres of national monuments in Alaska because Congress had thus far failed to act.

For the national environmental movement cresting in the 1970s, on the other hand, Carter fit the moment. Officials in his own administration shook their heads at the president’s unusual level of engagement with small details of the Alaska bill. Insider accounts of those years say Carter’s love for the natural world was driven above all by the Sunday school piety that later shaped the good deeds for which his ex-presidency became known.

“I have never been happier, more exhilarated, at peace, rested, inspired, and aware of the grandeur of the universe and the greatness of God than when I find myself in a natural setting not much changed from the way He made it,” Carter wrote in his 1988 book about his experiences in nature, “An Outdoor Journal.” The book includes a chapter on Alaska.

• • •

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Jimmy Carter entered the White House at the moment in history when Congress was carving up Alaska’s vast federal lands, a process that included the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (1971) and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline authorization (1973). The Native claims act gave Congress until 1978 to do something about conservation lands in Alaska.

Headlines from those years featured the once-familiar names of politicians now passing into history books — Mo Udall, John Seiberling, Scoop Jackson, and the state’s conservation-minded Republican governor, Jay Hammond, along with its fractious congressional delegation: Ted Stevens, Mike Gravel, Don Young. All gone now.

Historian Stephen Haycox, in his book “Battleground Alaska,” describes how the myth of Alaska unanimity was undermined at congressional hearings in Alaska in 1977, when half the people who showed up in Anchorage and Fairbanks testified in support of preserving wilderness. Stevens and Young dismissed those conservation advocates as “not real Alaskans” — a challenge to political legitimacy no longer flung around the 49th state with the same vigor, after four decades of in-migration and demographic shifts.

Anger at Carter nevertheless reached its peak here in 1978, when the president invoked the Antiquities Act to create national monuments in Alaska. Carter called it a placeholder move, shielding land from development until Congress passed permanent protection. Protesters called it tyranny. Government rangers showed up in a few rural communities and were shunned. Loggers and mining claim holders and hunting guides studied the maps with dismay. Politicians ridiculed the idea that Alaska’s wilderness was the kind of antiquity meant to be protected by the 1906 law. The national monument declaration was deemed the ultimate “federal overreach.”

But Carter’s strategy, developed with his Interior secretary, former Idaho Gov. Cecil Andrus, forced Congress back to work. Despite the ear-burning rhetoric, Alaska’s leading Republicans, Stevens and Hammond, worked on the inside to find a compromise rather than get run over.

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Stuart Eizenstat, Carter’s chief domestic adviser, has described a meeting where Stevens came to the White House to argue about a proposed park boundary. Carter unrolled detailed maps on the Oval Office floor and, on his hands and knees, pointed out how the watershed in question didn’t flow the way Stevens thought.

By the summer of 1980, the House had passed a strong bill backed by conservationists, while a compromise bill supported by Stevens had passed the Senate. The two sides were still far apart.

One night that July, Carter landed in Anchorage on Air Force One, on his way back from meetings in Japan. Hammond and the director of his sportfish division had arranged a quick fishing trip for the president. In his diary, Carter described how the trout streams were blown out by rain so they flew in a helicopter to fish grayling in a lake and its outlet. He was thrilled that a tiny “Irresistible” fly he tied himself outfished the Alaska guides, who gathered around to see what he was using.

Four months later, Ronald Reagan clobbered Carter in the presidential election. The nation’s swing to the right settled the fate of ANILCA. The House in its lame-duck session accepted the Senate version of the bill, so Carter could sign the finished product before he left office.

The new law protected 104 million acres of Alaska in various conservation categories — nearly a third of the state.

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In the years to come, the law’s evolving set of rules would continue to generate headlines in Alaska over cultural touchstones — everything from the fishwheel of Katie John to the bulldozer of Papa Pilgrim.

Even so, the overarching bitterness of the 1970s appears to have faded among the general public. For one thing, few of Alaska’s current residents have personal memories of the fight. The state Department of Labor recently ran a check to see how many current Permanent Fund dividend applicants also applied as adults in 1982, the first year of the dividend program. The answer: less than 12%.

Moreover, a booming tourism industry has transformed Alaska, with 2.5 million visitors spending nearly $3 billion here in 2019, the last pre-pandemic year, according to the Alaska Travel Industry Association.

The town of Seward was the first to execute a political turnaround, quickly warming to the draw of their new neighbor, Kenai Fjords National Park. By 1990, the summer sugar-high of tourist dollars had so transformed the town that the newly arrived chamber of commerce director, asked why Seward old-timers once opposed the national park, guessed that the naysayers must have been “people who have the habit of being opposed to development of all kinds” — unwittingly reversing Don Young’s old complaint about posy-sniffing environmentalists.

