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A road trip route through Mississippi with plenty of storied stops

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A road trip route through Mississippi with plenty of storied stops


Road trip route through northeast Mississippi, from Corinth to Starkville

Illustration by Brainstorm

Northeastern Mississippi is a crossroads and has, over centuries, been formed by that distinction. Corinth, in the far north of the state, came into being in the 1850s when the survey lines for two major railroads intersected, creating a boom town. Known as the Crossroads of the South, it would become one of the most contested spots during the Civil War, as the railroad to which it owed its beginnings became its greatest liability. Today, several attractions, including the Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center, tell the story of the city and its role in the war.

About an hour south of Corinth lies the town of Tupelo, where Appalachia and the Delta converge, creating a unique cultural crossroads. The town’s favorite son, Elvis Presley, is among the most well-known of the region’s iconic trailblazers. His life and work are showcased at his birthplace and recounted at stops all over town.

Along the entirety of the route from Corinth through Tupelo and on to the vibrant college town Starkville, home to Mississippi State and the Ulysses S. Grant Presidential Library, travelers will appreciate the region’s natural beauty. Here, the watery world of swampy wetlands and still bayous meet ridges of hickory, ash, and maple. Enchanting pine forests soar skyward, and wildflowers—black-eyed Susan, purple coneflower, New England aster—blanket intermittent prairies.

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• • •

Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center
Part of the Shiloh National Military Park, this hilltop facility tells the story of the military struggle for control of the railroad junction in Corinth, regarded as the crossroads of the Confederacy. Particularly poignant are multimedia presentations and artifacts that spotlight the initial opposition to secession in this part of Mississippi, the impact of wounded and ill soldiers on the town, and the creation of the Corinth Contraband Camp, where some 6,000 African Americans freed from slavery established a community and took the first steps to becoming citizens.

Borroum’s Drug Store and Soda Fountain
Established in 1865 by Dr. Andrew Jackson Bourroum, this beloved gathering place on the square in Corinth continues to serve ice cream sodas and shakes, old-fashioned Cokes, and even cherry phosphates—as it has since installing the art deco bar in the late 1930s. Also on the menu is the slugburger, a sandwich developed in Corinth during the Depression that features a thin patty of ground pork, soy flour, and spices deep fried and served on a hamburger bun with mustard, pickles, and onions. Originally sold for a nickel (called a “slug”), today the local specialty remains a bargain at $2.95 (which includes a bag of chips).

Borroum’s Drug Store

Dilworth’s Tamales
Another Mississippi staple, hot tamales (thought to have been introduced by Mexican migrants working the cotton fields of the Delta in the early 20th century), have been served up at this drive-thru for more than 60 years. Available in mild or hot, the tamales feature cornmeal, ground beef, and spices wrapped in parchment paper, rolled into thin bundles just bigger than a pencil, and simmered. Order half a dozen for a snack (a steal at $2.90) with an ice-cold lemonade.

Elvis Presley Birthplace
The two-room shotgun house where the King of Rock ’n’ Roll was born on January 8, 1935, is the centerpiece of this Tupelo attraction. Built by his father, Vernon, with $180 of materials, the house, featuring a bedroom and kitchen, is furnished with period furniture, but don’t miss the 15-minute multimedia production in the relocated First Assembly of God Church Elvis regularly attended as a boy. Take a seat in a worn pew and allow wraparound screens and the sound of gospel standards to transport you to a typical 1940s evening service, where Elvis fell in love with music.

Elvis Presley Birthplace

Pretenders to the Throne
Get all shook up at the Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Competition, the undeniable highlight of the annual Tupelo Elvis Festival on June 6­–9.

Tupelo Hardware Company
In January 1946, Gladys Presley brought Elvis to this longstanding family-owned store in downtown Tupelo to pick out a birthday present. Though he had his heart set on a .22 rifle (or failing that, a bike), his mother convinced him to take the guitar, which she purchased for $7.75. An X marks the spot where Elvis first strummed a chord. The venerable store still sells guitars, as well as all manner of hardware, and souvenirs from branded tees and hats to toys.

Hotel Tupelo
Just a few blocks from Tupelo Hardware, this sleek boutique hotel makes for the perfect home base from which to explore the area. The visitors center, just steps away, offers a range of itineraries for Elvis enthusiasts (e.g., Eat Like a King—if you dare) and non-fans alike, and the attentive hotel staff are excellent sources of information, as well. Opened in 2022, the hotel took the prize for Lodging of the Year last fall at the Mississippi Tourism Awards, and its restaurant, Jobos, a hopping surf-and-turf joint with Southern flair and the best bar in town, draws raves from both critics and guests.

