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Vermont’s ‘crack climbing mecca’ deep in the Northeast Kingdom gains popularity – VTDigger

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Vermont’s ‘crack climbing mecca’ deep in the Northeast Kingdom gains popularity – VTDigger


Deep in the Northeast Kingdom lie the Kingdom Heritage Lands, 132,000 acres of former and current timberland conserved for public access since 1998. The remote and undeveloped area is mainly the domain of wildlife, logging trucks, hunters and snowmobilers.

Recently, however, increasing numbers of rock climbers have frequented a stunning band of chiseled granite towers set in the middle of the Kingdom Heritage Lands, at a cliff 30 minutes south of the Canadian border and on the northern edge of the Nulhegan basin.

Rock climbers on Black Mountain in Averill on August 15, 2021. Photo by K. Fiegenbaum/VTDigger

“As soon as you reach the cliff, your jaw drops,” Mischa Tourin, executive director of the Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont — or CRAG-VT — said last week. “It all is perfect 90-degree angles, like it was built by rock climbers with rock climbing in mind.”

Climbers first explored the cliff, known as Black Mountain (not to be mistaken for Black Mountain Natural Area in Dummerston), around 2005, but only visited it sporadically until it was added to the second edition of Vermont’s comprehensive outdoor climbing guidebook, “Vermont Rock,” in 2022.

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Alongside the subsequent increase in use of the cliff, the nonprofit CRAG-VT has spent the past few years working with landowners and easement-holders to preserve access, including creating a climbing management plan and establishing rock climbing as an “acceptable form of recreation” on the Kingdom Heritage Lands.

As part of that effort, six weeks of trail work on the area’s rugged and steep approach trail have been completed over the last two years by NorthWoods Stewardship Center, with significant funding from the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation.

According to Tourin, outdoor rock climbing in Vermont was, for a long time, defined by the schist that runs along the spine of the Green Mountains — a unique rock covered with tiny impressions, used by rock climbers as “holds.” In contrast, Black Mountain is made up of strong granite covered in “perfect” parallel cracks of varying sizes, Tourin said, which geologically has more in common with the White Mountains of New Hampshire or world-class climbing areas like Yosemite.

The power-line access road that leads to Black Mountain on September 4, 2021. Photo by K. Fiegenbaum/VTDigger

Those cracks, Tourin said, are very conducive to “traditional” climbing, where participants jam their hands and feet into the crack to move upward and place expansion gear — attached to a rope — in the cracks to catch a fall or help facilitate a descent.

“I think I feel comfortable saying that (Black Mountain) is the best place in the Northeast for crack climbing, as far as the number of crack climbs in one cliff,” the longtime climber and guide said. About 70 different routes have been established at the area, most of them of moderate or advanced difficulty.

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However, reaching “Vermont’s premiere crack climbing mecca” can be quite the trek.

Black Mountain is located about a three-hour drive from Burlington, on the edge of Averill (population 21) and Lewis (population 0). Following a GPS will likely lead to a dead end, and a high-clearance vehicle is recommended.

The cliff is even a sizable distance from the Northeast Kingdom towns of St. Johnsbury (one hour and 30 minutes) or Newport (one hour), since users generally drive all the way up to the Canadian border in Norton before traveling 6.2 miles south on a slow, rocky power-line access road to reach Black Mountain’s parking area.

“It’s definitely far away,” Tourin said. “The last few times I’ve been there, it certainly seems like more folks in Canada have noticed that it’s a pretty good climbing resource because it’s only a couple miles south of the border.”

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Before CRAG-VT’s involvement, the ordeal to reach the base of the cliff didn’t stop at the parking area. Up until a couple of years ago, visitors had to try and locate the access trail, which was steep, prone to erosion, often muddy and lined with prickly plants that latched onto any nearby pants leg.

As of last month, however, trail workers have fully established a sustainable approach trail that includes a welcome kiosk, 38 stone steps, four wooden ladders and 160 feet of retaining wall, a recent CRAG-VT newsletter explained. 

