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Leigh Magar, High-End Milliner Turned Indigo Artist, Dies at 57

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Leigh Magar, High-End Milliner Turned Indigo Artist, Dies at 57

Leigh Magar, a milliner turned textile artist, slow-fashion designer and indigo grower who created handmade garments and artworks, died on April 16 at her home on Kauai, in Hawaii. She was 57.

The cause of death was breast cancer, her husband, Johnny Tucker, said. Last summer, the couple moved to Kauai from Johns Island, S.C., to give Ms. Magar a tropical respite.

Before she grew her own indigo, fermenting the leaves to create the deep blue dye prized by ancient Mesopotamians and using it to embellish her fabric designs and artwork — a practice known as “seed-to-stitch” that mimics the ethos of the farm-to-table food movement — Ms. Magar was a high-end milliner.

For decades, she made singular hats from her studio in Charleston, S.C., selling them at a storefront boutique, Magar Hatworks, and at Barneys New York and other high-end outlets.

Her creations were fanciful and bold. She made sculptural millinery that defied description: confections of feathers, fabric and felt, as well as more conventional, if elevated, fare — bespoke trilbies, pork pies and Panamas that were sought after by artists and performers, including Eartha Kitt, Nick Cave and Michael Stipe, for whom she made a deconstructed felt fedora.

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She and Mr. Tucker, an architect and artist, were an integral part of Charleston’s creative community, said Mark Sloan, a former director and chief curator of the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art there.

For a time, the couple lived in a vine-covered former candy shop at the back of a property in the historic district. During their tenure, it was all bohemian funk and decay — a Southern gothic artist’s atelier — with plaster flaking off the walls and exposed lath, battered antiques and statuary, vintage appliances and found artwork.

“They had the air of people not of this time,” Mr. Sloan said, recalling an early visit during which Ms. Magar was hard at work steaming her creations on antique hat blocks. “There was a certain drama to their lives.”

Of her hats, he added: “The shapes were outrageous, and so beautiful. Some looked like underwater sea creatures, or single-celled organisms.”

Mr. Sloan included a few in his 2005 group exhibition “Alive Inside: The Lure and Lore of the Sideshow,” which spread out over four locations in Charleston, including Ms. Magar’s King Street storefront. For the show, she designed hats for imaginary sideshow performers — including a tiara for a human pincushion, a spiky crown made from knitting needles.

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By 2013, however, Ms. Magar had closed her store and started working with textiles, hand-dyeing fabric with various botanicals and other materials and selling them under the name Madame Magar. During one artist’s residency in a former mill town, she began experimenting with dyes made from rusty railroad ties.

Also in 2013, she and Mr. Tucker moved to Johns Island, where they rented a modernist house on nearly 400 acres. Ms. Magar began to research the site of their new home, where a cotton and indigo plantation had once stood. She learned that in the 18th century, plantations on the island began growing indigo with the labor of enslaved Africans, many of whom brought with them from their home countries methods for cultivating the plants and extracting the dye.

Indigo was a boom crop throughout the Lowcountry. Eliza Lucas Pinckney, the daughter of a Charleston-area plantation owner, is often credited (though perhaps not quite accurately) with starting the boom in 1738, the year she turned 16 and took over the management of her first plantation.

When Ms. Magar decided to grow indigo herself, and to use it in her work, she had to reckon with the plant’s tainted history. “I had to go through the light and dark of it,” she told The New York Times in 2024. “It was ‘open your eyes, white girl.’”

Seeds were not easy to come by. Through South Carolina’s indigo community, a zesty cohort of makers and growers, she met Father John, an Eastern Orthodox monk who had been growing indigo for decades and using it in his artwork. (Why indigo? “As a monk, one often develops a heightened focus,” he said in an interview, “and learns how to sublimate.”)

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He shared seeds and tips with her, as did Arianne King Comer, a Charleston-based indigo artist and grower. Thus armed, Ms. Magar planted her own patch and began to experiment with techniques for extracting the dye from the plant and for dyeing fabric.

“She really ran with it,” said Father John, whose order traditionally forgoes surnames. “She tried it all.”

