Connect with us

Lifestyle

What does a busy president want to eat? This White House chef has the answer

Published

on

What does a busy president want to eat? This White House chef has the answer

President Biden welcomes then White House executive chef Cristeta Comerford to the podium during a reception celebrating Asian American, Native Hawaiian and Pacific Islander Heritage Month in May.

Mandel Ngan/AFP via Getty Images


hide caption

toggle caption

Advertisement

Mandel Ngan/AFP via Getty Images

You know that old line, “Tell me what you eat and I’ll tell you who you are”? If that’s true, then Cristeta Comerford knows the last five presidents of the United States better than almost anyone.

Comerford just retired after nearly 30 years as White House chef. She cooked for presidents from Clinton to Biden, making everything from family snacks to state dinners.

Just days before she left D.C. and moved to Florida, she came to the NPR studios to look back on her career, and said she didn’t think about the barriers that she broke when she became the first woman and the first person of color to hold the top job in the White House kitchen.

Advertisement

“I didn’t even realize that, because I was just doing what I wanted to do. I love to cook. It just so happens that I’m a minority woman,” she said. “But when I broke the glass ceiling, I didn’t realize that it was, like, news all over!”

That was in 2005 during the George W. Bush administration that she took the executive chef position.

Comerford sat down with All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro to talk about how she prepares to cook for the most powerful person in the world, how the food she sometimes chose connects to her youth, and what President Obama once said about her hamburgers.

Advertisement

This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity.

Interview highlights

Ari Shapiro: You were born in the Philippines. You grew up one of 11 children in Manilla and you came to the U.S. at the age of 23. Did any of the presidents you worked for ask you to cook the food of your childhood, the food you grew up with?

Cristeta Comerford: President Obama, he lived in Hawaii for a while, so there’s a lot of Filipino communities there, so he’s very familiar with the Filipino food. So every now and then I’m, like, on the grill, and he’s like, “Hey, is that smelling good right there.”

Shapiro: Give us an example.

Comerford: The skewered pork, you know, that’s like a street food, but that’s something that I love very much. And then whenever I did that — I do beef as well, and chicken — he loves it.

Advertisement
Comerford at the White House in 2012.

Comerford at the White House in 2012.

Susan Walsh/AP


hide caption

toggle caption

Susan Walsh/AP

Advertisement

Shapiro: That must have been so nice to share the food of your roots, of your childhood, in your job at the White House with the president

Comerford: Exactly, yes.

Shapiro: I think the last time the White House hosted a state dinner for the Philippines, if I’m not mistaken, was 2003 during the George W. Bush administration. What was that day like for you?

Comerford: It was amazing. Because actually, chef Walter Scheib — the executive chef then — asked me to write the menu. I actually did the press preview for [Philippine President Gloria] Macapagal-Arroyo at the time. So I was so excited. They chose lamb. I clearly remember, because it was, like, kind of unusual, like, “Lamb? For Filipinos?” But I’m like, “OK, if that’s what the guests want, we’re gonna do lamb.”

Advertisement
First Lady Laura Bush with Comerford next to samples of the food that will be served during holiday parties in the State Dining Room in 2007.

First Lady Laura Bush with Comerford next to samples of the food that will be served during holiday parties in the State Dining Room in 2007.

Saul Loeb/AFP via Getty Images


hide caption

toggle caption

Saul Loeb/AFP via Getty Images

Advertisement

Shapiro: What did cooking for presidents show you about those leaders that even their chiefs of staff or their closest advisors might not have understood?

Comerford: I think at the end of the day, those presidents, they have the weight of the world on their shoulders. So the only thing that they want when they come home after working the Oval Office, dealing with whatever world or domestic events, is just to come home to a nice, home cooked meal.

So on a daily basis, we just really take care of them: “Hey, what do you like to eat?” And a part of being a chef is just reading the room, but reading a big room, because you have to watch the news. You have to keep up with what’s happening, because you almost kind of know what mood is your principal going to be in.

Shapiro: Oh interesting. You’re watching the news to see if it was a stressful day for the person you’re cooking for. So it’s like, “Oh, he’s gonna need grilled cheese and tomato soup” and the end of this day?