Julia Vitale climbs at Black Mountain in Averill on October 9, 2022. File photo by Mischa Tourin

“Next phases will continue base-of-cliff stabilization, assess more complex gully issues, and explore parking improvements,” the newsletter read. “This work moves us closer to a fully sustainable Black Mountain for years to come.”

According to Tourin, CRAG-VT’s work lies not only in securing access to climbing and stewarding cliffs but also in building community. To that end, the group held weekend member meetups titled Kingdom Climbing Weekend this year and last, renting out cottages at Quimby Country resort in Averill.

“We started it off maybe as a one-time thing to celebrate the start of (CRAG-VT’s) corridor manager agreement,” said Tourin, adding that most of those 40 participants wanted to return the next year to what he described as a “magical little family camp” on a lake.

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“It’s a pretty great event and a pretty cool way to bring, I think, a little bit of money into the local community there,” he said.

While the remoteness of Black Mountain can be a draw, Tourin said it’s hard to gauge the future of the climbing area due to its location.

“It’s an amazing cliff,” he said. “I don’t know if it will ever be super crowded, just because it’s so far tucked away in the corner of the state, but it’s definitely a resource worth traveling to.”





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Northwest Vermont watershed organizations talk actions to prevent flooding

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Northwest Vermont watershed organizations talk actions to prevent flooding


NORTHWEST VERMONT– The cost of Vermont’s seemingly yearly flooding is adding up quickly, but work is underway by organizations throughout the state to slow the effects. 

Following historic flooding in 2023, Montpelier swiftly passed Act 121, otherwise known as the Flood Safety Act. The sweeping bill aims to guide communities in regulating river corridors and lays out a plan for implementing stricter regulations around development near rivers. 

The implementation of the bill and its mandates are quickly proving their need as the Federal Emergency Management Agency is going through major reforms, and off the back of the federal government’s two-time rejection of FEMA help this year to towns in the Northeast Kingdom hit by flooding again last year – legislators are now considering using state dollars to help out. 

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Baked in the bill is a requirement for the state and local organizations to offer education and outreach around the bill and its requirements, Franklin County had its turn last Thursday. 

What is the Flood Safety Act?

While Franklin County itself faced minimal impacts from flooding over the past few years, Act 121 takes a whole state approach toward flood safety. 

“Often the most successful flood mitigation, risk mitigation efforts are those that are taken at a watershed-wide scale,” said Alison Spasyk, a flood resilience educator with the Lake Champlain Sea Grant. “Becuase a lot of what this act does is take a state-wide approach to flood hazard regulations also in effect takes a watershed wide approach so that all towns upstream and downstream of the same river system are doing similar things to make their residents safe.” 

Really, it means folks at the Vermont Department of Environmental Conservation are working on mapping river corridors – areas on either side of the river where the channel is expected to adjust over time – in order to make changes to minimize erosion damage in the future. 

The rules around development are yet to be written up, but the act aims to regulate development in river corridors, strengthen dam safety and oversight and increase floodwater storage in wetlands. 

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Actual administration of the new rules is expected to begin in 2028. 

Many of the rules being put in place stem from generations of Vermonters altering streams. Old practices of straightening waterways or removing flood plains have created growing issues in the state. 

“After looking back at our historic approach, what we see is these efforts have not worked and in fact made problems worse,” said Shayne Jaquith, watershed restoration program manager at The Nature Conservancy. 

Those practices created a long-term effect of erosion style flooding. Erosion wears away at the land undermining areas next to rivers and streams. That style of flooding often leads to damaged roads, bridges, culverts and other river side infrastructure. 

Around 75% of the monetary flood damage in the state is caused by fluvial erosion. The 2023 flooding, for example, cost Vermont around $620 million in damages. 

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“We know that floods cost our state a lot of money, especially these really large ones,” Spasyk said. 