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Hotel Tupelo

Courtesy Tupelo CVB

Queen’s Reward Meadery
Former kindergarten teacher Jeri Carter began making wine at home as a hobby but turned to honey as the main fermentable when local grapes disappointed her. After attending the country’s first mead-makers conference in 2016 and taking home medals at a competition later that year, Carter was bitten—well, stung—by the mead bug. In May 2018, she and her husband opened for business. Stop in for a tasting—and a crash course in the production and history of the oldest alcoholic beverage in the world—as well as bottles of the award-winning Scarlet Noir and the fan favorite Rubee, a semi-sweet mead with notes of cranberry and orange.

Raising a toast at Tupelo Meadery

Courtesy Tupelo CVB

Connie’s Chicken
Opened in 1978, this Tupelo institution is packed with patrons soon after the doors open at 6:00 every morning (save Sunday). As you’d expect, the chicken is super crispy and the biscuits fluffy and piping hot. Enjoy the duo in an open-faced sandwich blanketed in classic white country gravy. And be sure to order a half dozen of the heralded blueberry doughnuts; deliciously dense little cakes served warm and sticky, they’re the undeniable pièce de résistance of this counter-service restaurant.

Hotel Chester
Built in 1925, this historic hotel in the heart of downtown Starkville’s Old Main District has enjoyed many incarnations and extensive renovations and restorations in its near-century-long run. Perhaps most memorably, television personality Gordon Ramsey brought his reality show, Hotel Hell, to the property several years ago and oversaw a rehauling of several guest suites. Book a night in one of the beautifully redesigned rooms, then head a couple of blocks down the street to the Guest Room, an appropriately low-ceilinged, dimly lit speakeasy serving the best cocktails in the city.

Hotel Chester

Arepas Coffee & Bar
This lively Starkville restaurant offers not only some of the best coffee drinks in town but also some of the best Venezuelan cuisine you’re likely to find in the South. The namesake arepas—crispy cornmeal cakes stuffed with a range of fillings (like plantains and queso or sausage and avocado)—are an obvious, and excellent, choice. But any order should also include a slab of tres leches cake and a basket of tequeños, Venezuelan cheese sticks featuring a crisp pastry crust and melty queso blanco.

The Big Cheese
Stop in at the MAFES Sales Store at Mississippi State for meats, jams, ice cream, and cheese produced on campus. The three-pound Edam cheese “cannon balls” have been iconic symbols of MSU for 75 years.

Ulysses. S. Grant Presidential Library
In November 2017, this library opened on the fourth floor of Mississippi State’s Mitchell Memorial Library in Starkville. While it may seem an odd location for a site dedicated to the Ohio-born general and president, the university maintains that no other state “did more to advance and propel” his career than Mississippi. Visitors will find engaging interactive displays that encourage reexamination of Grant’s tarnished legacy, as well as the nation’s largest private collection of Abraham Lincoln memorabilia in an adjoining gallery.

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Cotton District
Set between downtown Starkville and the campus of Mississippi State University, this neighborhood has long been regarded as a showplace for New Urbanism. Walkability and a wonderful range of historic and lovely new buildings make the area popular with students, residents, and visitors alike. Plan on lunch (and fantastic people watching) on the patio of Bin 612; the cheese fries are a must. Then spend an afternoon strolling the streets, spying architectural gems, and shopping the many boutiques.

Starkville’s Cotton District

Courtesy Starkville CVB

This article appears in the Summer 2024 issue of Southbound.

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Mississippi

Special season comes to an end for Mississippi State soccer team in Sweet 16

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Special season comes to an end for Mississippi State soccer team in Sweet 16


For a second-straight season, Mississippi State’s soccer team found itself in position to make more history with a trip to the Elite 8 in the NCAA Tournament.

Unfortunately for the Bulldogs, the season ended right there again.

Notre Dame’s offensive attack overwhelmed one of the country’s best defenses on Sunday night with two goals in the first 30 minutes of action on the way to a 2-0 win. It ended what was the best season in Bulldog history.

“Every single player was just so skilled on the ball. Their movement was sophisticated and they’re a physical team as well,” coach James Armstrong said. “I was thoroughly impressed with them (Sunday). We knew they were a special team but seeing them live is different. They’re a special team and I think they’ll go a long way throughout the tournament.”

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From early on, the Irish were the aggressors. State was on its heels in the early going and began to see things go heavily into Notre Dame’s favor at the 24th minute. Izzy Engle got a breakaway and sent it through the left side of the goal past Maddy Anderson for a 1-0 lead.

Just a couple of possessions later, Grace Restovich scored off the top right of the goal from the left foot to quickly put State in a hole. Both goals were scored by freshmen and continued what’s been an amazing year for coach Nate Norman’s squad. A large portion of the contributors were freshmen with 13 on the roster.

After being dominated 11-1 with shots on the offensive end, State had to find some aggression on the offensive side in the second half. The Bulldogs still couldn’t find the openings with seven shots in the final 45 minutes and Notre Dame would hold that lead.