Advertisement

Comerford: Yeah exactly. And people don’t teach us that. We just kind of know. I learned it from, actually, one of our butlers, because he was the one who explained to me, “Cris, he’s gonna be feeling tired today and just worn out. So give him what you got.”

Shapiro: If I were to ask all five presidents what dish Cris is best known for, do you think more than one of them would give me the same answer?

Comerford: I think two of them would give you the same answer. Because President Clinton’s favorite is enchiladas. And of course, so is President Bush’s. So they’ll give the same answer. I make a mean enchilada — homemade tortillas. It has to be homemade.

First Lady Michelle Obama greets Cristeta Comerford as she talks to visiting culinary students in 2009.

First Lady Michelle Obama greets Comerford as she talks to visiting culinary students in 2009.

Pool/Getty Images


hide caption

Advertisement

toggle caption

Pool/Getty Images

Shapiro: Did a president ever say to you, “Cris, you’re an extraordinary cook. But you know what? I don’t want the handmade tortilla. I want the American cheese wrapped in plastic that I grew up eating”?

Advertisement

Comerford: Actually, it was President Obama. I was making this fancy cheeseburger for him. I made my own brioche dough, and he looked at it and he said, like, “I’m OK with just the grocery bun that you get.”

Shapiro: One of your former colleagues, the pastry chef Bill Yosses, told me that your philosophy of American cuisine is that it’s like jazz. What does that mean?

Comerford: It was a New York Times reporter who asked me the question of like, “Do you think French food is the best?” And we were in France. But what I said was true. I’m like, “Hey, look, all of the chefs, we’re all classically trained. Like, you know, a pianist is classically trained in music. But in America, we play jazz.”

Advertisement

Shapiro: And what does that mean in terms of food?

Comerford: In terms of food, it’s like, every community, every minority groups — we’re a land of immigrants, so we share everything that we have. So by the time a food is made, it’s a totally different one than it was intended to be. It’s because it’s a beautiful melting pot.

Shapiro: It’s less about authenticity and more about improvisation, is that it?

Comerford: Exactly, yes.

Shapiro: Last I checked, the new White House chef, your successor, had not yet been announced. Do you have any words of advice for your successor?

Advertisement

Comerford: I think I’m gonna give him the same word of advice that Walter Scheib gives to every chef: Basically, you leave your politics at the door. Because at the end of the day, we’re cooks, we’re chefs. We just want to make them happy with our food.

Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Lifestyle

Taylor Swift Thanks Travis Kelce During VMA Awards Acceptance Speech

Published

on

Taylor Swift Thanks Travis Kelce During VMA Awards Acceptance Speech

Advertisement

Advertisement

Advertisement

Continue Reading

Lifestyle

Taylor Swift has endorsed Kamala Harris for president — will it matter?

Published

on

Taylor Swift has endorsed Kamala Harris for president — will it matter?

Pop superstar Taylor Swift endorsed Kamala Harris for president on Instagram on Tuesday.

Pedro Ugarte/AFP via Getty Images


hide caption

toggle caption

Advertisement

Pedro Ugarte/AFP via Getty Images

On Tuesday night, Taylor Swift made a much-anticipated endorsement – she’s backing Vice President Harris for president. “She fights for the rights and causes I believe need a warrior to champion them,” Swift wrote on Instagram. “I think she is a steady-handed, gifted leader and I believe we can accomplish so much more in this country if we are led by calm and not chaos.”

Last month, Republican presidential nominee Donald Trump reposted an AI-generated image of the pop star wearing an Uncle Sam outfit, in which he accepted her seeming endorsement of his campaign. The post appeared on the politician’s Truth Social network. (He’s since denied he knows anything about the images.)

But Swift wrote that this incident conjured up her fears around AI, and spurred her to share her “actual plans for this election as a voter.” Back when Trump posted the AI image, we took a look at the history of celebrity endorsements and their effects. You can read that story here:

Advertisement

Why celebrity endorsements matter

Celebrity endorsements are as much a thing in politics as they are in consumer products.

“Celebrities draw increased engagement, increased attention, and they increase conversation,” said Ashley Spillane, the author of a new study from Harvard’s Kennedy School on celebrity engagement in politics — focusing on civic participation. “And no matter the political party or the candidate, there is a real hunger to be affiliated with the celebrities that can do that.”

