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I spent the night in a lighthouse on a tiny California island. Here’s how you can too

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I spent the night in a lighthouse on a tiny California island. Here’s how you can too

You might be reluctant to stay at a $475-a-night inn that warns of flashing lights and foghorns throughout the night, or bans one-night guests from bathing, or requires that you be ready to climb a ladder above roiling seas.

But then you hear those four words:

Lighthouse on an island.

The East Brother Light Station is a compound of three buildings on a three-quarter-acre island near the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay. The main building is a four-bedroom 1873 Victorian home, topped by a beacon you can see from up to 13 miles off. And all of those bedrooms are rentable by the night, with a fancy dinner and breakfast included.

In December, I booked a night and made my way to Point San Pablo Harbor in Richmond, 20 miles north of San Francisco.

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Point San Pablo Harbor, at the western edge of Richmond in East San Francisco Bay, is a bohemian community with one restaurant, one lighthouse bed-and-breakfast, a few dozen live-aboard boats in the marina and several leftover Burning Man sculptures along the shoreline.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Point San Pablo Harbor, at the western edge of Richmond in East San Francisco Bay, is a bohemian community with one restaurant, one lighthouse bed-and-breakfast, a few dozen live-aboard boats in the marina and several leftover Burning Man sculptures along the shoreline.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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The first surprise was the crocodile. When you follow the two-lane approach road, you pass a few miles of mostly idle post-industrial waterfront, climb a hill, then descend to the harbor, where you are greeted by a 40-foot-long steel-and-ceramic crocodile, jaws open wide.

Nearby stands a Victrola-style trumpet tall enough to serenade Godzilla. Also a hippo-sized cat, a possible altar and several other large, mysterious sculptural objects, neighbored by a few yurts, a pen full of goats and a few dozen houseboats in the marina — rustic, artsy houseboats, boldly painted, with a pirate vibe.

At the base of the dock, a rustic patio restaurant called the Sailing Goat was serving lunch. In fact, I was gulping some of the Sailing Goat’s excellent clam chowder when my innkeepers’ 22-foot boat puttered up to the dock.

Innkeeper Dre Elmore prepares to captain the short boat trip from Point San Pablo Harbor to the bed and breakfast at East Brother Light Station.

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(Loren Elliott / For The Times)

The 10-minute ride to the old lighthouse

Dre and Charity Elmore, both newcomers to California, started work in early 2023 as keepers of the East Brother Light Station Bed & Breakfast, a gig nearly as intriguing as the lighthouse itself.

Bundled in rain gear and eager to get back to their island before a downpour hit the launch, the two quickly embarked me and my overnight bag for the trip to the island.

Over the whine of the motor, Dre Elmore explained that many of the houseboat people seem to be live-aboard artists and musicians. As for the sculptures?

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“From Burning Man,” he said.

On the quarter-mile ride to the island, the Elmores told me I’d be the only guest for the evening — others had canceled because of illness. Then they gave me the inn’s backstory.

The East Brother Light Station B&B stands on a tiny island in San Francisco Bay. Guests arrive by boat. (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

East Brother Island, neighbored by unbuilt West Brother Island, is in San Pablo Straight, where San Francisco Bay and San Pablo Bay meet. (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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From 1873 until the 1960s, East Brother Island was home to a manned lighthouse, using its beacon and horn to guide ships through the often-foggy strait that connects San Francisco Bay to San Pablo Bay.

Once automation arrived, the Coast Guard was ready to tear down the old keepers’ residence. That’s when Richmond’s preservationists rose up.

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First they got the light station added to the National Register of Historic Places. Then they launched a campaign to restore the compound and run the keeper’s residence as a bed and breakfast. It would be a nonprofit operation, with proceeds paying for maintenance. The inn opened in 1980, renting two rooms.

There have been plenty of headwinds since then, including the pandemic, a damaged power cable and all the material woes that come with so much salty air and water. But the inn has grown to five rooms in the historic compound, open four nights a week.

Innkeeper Dre Elmore captains the short boat trip from Point San Pablo Harbor to the bed and breakfast at East Brother Light Station.

(Loren Elliott / For The Times)

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Many guests are locals who have always wondered about this odd little island. Others are lighthouse aficionados who roam this country’s coasts, getting their U.S. Lighthouse Society passports stamped. (The last active lighthouse keeper in the U.S., Sally Snowman at Boston Light Beacon, retired in December, but those aficionados still have about 850 active and retired lighthouses to visit and admire.)

