Alaska
I've Visited All 63 U.S. National Parks — and This 8.4-million Oasis Is the Most Peaceful
“What number is this for you?” a man asked the couple waiting in the cramped office, his casual tone laced with curiosity.
“56,” the woman replied, her voice steady, confident.
“And you?”
“We’re at 59,” the man said with a nod as if passing an unspoken baton.
They didn’t turn to me or the other solo traveler pacing near the doorway. They didn’t need to. We all understood the language. These numbers weren’t random; they were a measure of something bigger — a quiet badge of honor among national park chasers.
To most people, 56, 59, or even 63 wouldn’t mean a thing. But for those of us who’ve fallen in love with the challenge of visiting all the U.S. national parks, those numbers carry weight. They signify journeys taken, mountains climbed, and deserts crossed.
I glanced at the floor, trying to keep my excitement at bay. I was here to visit the last park on my list — all solo — and hit the magic number: 63.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
There are more than 400 National Park Service sites in the U.S., but just 63 carry the title “national park.” They range from the Great Smoky Mountains — the most-visited park, which drew more than 13 million people in 2023 — to the stark solitude of Gates of the Arctic — the least-frequented on the list, with just 11,045 visitors in the same period.
It’s easy to see why Gates of the Arctic holds that distinction. Covering more than 8.4 million acres, all entirely above the Arctic Circle, there are no roads or trails — nothing to guide you but your determination. This park is not a place travelers stumble upon; it’s a place they must seek out.
While many visitors reach Gates of the Arctic through Fairbanks or Bettles — both short flights from Anchorage — I started my adventure in Kotzebue, a coastal town north of the Arctic Circle and another gateway to Alaska’s remote northern parks. After landing on a commercial flight from Anchorage, I walked the short distance to a short-term rental and awaited word from Golden Eagle Outfitters, the flight-seeing and air-taxi service that would take me into the Brooks Range.
Weather delays are common here, so there are no set flight times. There’s just a range of dates the outfitters recommend being in town, and they ask that you periodically check in until the weather is favorable. I spent the first day exploring the quiet streets of Kotzebue and learning about traditional Iñupiaq culture at the Northwest Arctic Heritage Center. Finally, the text came: The skies had cleared. It was time to go.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
At the hangar, I joined five other travelers and our pilot for the flight into the wilderness. Bush planes are the lifeline of the Arctic, and as we took off, I couldn’t help but marvel as the landscape beneath us appeared like a living map — clear, bright blue rivers snaking through valleys, jagged peaks surrounding us, and tundra showing the vibrant first hues of autumn.
When the plane touched down on a gravel bar near the Ambler River — one of six designated wild rivers in the park — the silence was almost overwhelming: just the faint sound of water beside me and the crunch of rocks under my hiking boots.
I was here for a day trip, an experience that cost $1,750 — a steep price, but one that was worth every penny as I stepped into a world so untouched, it felt sacred. For those with the time and resources, multiday guided trips offer deeper exploration through hiking, rafting, fishing, and backpacking.
I walked along the river. The water was so clear and blue that I could see every pebble on the riverbed, and I couldn’t help but cry. Thinking of the journey that brought me here — the 63rd national park I’d visited solo — I felt at peace.
Gates of the Arctic isn’t just a place on a park checklist; it’s a reminder of how fragile and rare untouched wilderness is. The journey here stripped away modern life’s noise, distractions, and conveniences, leaving me with nothing but the raw beauty of the wild — and myself.
I didn’t just reach my final park goal in the stillness of Gates of the Arctic; I found a version of myself I hadn’t seen in a long time.
Where to Stay
There are no designated campsites or lodging within the park. Still, backcountry camping and backpacking are options for very experienced travelers or those on a trip with a guided outfitter.
On a day trip, most visitors will fly into the park from the gateway cities. Fairbanks is the largest and offers the most options, but it is also further from the park. Travelers can also find hotels, wilderness lodges, and bed-and-breakfasts in Coldfoot, Bettles, and Kotzebue.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
How to Get There
There are no roads or trails into the park, but visitors can fly on chartered bush planes from multiple gateways, the most popular being from Fairbanks, Bettles, Coldfoot, or Kotzebue. Very experienced and prepared travelers can also opt to hike five miles from the gravel Dalton Highway to the park near Coldfoot.
Best Time to Visit
Most travelers will want to visit between July and mid-August, when days are long, the snow has melted, and temperatures are warmer. Mid-August to mid-September will bring fall colors, cooler temperatures, and more flight availability.
Alaska
Governor Dunleavy Names Stephen Cox his new Counsel to the Governor – Mike Dunleavy
Governor Mike Dunleavy today announced the appointment of Stephen Cox as his new Counsel to the Governor. The appointment comes after the legislature’s decision to not confirm him as attorney general, despite his extensive legal and public policy experience and proven record of defending Alaska’s interests both at home and on the national level. Cox’s responsibilities will be to advise Governor Dunleavy on a wide range of legal, regulatory, and constitutional matters affecting the State of Alaska.
Governor Dunleavy also appointed Cori Mills acting attorney general for the Alaska Department of Law. Mills has been with the department for 14 years and most recently served as deputy attorney general.
“Stephen Cox has a strong understanding of Alaska law and the challenges facing our state,” said Governor Dunleavy. “His experience, professionalism, and commitment to public service make him a valuable asset as Counsel to the Governor. I look forward to working with Stephen as we continue advancing policies that strengthen Alaska’s economy, uphold the rule of law, and serve the people of our state.”
