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This Austin Chef Moved From Oaxaca, but Oaxaca Never Left Her

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This Austin Chef Moved From Oaxaca, but Oaxaca Never Left Her


When Austin chef Iliana de la Vega was growing up in Mexico City in the 1960s and ’70s, she and her family often traveled into Oaxaca on a long, narrow, and twisty road. “It would take 10, 12 hours to get there on this road that was all curves,” the chef recalls about those trips to visit her extended family. These journeys down a dangerous road to visit her extended family in Oaxaca shaped her life for decades to come as she made her way to Texas, where in 2012 she opened one of the premier Mexican restaurants in the country, El Naranjo, to showcase the heritage flavors of her ancestral homeland.

In Austin the fall of 2023 fall, de la Vega’s business went through many changes as she hands the reins of her restaurant to her daughter, Ana Torrealba, and expands her culinary tourism company into new Mexican cities. Throughout this, Oaxaca continues to drive de la Vega’s culinary inspiration. When she brings back groups of people to the same Oaxacan markets her great-grandmothers would have shopped, it’s full circle.

Oaxaca was considered a far-off place in the 1960s and ’70s, even to her friends in Mexico City, as it was cut off from the rest of the country by mountains and rivers. It wasn’t until 1994 that the Mexican government built a highway that connected Oaxaca, “rich in culture, poor in economy,” she says, to the rest of the country — and eventually the world.

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The famous duck mole at El Naranjo.
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A plate of cooked octopus on a table.

An octopus dish from El Naranjo.
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A plate of shrimp with a sauce on a table.

A shrimp dish from El Naranjo.

In the Mexican tradition, culinary know-how is passed down through the maternal line. During de la Vega’s family trips to Oaxaca, she’d spend time with her grandmother, Justa, and her dozens of cousins and relatives. For her, it was where life revolved around food. Her grandmother had 12 children, and only three girls. Of those, de la Vega’s mother was the only one to have children, so the chef was perhaps destined to be the keeper of her family’s cooking knowledge.

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After she graduated from high school in Mexico City, de la Vega tried six different majors in college, including literature, communication, pedagogy, and tourism management, but never graduated. “I had very good grades, but I got bored at school and I just wanted to cook,” she says. To her mother’s initial disappointment, she started selling baked goods and cookies while teaching small cooking classes that people found out about through word-of-mouth. “My mother was a chemist, and for her, cooking was a step back,” she says. “But I couldn’t resist it. I was just teaching them what I knew.”

After meeting Ernesto during high school, getting married, and having their two daughters, the family eventually moved to the city that shaped her culinary path. They opened the original El Naranjo restaurant — named after the Spanish word for “orange tree” — in Oaxaca City in 1997. Political unrest in the early 2000s forced the couple to close the business and move to the U.S. She landed in San Antonio at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where she taught Latin American foodways for five years. In 2012, the couple moved to Austin to reopen El Naranjo.

During de la Vega’s time at the CIA, she started getting requests from clients to take them on private culinary trips to Oaxaca. Eventually, she decided to start a side business to fill that niche called Mexican Culinary Traditions, which now operates more than a dozen culinary trips a year to four destinations in Mexico. During these weeklong trips, she teaches cooking classes and hosts walking tours exploring aspects of the culinary culture. Her daughter, Isabel Torrealba, an anthropologist and journalist, teaches attendees about the history, architecture, and culture of the destinations. The trips originally focused on Oaxaca and, fueled by her desire to showcase the diversity of Mexican cuisine, expanded to Morelia in 2021 and Mérida earlier in 2023.

De la Vega spends a lot of time writing recipes for her consulting clients — such as Stanford and the University of Massachusetts, which hire her to reboot campus dining halls — but draws inspiration from what’s in season during the trips. “We go to the market and we look around and see what is fresh,” she says. “I don’t even know what I am cooking that day until we go to the market.” Her approach reflects the Mexican approach to cooking, she says. “This is the way we cook in Mexico. It’s ‘What do I have and what can I do with what I have?’”