The loss was a disappointing cap on the year, but Armstrong’s team left with heads held high. State finished 19-3 as the team set the school record for wins and had a perfect 10-0 SEC record. The squad won the first SEC Championship in program history and were 12-1 in games at the MSU Soccer Stadium.

State fans came out in droves to support this team as the Bulldogs had eight of the top 10 crowds in school history. The last two set the school record, including Friday night’s largest attended game at over 4,000. It was a season to remember but those inside the program believe it’s just the beginning.

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“It’s amazing to have been a part of,” Hodge said. “From the first year to now, the sisterhood to now and I truly think that it translates. I think it’s special having that belief and love translate to the community and become a part of that inner circle. It’s been as rewarding as being on the field has been.

“I think we’ve set the standard and every year it’s gone higher and higher. The younger girls know what’s expected and I’m sure they’re going to keep it trending in the right direction.”



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This week in politics: Why Democrats didn’t vote for Kamala Harris in Mississippi as they’ve done in previous years

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This week in politics: Why Democrats didn’t vote for Kamala Harris in Mississippi as they’ve done in previous years



Hyde Smith not interested in US Sec. of Ag, and US Rep. Michael Guest once again in national spotlight last week.

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Ever since Donald Trump won a lopsided victory over Vice President Kamala Harris, many have been researching how she lost by a worse margin than sitting President Joe Biden. 

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The answer might be as simple as this: Some Democrats simply didn’t vote, and that trend was true in Mississippi. 

Analyzing election data from Mississippi and the nation, turnout was low across the board, but the GOP won by a larger percentage of ballots cast in the state than in some previous presidential elections.  

According to Dallas Breen, the Stennis Institute’s executive director, many Democratic voters in swing counties did not see enough of a separation between Harris and Biden.

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Not wanting to vote for Trump but also not seeing a reformer in Harris, many Mississippi Democrats just decided to stay home on Election Day, Breen said. 

“From what we are seeing, you just had a lot of 50/50 counties, and there was a bigger drop off of Democrats not coming to vote than Republicans,” Breen said. “In years past, Democratic candidates were typically disconnected from that because they were senators, secretaries of state, etc.” 

That theory is also illustrated by the fact that Trump won six Mississippi counties that went for Biden in 2020, including some in the Delta.

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Hyde-Smith throws cold water on Sec. of Agriculture rumors

 Early last week, Sen. Cindy Hyde-Smith, a Republican, finally spoke on what state politicos had been wondering for weeks: Will she become the next U.S. Secretary of Agriculture? 

Her answer may not have a huge ripple effect, but it did reaffirm her bid for reelection in 2026.

“It’s an honor to be mentioned as a potential nominee for Secretary of Agriculture, but my plans are to remain in the Senate and continue to deliver for the people of Mississippi,” Hyde-Smith wrote in a press release. “As a former state agriculture commissioner and with my current committee assignments, I remain wholeheartedly committed to the ag community, its growth, and its success.” 

With Hyde-Smith out, the question remains if any Mississippi politician will get a seat at Trump’s table. Whether that comes through an appointment or semi-regular trips to the White House over the next four years remains to be seen.  

Mississippi US House Rep. at center of AG pick drama

For the second time since taking office, U.S. House Rep. Michael Guest, R-Dist. 3, took the national spotlight, though it was likely unwanted.

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Guest, who chairs the House Ethics Committee, told reporters Wednesday afternoon that a report on Trump’s now-former U.S. Attorney General pick Matt Gaetz’ alleged sexual misconduct and drug abuse was not going to be released.  

Over the last week, many had called on the committee to release the report to the Senate so when Gaetz came before an appointment committee, it would have all the facts. Others called on the Senate not to approve of the pick altogether.

House Speaker Mike Johnson, a Republican from Louisiana, had said since Gaetz resigned from Congress when Trump appointed him, the report could not be released. Gaetz bowed out of the appointment on Thursday.

Guest did not respond to requests for comment on the Gaetz report. Nor did Sen. Roger Wicker or Hyde-Smith respond to whether they would vote to approve Gaetz’ appointment if it came before the full Senate. 

“Democrats would have never nominated a candidate like Gaetz to anything,” U.S. House Rep. Bennie Thompson, D-Dist.3, said in a statement to the Clarion ledger about the former AG pick. “(Gaetz) demeans the office of Attorney General. Shame on the Republicans for embarrassing themselves.” 

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Branning sues election commissioners to pressure on-time ballot counting

As of the afternoon on Nov. 15, the Hinds County Election Commission had yet to send its final tally of absentee and affidavit ballots to the Mississippi Secretary of State’s Office.  

