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What does a busy president want to eat? This White House chef has the answer

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What does a busy president want to eat? This White House chef has the answer

President Biden welcomes then White House executive chef Cristeta Comerford to the podium during a reception celebrating Asian American, Native Hawaiian and Pacific Islander Heritage Month in May.

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You know that old line, “Tell me what you eat and I’ll tell you who you are”? If that’s true, then Cristeta Comerford knows the last five presidents of the United States better than almost anyone.

Comerford just retired after nearly 30 years as White House chef. She cooked for presidents from Clinton to Biden, making everything from family snacks to state dinners.

Just days before she left D.C. and moved to Florida, she came to the NPR studios to look back on her career, and said she didn’t think about the barriers that she broke when she became the first woman and the first person of color to hold the top job in the White House kitchen.

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“I didn’t even realize that, because I was just doing what I wanted to do. I love to cook. It just so happens that I’m a minority woman,” she said. “But when I broke the glass ceiling, I didn’t realize that it was, like, news all over!”

That was in 2005 during the George W. Bush administration that she took the executive chef position.

Comerford sat down with All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro to talk about how she prepares to cook for the most powerful person in the world, how the food she sometimes chose connects to her youth, and what President Obama once said about her hamburgers.

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This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

Interview highlights

Ari Shapiro: You were born in the Philippines. You grew up one of 11 children in Manilla and you came to the U.S. at the age of 23. Did any of the presidents you worked for ask you to cook the food of your childhood, the food you grew up with?

Cristeta Comerford: President Obama, he lived in Hawaii for a while, so there’s a lot of Filipino communities there, so he’s very familiar with the Filipino food. So every now and then I’m, like, on the grill, and he’s like, “Hey, is that smelling good right there.”

Shapiro: Give us an example.

Comerford: The skewered pork, you know, that’s like a street food, but that’s something that I love very much. And then whenever I did that — I do beef as well, and chicken — he loves it.

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Comerford at the White House in 2012.

Comerford at the White House in 2012.

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Shapiro: That must have been so nice to share the food of your roots, of your childhood, in your job at the White House with the president

Comerford: Exactly, yes.

Shapiro: I think the last time the White House hosted a state dinner for the Philippines, if I’m not mistaken, was 2003 during the George W. Bush administration. What was that day like for you?

Comerford: It was amazing. Because actually, chef Walter Scheib — the executive chef then — asked me to write the menu. I actually did the press preview for [Philippine President Gloria] Macapagal-Arroyo at the time. So I was so excited. They chose lamb. I clearly remember, because it was, like, kind of unusual, like, “Lamb? For Filipinos?” But I’m like, “OK, if that’s what the guests want, we’re gonna do lamb.”

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First Lady Laura Bush with Comerford next to samples of the food that will be served during holiday parties in the State Dining Room in 2007.

First Lady Laura Bush with Comerford next to samples of the food that will be served during holiday parties in the State Dining Room in 2007.

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Shapiro: What did cooking for presidents show you about those leaders that even their chiefs of staff or their closest advisors might not have understood?

Comerford: I think at the end of the day, those presidents, they have the weight of the world on their shoulders. So the only thing that they want when they come home after working the Oval Office, dealing with whatever world or domestic events, is just to come home to a nice, home cooked meal.

So on a daily basis, we just really take care of them: “Hey, what do you like to eat?” And a part of being a chef is just reading the room, but reading a big room, because you have to watch the news. You have to keep up with what’s happening, because you almost kind of know what mood is your principal going to be in.

Shapiro: Oh interesting. You’re watching the news to see if it was a stressful day for the person you’re cooking for. So it’s like, “Oh, he’s gonna need grilled cheese and tomato soup” and the end of this day?

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Comerford: Yeah exactly. And people don’t teach us that. We just kind of know. I learned it from, actually, one of our butlers, because he was the one who explained to me, “Cris, he’s gonna be feeling tired today and just worn out. So give him what you got.”

Shapiro: If I were to ask all five presidents what dish Cris is best known for, do you think more than one of them would give me the same answer?

Comerford: I think two of them would give you the same answer. Because President Clinton’s favorite is enchiladas. And of course, so is President Bush’s. So they’ll give the same answer. I make a mean enchilada — homemade tortillas. It has to be homemade.

First Lady Michelle Obama greets Cristeta Comerford as she talks to visiting culinary students in 2009.

First Lady Michelle Obama greets Comerford as she talks to visiting culinary students in 2009.

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Shapiro: Did a president ever say to you, “Cris, you’re an extraordinary cook. But you know what? I don’t want the handmade tortilla. I want the American cheese wrapped in plastic that I grew up eating”?

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Comerford: Actually, it was President Obama. I was making this fancy cheeseburger for him. I made my own brioche dough, and he looked at it and he said, like, “I’m OK with just the grocery bun that you get.”

Shapiro: One of your former colleagues, the pastry chef Bill Yosses, told me that your philosophy of American cuisine is that it’s like jazz. What does that mean?