One day while bushwhacking at home, she followed a blue dragonfly through the brush and discovered a patch of wild indigo, likely descended from a crop that had been grown on Johns Island three centuries earlier. She felt it was a sign, and began to tend that patch, too.

At that point, she was well and truly hooked, captivated by all things indigo — not an unusual trajectory for artists who come in contact with the stuff.

“We’re like cigarette smokers,” Ms. King Comer said. “We can’t help ourselves.”

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Ms. Magar made shift dresses dipped in indigo, and baskets and rag dolls woven from fabric scraps. She followed the Japanese practice of shibori, which involves folding fabric before placing it in the dye — essentially, an extremely precise version of tie-dye. She made collages from indigo squares; housewares like napkins and coasters; and epic quilts and portraits that she called scrap silhouettes. Among her subjects were Nina Simone and Eliza Lucas Pinckney.

“Indigo is the never-ending story of the Lowcountry,” Virginia Theerman, the curator of historic textiles at the Charleston Museum, said in an interview. “Today, there’s a community of artisans and farmers involved in a growing cottage industry.”

Ms. Magar “was coming at it from an artist’s perspective,” she added. “It was personal, yet tied into the history of indigo here, and to women’s history. Hers was a single-minded vision, and she was both passionate and exacting about her work.”

Jennifer Leigh Magar was born on June 30, 1968, in Spartanburg, S.C., and raised by her mother, Jennifer (Edwards) Fly, and her stepfather, John Fly, a textile executive.

Spartanburg is a former mill town, and Leigh’s maternal grandmother and great-aunt worked in the mills. She remembered them coming home flecked with lint from their labors.

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Still, textiles were not her first love. She briefly studied culinary arts at Johnson & Wales University in Charleston, and worked for a time as a chef there, when she met Mr. Tucker, an architecture student at Clemson University.

They moved to New York City together in the early 1990s, and Ms. Magar studied millinery techniques at the Fashion Institute of Technology, graduating in 1995. Soon after, she and Mr. Tucker returned to Charleston; they married in 1997.

In addition to Mr. Tucker, she is survived by her mother and stepfather; a brother, Brian Magar; two stepsisters, Caroline and Katherine Fly; and a stepbrother, Ashley Fly.

Ms. Magar’s cancer was diagnosed in 2023. A year later, she began to work on a piece for “Reimagined Fashion: Creations of the Future Past,” an exhibition that opened at the Charleston Museum in 2025.

One of 18 local designers invited to make something inspired by the museum’s collections, she was drawn to the 19th-century quilt squares and to a collection of late 19th-century hair wreaths. (The wreaths are Victorian memento mori, made from twisting and braiding a loved one’s hair into flowers and leaves; they are beautiful and deeply weird.)

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For the exhibit, she made what she called a Healing Gown. It had a Victorian feeling, with a nipped waist and trailing skirt. The bodice she fashioned from scraps of indigo-dyed fabric, a ruffle of feathers and her own waist-length hair, which she had cut off before starting chemotherapy; the skirt was made from hospital sheets.

At her death, Ms. Magar had moved on from indigo. She was working with Kauai’s iron-rich volcanic soil, practicing a technique called dirt dyeing. She was excited about orange.

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‘Hellions’ author Julia Elliott wins $150K fiction prize

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‘Hellions’ author Julia Elliott wins 0K fiction prize

Author Julia Elliott won for her short story collection Hellions.

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Writer Julia Elliott has won this year’s Carol Shields Prize for Fiction for her short story collection Hellions. The award honors work by women and nonbinary authors in the U.S. and Canada.

Elliott, who also authored the novel The New and Improved Romie Futch and the short story collection The Wilds, is known for blending elements of Southern gothic horror, surrealism and fairy tale. Hellions, published in 2025, includes stories set against backdrops like a plague-stricken medieval convent, a feminist art colony, and small Southern towns.

“This eerie, eclectic, genre-leaping collection takes no half-measures; every sentence of Hellions crackles or crawls,” wrote the prize jury in a statement. “Here, human folly moves against a backdrop of horror and magic … But for all its wildness, there is tremendous control.”

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The prize, named after a Pulitzer Prize-winning novelist, awards $150,000 to one winner each year. Novels, short story collections, and graphic novels by women and nonbinary authors are eligible.