“Tourists now bring in more wealth to the state than fishing or timber,” Carter said in 2000, when he visited Anchorage for ANILCA’s 20-year commemoration. But he cautioned against over-tourism: The visitors weren’t coming here to see the backs of the necks of other tourists filing off cruise ships. “They come to find a different form of human pleasure and enjoyment — solitude, beauty, and sights that are not available to a Georgian or to a person from New Mexico or Maine or Ohio or Texas.”

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On that same visit, Carter made a pitch for protecting the coastal plain of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge from oil development. It was the biggest piece of unfinished ANILCA business, and still politically hot. The pitch prompted Gov. Tony Knowles, a fellow Democrat, to snub the former president during that visit.

The ANWR coastal plain was finally pried open to oil leasing during the Trump administration. But the long-ballyhooed oil rush has failed to materialize so far, in the face of continued opposition and rising global concerns over burning and tapping new sources of fossil fuels.

Even the dual federal-state management of subsistence fish and game, once deemed impossible and unsustainable, has endured despite decades of lawsuits and political initiatives.

• • •

To be sure, some conflicts around Carter’s legislative legacy remain. The state, for example, has pushed to extend its predator control programs into the national preserves created by ANILCA.

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A particularly hard knot to untie has been the proposed road through Izembek National Wildlife Refuge. Conservationists argue that the isthmus of land between the isolated communities of King Cove and Cold Bay was set aside as wilderness under ANILCA, and that no president can trade it away for a road corridor.

In 2022, when a federal court temporarily upheld a Trump-era land swap to allow the road, Carter himself took the extraordinary step — as a 97-year-old ex-president — of jumping into the appeal, filing an amicus brief on his own behalf.

“My name is Jimmy Carter,” he wrote to the appeals court. “In my lifetime, I have been a farmer, a naval officer, a Sunday school teacher, an outdoorsman, a democracy activist, a builder, governor of Georgia and recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize. And from 1977 to 1981, I had the privilege of serving as the 39th president of the United States.”

Carter argued that the bill he signed into law struck a final balance between conservation and development. Congress did not intend for future administrations to re-balance those concerns according to their own changing priorities. There is no “get out of ANILCA free” pass, he said.

The case was dismissed when the Biden administration dropped the old road plan, leaving the legal question unresolved. Discussions over the road continue.

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Most of Carter’s trips back to Alaska after his presidency were not political. One time he traveled with his wife, Rosalynn, to stand in the midst of a vast caribou herd on the Arctic coastal plain. He especially relished a 1985 trip with his 9-year-old grandson. They spent a week in the Iliamna Lake region at a fishing lodge.

In the Alaska chapter of “An Outdoor Journal,” the former president recalled campfire conversations on that trip with Alaskans worried about changes to their way of life. He also devoted a dozen paragraphs to the hooking, chasing and landing of a 12-pound rainbow on a tiny #10 yellow stonefly nymph.

The book ends with a return to Carter’s family cabin and a description of the cycles of nature in the mountains of north Georgia. In the face of his own mortality, Carter wrote, he found reassurance there in “God’s miraculous creation” and the words of Ecclesiastes:

“A generation goes and a generation comes, But the earth remains forever.”

Former Anchorage Daily News reporter Tom Kizzia is the author of “Cold Mountain Path,” “Pilgrim’s Wilderness” and “The Wake of the Unseen Object.”

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• • •

Read more:

Jimmy Carter, the 39th US president, has died at 100

11 facts about Jimmy Carter that may surprise you

Jimmy Carter: Many evolutions for a centenarian ‘citizen of the world’

Jimmy Carter, a man of implacable faith, lived his values

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His work after the White House made Jimmy Carter a standout





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Alaska

Writer receives award for contributions to Alaska history | Homer News

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Scientists Finally Solved a 620-Mile Geological Mystery Hidden Beneath Alaska

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Scientists Finally Solved a 620-Mile Geological Mystery Hidden Beneath Alaska


For decades, geologists have been puzzled by the Denali Fault, a sprawling 620-mile geological feature in Alaska. This massive strike-slip fault system, where tectonic plates slide past each other horizontally, has long hinted at a deeper story—one that shaped North America’s western edge over millions of years. Recent research has finally uncovered the truth behind this mysterious fault, revealing that three distant geological sites, once thought to be separate, were part of a unified suture zone that fused two ancient landmasses into the North American plate.

