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Paris Exhibition to Focus on Art Nouveau and Beyond

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Paris Exhibition to Focus on Art Nouveau and Beyond

On June 2, Van Cleef & Arpels is to unveil “A New Art: Metamorphoses of Jewelry, 1880-1914,” an exhibition in Paris focusing on almost 100 items from a period that included the Art Nouveau era, many designed by the foremost artisans of the age, like René Lalique, Georges Fouquet and Henri Vever.

“Art Nouveau is a topic that we had not covered in the past in our exhibitions, and we do, when we program our shows, always try to look at different angles, different time periods, as well as different cultures,” said Lise Macdonald, the president of the brand’s L’École, School of Jewelry Arts. Its most recent show featured gold ornaments from China over several centuries.

Reservations can be made on the school’s website for the free exhibition, to be held in L’École’s 18th-century building near Place Vendôme through Sept. 30 (with a hiatus from Aug. 5-21). Most of the exhibits, on loan from brands and institutions like the Musée d’Orsay, have distinctively Art Nouveau details: curving lines, a combination of precious materials and commonplace ones like glass and pewter, and imagery inspired by nature or fantasy.

But the movement, which had its heyday from about 1890 to 1910, was not limited to jewelry. “The vision of Art Nouveau was that all of the arts are touched by it,” said Paul Paradis, a teacher at L’École who worked on the exhibition. “It was a total design concept, from the ceiling to the floor to the door handles.”

None of the jewelry — including a Lalique necklace in gold, enamel, glass and platinum with dangling pendants that resemble women with vivid green and cobalt butterfly wings around their legs — was made by Van Cleef, which opened its first store in 1906 on Place Vendôme.

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“The mandate of the school is not to focus on Van Cleef & Arpels,” Ms. Macdonald said; it is meant “to speak to the larger audience on the history of jewelry, on its know-how and on gemology.” During the period represented in the exhibition, Van Cleef was focusing more “on abstractions and symmetry and the trend of Art Deco.”

Joanna Hardy, a fine jewelry specialist based in London who is not affiliated with the school, said L’École is more concerned with education than it is with marketing. “Just because they didn’t make it, doesn’t mean to say they wouldn’t show it,” she said.

Nonetheless, the show’s theme seems to reinforce the brand’s positioning.

Van Cleef is “trying to use Nouveau to say, ‘We are about craftsmanship — it’s not just about the gold you buy or the diamonds you buy,’” said Akshay Madane, a partner at the management consulting firm Kearney.

Other luxury brands have used museum sponsorships and exhibitions to sell similar stories, he said. “They’re trying to educate and inspire, and they’re doing it slowly in a subtle way so as not to come across as sales-y, because that’s not what these brands are about.”

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Dabney Coleman, who starred in '9 to 5' and 'Tootsie', dies at 92

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Dabney Coleman, who starred in '9 to 5' and 'Tootsie', dies at 92

Dabney Coleman, who starred in “9 to 5” and “Tootsie,” appears in Los Angeles on Nov. 14, 1988. The actor died Thursday at his home in Santa Monica, Calif.

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Dabney Coleman, who starred in “9 to 5” and “Tootsie,” appears in Los Angeles on Nov. 14, 1988. The actor died Thursday at his home in Santa Monica, Calif.

Nick Ut/AP

NEW YORK — Dabney Coleman, the mustachioed character actor who specialized in smarmy villains like the chauvinist boss in “9 to 5” and the nasty TV director in “Tootsie,” has died. He was 92.

Coleman died Thursday at his home in Santa Monica, his daughter, Quincy Coleman, said in a statement to The Associated Press. She said he “took his last earthly breath peacefully and exquisitely.”

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“The great Dabney Coleman literally created, or defined, really — in a uniquely singular way — an archetype as a character actor. He was so good at what he did it’s hard to imagine movies and television of the last 40 years without him,” Ben Stiller wrote on X.

For two decades Coleman labored in movies and TV shows as a talented but largely unnoticed performer. That changed abruptly in 1976 when he was cast as the incorrigibly corrupt mayor of the hamlet of Fernwood in “Mary Hartman, Mary Hartman,” a satirical soap opera that was so over the top no network would touch it.

Producer Norman Lear finally managed to syndicate the show, which starred Louise Lasser in the title role. It quickly became a cult favorite. Coleman’s character, Mayor Merle Jeeter, was especially popular and his masterful, comic deadpan delivery did not go overlooked by film and network executives.

A six-footer with an ample black mustache, Coleman went on to make his mark in numerous popular films, including as a stressed out computer scientist in “War Games,” Tom Hanks’ father in “You’ve Got Mail” and a fire fighting official in “The Towering Inferno.”