Small floods also add up quickly for Vermont’s many small municipalities and are more frequent, Spasyk said, with somewhere in the state being impacted almost every one-to-two years. Vermont’s average annual public flood damage costs are $30 million, according to an analysis of damage from 2008-2021. 

“It might be quite a small regional scale, but it’s still very impactful for those communities,” she said. “We know that flooding is the most common and costly recurring hazard in Vermont.” 

Over the next few years, DEC will continue to work out the details of the river corridor maps with extra emphasis on the areas in villages and downtowns where infill development can be safe and where to avoid. 

Organizations already putting in the effort

Statewide presenters were joined last Thursday by regional organizations including the Missisquoi River Basin Association, Northwest Regional Planning Commission and the Franklin County Natural Resources Conservation District. 

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Each organization gave a small presentation on the work they’re doing already to help mitigate flood risks. 

Starting first with the MRBA, Ellen Fox, a project manager for the association, said the group took over land in the Jay area and turned the area into a nursery. 

“The goal is to use the land along the river to grow trees bound to populate riparian restoration projects along the river,” Fox said. 

Another large project taken on by MRBA is a dam removal in Newport. The dam was originally used to retain water for putting out fires, but has since breached. 

By tearing down the dam, Fox said, they not only are working to restore aquatic habitat and promote the natural flow of the river, but also removing the threat of dam failure which would impact property and infrastructure downstream. 

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On a similar note, FCNRCD community engagement specialist, Orenna Brand, started her presentation off with the district’s recent Trout Dam removal project in Berkshire. 

“There is still some work that remains to be done on this site … it’s already starting to renaturalize,” Brand said. “Some of the benefits are restoring the free flowing conditions of the brook, improving aquatic habitat and connectivity for trout and other fish and wildlife and stabilizing the newly exposed flood plain with native vegetation.” 

Still, FCNRCD is on the case for flood safety in other parts of the county. In Montgomery, Brand said the district has been working with the town on ways to improve flood mitigation in one of the more mountainous municipalities in Franklin County. 

Following stakeholder meetings with residents, work has already begun or is in the initial planning phases. Plan one is fully in motion with floodplain restoration and wetland restoration around the Fuller Bridge Road area. That project is funded and ready to start work this summer. 

“The intended objective is to reduce in-channel velocities, reduce erosion hazards and to install road embankment armoring to protect the road and adjacent infrastructure,” Brand said. 

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Finally, NRPC came in at the end to explain how they fit in. 

NRPC takes more of an administrative view than boots on the ground, senior planner Dean Pierce said. 

“You could say the core objective is building resilience,” Pierce said. “A truly resilient community is one that can reduce the loss of life and property, recover more quickly after a disaster strikes and ensure vulnerable populations are fully supported during and after emergencies.”

“We aim to move the region from a state of occasional vulnerability to one of preparation and strategic management,” he continued. 

There are four pillars in flood safety and mitigation taken by NRPC: emergency planning, transportation planning, community planning and water quality planning. 

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All four pillars deal with finding vulnerabilities and prioritizing actions which best serve municipalities. Whether that’s supporting towns in recovery after a disaster, drafting flood mitigation bylaws or providing grants as the clean water service provider, Pierce said NRPC works to keep municipalities ready and compliant with all new regulations. 

The new rules from the state alongside local organizations’ attempts to mitigate flooding risks and damages are all working hand-in-hand for one goal of creating a safer Vermont.





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Camp Outright for LGBTQ youth opens volunteer applications

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Camp Outright for LGBTQ youth opens volunteer applications


Applications are open for volunteers to support the Camp Outright program for young LGBTQ people. The application deadline is midnight April 24, according to a community announcement.

People ages 18-19 are encouraged to apply for the a leadership program, which will see them help guide activities and support campers during the week. This leadership role comes with a stipend of $450. Participants can serve as a camp leader for one summer.