Comerford: It was a New York Times reporter who asked me the question of like, “Do you think French food is the best?” And we were in France. But what I said was true. I’m like, “Hey, look, all of the chefs, we’re all classically trained. Like, you know, a pianist is classically trained in music. But in America, we play jazz.”

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Shapiro: And what does that mean in terms of food?

Comerford: In terms of food, it’s like, every community, every minority groups — we’re a land of immigrants, so we share everything that we have. So by the time a food is made, it’s a totally different one than it was intended to be. It’s because it’s a beautiful melting pot.

Shapiro: It’s less about authenticity and more about improvisation, is that it?

Comerford: Exactly, yes.

Shapiro: Last I checked, the new White House chef, your successor, had not yet been announced. Do you have any words of advice for your successor?

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Comerford: I think I’m gonna give him the same word of advice that Walter Scheib gives to every chef: Basically, you leave your politics at the door. Because at the end of the day, we’re cooks, we’re chefs. We just want to make them happy with our food.

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Baz Luhrmann will make you fall in love with Elvis Presley

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Baz Luhrmann will make you fall in love with Elvis Presley

Elvis Presley in Las Vegas in Aug. 1970.

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“You are my favorite customer,” Baz Luhrmann tells me on a recent Zoom call from the sunny Chateau Marmont in Hollywood. The director is on a worldwide blitz to promote his new film, EPiC: Elvis Presley in Concert — which opens wide this week — and he says this, not to flatter me, but because I’ve just called his film a miracle.

See, I’ve never cared a lick about Elvis Presley, who would have turned 91 in January, had he not died in 1977 at the age of 42. Never had an inkling to listen to his music, never seen any of his films, never been interested in researching his life or work. For this millennial, Presley was a fossilized, mummified relic from prehistory — like a woolly mammoth stuck in the La Brea Tar Pits — and I was mostly indifferent about seeing 1970s concert footage when I sat down for an early IMAX screening of EPiC.

By the end of its rollicking, exhilarating 90 minutes, I turned to my wife and said, “I think I’m in love with Elvis Presley.”

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“I’m not trying to sell Elvis,” Luhrmann clarifies. “But I do think that the most gratifying thing is when someone like you has the experience you’ve had.”

Elvis made much more of an imprint on a young Luhrmann; he watched the King’s movies while growing up in New South Wales, Australia in the 1960s, and he stepped to 1972’s “Burning Love” as a young ballroom dancer. But then, like so many others, he left Elvis behind. As a teenager, “I was more Bowie and, you know, new wave and Elton and all those kinds of musical icons,” he says. “I became a big opera buff.”

Luhrmann only returned to the King when he decided to make a movie that would take a sweeping look at America in the 1950s, ’60s, and ’70s — which became his 2022 dramatized feature, Elvis, starring Austin Butler. That film, told in the bedazzled, kaleidoscopic style that Luhrmann is famous for, cast Presley as a tragic figure; it was framed and narrated by Presley’s notorious manager, Colonel Tom Parker, portrayed by a conniving and heavily made-up Tom Hanks. The dark clouds of business exploitation, the perils of fame, and an early demise hang over the singer’s heady rise and fall.

It was a divisive movie. Some praised Butler’s transformative performance and the director’s ravishing style; others experienced it as a nauseating 2.5-hour trailer. Reviewing it for Fresh Air, Justin Chang said that “Luhrmann’s flair for spectacle tends to overwhelm his basic story sense,” and found the framing device around Col. Parker (and Hanks’ “uncharacteristically grating” acting) to be a fatal flaw.

Personally, I thought it was the greatest thing Luhrmann had ever made, a perfect match between subject and filmmaker. It reminded me of Oliver Stone’s breathless, Shakespearean tragedy about Richard Nixon (1995’s Nixon), itself an underrated masterpiece. Yet somehow, even for me, it failed to light a fire of interest in Presley himself — and by design, I now realize after seeing EPiC, it omitted at least one major aspect of Elvis’ appeal: the man was charmingly, endearingly funny.

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As seen in Luhrmann’s new documentary, on stage, in the midst of a serious song, Elvis will pull a face, or ad lib a line about his suit being too tight to get on his knees, or sing for a while with a bra (which has been flung from the audience) draped over his head. He’s constantly laughing and ribbing and keeping his musicians, and himself, entertained. If Elvis was a tragedy, EPiC is a romantic comedy — and Presley’s seduction of us, the audience, is utterly irresistible.

Unearthing old concert footage 

It was in the process of making Elvis that Luhrmann discovered dozens of long-rumored concert footage tapes in a Kansas salt mine, where Warner Bros. stores some of their film archives. Working with Peter Jackson’s team at the post-production facility Park Road Post, who did the miraculous restoration of Beatles rehearsal footage for Jackson’s 2021 Disney+ series, Get Back, they burnished 50-plus hours of 55-year-old celluloid into an eye-popping sheen with enough visual fidelity to fill an IMAX screen. In doing so, they resurrected a woolly mammoth. The film — which is a creative amalgamation of takes from rehearsals and concerts that span from 1970 to 1972 — places the viewer so close to the action that we can viscerally feel the thumping of the bass and almost sense that we’ll get flecked with the sweat dripping off Presley’s face.