As our boat neared the light station’s pier, it became clear why this is not a destination for everyone. As the inn’s website warns, guests must be able to climb 4 to 12 feet up a ladder (depending on the tide) from bobbing boat to dock. Meanwhile, your innkeepers have to heave your luggage up from the boat.

It’s best to pack light. And once you’re on the island, expect a vibe that’s less Burning Man, more L.L. Bean.

The East Brother Light Station B&B, an 1873 building with four bedrooms, stands on a tiny island in San Francisco Bay. Guests arrive by boat.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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Visitors can roam. Or buy out the island.

The compound is surrounded by a white picket fence, as if this were just another slice of residential Americana. Charity Elmore leads guests on a tour that advances from the inn’s stately rooms — ready for an Agatha Christie mystery to break out at any moment — to the lighthouse tower and widow’s walk up top.

“This, right here, is the Lantern Room. That is the actual light that flashes on and off every five seconds,” Charity told me as the beacon blazed, darkened and blazed again. “It lets all the boats in the bay area know that we’re out here.”

The San Francisco and Marin rooms upstairs, which have commanding views, private bathrooms and cost $525, are the most popular among first-timers. I paid $475 to stay downstairs in the West Brother Room, which has a slightly less commanding view and shares a bathroom.

If you’re a boat person who savors the faint scent of diesel, however, you’ll want to book Walter’s Room, a small bedroom and sitting-room in the fog signal building. The bathroom is 25 feet away, but a barn-style door opens to a patio and spectacular view and there are no shared walls.

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Then there’s the splurge option: You rent the whole inn for a $2,500 “house party” — room for 10-12 people, potentially including children, who are otherwise not allowed. That happen two or three times a month.

There are a few other lighthouse lodgings on the West Coast, including the hostel at Pigeon Point in Pescadero and the fancy B&B at Heceta Head near Yachats in Oregon. But where else on the West Coast can you buy out an island?

The East Brother Light Station B&B stands on a tiny island in San Francisco Bay.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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Whether you rent one room or all, Champagne and hors d’oeuvres are served in late afternoon — outdoors if the weather is mild. Then, in the spell before the bell rings for dinner in the dining room, you have time to roam.

You can head upstairs, where there’s a wood-burning stove and a room full of puzzles, board games and a guitar. There’s a horseshoe pitch on one side of the fog signal building. The cellphone coverage is fine, but there’s no WiFi, no land line, no hot tub.

So you do what they do in the L.L. Bean catalog: Stare meaningfully at the the swelling sea, the ferries and barges puttering past, the birds that perch on West Brother, the next island over. Farther away, you have the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge and the distant San Francisco skyline. In winter, clouds and fog permitting, you see the sun set behind Mt. Tamalpais.

The East Brother Light Station B&B stands on a tiny island in San Francisco Bay. (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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The East Brother Light Station B&B stands on a tiny island in San Francisco Bay. (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

The East Brother Light Station at dusk.

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(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

After dark, I climbed the spiral staircase to the widow’s walk and stood by the pulsing beacon, which felt forbidden but isn’t. Then I dipped into a gift shop copy of “East Brother: History of an Island Light Station” by Frank Perry, and learned the following:

  • To put a lighthouse on the domed stone island, 19th-century workers dynamited rock to flatten the top. Then they laid concrete sloping toward a spherical cistern in the middle of the island, to collect water. That’s still the water-storage system, and it’s why the innkeepers must hoard their freshwater.
  • Beneath the main house’s stick-and-frame wooden exterior, it’s a brick building, which makes it more stable, warmer and quieter in the wind.
  • The house was completed in 1873, but the lighthouse wasn’t illuminated until March 1874.
  • In the old days, keepers rowed three miles across the bay to buy provisions at San Quentin, then rowed back, occasionally while drunk. In his January 1883 journal, keeper Charles F. Winsor complained that his assistant Mr. Page “took the mail over to San Quentin, returned drunk.” And then a month later: “Mr. Page went for mail and stores, drunk, no mail.” Soon after, Mr. Page departed the island.

A puzzle sits out in the game room of the bed and breakfast at East Brother Light Station.

(Loren Elliott / For The Times)

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Now the keepers live in the smaller structure next door to the main building. They typically serve a two-year contract, then move on.

After dinner — a four-course event that on my night included tomato bisque, strawberry almond salad, salmon with remoulade, potatoes Dauphinois, roasted asparagus and New York cheesecake — the Elmores told tell me how they’d arrived.