Spillane said her research shows you don’t have to be a star as big as Swift to influence voters.

“Some of the other folks with a smaller base were having just as significant an impact because they have an incredibly engaged base of support as well,” she said. 

Advertisement

There’s a long history of big names throwing their weight behind White House hopefuls. It extends back to 1920 when film stars Mary Pickford and Al Jolson endorsed Warren G. Harding.

Frank Sinatra explained his support of future president Ronald Reagan at a fundraising event in Boston in 1979.

“Why do I support Governor Reagan?” Sinatra said. “Because I think he’s the proper man to be President of the United States. Because it’s so screwed up now, we need someone to straighten it out.”

Oprah Winfrey offered her reasons for backing Barack Obama on The Larry King Show in 2007. “What he stands for, what he has proven he can stand for, what he has shown, was worth me going out on a limb for,” Winfrey said.

A 2008 study from Northwestern University assessed the impact of Winfrey’s endorsement of Obama. It showed the media star was responsible for around one million additional votes for the 44th president.

Advertisement

Celebrity endorsements can be tricky

But other research tells a different story.

For instance, a 2010 report from North Carolina State University found celebrity endorsements by George Clooney and Angelina Jolie did not help political candidates.

And having famous people cheerleading for your political campaign isn’t foolproof.

“It could backfire,” said Wharton School of Business professor of neuroscience, psychology, and marketing Michael Platt, the author of a 2023 study on celebrity endorsement. “Maybe it’s a celebrity that you don’t like or is not aligned with you politically.”

There’s also the potential problem of the celebrity being too famous. Platt calls this the “Vampire Effect.”

Advertisement

“They suck up all our attention, right?” he said. “Which means there’s less attention, less processing, that’s given to the candidate that you might be endorsing.”

The rise of fake AI celebrity endorsements

The rise of social media and deep-fakes created by artificial intelligence, such as those of Swift falsely appearing to endorse Trump, is also an issue.

“There have been manipulated celebrity photographs since the beginning of photography, certainly, but the rampant use of AI and its ubiquity are what is new,” said Douglas Mirell, an entertainment lawyer with the Los Angeles firm Greenberg Glusker who works to curb unauthorized uses of AI. “It is so pervasive and so potentially manipulable, that people can’t tell what’s true and what’s not true. So AI really does create a much more serious threat to the fundamental touchstone of democracy, which is truth-telling.”

Mirell said the impact of AI-generated images, on election results remains to be seen.

“When we’re talking about people like Taylor Swift or Beyoncé, their endorsements would be potentially very important,” he said. “And that’s why I think everyone really needs to be concerned about this issue.”

Advertisement

Continue Reading

Lifestyle

165 feet of ribbon, 13 hours of embroidery. The allure of a handmade Prada dress

Published

on

165 feet of ribbon, 13 hours of embroidery. The allure of a handmade Prada dress

As a young aspiring ballerina, I was transfixed by ribbons. Attached just so, winding up the ankle like a vine, tied expertly on the inside of the leg — to me, nothing completed a ballet slipper like a ribbon. I anticipated receiving my ribbons — normally achieved when a dancer reaches Grade 3 in the Royal Academy of Dance syllabus — more than graduating to pointe shoes. When I was finally old enough to accessorize my slippers, I took great care in my ribbon ritual. The ribbons were bubblegum pink when brand new, and I stayed up late, carefully dyeing them in a bath of boiling tea until they reached the correct shade to match my slippers and tights, before sewing them on by hand at the perfect, ergonomic angle. I reveled in the task of learning to tie my ribbons; it felt like an arrival. I was one step closer to looking and feeling like a real ballerina.

A model wearing a dress of pink ribbons.

In today’s fashion ecosystem, the versatility of a bow is on full display.

Ribbons are easy to romanticize, especially as we exit Brat Summer, where Charli XCX’s “Everything Is Romantic” has served as the sonic partner to the resurgence of ballet flats, puffy skirts and, yes, ribbons. The way a ribbon is styled communicates very different things — for example, not all ribbons are bows, yet a bow transforms a ribbon. In today’s fashion ecosystem, the versatility of a bow is on full display. London-based designer Simone Rocha’s bow earrings have become a staple. Fine and weightless, they finish any outfit. The Shanghai label Shushu/Tong employs bow maximalism, with every piece incorporating at least one bow, resulting in garments that are playful yet restrained. New York designer Sandy Liang’s summer collaboration with Salomon uses ribbons and bows for a refreshing twist on the gorp standard. And style influencers have been democratically tying bows on everything from over-ear headphones to bag straps to headbands.