As Counsel to the Governor, Cox will continue to work closely with the Department of Law and other executive branch departments to provide counsel on policy initiatives, legislation, and executive actions.
“I am honored to serve Governor Dunleavy and the people of Alaska in this new role,” said Stephen Cox. “I look forward to continue supporting the administration’s efforts to promote responsible resource development, governance and opportunities for Alaskans across the state.”
Cox assumes his new role effective today.
Alaska
Why Juneau should be on every Alaska traveler’s bucket list
Juneau blends towering glaciers, the Tongass National Forest and rich Indigenous culture.
How cruise tourism could help and hurt Alaska’s environment
Although Alaskans rely on revenue tourism cruise ships bring in, some locals are raising concerns on the impact of tourism on Alaska’s environment.
Juneau, Alaska, is the only U.S. state capital not accessible by road — a remoteness that adds to its magic and appeal.
Nestled between mountains, rainforest, and the waters of the Inside Passage, Juneau combines Alaska Native heritage, Gold Rush history, and some of the state’s most spectacular scenery.
Visitors can watch humpback whales surface offshore, ride a tram above downtown, stand face-to-face with or even on Mendenhall Glacier, a river of ice flowing from the vast Juneau Icefield. Surrounded by the Tongass National Forest — the world’s largest temperate rainforest — Juneau offers a quintessential Alaska experience where nature feels immense, and adventure begins just minutes from the cruise dock.
Why Juneau matters
Long before prospectors arrived in search of gold, the area now known as Juneau was home to the Áak’w Kwáan, whose name for this place — Áakʼw, often translated as “little lake” — reflects a deep connection to the surrounding land and water.
Russia later expanded into Alaska through the fur trade, bringing Orthodox missionaries, new trade networks, and profound cultural change to Indigenous communities across the region. Though Juneau rose to prominence during the Gold Rush and became the territorial capital after the United States purchased Alaska in 1867, the city still bears traces of both worlds.
As the nation approaches its 250th anniversary, Juneau offers visitors a richer understanding of America’s layered history — one that’s shaped by Native stewardship, Russian influence, and the enduring resilience of southeast Alaska’s Indigenous peoples.
What to see today
The star attraction is Mendenhall Glacier, a 13.6-mile-long glacier that descends from the Juneau Icefield into a turquoise lake.
Easy trails lead to roaring Nugget Falls, while boardwalks along Steep Creek offer chances to spot spawning salmon and black bears. Back downtown, colorful floatplanes skim the harbor and the Mount Roberts Tramway lifts visitors above the city for sweeping views of Gastineau Channel and the surrounding mountains.
Ask a local
One of Juneau’s most whimsical attractions is Glacier Gardens Rainforest Adventure, tucked into the Tongass rainforest just outside downtown.
Locals and visitors alike love the upside-down trees known as “Flower Towers” — massive spruce trunks planted root-side up, bursting with colorful blooms. The display is a unique (and accidental) creation of master gardener Steve Bowhay.
It’s an eccentric sight that feels uniquely Alaskan, blending lush rainforest scenery with a touch of horticultural imagination.
Plan your visit
Alaska
Haines Quick Shop reopens after burning down in 2024
Last Friday evening in Haines, there was only one place to be: The brand new Quick Shop, a shiny new building stocked with everything from ice cream and gun safes to an entire row of Xtratuf boots.
It seemed that much of town was packed into the building on the Haines’ waterfront — the store had just reopened after burning down more than a year ago.
The October 2024 fire destroyed a string of apartments and businesses including the convenience, liquor and sporting goods shop known collectively as the Quick Shop.
“It’s a big day for our town,” Haines Mayor Tom Morphet shouted from the checkout line that stretched through the store.
Minutes after opening, some 50 people were already in line, with dozens more milling about. Many kids’ arms were piled high with goodies.
Further back in the store, owner Mike Ward was busy scanning toilet paper amid the chaos. In between greeting customers, and accepting their congratulations, he said it’s been a long road to get here.
“It’s a relief to finally be open,” Ward said. “But we got a lot of work ahead of us, so it’s not that much of a relief.”
Ward said he aims to have the store fully stocked and in order by the fire’s two-year anniversary on Oct. 5. He added that he rebuilt as quickly as possible because he had heard a larger convenience chain was thinking about moving into Haines.
“So that’s one of the major reasons why I got aggressive, right?” he said. “I didn’t even think about taking the money.”
But the money part hasn’t been easy. Ward had insurance, but his policy didn’t come close to covering rebuilding costs – or the $1.8 million in inventory that also went up in flames.
“I got hosed,” he said. “I took a $2.5 million loss.”
The loss was felt in the community, too. Haines’ grocery stores close by 8 p.m. most days, and even earlier on Sundays. The Quick Shop is open until midnight.
“I feel like not having anywhere to get food late at night is pretty hard for people. So I feel like everyone’s pretty excited to have it back,” said local Ryan Irvin, who worked on the crew that built the facility.
He added that it’s cool – and somewhat novel – for the community to have a space that was actually built for its purpose.
“We’re always retrofitting old buildings, making them work. But this is actually designed for what we’re doing, what Mike’s doing, rather,” Irvin said.
Morphet, the mayor, echoed that point. He said the new store is a testament to Ward’s faith in Haines’ capacity to keep it open.
“We’re only 2,000, 2,500 people here, so it’s kind of a shot in the arm to town morale,” Morphet said. “People like the town to have nice stuff, and this is beautiful.”
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