Lifestyle
The Revenge of the Niche Fashion Magazine
On a snowy night just before Valentine’s Day, Cultured magazine gave a party for its February-March 2025 edition. It was held at Quarters, a TriBeCa space that is both a furniture store and a wine bar. The place was packed. The cover star, the actress Cristin Milioti, was there, and partygoers took turns posing in doorways or perched on sofas for their social media feeds.
“There has been an unexpected groundswell of support,” said Sarah Harrelson, the founder of Cultured, who has worked on publications her entire career, including InStyle and Women’s Wear Daily.
The first issue of Cultured, which combines the fashion and art worlds, appeared in 2012, when Ms. Harrelson was living in Miami, where she had worked for Ocean Drive magazine and started a magazine supplement for The Miami Herald.
“I think back now, and I was 38 and creatively bored,” she said. “I wanted to do something for myself and not have to heed the rules. Publishing had gotten formulaic.”
Independently produced print magazines with an emphasis on fashion are experiencing a boomlet of sorts, making waves for their striking design and high-quality production. There is Cultured but also L’Etiquette, Konfekt and Polyester, to name a few that line the racks of Casa Magazines, the West Village periodical store, and magCulture in London.
No longer seen as disposable or a relic of a dying industry, these magazines are regarded as high-end products. “It’s a luxury experience of sitting back and getting a single viewpoint coming to you that you didn’t know you wanted,” said Penny Martin, the editor in chief of The Gentlewoman, which could be said to have pioneered an indie print resurgence when it began in 2010.
Búzio Saraiva is the associate publisher of nine independent magazines, including Holiday and Luncheon, and the founder of Nutshell & Co., a company in Paris that works with other similar magazines.
“People behind independent magazines create material meant to last,” he said. “Someone will collect them, and then someone else will buy one at a flea market and make a moodboard out of it.”
Mr. Saraiva thinks of these magazines as vehicles for stylists, photographers, celebrities and writers to show off creativity in a way they might not be able to do in mainstream magazines. “It’s a lab,” he said. “It’s R&D for the creative industry. I see people taking pictures now that we shot 10 years ago. Not everyone is triple-checking to see if they’ve offended or please everyone.”
At first glance, independent magazines use a lot of the same celebrities that magazines owned by Hearst or Condé Nast work with. “A lot of time it’s the same cover and talents, but the interviewer or the photographer can be completely different,” said Joshua Glass, who started the food and fashion magazine Family Style in 2023. The spring 2025 issue has Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover interviewed by the curator Klaus Biesenbach and photographed by Brianna Capozzi.
A major difference, Mr. Glass said, was creative independence. Like many other indies, Family Style is majority self-financed. “I’m beholden to my own moral integrity, my peers and the people I employ,” he said.
“We are in the black,” Mr. Glass added. “We’re not flying private jets or taking town cars. We are extremely lean, and we do things in ways that are modest.”
Magazines like Cultured and Family Style generally rely on ways to stay afloat that are quite similar to those of mainstream print publications. They have advertisers who are happy to pay a cheaper rate for a smaller magazine with a younger audience.
“The tide has shifted,” said Nick Vogelson, who founded the culture, arts and fashion magazine Document in 2012. “Every brand sees the value of print media. Every season for 13 years, the advertising has grown.” This spring, Mr. Vogelson is adding a new magazine, Notes on Beauty.
“In my line of work, you don’t call them advertisers, you call them supporters,” Ms. Martin said, laughing. “It’s not just about display advertising, it’s about special projects, as they’re called. There are other ways to work with those partners who are looking for culturally engaged or high-net-worth readers.” The Gentlewoman has hosted an architecture tour in Los Angeles with Cos and a tour of the Chelsea Physic Garden in London with Vince, for example.
Here, a field guide to 10 of the new crop of fashion-leaning print magazines.
Notes on Beauty
For the first issue, spring 2025, Inez and Vinoodh photographed Julianne Moore for the cover with red rose petals stuffed in her mouth. There are stories on ancient wellness rituals and an essay about a writer deciding to forgo cosmetic treatments.