This footage was originally shot for the 1970 concert film Elvis: That’s The Way It Is, and its 1972 sequel, Elvis on Tour, which explains why these concerts were shot like a Hollywood feature: wide shots on anamorphic 35mm and with giant, ultra-bright Klieg lights — which, Luhrmann explains, “are really disturbing. So [Elvis] was very apologetic to the audience, because the audience felt a bit more self conscious than they would have been at a normal show. They were actually making a movie, they weren’t just shooting a concert.”

Luhrmann chose to leave in many shots where camera operators can be seen running around with their 16mm cameras for close-ups, “like they’re in the Vietnam War trying to get the best angles,” because we live in an era where we’re used to seeing cameras everywhere and Luhrmann felt none of the original directors’ concern about breaking the illusion. Those extreme close-ups, which were achieved by operators doing math and manually pulling focus, allow us to see even the pores on Presley’s skin — now projected onto a screen the size of two buildings.

The sweat that comes out of those pores is practically a character in the film. Luhrmann marvels at how much Presley gave in every single rehearsal and every single concert performance. Beyond the fact that “he must have superhuman strength,” Luhrmann says, “He becomes the music. He doesn’t mark stuff. He just becomes the music, and then no one knows what he’s going to do. The band do not know what he’s going to do, so they have to keep their eyes on him all the time. They don’t know how many rounds he’s going to do in ‘Suspicious Minds.’ You know, he conducts them with his entire being — and that’s what makes him unique.”

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Elvis Presley in Las Vegas in Aug. 1970.

Elvis Presley in Las Vegas in Aug. 1970.

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It’s not the only thing. The revivified concerts in EPiC are a potent argument that Elvis wasn’t just a superior live performer to the Beatles (who supplanted him as the kings of pop culture in the 1960s), but possibly the greatest live performer of all time. His sensual, magmatic charisma on stage, the way he conducts the large band and choir, the control he has over that godlike gospel voice, and the sorcerer’s power he has to hold an entire audience in the palm of his hands (and often to kiss many of its women on the lips) all come across with stunning, electrifying urgency.

Shaking off the rust and building a “dreamscape” 

The fact that, on top of it all, he is effortlessly funny and goofy is, in Luhrmann’s mind, essential to the magic of Elvis. While researching for Elvis, he came to appreciate how insecure Presley was as a kid — growing up as the only white boy in a poor Black neighborhood, and seeing his father thrown into jail for passing a bad check. “Inside, he felt very less-than,” says Luhrmann, “but he grows up into a physical Greek god. I mean, we’ve forgotten how beautiful he was. You see it in the movie; he is a beautiful looking human being. And then he moves. And he doesn’t learn dance steps — he just manifests that movement. And then he’s got the voice of Orpheus, and he can take a song like ‘Bridge Over Troubled Water’ and make it into a gospel power ballad.

“So he’s like a spiritual being. And I think he’s imposing. So the goofiness, the humor is about disarming people, making them get past the image — like he says — and see the man. That’s my own theory.”

Elvis has often been second-classed in the annals of American music because he didn’t write his own songs, but Luhrmann insists that interpretation is its own invaluable art form. “Orpheus interpreted the music as well,” the director says.

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In this way — as in their shared maximalist, cape-and-rhinestones style — Luhrmann and Elvis are a match made in Graceland. Whether he’s remixing Shakespeare as a ’90s punk music video in Romeo + Juliet or adding hip-hop beats to The Great Gatsby, Luhrmann is an artist who loves to take what was vibrantly, shockingly new in another century and make it so again.

Elvis Presley in Las Vegas in Aug. 1970.

Elvis Presley in Las Vegas in Aug. 1970.

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Luhrmann says he likes to take classic work and “shake off the rust and go, Well, when it was written, it wasn’t classical. When it was created, it was pop, it was modern, it was in the moment. That’s what I try and do.”

To that end, he conceived EPiC as “an imagined concert,” liberally building sequences from various nights, sometimes inserting rehearsal takes into a stage performance (ecstatically so in the song “Polk Salad Annie”), and adding new musical layers to some of the songs. Working with his music producer, Jamieson Shaw, he backed the King’s vocals on “Oh Happy Day” with a new recording of a Black gospel choir in Nashville. “So that’s an imaginative leap,” says Luhrmann. “It’s kind of a dreamscape.”

On some tracks, like “Burning Love,” new string arrangements give the live performances extra verve and cinematic depth. Luhrmann and his music team also radically remixed multiple Elvis songs into a new number, “A Change of Reality,” which has the King repeatedly asking “Do you miss me?” over a buzzing bass line and a syncopated beat.

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I didn’t miss Elvis before I saw EPiC — but after seeing the film twice now, I truly do.

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