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A bright restaurant dining room.

The bright dining room of El Naranjo.
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A restaurant dining room and bar.

Another section of El Naranjo includes an open-bar area.
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A restaurant dining room with a yellow and an orange wall with artwork plus wooden tables and chairs.

El Naranjo’s dining room features Mexican artworks and decorations.

Many of her tour guests have never cooked without a recipe and often stress if they don’t have all the ingredients, but de la Vega relishes the opportunity to experiment outside of her restaurant. “I think that is more stressful than to go with the flow,” she says.

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Through these trips, de la Vega has met hundreds of people from all over the world — India, Singapore, England, Spain — as well as Mexican tourists and Mexican Americans exploring their own country or heritage. “Some people will say, ‘Oh, my mom used to do that,’” she says as they point to a technique or way of serving a dish. “In a way, we open the door for them, so they feel they are taken care of.”

El Naranjo has transformed in Austin too, starting off as a food truck in 2012, growing into a physical restaurant on Rainey Street, and then relocating onto South Lamar. Then there was the pandemic and what de la Vega considers one of the biggest moments of her career with both pride and humility: her James Beard Award win in the first-ever Best Chef: Texas category in 2022, a feat for an Austin restaurant that focuses on interior Mexican food.

The medal is the kind of nod that most chefs only dream of but wasn’t one that kept her up at night. “I have never been a prize-seeker, but it felt good,” she says, “because you work hard and are trying to do something that makes a difference, so to get recognition makes me feel proud, but it didn’t change much in my daily life.”

After the award, she saw new faces in the restaurant and new interest in her culinary trips, but in many ways, she still feels like she is in survival mode with increased competition from new restaurants and diners’ hesitant to spend money due to economic uncertainties, not to mention rising food costs. “The pandemic was so, so hard,” she says. “We had just moved into the new location when COVID hit after seven years on Rainey. It’s a big step to still be here and be able to count on the people who still work with us.”

With her James Beard recognition, de la Vega is shifting from one chapter to the next. Earlier in 2023, her 35-year-old daughter officially took over the day-to-day management of the staff and the culinary operations at El Naranjo as chef de cuisine, giving de la Vega time to focus on her tours and consulting projects. De la Vega is now traveling more than ever, with 14 culinary trips a year scheduled.

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Much like her mother, Ana Torrealba grew up surrounded by food, spending time at the family’s restaurants in Oaxaca and Austin. She studied baking and pastry at the CIA in Hyde Park before working at restaurants in New York and studying food engineering in Mexico City.

Three people standing next to a bar.

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Ana Torrealba, Ernesto Torrealba, and Iliana de la Vega at El Naranjo.

A woman in a gray shirt and yellow apron standing next to a bar.

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Ana Torrealba.

De la Vega didn’t dissuade her daughter from getting into the food world like her own mother did, “but I did tell her that it was a hard life,” she says. When Torrealba moved to Austin, she worked nights at Central Market’s bakery, and still made the decision that, even with the long hours, she wanted her hands covered in flour and masa, just like her mom.

De la Vega’s journey from Mexico City to Oaxaca to Texas while raising her daughters and building a community around one of the most lauded restaurants in the city, has been satisfying, but she’s not finished yet. The chef still does extensive consulting work. She also speaks on panels about women and diversity in the culinary industry, and is constantly researching to improve and expand her culinary trips. She also wants to take some time for herself. “My main goal now is to see my girls doing well. I’d like to retire and go back and forth between Oaxaca and here and travel with my husband.”

But semi-retirement won’t look like resting on her laurels.

“I don’t know how to sit still,” she says, noting that she has over 10 culinary trips scheduled already, many of which are already sold out.

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It’s a lot easier to get to Oaxaca than it used to be, but in some ways, it’s harder to remember what it was like before it became one of the top tourism destinations in Mexico. But that’s the Oaxaca she tries to remember when she’s on the road, teaching chefs and tour guests about her culinary heritage. It’s a legacy she’s building one trip at a time.