AFM
The A is for “A,” the “M” is for “Magazine,” and the “F” stands for something unprintable. Issue 001, with the theme “pursuits of happiness,” came out last fall, produced by the dating app Feeld, which proudly declared that more than half of its contributors were on the app. Feeld is one of a number of companies, including Mubi, the movie platform, and Metrograph, the movie theater, producing print spinoffs for their companies.
What if a fashion magazine was almost entirely photos of fashion? The fall 2024 issue of Heroine has short interviews with the actors Finn Bennett and Noah Jupe, but the highlight is the model Alice McGrath, photographed by Fabien Kruszelnicki and wearing a great deal of Celine.
Cultured
The most recent issue has several covers, including one with Cristin Milioti holding a lit cigarette, photographed by Chris Colls. The theme is art and film, and it has interviews with the director Luca Guadagnino, the Brazilian actress Fernanda Torres and the painter Torkwase Dyson.
Konfekt
Konfekt bills itself as “the magazine for sharp dressing, drinking, dining, travel and design.” It’s based in Zurich and often has a middle-European bent. Issue 17 includes profiles of a chef in Georgia (the country) and a calligrapher in Paris, and an interview with the Serbian-born fashion designer Dusan Paunovic.
Based in Paris, L’Etiquette puts an emphasis on personal style and the art of getting dressed. There are separate editions for men and women, and they’re perennially sold out on newsstands. Online, panels of fashion world denizens choose their favorite It bags, which turn out to be delightfully quirky and under the radar: an L.L. Bean suede tote, say, or a tiny Balenciaga shaped like a croissant.
Polyester
Polyester has a playful energy and a pop visual aesthetic reminiscent of 1990s magazines. Heroes to a certain kind of fashionable feminist are covered, like the winter 2024/2025 cover star Sofia Coppola or Chelsea Fairless and Lauren Garroni, the hosts of the “Every Outfit” podcast.
Patta
The namesake magazine of an Amsterdam shop, Patta has gained a cult following for its coverage of music and streetwear. The magazine takes a global view of culture with an emphasis on African-European connections. Its spring-summer issue has an interview with the Congolese-born director Baloji and an article on the rising EDM scene in Lagos.
Every edition of the midcentury magazine Holiday was dedicated to a different city. Writers included Truman Capote and Joan Didion. Fast-forward to spring 2014, and the design studio Atelier Franck Durand was given the go-ahead by the French publisher Lagardère to bring the magazine back, so strictly speaking, Holiday is not independently published. It still picks a city for each issue, the fall-winter one being New York. There is a vintage flavor in a reprint of the Joan Didion essay “Goodbye to All That,” but it also has Tommy Dorfman and Marc Jacobs in conversation.
Unconditional
“Made by Women, for Women,” Unconditional says, and the female gaze is apparent. Articles include a piece on lymphatic drainage practitioners in Paris and a profile of the designer Rachel Scott of the fashion line Diotima.
Lifestyle
Senate Democrats are investigating the Kennedy Center for ‘cronyism, corruption’
Leadership of the Kennedy Center is being investigated by Democrats.
The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts/KC1CT2746
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The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts/KC1CT2746
The ranking Democrat on the U.S. Senate Committee on Environment and Public Works, which oversees public buildings, is investigating leadership at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts for what he says are “millions in lost revenue, luxury spending, and preferential treatment for Trump allies.”
The committee’s ranking member Sen. Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) sent a letter outlining the claims to Kennedy Center president, Richard Grenell. Grenell denied the allegations in a letter that was posted to the Kennedy Center’s social media.
The Kennedy Center’s building is maintained by the federal government, though its programming and staff are supported by a combination of private and federal funds.
Whitehouse’s letter, plus documentation obtained by Democrats on the Senate committee, are posted on its website. The documents appear to show that non-arts groups are getting significant discounts on rental fees at the Kennedy Center. There is a copy of a contract with FIFA that shows the international soccer organization will not pay the usual $5 million in rental fees when it takes over the center for three weeks in order to announce next year’s World Cup draw, as first reported by The Washington Post.


Senate Democrats obtained copies of contracts given to Grenell’s friends and associates, worth tens of thousands of dollars.