Led by Sean Regan of the University of Alaska Fairbanks, this study provides groundbreaking insights into the tectonic forces that tore these regions apart over time. Using cutting-edge analysis and a wealth of geological evidence, the team has pieced together a story of massive tectonic shifts, inverted metamorphism, and the power of Earth’s dynamic crust.

A Unified Geological History Revealed

The Denali Fault spans over 1,200 miles, cutting across Alaska and Canada’s Yukon Territory. Its geological complexity has made it a focal point for scientists seeking to understand the processes that shaped North America’s lithosphere. However, the mystery of three specific sites—Clearwater Mountains in Alaska, Kluane Lake in the Yukon, and the Coast Mountains near Juneau—remained unsolved. Were these regions formed independently, or did they share a common origin?

Sean Regan and his team’s research revealed that these sites were once part of a single terminal suture zone, the location where two tectonic plates collided and fused together. This zone, formed between 72 and 56 million years ago, marked the final integration of the Wrangellia Composite Terrane—an ancient oceanic plate—into North America. Over millions of years, tectonic forces caused horizontal movement along the fault, tearing the suture zone apart and scattering its fragments across hundreds of miles.

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“Our understanding of lithospheric growth along the western margin of North America is becoming clearer,” Regan explained. “A big part of that is related to reconstructing strike-slip faults such as the Denali Fault.”

The Map Above Shows The Tectonic Plates That Influence Alaska’s Southeastern Fault Systems.
The map above shows the tectonic plates that influence Alaska’s southeastern fault systems. The Pacific Plate is actively subducting (sliding under) the North American Plate at a rate of about 2 inches per year. The Yakutat block (labeled YAK) prevents the Pacific Plate from subducting smoothly, causing the Wrangell Subplate to break off the North American Plate and rotate counterclockwise. The Denali and Totschunda Faults are located along the northeastern edge of the Wrangell Subplate. Image courtesy of the USGS

The Key Role of Inverted Metamorphism

One of the most striking pieces of evidence connecting these sites is the phenomenon of inverted metamorphism. Typically, rocks formed under higher temperatures and pressures are found deeper in the Earth’s crust, while those formed under lower conditions are closer to the surface. However, in these regions, the order is reversed—rocks formed at greater depths are found above those formed under less extreme conditions.

Regan noted: “We showed that each of these three independent inverted metamorphic belts formed at the same time under similar conditions. Not only are they the same age, but they all behaved in a similar fashion.”

By analyzing monazite, a mineral rich in rare earth elements, Regan’s team traced the geological evolution of rocks at each site. Monazite’s unique properties allowed the researchers to track changes in temperature and pressure over time, further confirming the shared history of these regions.

The Denali Fault’s Impact on North America

The Denali Fault’s significance extends beyond its geological intricacies. As a major strike-slip fault, it remains active and capable of generating powerful earthquakes. Understanding its history provides critical insights into the tectonic forces that continue to shape Alaska’s landscape today.

The fault also serves as a natural laboratory for studying plate tectonics. Its role in the accretion of the Wrangellia Composite Terrane illustrates the processes by which distant landmasses are integrated into larger continental plates. These insights are invaluable for reconstructing Earth’s tectonic history and understanding how continents evolve over time.

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Decades in the Making

This breakthrough builds on decades of geological research. A 1993 study by scientists at the University of Alberta and the University of British Columbia first suggested similarities between the Denali Fault sites but stopped short of identifying them as a unified structure.

“It was amazing to me that the 1993 paper hadn’t caught more attention back in the day,” Regan remarked. “I had this paper hung up on my wall for the last four years because I thought it was really ahead of its time.”

Regan’s work combines modern techniques with earlier observations to provide a more complete picture of the fault’s history. By piecing together data from multiple regions, the team has connected the dots to reveal the larger tectonic story.

Implications for Geological Science

The Denali Fault study has significant implications for our understanding of plate tectonics and lithospheric growth. By identifying the suture zone that joined the Wrangellia Composite Terrane to North America, the research sheds light on the processes that create and reshape continents.

This work also underscores the importance of collaboration and interdisciplinary research in solving complex geological puzzles. By integrating field observations, mineral analysis, and tectonic reconstructions, Regan and his team have provided a model for studying other fault systems around the world.

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“The dots don’t really get connected until you can reconstruct deformation on the Denali Fault,” Regan explained. This study serves as a reminder of the dynamic nature of Earth’s crust and the immense forces at work beneath our feet.

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Opinion: 25 gallons of blood — one Alaskan’s extraordinary quest

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Opinion: 25 gallons of blood — one Alaskan’s extraordinary quest


The first time I gave blood in Alaska was at a bloodmobile parked at Merrill Field. The staff was cheerful and efficient. The other donors joked and bantered, racing each other to fill their pint bags.