2717 South Lamar Boulevard, Austin, Texas 78704



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Austin, TX

Criminal trespass charges dismissed for 79 UT-Austin pro-Palestinian protesters – UPI.com

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Criminal trespass charges dismissed for 79 UT-Austin pro-Palestinian protesters – UPI.com


June 26 (UPI) — Charges filed against 79 pro-Palestinian protesters, who were arrested in April at the University of Texas at Austin campus, will be dismissed, according to prosecutors who attracted praise from Muslim and free speech advocates.

Travis County Attorney Delia Garza made the announcement Wednesday during a press conference explaining the decision was based on a number of factors, including whether they would be able to obtain a conviction by a jury.

“After weighing all the evidence, we cannot meet our legal burden to prove these 79 criminal trespass cases beyond a reasonable doubt and they will be dismissed,” she said.

The protest erupted at the school as many had at universities across the United States and Canada in support of Palestinians and in criticism of Israel’s war against Hamas in Gaza. The protesters were generally demanding that their schools divest from Israel and companies that support its military.

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On April 29, law enforcement officers rounded up protesters who were demonstrating on the South Lawn of the UT-Austin campus in a police action directed by Texas Gov. Greg Abbott and at the request for assistance by the school. The school said some were arrested for criminal trespass while other were arrested for disorderly conduct.

Abbott has been a vocal critic of the protesters, calling for demonstrators to be arrested and describing their demonstration as “hate-filled” and “anti-Semitic.”

The arrests on April 29 came days after more than two dozen protesting on campus were arrested.

The local Palestine Solidarity Committee behind the protest accused Abbott and the police of violating their First Amendment rights. Garza on Wednesday seemingly chastised the Republican governor for his actions that day.

“The decisions that were made in response to these protests continue to show, as I’ve said before, the severe lack of leadership we expect from our leaders, as they continue to prioritize extreme government overreach over actual public safety,” she said.

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This is the second time Garza has dismissed charges filed against protesters arrested that day, with the first batch being thrown out shortly after the police action on the grounds of lacking probable cause.

She told reporters that the charges dismissed Wednesday were all for criminal trespass and that some cases resulting from April’s arrest are still under review.

“The decision is a relief for the students, their families and civil rights and free speech organizations,” Shaimaa Zayan, Austin operations manager for the Council on American-Islamic Relations, said in a statement.

“We hope that the dismissal of these charges will prompt the UT Austin administration to reconsider any disciplinary actions against the students. Attorney Garza’s statement highlighted the undue influence of the governor and the UT Austin administration in the arrests. We share her wish that the situation had been handled differently.”

UPI has contacted both UT-Austin and Austin’s branch of the Palestine Solidarity Committee for comment.

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Late last week, Manhattan District Attorney’s Office dismissed charges laid against 31 of 46 pro-Palestinians charged with trespassing in connection to last month’s demonstrations inside Columbia University’s Hamilton Hall.

The office said 14 of the defendants were offered to have their charges dismissed if they avoided arrest over the next six months, an offer the demonstrators rejected.



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Austin, TX

5 things to know about Texas’ Jim Schlossnagle, including his dramatic Texas A&M exit

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5 things to know about Texas’ Jim Schlossnagle, including his dramatic Texas A&M exit


Jim Schlossnagle left Texas A&M for the Texas head coach job immediately after the Aggies’ College World Series run fell short, which created a firestorm of controversy in Aggieland.

Here are five things to know about Schlossnagle:

1. Aggie turned Longhorn

Schlossnagle’s previously mentioned move from College Station to Austin was one of the most shocking coaching moves both in state history and in recent college sports history. Not only did he leave the Aggies to become the Longhorns’ head coach, but he did so less than 24 hours after Texas A&M lost the College World Series final to Tennessee.

The next day, he was officially named Texas’ next head coach and took the entire coaching staff with him. The day after he took the Texas job, 11 Aggie players (including six starters from the College World Series) entered the transfer portal. It’s safe to say that as Texas joins the SEC next season, Schlossnagle’s first trip back to College Station as Texas’ head coach will be a series to keep an eye on.