In his letter to Grenell, Whitehouse said these and other actions show a “profound disregard” for leadership’s “fiduciary responsibility.”
Allegations of financial mismanagement come at a time of declining audiences, artist cancellations, layoffs and resignations at the Kennedy Center.
An analysis by The Washington Post found that ticket sales at the Kennedy Center have taken a nosedive; on average, 43% of tickets have not been sold since early September. On the same day as the Post‘s reporting, Grenell announced the center had raised “a record-breaking” $58 million from donors and sponsors in 30 days “with more on the horizon.”
In his response to Whitehouse, Grenell wrote that he is “concerned about your careless attacks on me and my team” and that the Senator’s letter is “filled with partisan attacks and false accusations.” Grenell denied Whitehouse’s claims and alleged financial mismanagement by the center’s previous leadership, including “a bloated staff” and “deferred maintenance” that “was quite literally making the building fall apart.” President Trump’s One Big Beautiful Bill Act includes $257 million for repairs, maintenance and restoration of the Kennedy Center.
Addressing the claim that FIFA will be using the center for free, instead of paying a $5 million rental fee to the Kennedy Center, Grenell said the international soccer organization has “given us several million dollars, in addition to paying all of the expenses for this event in lieu of a rental fee.…A simple rental fee would not have been enough to cover the magnitude of the event.”
Grenell has slammed previous Kennedy Center leadership a number of times. In this week’s letter to Whitehouse, he wrote that “for the first time in decades, we have a balanced budget at the Kennedy Center.” In May he told the Kennedy Center board the “deferred maintenance of the Kennedy Center is criminal.”

Former Kennedy Center president Deborah Rutter and board chair David Rubenstein rejected Grenell’s characterization of their work. Rutter wrote, “Perhaps those now in charge are facing significant financial gaps and are seeking to attribute them to past management.”
In a statement to NPR from May, Rubenstein said, “financial reports were reviewed and approved by the Kennedy Center’s audit committee and full board as well as a major accounting firm.” That audit committee included board members appointed by Trump during his first term, including U.S. Attorney General Pam Bondi. At the time, she was a special advisor to Trump and worked on his defense team during his Senate impeachment trial.
Whitehouse is requesting the Kennedy Center supply him with “documents and information about the Center’s financial management practices, expenditures, donors, and contracts under Grenell’s leadership by December 4, 2025.”
This story was edited by Jennifer Vanasco.
Lifestyle
L.A. Affairs: Los Angeles chewed me up and spit me out. Did my husband really want us to move there?
In the fall of 2019, my husband sat me down in our Hudson Valley kitchen, which overlooked our old birch. “I think I need to move back to Los Angeles,” he said.
I had just turned 50, and we’d been married for one year. I looked at him as if he’d suggested Mars.
“I know,” he said. “But I don’t think there’s enough work here.”
He had just finished directing a documentary. He wanted to return to the city where he had lived and worked in the industry for 17 years to see if he could drum up old connections for new work.
Was this a test? I remained silent while my mind reeled.
L.A. was never a place in which I imagined myself thriving. I first moved there after college to pursue acting and live with my mogul-wannabe boyfriend. We broke up within a month, and my life became a California cliche: I joined a cult-like spiritual practice with a glamorous Indian guru.
Although I found chanting and meditation to be very healing, after a year the relentless sunshine grated on my depressive nature and I moved back to my hometown of New York City, where I tried to hide my California woo-woo beneath a wardrobe of black.
When I’d return to L.A. to visit, my insecurities lined up like the palm trees on Hollywood Boulevard. After two days, I’d start eyeing my mushy backside with disdain in restaurant windows. My thick, curly hair made me temperature hot, while everyone around me was slim, tanned and sexy hot. I’d replay the time an agent told me to come back after I’d lost 15 pounds and how my troupe of college friends all got industry jobs and appeared to be thriving in the Hollywood ethos that felt so empty to me.
Moving back to L.A. as a middle-aged married woman felt like reconnecting with an ex with whom things ended badly. Had enough time passed that it could work? Or would all of our “issues” with each other return?