Adult volunteers can fill various roles at Camp Outright. These include cabin counselors, program floaters, kitchen team members, mental health professionals and medical staff. Volunteers will work directly with kids and participate in camp activities. Detailed descriptions of each role are available on the application page at outrightvt.campbrainstaff.com.

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Camp volunteer stipends range from $600-$1,000 per week. A fund is available to camp volunteers, providing up to an additional $400, to ensure the camp is accessible to people from any background.

Camp Outright will have two sessions this summer. Required pre-camp training will take place June 30-July 3.

The first camp session is July 3-9; the second will run July 11-17.

This story was created with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI). Journalists were involved in every step of the information gathering, review, editing and publishing process. Learn more at cm.usatoday.com/ethical-conduct.



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Supreme Court reverses lower court on qualified immunity for Vermont police sergeant who arrested protester

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Supreme Court reverses lower court on qualified immunity for Vermont police sergeant who arrested protester


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The Supreme Court on Monday ruled that a Vermont state police sergeant is entitled to qualified immunity in a lawsuit brought by a protester who said she was injured when an officer used a wristlock to remove her from a sit-in at the state capitol.

In an unsigned per curiam opinion, the court reversed the 2nd U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals in Zorn v. Linton, holding that existing precedent did not clearly establish that Sgt. Jacob Zorn’s specific conduct violated the Constitution. 

“The Second Circuit held that Zorn was not entitled to qualified immunity,” read the majority ruling – with the three liberal justices dissenting – rejecting excess use of force arguments. “We reverse.”

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The justices said officers are generally shielded from civil liability unless prior case law put the unlawfulness of their actions “beyond debate.” 

JUDGE RULES FEDERAL AGENTS MUST LIMIT TEAR GAS AT PROTESTS NEAR PORTLAND ICE BUILDING

Just the three liberal justice dissented against the unsigned majority opinion. President Donald Trump brought three conservative justices to the Supreme Court in his first term, giving it a 6-3 conservative majority. (OLIVIER DOULIERY/AFP via Getty Images)

“Because the Second Circuit failed to identify a case where an officer taking similar actions in similar circumstances ‘was held to have violated’ the Constitution, Zorn was entitled to qualified immunity,” the ruling concluded. 

“We grant his petition for writ of certiorari and reverse the judgment of the Second Circuit.”

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The case arose from a 2015 sit-in by healthcare protesters at the Vermont capitol on Gov. Peter Shumlin’s inauguration day. After the building closed, police moved to arrest demonstrators who refused to leave. According to the opinion, protester Shela Linton remained seated and linked arms with others. 

Zorn warned her he would have to use force, then took her arm, placed it behind her back, applied pressure to her wrist and lifted her to her feet. Linton later sued, alleging physical and psychological injuries. 

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The Supreme Court said the 2nd Circuit relied too heavily on its earlier decision in Amnesty America v. West Hartford, finding that case did not clearly establish that “using a routine wristlock to move a resistant protester after warning her, without more, violates the Constitution.” 

On that basis, the justices concluded Zorn was entitled to qualified immunity and reversed the lower court.

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Justice Sonia Sotomayor dissented, joined by Justices Elena Kagan and Ketanji Brown Jackson. She argued the court had improperly stepped in with the “extraordinary remedy of a summary reversal” and said a jury could find the officer used excessive force against a nonviolent protester engaged in passive resistance.

U.S. Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor wrote the dissent Monday in Zorn v Linton. (Jahi Chikwendiu/The Washington Post via Getty Images)

“A jury could find that Zorn violated Linton’s clearly established Fourth Amendment rights,” Sotomayor wrote in the signed dissent.

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“The majority today gives officers license to inflict gratuitous pain on a nonviolent protestor even where there is no threat to officer safety or any other reason to do so,” she concluded. 

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READ THE ORDER – APP USERS, CLICK HERE:

“That is plainly inconsistent with the Fourth Amendment’s fundamental guarantee that officers may only use ‘the amount of force that is necessary’ under the circumstances,” Sotomayor wrote. “Therefore, I respectfully dissent.”



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