As we take our first steps in Maine, we look back on our journey through New Hampshire. This portion of the trail was easily the most challenging. Our last days in Vermont included three 20 mile days. Soon after entry into New Hampshire these big mile days all but ceased and continued to drop until we were regularly in the single digits.
Just as rocky as Pennsylvania sometimes – Yes, this is the trail.
Just as muddy as anything in Vermont and I never did find the bottom – Yes, this is the trail.
The trail is steep – Yes, this is the trail.
New Hampshire describes their trails as rugged. I tend to use more colorful terms, which are best left out of print. The views were often spectacular though, easily some of the best we have seen on the entire AT.
Mount Madison
Franconia Notch
Welcome to New Hampshire
Weather Welcome
Within a couple of days of entry, we found ourselves on Smart Mountain on some rock ledges near the ridge. We knew there was a small chance for rain, so were unsurprised when the shower started. The lightning, however, was most unwelcome. We began to move quickly to get off the ridge, what we thought was our safest bet. This process was slow as the rocks were very slick. Things started to get ridiculous though when the winds and the hail started. Pea sized hail is awful but once it got to quarter sized, it was time to run.
Moving to the tree line, we found shelter under a large tree with a low branch near the trail. Within a few minutes, it was over, but we were soaked. We headed to the summit and found an old fire warden’s cabin, completely enclosed. This allowed us to dry out and plan our immediate future. Ma Wampus found that we could have a hostel pick us up nearby or we could go an additional 25 miles. I voted hostel.
Meeting a Legend
We arranged to meet the hostel’s driver at the trailhead. On our arrival, we found the driver to be none other than “Miss Janet”, probably the most famous trail angel on the Appalachian Trail. Miss Janet has helped thousands of hikers with everything from providing actual resources or services, like a ride or a stay, to advice on safely completing the trail.
Miss Janet agreed with our plan to “slackpack” Mt. Moosilauke to get an idea of the challenges the White Mountains presented. Generally used in combination with a multi-day stay, slackpacking allows the hiker to carry less on their actual hike. In my case, my pack goes from 35lbs to somewhere around 8lbs because I can discard my tent and a bear can filled with several days worth of food.
Introduction to the Whites
Mt. Moosilauke
Our “slack pack” began on the South side of Mt. Moosilauke in the rain. Immediately, we noticed that the trail is rugged and steep, but beautiful. Much of the trail up sided a waterway full of cascading waterfalls.
Once we reached the summit, at 4795ft, we noticed a general lack of trees, major decrease in temperature and increase in wind, and many stone cairns. The stone cairns replaced the white blazes as the physical direction for those attempting to follow the AT. We walked 9 miles in approximately 8 hours.
Advice Not Taken
Miss Janet advised us to carry 4-5 days of food and provided an itinerary to get through the White Mountains in approximately 11 days. She also advised to avoid a slack pack plan offered by other hostels that involved a 16 mile hike in one day.
We moved on and found, as Miss Janet stated, a plan to hike 16 miles in one day. On review, it looked doable. In weighing our options, carrying a 35-40lb pack for the next 5 days at 9-10 miles per day or carrying a lighter pack again, we decided to go with the lighter pack. The 16 mile plan would be difficult but, barring any difficulties, entirely possible. The AT is funny though. There are always difficulties.
The Kinsmans
Our hike up the Kinsmans began without issue. Soon after our arrival to the trailhead, it began to rain. It never stopped. The trail turned into a creek.
On the crest, the rocks were slick and wet and the going was slow. By the time we reached the bottom again, we had been hiking 11 hours. The entire plan called for a 10 hour day. We were almost home though and a nice hot chocolate and a warm shower awaited. A little brook with a rock hop and a paved section of state park was all that stood in our way.
Difficulties
11 hours of fairly heavy rain had turned the babbling brook into a roaring cascade. Ma Wampus and I had to yell to each other over the noise of the rushing water. Fortunately, there were five of us, one of which was a Southbounder. The Southbounder had completed Maine, which involved multiple river crossings. “I’ll find the way”, he said, as he stepped into the roaring cascade.
The Southbounder yelled instructions as he tapped his way forward to the middle of the brook, the water reaching almost to his chest. It was like watching a DIY Youtube video. “Here, we can cross here”, he yelled. The water was a good four feet high where he stood. I looked at my 5’2” wife and thought “No @&($@&$ way”. Shaking my head no, I pointed over to Ma Wampus. I walked upstream. The cascades were stronger but I could see the rock bottom and it looked to be a little higher than my knee.
I tapped my way toward the cascade, surprised of the force of the water. I braced against a rock to stabilize myself. Once secure, I motioned for Ma Wampus to cross. While it did get to thigh level for her, she managed to cross without incident. As she touched the shore on the other side, I turned and saw that the Southbounder had stayed in place the entire time. I waived but he had already started walking as well. Ma Wampus and I agreed we would avoid climbing these mountains in heavy rain.
Our journey through the Whites had just begun.
Other Observations
With a state whose motto is “Live Free or Die”, one could expect a few stories. We were not disappointed. Here are but a couple that provide some flavor of this magical place.
Sarah and the Bear
1783 Warren NH – about 3 miles from the AT. Four year old Sarah begs her parents to let her go with them to visit her uncle on the mountain. Sarah’s father declines. The parents visit the uncle and then return a day or so later. On their return, Sarah’s siblings ask the parents why they left Sarah at her uncle’s place.
The parents freak out, as one would do, and get together a search party from Warren. Eventually, a famous tracker comes down from the mountain some four days later and helps with the search. He is the one that finds Sarah’s bloody footprints some distance from the house and that of the large bear that was clearly following her. The search turned into a somber recovery mission.
The next day men of the search party heard firing – Sarah had been found. The rest of the story was relayed by…..Sarah. The bear had indeed found her. She had cut her feet on the rocks and was crying. The temperature had dropped and she was cold – freezing, probably. The bear licked her and then layed down, affording her a very warm place to lay as well, which she did. The bear watched over her, only leaving when the search party got close.
This story is famous in New Hampshire and has been featured in several regional books. Sarah went on to marry and have children of her own but was often asked to retell the story, which apparently she happily did.
Going Ballistic
1971 Warren NH – 3 Miles from the AT. The United States used the Redstone Missiles as nuclear weapons, space launch rockets, and sounding missiles in the late 50’s and early 60’s. As with all weapon systems, they have a shelf life and by the early 1970s the missiles were mainly in a field with their engines, guiding systems, and weapon capability removed, slowly rusting away. Enter Army Sergeant Ted Assalin.
Assalin loved the history of the rocket, and thought it would be a swell idea to put one up in a public park in the metropolis of Warren NH, population 900. The rocket would be an educational memorial to the Cold War and the early US Space Program. He gave his plan to the Army. He told his plan to the town of Warren. Nobody said no. He got a 60ft trailer and put the 8 ton rocket up in the park, where it sits today.
Next Chapter
The next days would be the most challenging we had seen on the trail. Fortunately, several unexpected allies helped us through. More on them and these challenges in the next issue.
