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For L.A. rapper Jay 305, smelling good is sanctity and Scent Bar is the church

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For L.A. rapper Jay 305, smelling good is sanctity and Scent Bar is the church

For Jay 305, smelling good is sanctity. A trail of musks, resinous woods and creamy florals follow him around like an orb of protection. But the real flex, the never-ending quest, is to smell unlike anyone else. At Scent Bar DTLA, the niche perfume boutique with locations at The Row, Hollywood and New York City, the South-Central rapper is picking up perfumes and putting them to his nose in short progression, leaving a collection of bulbous and angular bottles in his wake. He is looking for something that stimulates him almost reflexively, the way a fragrance that’s truly meant for you will. Jay came in with a list of possible contenders written on his Notes app, which he does often: Parfum de Marly’s Layton, Initio Parfums Privés’ Oud for Greatness, Nasomatto’s Black Afgano. Beast-mode fragrances with an air of mystery, or spirituality. The kind of perfumes that make an introduction for you. “Scent, it’s like your brand,” Jay says.

Jay has come here at least once a week for the last few years. Always to the DTLA location, usually after going to Smorgasburg L.A. He’s also a regular at Frédéric Malle on Melrose Place where he stocks up on one of his favorites, Carnal Flower. At Dawah Bookshop in Leimert Park, he blends his own perfume oils, and at Dover Street Market, where everyone knows him by name, he’s most recently been drawn to the Edward Bess perfume collection. At Scent Bar, we’re jumping from the “incense” shelf, to the “cult masculine” shelf, smelling everything David Aguirre, an artist who’s been working at Scent Bar for years and is often Jay’s point person, skillfully pulls from the “oud” or “floral” shelves behind the counter. Aguirre has taught Jay the correct pronunciation of many French perfume names and has put him on to all-time favorites, like Jeroboam’s Oriento, a jammy rose patchouli with a sparkling saffron top note.

“Scent, it’s like your brand,” Jay says.

Born Jay Cummins, he’s grown accustomed to his personal interests defying the expectations people have of him based on where he grew up, his time spent behind bars or the experiences he raps about in his music. Jay’s discography has become the stuff of L.A. legend — hood anthems, strip club classics. It was 2012’s “Youzza Flip” that put him on the map, which was only further cemented by his work on Dom Kennedy’s label Other People’s Money, a.k.a. OPM, throughout the 2010s. He’s been making music since — finding hits with tracks like “Why You So Nasty?” featuring Travis Scott off his 2017 album, “Taking All Bets.” But he’s also a certified perfume addict, has been vegan for 10 years, is sober and has lived life in full dedication to health and wellness after getting into a car wreck in his early 20s, and a doctor telling him that if he didn’t lose weight his knees wouldn’t heal. He’s a Virgo, and reminds me often of the sign’s superiority. He dabbles in dirtbikes in a quest toward finding freedom, which is how we first met. And he’s a fashion enthusiast, which is something he’s felt fully free to express in recent years through a personal style he’s dubbed “ghetto couture.”

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Today, he’s wearing mostly New Bedstuy, a brand designed by his friend Johnnie Davis that’s known for making subversive staples, and Margiela. Sitting courtside at a Lakers game recently, Wiz Khalifa dubbed Jay “the best dressed in the West,” he says, proudly. He’s also a kind of unofficial mayor of L.A. — with friends spanning the music, art and fashion worlds in the city, casually name-dropping everyone from Kendrick Lamar and Rita Ora in the same breath. Almost a year ago, I ran into Jay at a TOMBOGO film screening for L.A. Fashion Week. His scent hit me immediately, and I asked the question compulsively: “What are you wearing?” Jay knew I wasn’t talking about his vest, his shoes, or his hat. He looked at me, twinkle in his eye, smirk forming: “I have my own mix. I can’t tell you what.” We immediately agreed that we should go to Scent Bar, our mutual happy place. (And for the record, I guessed at least one perfume in this mysterious mix off first whiff alone, which is when Jay knew I was a real one.)

A man stands in a perfume shop.

Jay’s latest EP, called “Don’t Wait Until I Die,” made in collaboration with rapper and producer Hit-Boy, takes a page from the deep, oily, enveloping scents that have become his signature.