This year’s finalists included Quiara Alegría Hudes (The White Hot), Lee Lai (Cannon), Megha Majumdar (A Guardian and a Thief), and Sonya Walger (Lion). They will each receive $12,500.

The Carol Shields Prize went to writer Canisia Lubrin in 2025.

You can listen to actor Donna Lynne Champlin read Elliott’s story “Hellion” on the Death, Sex & Money podcast here.

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Video: The Fashion References in ‘Cats: The Jellicle Ball’

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Video: The Fashion References in ‘Cats: The Jellicle Ball’

new video loaded: The Fashion References in ‘Cats: The Jellicle Ball’

Cats: The Jellicle Ball” has received nine Tony nominations, including one for Qween Jean, the costume designer. Our chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman, joins our chief theater critic Helen Shaw to talk with Qween Jean and to uncover some of the show’s hidden references.

By Helen Shaw, Vanessa Friedman, Léo Hamelin, Laura Salaberry and Sutton Raphael

June 2, 2026

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Inside the all-masc lesbian and translesbian revue electrifying L.A. nightlife

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Inside the all-masc lesbian and translesbian revue electrifying L.A. nightlife

At around 1 in the morning at the Sassafras Saloon in Hollywood, four masc lesbians in cowboy hats and chaps were dancing on top of the bar while bartenders attempted to continue making espresso martinis beneath them.

One performer crawled into the crowd and between the spread legs of an audience member, licking the air between their thighs. Another wrapped a belt around their girlfriend’s neck while thrusting against her to Bon Jovi’s “You Give Love a Bad Name.” The ravenous audience, almost entirely women, fluttered dollar bills all around, while easily filling the saloon’s 300-person capacity.

Across Los Angeles, countless strip clubs and revue shows were unfolding at that same hour, though none quite like this and likely few provoking this level of frenzy. The night had all the riotous energy of a scene from “Coyote Ugly,” with the choreographed masculinity of “Magic Mike.” Playing on the latter’s name, this was the doing of Magic Mascs, an all-masc lesbian and translesbian revue, by sapphics for sapphics.

Skye Valentinez, from left, Alexa Legend, Daddii Syd and King Captain are members of Magic Mascs, an all-masc lesbian and translesbian collective, that started in February.

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“Our idea was to give lesbians what men get all the time at a strip club, but instead of just sitting around and singing ‘Pink Pony Club,’ actually going wild,” said group founder Daddii Syd, a.k.a. Syd Latimore.

The performers, self-described “daddies” — Daddii Syd, Alexa Legend, Skye Valentinez and King Captain — formed Magic Mascs in February. The performance at the Saloon was their third overall, but the group has already become an institution within lesbian nightlife in Los Angeles. They will make their debut during a Pride Month performance on Friday at Womxn Pride’s rooftop party in downtown L.A.

The members come from professional dance backgrounds. King Captain entered dance school at age 12 and taught dance for nearly a decade. Daddii Syd has danced since childhood. Alexa Legend spent years go-go dancing across clubs in the city before joining the troupe. Skye Valentinez, the baby of the group — cherub-faced, smiling through braces — is the newest to performing, though she steps into it naturally, exhibiting the same living, breathing caricature of masculinity as the rest of them.

“No one’s trying to be cisgender,” King Captain makes clear. “We’re not trying to be the kind of men who are born into and fed by patriarchy,” Daddii Syd added. “We’re redefining masculinity.”

King Captain gets their underwear stuffed with dollar bills from the crowd.

King Captain gets their underwear stuffed with dollar bills from the crowd.

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Magic Mascs’ success follows a broader trend of lesbians confidently stepping into masculinity before hungry eyes. In the past year, performative masc competitions have appeared across the country, with lesbians — hair slicked back and carabiners dangling from their Carhartt jeans — showing off in front of leering crowds. Magic Mascs feels like a more professionalized version of that phenomenon, less tongue-in-cheek — just tongue.

“We always knew there was a huge hunger for this,” Daddii Syd said.

Their first performance, in San Diego, sold out fast.

“I knew right away we were onto something special,” Daddii Syd said.