In all its serene defiance, the Prada embroidered ribbon dress is also about a bow. In the brand’s autumn/winter 2024 women’s collection — aptly titled “Instinctive Romance” — designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons play with hard and soft, black and pink, tailored and relaxed, to propose fall’s most poetic take on romantic fashion, culminating with an embroidered ribbon dress, a sleeveless shift made of 35 hand-cut, -tied and -embroidered bows cascading from neck to knee. The bows danced as the models walked down the runway during the collection’s show at the Prada Foundation in Milan in tone-on-tone aubergine and baby pink iterations styled with black knee-high boots. The back of the dress featured an unexpected panel of black silk, minimal and bowless. When the models turned to march backstage, their ribbon tails confidently reached around from the front in buoyant embrace. (Chioma Nnadi, editor in chief of British Vogue, described the dress as the “bowment” of the season.)

Advertisement
Made in Prada Fragments of Romance
Made in Prada Fragments of Romance
“Made in Prada — Fragments of Romance”

“Made in Prada — Fragments of Romance” (Courtesy of Prada)

Wholly intentional, Prada’s design team used complex techniques to animate each bow. The first step involved positioning the ribbon embroidery in a classic chevron pattern. The embroiderer then cut the satin ribbons at precise angles to correspond with the pattern and secured the ribbons onto the fabric by hand. The preparation of 35 bows was next; they were shaped and ironed one by one before they were sewn at the specified points along the chevron pattern created by the ribbons. The next step involved attaching the embroidered fabric to the contrasting black silk lining, then a second pressing, followed by additional bows being sewn at the hips and around the neck. After 165 feet of ribbon and 13 hours of embroidery, a dress was complete.

Brought to life by craftsmanship that can be executed only by hand, the ribbons on this dress are alive. They speak, surely, but they don’t shout. Miuccia Prada’s long-standing love for ribbon is well documented at her other brand, Miu Miu, where inventive references to ballet and femininity are often the undercurrent of each collection. The Prada embroidered ribbon dress is the posh auntie’s version of Miu Miu’s preeminent and forever young buckle ballet flats. Both items prove that cute and tough can coincide in a way that only Prada can do.

For Image's Image Maker Issue - Prada
Fernanda wears embroidered dresses from “Instinctive Romance” Fall/Winter 2024 Prada collection.

Fernanda wears embroidered dresses from “Instinctive Romance” Fall/Winter 2024 Prada collection.

Advertisement

Long categorized as clichés of femininity, ribbons and bows have been reduced to stereotypes, rather than the compelling and versatile tool they are. Maybe the current resurgence of bows in fashion stems from the desire to reclaim this narrative while simultaneously romanticizing our lives in turbulent times. What could be less romantic than an election year? A bow is a hit of sweet to overpower the sour, but it’s also confident and fluid in its dimensions, expressing much more than it’s given credit for.

In rhythmic gymnastics, ribbons become an extension of the dancer’s body and punctuate every movement with equal parts control and abandon. Stevie Wonder used ribbons as a metaphor for endless love. From awareness ribbons to gift giving, ribbons are used to show compassion and care too. In many communities, ribbons and bows play a significant cultural role, from intricate hair braiding traditions in Guatemala to sacred ribbon skirts in Indigenous tribes across North America. What is a ribbon, then, but a vessel for deep connection and communication? A bow, however saccharine, is symbolic and powerful. A reclamation of cute and a potent, universal tool for self-expression. Call it the bow attitude.

Model Fernanda Álvarez
Hair and makeup Carla Perez
Styling assistant Deirdre Marcial

For Image's Image Maker Issue - Prada
black starburst graphic

Romany Williams is a writer, editor and stylist based on Vancouver Island, Canada. Her collaborators include SSENSE, Atmos, L.A. Times Image and more.

Advertisement

Continue Reading

Trending