Until early in 2023, they were living in Fairport, N.Y., along the Erie Canal outside Rochester. Charity Elmore, 56, was a project manager in high-tech. Dre Elmore, 57, had spent decades in publishing, then built a second career of maritime jobs, earning a Coast Guard master captain’s license for vessels up to 100 tons. He also liked cooking.

They were both ready for a big move, and and were chosen from more than 1,000 applicants for the East Brother gig. They started in March.

Charity: “You don’t find too many captains that are that good at cooking.”

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Dre: “I’m the only 100-ton captain in the world that made three soups on Thursday.”

Charity: “Probably. There’s no data to back that up.”

Is it a dream job?

“It’s a lot of work,” Dre said, “but it’s definitely worth it to live out here.”

“It’s like a living museum,” Charity said.

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Innkeeper Dre Elmore prepares to demonstrate the vintage foghorn at the East Brother Light Station B&B.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

What you see and hear overnight

That night it rained and the light station’s modern foghorn sounded every 30 seconds, as it routinely does from October to April. But it’s a mellow sound, like the call of an owl from across the street. Though the inn supplies ear plugs, I was never tempted to reach for them.

As for stray lighthouse beams, I saw none. After all, that rotating beacon up above is designed to scatter light far and wide, not straight down. I slept deeply.

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In the morning, guests get a hearty breakfast. Before the 11 a.m. boat ride back to the mainland, Dre Elmore likes to show off the retired Fresnel lens and the array of still-working machinery in the fog signal building.

The machinery is fascinating. But the payoff for me came when he demonstrated the station’s rare 1934 diaphone fog signal, which sounds off with two descending blasts, basso profundo. When those bass notes sound, it won’t matter whether you’re in pirate mode, L.L. Bean mode or lighthouse geek mood. All your molecules will vibrate. In a good way.

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Rob Reiner said he was ‘never, ever too busy’ for his son

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Rob Reiner said he was ‘never, ever too busy’ for his son

Rob Reiner at the Cannes film festival in 2022.

Andreas Rentz/Getty Images


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Andreas Rentz/Getty Images

When Rob Reiner spoke with Fresh Air in September to promote Spinal Tap II: The End Continues, Terry Gross asked him about Being Charlie, a 2015 film he collaborated on with his son Nick Reiner. The film was a semiautobiographical story of addiction and homelessness, based on Nick’s own experiences.

Nick Reiner was arrested Sunday evening after Rob and Michele Reiner were found dead inside their California home.

The father character in Being Charlie feels a lot of tension between his own career aspirations and his son’s addiction — but Reiner said that wasn’t how it was for him and Nick.

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“I was never, ever too busy,” Reiner told Fresh Air. “I mean, if anything, I was the other way, you know, I was more hands-on and trying to do whatever I thought I could do to help. I’m sure I made mistakes and, you know, I’ve talked about that with him since.”

At the time, Reiner said he believed Nick was doing well. “He’s been great … hasn’t been doing drugs for over six years,” Reiner said. “He’s in a really good place.”

Reiner starred in the 1970s sitcom, All in the Family and directed Stand By Me, The Princess Bride, When Harry Met Sally and A Few Good Men. Spinal Tap II: The End Continues is a sequel to his groundbreaking 1984 mockumentary This Is Spinal Tap.

“After 15 years of not working together, we came back and started looking at this and seeing if we could come up with an idea, and we started schnadling right away,” Reiner recalled. “It was like falling right back in with friends that you hadn’t talked to in a long time. It’s like jazz musicians, you just fall in and do what you do.”

Below are some more highlights from that interview.

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Interview Highlights

Carl Reiner (left) and Rob Reiner together in 2017.

Carl Reiner (left) and Rob Reiner together in 2017.

Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty Images for TCM


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Matt Winkelmeyer/Getty Images for TCM

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On looking up to his dad, director Carl Reiner, and growing up surrounded by comedy legends 

When I was a little boy, my parents said that I came up to them and I said, “I want to change my name.” I was about 8 years old … They were all, “My god, this poor kid. He’s worried about being in the shadow of this famous guy and living up to all this.” And they say, “Well, what do you want to change your name to?” And I said, “Carl.” I loved him so much, I just wanted to be like him and I wanted to do what he did and I just looked up to him so much. …

[When] I was 19 … I was sitting with him in the backyard and he said to me, “I’m not worried about you. You’re gonna be great at whatever you do.” He lives in my head all the time. I had two great guides in my life. I had my dad, and then Norman Lear was like a second father. They’re both gone, but they’re with me always. …

There’s a picture in my office of all the writers who wrote for Sid Caesar and [Your] Show of Shows over the nine years, I guess, that they were on. And, when you look at that picture, you’re basically looking at everything you ever laughed at in the first half of the 20th century. I mean there’s Mel Brooks, there’s my dad, there is Neil Simon, there is Woody Allen, there is Larry Gelbart, Joe Stein who wrote Fiddler on the Roof, Aaron Ruben who created The Andy Griffith Show. Anything you ever laughed at is represented by those people. So these are the people I look up to, and these are people that were around me as a kid growing up.

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On directing the famous diner scene in When Harry Met Sally

We knew we were gonna do a scene where Meg [Ryan] was gonna fake an orgasm in an incongruous place like a deli, and Billy [Crystal] came up with the line, “I’ll have what she’s having.” … I said, we need to find somebody, an older Jewish woman, who could deliver that line, which would seem incongruous. I thought of my mother because my mother had done a couple of little [movie] things … So I asked her if she wanted to do it and she said sure. I said, “Now listen mom, hopefully that’ll be the topper of the scene. It’ll get the big laugh, and if it doesn’t, I may have to cut it out.” … She said, “That’s fine. I just want to spend the day with you. I’ll go to Katz’s. I’ll get a hot dog.” …

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When we did the scene the first couple of times through Meg was kind of tepid about it. She didn’t give it her all. … She was nervous. She’s in front of the crew and there’s extras and people. … And at one point, I get in there and I said, “Meg, let me show you what I meant.” And I sat opposite Billy, and I’m acting it out, and I’m pounding the table and I’m going, “Yes, yes, yes!” … I turned to Billy and I say, “This is embarrassing … I just had an orgasm in front of my mother.” But then Meg came in and she did it obviously way better than I could do it.

On differentiating himself from his father with Stand By Me (1986) 

I never said specifically I want to be a film director. I never said that. And I never really thought that way. I just knew I wanted to act, direct, and do things, be in the world that he was in. And it wasn’t until I did Stand By Me that I really started to feel very separate and apart from my father. Because the first film I did was, This Is Spinal Tap, which is a satire. And my father had trafficked in satire with Sid Caesar for many years. And then the second film I did was a film called The Sure Thing, which was a romantic comedy for young people, and my father had done romantic comedy. The [Dick] Van Dyke Show is a romantic comedy, a series.

But when I did Stand By Me, it was the one that was closest to me because … I felt that my father didn’t love me or understand me, and it was the character of Gordie that expressed those things. And the film was a combination of nostalgia, emotion and a lot of humor. And it was a real reflection of my personality. It was an extension, really, of my sensibility. And when it became successful, I said, oh, OK. I can go in the direction that I want to go in and not feel like I have to mirror everything my father’s done up till then.

On starting his own production company (Castle Rock) and how the business has changed

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We started it so I could have some kind of autonomy because I knew that the kinds of films I wanted to make people didn’t wanna make. I mean, I very famously went and talked to Dawn Steel, who was the head of Paramount at the time. … And she says to me, “What do you wanna make? What’s your next film?” And I said, “Well, you know, I got a film, but I don’t think you’re going to want to do it.” … I’m going to make a movie out of The Princess Bride. And she said, “Anything but that.” So I knew that I needed to have some way of financing my own films, which I did for the longest time. …

It’s tough now. And it’s beyond corporate. I mean, it used to be there was “show” and “business.” They were equal — the size of the word “show” and “business.” Now, you can barely see the word “show,” and it’s all “business.” And the only things that they look at [are] how many followers, how many likes, what the algorithms are. They’re not thinking about telling a story. … I still wanna tell stories. And I’m sure there’s a lot of young filmmakers — even Scorsese is still doing it, older ones too — that wanna tell a story. And I think people still wanna hear stories and they wanna see stories.

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Executive Memo | How to Cut Costs While Investing for the Future

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Executive Memo | How to Cut Costs While Investing for the Future
Fashion is facing a crunch as consumers grow more cautious and the full impact of tariffs comes into view. Brands and retailers need to cut their expenses, but they can’t stop investing towards the future if they want to win in the long-term.
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Remembering Rob Reiner, who made movies for people who love them

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Remembering Rob Reiner, who made movies for people who love them

Rob Reiner at his office in Beverly Hills, Calif., in July 1998.