When it appeared that the commissioners might be pushing the count to the 5 p.m. deadline to submit them to, Mississippi Supreme Court Central District candidate and State Sen. Jenifer Branning’s attorney Spencer Ritchie filed a lawsuit in Hinds County Circuit Court to pressure them into finishing on time, he said.

Branning, a Republican from Philadelphia, has been on the record saying she is a constitutional conservative and would not “legislate from the bench. She has also been endorsed by the Mississippi GOP.  

MSOS Communications Director Elizabeth Jonson confirmed after 6 p.m. on Nov. 15 that Hinds County had sent in its finalized results. The lawsuit was then dismissed, Ritchie told the Clarion Ledger in a text message.  

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Grant McLaughlin covers the Legislature state government for the Clarion Ledger. He can be reached at gmclaughlin@gannett.com or 972-571-2335 



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Moments that mattered in Mississippi State’s loss to No. 23 Missouri

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Moments that mattered in Mississippi State’s loss to No. 23 Missouri


STARKVILLE — Mississippi State’s defense came to play early in Saturday’s game against Missouri, but as has frequently been the case when Coleman Hutzler’s unit has a rare bright moment, the offense could not take advantage.

The No. 23 Tigers were backed up inside their own 10-yard line following a 48-yard Nick Barr-Mira punt, and then the Bulldogs’ defense delivered three straight big plays. Safety Hunter Washington violently broke up a screen pass on first down, linebacker Stone Blanton tripped up running back Nate Noel for a loss on second down, and after Isaac Smith brought the first wave of pressure on third down, Zakari Tillman sacked Brady Cook just outside the end zone.

With limited space for the snap, the ensuing Missouri punt traveled just 39 yards, and Kevin Coleman’s return gave MSU the ball at the Tigers’ 32. But on second-and-8, freshman quarterback Michael Van Buren faked a handoff to Davon Booth and faced pressure from Eddie Kelly Jr. as he surveyed his options downfield. He stumbled as he tried to step up in the pocket, leaving the ball dangling in his right hand as he tried to stay on his feet.

Defensive tackle Kristian Williams knocked the ball out, and before anyone in maroon realized what was happening, safety Daylan Carnell scooped it up in stride and took it back 68 yards for a touchdown without any Bulldog laying a hand on him.

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MSU never recovered from the shock to its system, and Missouri went on to win 39-20.

“That was rough,” center Ethan Miner said. “Those situations happen, and it’s human instinct when something goes wrong, you want to get down. You can’t allow yourself to do it. You have to keep pushing. That’s what happens in life. That’s what happens in this game. Adversity is going to strike. How are you going to respond?”

Burden’s impressive catch underscores Tigers’ third-down success

The Bulldogs (2-9, 0-7 Southeastern Conference) trailed by just four points after a quarter, but the Tigers (8-3, 4-3) extended their first drive of the second quarter when Cook evaded a would-be sack from Branden Jennings and scrambled to move the chains on third down. Missouri kept moving on the ground until Sulaiman Kpaka burst into the backfield to bring down running back Nate Noel for a four-yard loss, bringing up a third-and-9 at the MSU 28.

Cook rolled to his right and flung the ball on the run toward the end zone, where star receiver Luther Burden III was tightly covered by safety Corey Ellington. But Ellington never turned back to the ball, and Burden made a last-second adjustment to separate himself from the defensive back and bring the ball in as he went to the ground. The Bulldogs never again trimmed the deficit to one score.

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The Tigers finished 11-for-18 on third down and 2-for-2 on fourth down, and their average yards to go on third down was just 4.6. Missouri was a perfect 6-for-6 on medium-distance third downs (between five and eight yards).

“That’s just a play. (Burden) made a play,” said Blanton, who had a game-high 18 tackles. “Can’t hang our heads too hard on that. Other stuff, we have to be able to get off the field on.”

Fourth-down stop effectively ices game

Despite possessing the ball for less than four minutes in the second half, MSU pulled back within striking distance on Booth’s 43-yard touchdown run in the third quarter. After a missed field goal from Missouri, the Bulldogs were poised to get even closer, starting their next drive with a 49-yard deep ball from Van Buren to Kelly Akharaiyi.

On the second play of the fourth quarter, MSU faced a fourth-and-3 at the Tigers’ 17. Instead of kicking a field goal to get within one score, head coach Jeff Lebby kept his offense on the field, and Van Buren made a simple two-step drop and had Mosley open across the middle. But his throw was too low, and Mosley couldn’t quite reach down far enough to gather the ball in.

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The Tigers proceeded to take almost nine minutes off the clock before Marcus Carroll put the final nail in the coffin with his third touchdown run of the game.

“We’re down 11, we have a chance on fourth-and-3,” Lebby said. “We’re being aggressive. The book (says) go all the way, I’m going for it, and we have to make that layup. That’s truly a layup where we have the ability to pitch and catch.”

Mississippi State Football MSU

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