Back in my kitchen, my eyes fixated on the birch, its yellow-brown leaves clinging to its large, twisted frame. Its unique beauty drew me to the house that I’d bought years before my husband and I met. The pros and cons of life in our rural town flashed before me: my hard-won friends, the long, frigid winters, the affordability and the reliable rhythms of a seasonal life. I had lived most of my time here as a single person. Now I was a middle-aged part of a pair. Maybe it was time to compromise.
“OK,” I said, surprising myself. “It will be our adventure.”
We decided to give it six months. My writing and consulting work was portable, and there was something right about the idea of my husband and me creating a new life together. Although he is nine years my elder, his infectious, childlike enthusiasm about making dreams come true was rubbing off on me. We just didn’t count on the world shutting down a month after we moved in the winter of 2020.
At first, L.A. was a terrific place for the shutdown, because we could walk each day in the beautiful sunshine, which I no longer minded one bit, to a stunning view of the coast. Our weekly trips to the grocery store included a traffic-free drive up PCH to a less-crowded supermarket, the ocean sparkling on our left. As my East Coast friends complained in Zoom squares about the cold, we got to hike and take lunch breaks on the Malibu cliffs. Soon we noticed Angelenos gathering with their friends in their backyards for cookouts.
Still, it was a pandemic. Even with the daily walks, my body rebelled from so much sitting. My hips froze, and I limped around our small apartment like Al Pacino playing Richard the III. Our dog, raised in a country house, barked like a banshee at every door closing in the apartment complex, driving us and our neighbors insane. Then, my husband’s mother died alone in a nursing home on the other side of the country. Grief hung over our lives like a marine layer obscuring the view of Catalina. I entered menopause, and my new brain fog only added to the haze. Some adventure.
We found new ways to cope. We bought used bikes on Facebook Marketplace and started biking everywhere. One day, as I arrived breathless at the top of a Mar Vista crest, I saw the ocean behind me and the snow-capped mountains in the distance. The view managed to take whatever breath I had left away. Despite the doom, I felt elated.
In late summer, we drove back east to check on our family and house, which had been rented by some city folk. But we no longer fit. The Hudson Valley charm was dampened by the sensation of wading through 95-degree humid soup. The clothes and books in our old garage didn’t feel like ours anymore, and I felt a strange desire to just give them away. The light and rhythms of L.A. had seduced me.
When we returned, things started to fall into place. We got vaccines. We met in the courtyard with neighbors — the ones who didn’t hate our dog. We figured out how to sell our property back east and finance one in L.A. (for our dog). We made great friends with our new neighbors, one of whom is an actor and not in the least bit flaky. And then, at the farmers market, a friendly vendor was talking to another regular about their aches and pains.
“She’s too young to understand,” he interrupted himself to nod at me. “You’ve got years to go before you reach this point.”
I was 54. It appeared the “coastal ex” and I were indeed having a rapprochement.
These days, I notice fuchsia bursts of bougainvillea instead of my mushy backside. But L.A. has also brought disappointment, financial hardship and the necessity to face hard truths. DOGE (or the White House’s Department of Government Efficiency) slashed the budgets of organizations I work with in my consulting business. And because of COVID-19 and changes in the industry, my husband, the one gung ho about moving back, ended up being the one to struggle. He is in the midst of a brave and grueling career pivot.
It is still our adventure. In midlife, with the right partner and the self-acceptance that getting older brings, I no longer feel the city is stacked against me. We hold on to each other in this complex phase of life and in this vibrant, complex town. And when things feel hopeless, we step outside our door and watch the golden light stream through our old California elm.
The author is a writer and leadership consultant with bylines in HuffPost, Oldster, Longreads, Brevity and more. Her debut memoir, “This Incredible Longing: Finding My Self in a Near-Cult Experience,” will be published by Heliotrope Books in February.
L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.
Lifestyle
Thanksgiving 2025 Hot Takes
The mashed potatoes might be lukewarm once they hit the table, but the opinions shared on and about Thanksgiving are never short of piping hot. We asked the people most moved by the holiday — recipe developers, food writers, chefs and other tastemakers — for their most enlightened and provocative takes, whether on the familial faux pas or the dishes that make the meal. Pick your sides below, and at your own feast while you’re at it. (The following takes have been edited and condensed.)
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