He won a Golden Globe for “The Slap Maxwell Story” and an Emmy Award for best supporting actor in Peter Levin’s 1987 small screen legal drama “Sworn to Silence.” Some of his recent credits include “Ray Donovan” and a recurring role on “Boardwalk Empire,” for which he won two Screen Actors Guild Awards.

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In the groundbreaking 1980 hit “9 to 5,” he was the “sexist, egotistical, lying, hypocritical bigot” boss who tormented his unappreciated female underlings — Jane Fonda, Lily Tomlin and Dolly Parton — until they turned the tables on him.

In 1981, he was Fonda’s caring, well-mannered boyfriend, who asks her father (played by her real-life father, Henry Fonda) if he can sleep with her during a visit to her parents’ vacation home in “On Golden Pond.”

Opposite Dustin Hoffman in “Tootsie,” he was the obnoxious director of a daytime soap opera that Hoffman’s character joins by pretending to be a woman. Among Coleman’s other films were “North Dallas Forty,” “Cloak and Dagger,” “Dragnet,” “Meet the Applegates,” “Inspector Gadget” and “Stuart Little.” He reunited with Hoffman as a land developer in Brad Silberling’s “Moonlight Mile” with Jake Gyllenhaal.

Coleman’s obnoxious characters didn’t translate quite as well on television, where he starred in a handful of network comedies. Although some became cult favorites, only one lasted longer than two seasons, and some critics questioned whether a series starring a lead character with absolutely no redeeming qualities could attract a mass audience.

“Buffalo Bill” (1983-84) was a good example. It starred Coleman as “Buffalo Bill” Bittinger, the smarmy, arrogant, dimwitted daytime talk show host who, unhappy at being relegated to the small-time market of Buffalo, New York, takes it out on everyone around him. Although smartly written and featuring a fine ensemble cast, it lasted only two seasons.

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Another was 1987’s “The Slap Maxwell Story,” in which Coleman was a failed small-town sportswriter trying to save a faltering marriage while wooing a beautiful young reporter on the side.

Other failed attempts to find a mass TV audience included “Apple Pie,” “Drexell’s Class” (in which he played an inside trader) and “Madman of the People,” another newspaper show in which he clashed this time with his younger boss, who was also his daughter.

He fared better in a co-starring role in “The Guardian” (2001-2004), which had him playing the father of a crooked lawyer. And he enjoyed the voice role as Principal Prickly on the Disney animated series “Recess” from 1997-2003.

Underneath all that bravura was a reserved man. Coleman insisted he was really quite shy. “I’ve been shy all my life. Maybe it stems from being the last of four children, all of them very handsome, including a brother who was Tyrone Power-handsome. Maybe it’s because my father died when I was 4,” he told The Associated Press in 1984. “I was extremely small, just a little guy who was there, the kid who created no trouble. I was attracted to fantasy, and I created games for myself.”

As he aged, he also began to put his mark on pompous authority figures, notably in 1998’s “My Date With the President’s Daughter,” in which he was not only an egotistical, self-absorbed president of the United States, but also a clueless father to a teenager girl.

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Dabney Coleman — his real name — was born in 1932 in Austin, Texas After two years at the Virginia Military Academy, two at the University of Texas and two in the Army, he was a 26-year-old law student when he met another Austin native, Zachry Scott, who starred in “Mildred Pierce” and other films.

“He was the most dynamic person I’ve ever met. He convinced me I should become an actor, and I literally left the next day to study in New York. He didn’t think that was too wise, but I made my decision,” Coleman told The AP in 1984.

Early credits included such TV shows as “Ben Casey,” “Dr Kildare,” “The Outer Limits,” “Bonanza,” “The Mod Squad” and the film “The Towering Inferno.” He appeared on Broadway in 1961 in “A Call on Kuprin.” He played Kevin Costner’s father on “Yellowstone.”

Twice divorced, Coleman is survived by four children, Meghan, Kelly, Randy and Quincy, and the grandchildren Hale and Gabe Torrance, Luie Freundl and Kai and Coleman Biancaniello.

“My father crafted his time here on earth with a curious mind, a generous heart, and a soul on fire with passion, desire and humor that tickled the funny bone of humanity,” Quincy Coleman wrote in his honor.

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Dean McDermott Claps Back at Trolls After Tori Spelling Supports Relationship

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Dean McDermott Claps Back at Trolls After Tori Spelling Supports Relationship

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'Wait Wait' for May 18, 2024: With Not My Job guest Maya Hawke

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'Wait Wait' for May 18, 2024: With Not My Job guest Maya Hawke

This week’s show was recorded at the Studebaker Theater in Chicago, with guest host Alzo Slade, judge and scorekeeper Bill Kurtis, Not My Job guest Maya Hawke and panelists Negin Farsad, Adam Burke and Faith Salie. Click the audio link above to hear the whole show.

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Maya Hawke attends the North Shore Animal League America's 2023 Celebration Of Rescue at Tribeca 360 in New York City.

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