Videos of the troupe traveled far across sapphics’ algorithms, especially clips of King Captain, whose devoted fan base — known collectively as “The Castle” — make arduous trips just to see them in the flesh. One fan drove more than 20 hours from Dallas to San Diego to see Magic Mascs. Another sent an edible fruit bouquet from Australia.

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Backstage, every gesture from the troupe was ultra-confident. Captain, wearing briefs stuffed with a sock full of rice, talked to me with a leg cocked on the footrest of my stool. Daddii Syd, Alexa Legend and Skye Valentinez stood pelvis-forward, hands behind their heads, flexing ropey muscles. They loved the camera, eyeing it like prey while tipping the brims of their cowboy hats. (“You guys are like the modern-day Beatles,” our photographer said.)

King Captain gets the Hollywood crowd into a frenzy during a recent show.

King Captain gets the Hollywood crowd into a frenzy during a recent show.

Everything in the show revolved around their hips. The performers rolled and glided before delivering sudden, mechanical thrusts powerful enough to rattle nearby glasses. Their bodies were taut with effort and exaggerated lust. Daddii Syd performed with her girlfriend Jamie in matching plaid, not leaving much to the imagination as they licked whipped cream off each other.

Alexa Legend, who described herself as shy offstage, eventually stripped down to nipple pasties and a cowboy hat, firing confetti from her crotch into the crowd. King Captain swerved their hips like a powerful mechanical bull. “Oh, Captain, my captain,” someone in the crowd said, hand pressed dramatically to her forehead.

They paid particular attention to a woman in a wheelchair in the crowd — typical of their performances — asking if they could sit on the wheelchair. They received keen consent. “That was, um, very nice,” she told me after, still a little lost for words.

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“We’re huge on consent,” Daddii Syd said. At the start of the show, they told the crowd to cross their arms in a Wakanda Forever pose if they didn’t wish to be touched. They checked in constantly while moving through the crowd, leaning close to ask questions like, “Is this OK?” and “Anywhere you don’t like to be touched?”

Captain learned these habits through work in intimacy coordination and under the mentorship of Tonia Sina, among the first professional intimacy coordinators in Hollywood. That ethos of care extended beyond their interactions with the audience and into the way they interacted with one another offstage.

Performer King Captain of Magic Mascs take a tip from a fan.

“We want everyone in the crowd to feel gorgeous,” King Captain said before the recent show at Sassafras Saloon in Hollywood.

Performer King Captain, left, and Lauren Henson, a stage kitten for the group, perform together on the bar.

King Captain, left, and Lauren Henson, a stage kitten for the Magic Mascs, perform together on the bar.

Forming a sanctuary for themselves was just as important to the troupe as emboldening others’ desire. “It’s hard to find other masc friends,” Daddii Syd said. “Everybody’s weirdly competitive and trying to sabotage each other.” King Captain agreed, asking: “Why can’t we all be daddies at the same time?”

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Daddii Syd and King Captain, who are both in their 30s, had little butch representation or friendship growing up and they have now become something like father figures to Alexa Legend and Skye Valentinez, who are in their 20s.

“We have to protect each other,” King Captain said. “We have to look out for each other.”

Daddii Syd put her arm around Skye Valentinez and said: “Look at this beautiful baby we have.”

That tenderness carried straight into the night. There was a striking seriousness to the whole performance, which spanned from just past 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. Unlike a bachelorette party or the typical male revue, there was no giggling in the room, and no wink of camp from the performers. Here was a rare claim to unabashed public sapphic desire; it was given the scale and seriousness routinely afforded to heterosexual display, like the gleeful bravado of a man striding into Hooters.

By the end of the night at Sassafras Saloon, the performers had stripped down nearly to nothing, pouring water over themselves while the audience roared. The atmosphere felt like one of collective release, a recognition that masculinity and desire don’t belong only to men — that a group of four masc lesbians can be horny, inspire horniness and ultimately stir a hysteria that once greeted Channing Tatum or even the Beatles.

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It was the magnitude of the response that night at the Saloon, as on every other night they’ve performed, that’s inspiring their next moves: total domination in sum. The troupe is already planning a national tour through Florida, Dallas and Sacramento, though Daddii Syd’s ambitions extend much further.

“The idea,” she told me, “is to go global. Like a boy band.”

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