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Reed Saxon/AP

Maybe an appreciation of Rob Reiner as a director should start with When Harry Met Sally…, which helped lay the foundation for a romantic comedy boom that lasted for at least 15 years. Wait — no, it should start with Stand By Me, a coming-of-age story that captured a painfully brief moment in the lives of kids. It could start with This Is Spinal Tap, one of the first popular mockumentaries, which has influenced film and television ever since. Or, since awards are important, maybe it should start with Misery, which made Kathy Bates famous and won her an Oscar. How about The American President, which was the proto-West Wing, very much the source material for a TV show that later won 26 Emmys?

On the other hand, maybe in the end, it’s all about catchphrases, so maybe it should be A Few Good Men because of “You can’t handle the truth!” or The Princess Bride because of “My name is Inigo Montoya, you killed my father, prepare to die.” Maybe it’s as simple as that: What, of the words you helped bring them, will people pass back and forth to each other like they’re showing off trading cards when they hear you’re gone?

There is plenty to praise about Reiner’s work within the four corners of the screen. He had a tremendous touch with comic timing, so that every punchline got maximum punch. He had a splendid sense of atmosphere, as with the cozy, autumnal New York of When Harry Met Sally…, and the fairytale castles of The Princess Bride. He could direct what was absurdist and silly, like Spinal Tap. He could direct what was grand and thundering, like A Few Good Men. He could direct what was chatty and genial, like Michael Douglas’ staff in The American President discussing whether or not he could get out of the presidential limo to spontaneously buy a woman flowers.

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But to fully appreciate what Rob Reiner made in his career, you have to look outside the films themselves and respect the attachments so many people have to them. These were not just popular movies and they weren’t just good movies; these were an awful lot of people’s favorite movies. They were movies people attached to their personalities like patches on a jacket, giving them something to talk about with strangers and something to obsess over with friends. And he didn’t just do this once; he did it repeatedly.

Quotability is often treated as separate from artfulness, but creating an indelible scene people attach themselves to instantly is just another way the filmmakers’ humanity resonates with the audience’s. Mike Schur said something once about running Parks and Recreation that I think about a lot. Talking about one particularly silly scene, he said it didn’t really justify its place in the final version, except that everybody loved it: And if everybody loves it, you leave it in. I would suspect that Rob Reiner was also a fan of leaving something in if everybody loved it. That kind of respect for what people like and what they laugh at is how you get to be that kind of director.

The relationships people have with scenes from Rob Reiner movies are not easy to create. You can market the heck out of a movie, you can pull all the levers you have, and you can capitalize on every advantage you can come up with. But you can’t make anybody absorb “baby fishmouth” or “as you wish”; you can’t make anybody say “these go to 11” every time they see the number 11 anywhere. You can’t buy that for any amount of money. It’s magical how much you can’t; it’s kind of beautiful how much you can’t. Box office and streaming numbers might be phony or manipulated or fleeting, but when the thing hits, people attach to it or they don’t.

My own example is The Sure Thing, Reiner’s goodhearted 1985 road trip romantic comedy, essentially an updated It Happened One Night starring John Cusack and Daphne Zuniga. It follows a mismatched pair of college students headed for California: She wants to reunite with her dullard boyfriend, while he wants to hook up with a blonde he has been assured by his dirtbag friend (played by a young, very much hair-having Anthony Edwards!) is a “sure thing.” But of course, the two of them are forced to spend all this time together, and … well, you can imagine.

This movie knocked me over when I was 14, because I hadn’t spent much time with romantic comedies yet, and it was like finding precisely the kind of song you will want to listen to forever, and so it became special to me. I studied it, really, I got to know what I liked about it, and I looked for that particular hit of sharp sweetness again and again. In fact, if forced to identify a single legacy for Rob Reiner, I might argue that he’s one of the great American directors of romance, and his films call to the genre’s long history in so many ways, often outside the story and the dialogue. (One of the best subtle jokes in all of romantic comedy is in The American President, when President Andrew Shepherd, played by Michael Douglas, dances with Sydney Wade, played by Annette Bening, to “I Have Dreamed,” a very pretty song from the musical … The King and I. That’s what you get for knowing your famous love stories.)

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Rob Reiner’s work as a director, especially in those early films, wasn’t just good to watch. It was good to love, and to talk about and remember. Good to quote from and good to put on your lists of desert island movies and comfort watches. And it will continue to be those things.

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