When I’d filled mine, I accepted a juice box and chatted while I completed the waiting period. That’s when a staffer mentioned a woman who’d given 20 gallons of blood. I stopped mid-sip, certain I’d heard wrong. “Twenty gallons?” “That’s right,” was the reply, “you do the math.”

I did. Two pints to a quart, times four quarts to a gallon, times twenty gallons was 160 pints. You can only donate approximately every two months. Assuming you donated like a Swiss watch, that was 320 months — over 26 years of clockwork bloodletting.

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Who would do that? Why? What kept her going through all the punctures and drainings?

I called the Blood Bank. They wouldn’t give a name, but they knew exactly who I was asking about. At my persistence, they agreed to call “the 20-gallon lady” and ask if I could contact her. And so, I met Eva Eckmann.

She stepped into the coffee shop. At 67, Eva was slim and athletic with a quick, wry smile, and glacier blue eyes. She was straightforward and laughed easily. Eva was born and grew up in Germany but came to Alaska in 1961 when she was 26, with her husband and a 7-month-old baby. She and her husband built a business, and two other children were born and raised in The Last Frontier.

I tried but Eva wouldn’t let me glorify her story. She first donated in 1971 after a friend of hers gave and she thought, “Well, geez, I can do that.” In response to my probing, she explained, “I felt that this was something I could do to help somebody else out who needs this gift.”

I thought of 160 people walking around with Eva’s gift: young people falling in love, marrying, having kids; moms and dads going to work, playing with their kids, helping them with homework; kids celebrating birthdays and soccer wins, growing up to make discoveries; elders ripe with a fine, fermented view of the world. All that living with Eva’s blood pumping through it.

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Why so many times over so many years? Eva’s no-nonsense reply: “People are very friendly; you’re pampered at the Blood Bank. I’m not scared of needles. So there was really nothing that kept me from not repeating it.” She added, “I think I also have a tendency, that once I start something, I stick with it.”

“Do you feel now like you have to go?” I asked.

“Yes. I’m racing against the clock. Because 72 years is the age cut off for donating, so I thought, ‘Well I at least can get to 25 gallons!’”

“Eva, what makes you want to go for such a goal?” I asked. Her tone became serious, “For one thing, blood donations are needed more now than even 20 years ago — because of medical advances and more illnesses.”

There must be more, I thought — all those pricks and pints and years. “Has anyone in your immediate family ever had a need for blood?”

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“No,” she said.

“Then why do you care? These are strangers.”

“That’s all right. They need other people’s care just as much as your own family does.”

At the end of our conversation, I asked Eva if she had any questions for me. There was just one. “Well, are you going to be a continuous donor now?”

What could I say? “Yes.”

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Because of Eva, I went back to the Blood Bank. It was like a potlatch — sharing cookies, juice, and conversations with the staff and other donors. There was a sense of community.

Some months later I called Eva to see about getting together for lunch. When I asked her how she was, she answered without embellishment, “Not too good. I was having stomach aches, and the doctors say I have pancreatic cancer.” One of Eva’s first questions for the doctors was whether that would prevent her from donating blood. It did.

The cancer spread quickly. When I called again about lunch, Eva apologized, “I would like very much to see you, but I’m afraid lunch isn’t possible. I can’t keep food down, you see.”

“Oh, Eva,” was all I could manage through my tears.

“It’s not so bad,” she said, “my family is all here. My son flew in with his family, and my daughter has been helping take care of me.”

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“It must be so difficult,” I choked.

There was a short silence before Eva replied, “Yes, it is difficult. But it is all very wonderful and precious, too.”

Eva died not long after that. The church where she’d taught Sunday school for 30 years was filled to overflowing, as were all the hearts in it. I thought of how Eva found wonder and preciousness even in the last days of her life. I silently prayed I might be worthy of Eva’s too brief friendship and all her grace.

Eva ran out of time before she made her goal of 25 gallons of giving. So, when I returned to the Blood Bank, I thought, “This pint’s for you, Eva.”

January is National Blood Donor month. Go to the Anchorage Blood Bank. Tell ‘em Eva sent you. Help her make 25 gallons—because, geez, you can do that.

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The views expressed here are the writer’s and are not necessarily endorsed by the Anchorage Daily News, which welcomes a broad range of viewpoints. To submit a piece for consideration, email commentary(at)adn.com. Send submissions shorter than 200 words to letters@adn.com or click here to submit via any web browser. Read our full guidelines for letters and commentaries here.





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