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According to D1Baseball.com’s Kendall Rogers, the deal with Texas was done before the Aggies’ postseason even started.

“One interesting note is that I was told by multiple sources today that this deal — at least at the highest level — was done between A&M’s series with Georgia and before the Regional round,” Rogers tweeted.

Longhorns columnist Kirk Bohls put it bluntly: “Texas just stole A&M’s soul.”

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2. His tense moment with a reporter before taking the Texas job

In the postgame press conference after the Aggies lost the CWS final to Tennessee, a reporter asked him about his future with Texas A&M since Texas had just fired head coach David Pierce.

He snapped back at the reporter.

“I think it’s pretty selfish of you you to ask me that question, to be honest with you,” he said. “But I left my family to be the coach at Texas A&M. I took the job at Texas A&M to never take another job again. And that hasn’t changed in my mind. That’s unfair to talk about something like that.”

At his introductory press conference, Schlossnagle explained and apologized for his comments.

“I wish I could have answered that better,” Schlossnagle said. “I didn’t intend to mislead (Texas A&M fans). In that moment, that’s exactly how I felt.”

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“If I had left Texas A&M for some other school, in a different part of the country, the interesting text messages and messages that I got yesterday probably wouldn’t have happened. But I get it,” he later said.

Jim Schlossnagle, center, is presented a jersey by Texas Athletic Director Chris Del Conte, left, and Texas president Jay Hartzell, right, after he was introduced as the new NCAA college head baseball coach at Texas, Wednesday, June 26, 2024, in Austin, Texas. Schlossnagle left rival program Texas A&M.(Eric Gay / AP)

3. The UT-A&M jump wasn’t his first in-state coaching move

Schlossnagle spent nearly two decades as TCU’s head coach, starting in 2004 until he left the Texas A&M in 2021. Just before that year’s Big 12 tournament, Schlossnagle told the Fort Worth Star-Telegram that he “had no interest in any other job.”

He had a terrific run in Fort Worth, as he became the winningest coach in TCU history and led the Frogs to Omaha five times (including a stretch of four straight seasons). TCU had been to NCAA Tournament just twice before Schlossnagle arrived and took the Frogs to the tournament 15 times.

4. He is one of the most decorated coaches in college baseball

Over his tenures as head coach of UNLV, TCU, and Texas A&M, he has accumulated a 945-452 record and plenty of awards along the way.

He has won eight conference Coach of the Year honors, is a two-time National Coach of the Year, and has gone to the College World Series seven times. He is also one of 11 coaches to win games in the CWS with multiple programs.

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5. Unique relationship with Texas AD Chris Del Conte and waiting at a cemetery

Schlossnagle’s relationship with Texas AD Chris Del Conte dates back to Schlossnagle’s TCU days. Del Conte was TCU’s AD from 2009-2017 before becoming the Longhorns’ AD. At his introductory press conference with Texas, they cited their friendship as a reason for the move.

“For 10 years I’ve had a front row seat to watch the man lead a [TCU] from the ashes to five times in Omaha,” Del Conte said.

Later in the presser, Del Conte said he hid in a cemetery outside of College Station waiting for Schlossnagle to get home so we wouldn’t be seen in Aggieland.

“When I was in the cemetery, [then on the way] to their house, it’s just as crazy as it sounds. I played every scenario in my mind. I drove to his house, had a long, long discussion, put him in the car, and we drove off,” he said.

After the press conference, he proved his story was real with a picture of his hiding spot:

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    Texas A&M hit with transfer portal exodus after Jim Schlossnagle’s exit
    Schlossnagle: ‘Didn’t intend to mislead’ A&M fans with comments prior to taking Texas job

Find more college sports coverage from The Dallas Morning News here.

Find more Texas coverage from The Dallas Morning News here.

Find more Texas A&M coverage from The Dallas Morning News here.



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Austin, TX

Travis County Attorney drops charges against 79 more UT-Austin protesters

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Travis County Attorney drops charges against 79 more UT-Austin protesters



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