Jay’s latest EP, called “Don’t Wait Until I Die,” made in collaboration with rapper and producer Hit-Boy, takes a page from the deep, oily, enveloping scents that have become his signature. The record, which dropped in May, is complex, dealing with themes of legacy and mortality. “Pieces,” a kind of summer banger made with Dom Kennedy and Hit-Boy, serves as the flipside to “Devils Happy In LA,” a demon mode record that unveils the city’s dark side. In “Pray 2 God Is Real,” Jay raps about pleading to a higher power for safety, for understanding, for his people. He’s been wearing ouds as part of his creative process when making the EP, one of the most expensive — and divisive — notes in perfumery known as “wood of the gods.” “It has a darker tone to it, but it’s still spiritual, it’s still healing, which is what ‘Don’t Wait Until I Die’ is,” he says. “Don’t wait until I’m gone to remember my scent.”

Fragrance people are a different breed — obsessive little freaks who are driven by their senses and fall in love with things that are invisible. The real heads can chop it up for hours about the construction of a perfume, the feelings and ideas that it can provoke. We’ve reached the point in our Scent Bar journey where Jay and I are talking a mile a minute, eyes rolling in the back of our heads every time we smell something special, darting from corner to corner. Nothing makes sense and everything is beautiful — flying high on the ecstasy of perfume.

I came in with the intention of buying something, and I have Jay smell the perfume I’ve been considering for the last six months five times in a row (indoors and outdoors) because I am actually insane. And he must be too because he doesn’t once refuse or second-guess me. It’s called Ma Nishtana by Parfum Prissana, with notes of frankincense, labdanum, saffron, rose, smoke and leather. It’s the kind of fragrance that’s so animalic and intense at first smell that it makes you gag, with a dry down that becomes strangely addicting, comforting and warm. There is an understanding between Jay and I that this is what one must do — talk about, think about, and smell perfume incessantly to understand it, and find something that is either in reflection of the person you are or the person you want to become.

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Scent Bar is the kind of place where, if you love perfume, feels almost illegal to be inside of. There is so much at your disposal, so many things you’ve never smelled and too many things you want to smell forever. Jay will often come here on a date to flex his knowledge — “It’s what you taught her, not what you bought her,” goes one of his many mantras — to get a sense if a potential partner is going to be repelled by the smells he likes. “If she’s a good person, that’s how you find out,” he says. How so? “Because that’s when you find out if she’s with the dark side or she’s with the light side. If she comes in here and [can’t stand] the smell, something’s wrong.” For Jay, scent is directly rooted in spirituality, love of self and respect for others.

“It brings out emotions,” Jay says of fragrance. “Scent and taste are the biggest things you remember from being a kid.” Growing up in a Black Caribbean household in the ‘80s and ‘90s — his mom is from Jamaica, his dad is from Barbados — smelling good was law. “If you have an outfit on, but you don’t have cologne on or you don’t smell good, do you even have the flyest fit on? What’s the point,” he says. It was after his grandmother told him he was musty in front of a girl he liked when he was 9 years old that Jay vowed to never be caught slipping again. His first fragrance was Davidoff’s Cool Water — a cult classic masculine marine fragrance with notes of rosemary, sea water and ambergris. (The perfumer behind the fragrance is Pierre Bourdon, who would go on to make fragrances for one of Jay’s favorite houses, Frédéric Malle, including French Lover and Iris Poudre.) His journey jumped to Nautica Blue, then Versace Dylan Blue. (Every popular “men’s” fragrance in the ‘90s was named after the color blue, apparently.) He eventually started dabbling in Le Labo, and then Byredo, which opened him up to the niche perfume world.

Perfume is baked into Jay’s ritual every morning. A daily baptism that comes after a workout and a shower. His spray points include behind his knees, his lower back, his shoulders and his beard “depending.” On what, I ask? He laughs, and doesn’t fully answer.

LOS ANGELES - MAY 3, 2024: Jay 305 for Image. (Jheyda McGarrell / For The Times)
LOS ANGELES - MAY 3, 2024: Jay 305 for Image. (Jheyda McGarrell / For The Times)

“Scent and taste are the biggest things you remember from being a kid.”

— Jay 305

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We take a walk around The Row to place a to-go order at Pizzeria Bianco while we huff the blotters doused with our potential perfume picks. Jay and I have similar tastes in scent — we want to smell moody, mystical, like we just stumbled out of a temple and know something you don’t, with a touch of zesty punchiness or weirdness. We gravitate toward scents that are polarizing. “There’s going to be something for everybody,” he says. “It’s like making music, like making art. Some people aren’t gonna get it right then and there, but one day, it might just hit them.”

He’s encouraging me to just get Ma Nishtana — probably because I won’t shut up about it, and maybe because both of our nostrils are lowkey charred at this point. When we walk back into Scent Bar, I bolt toward the counter where I left the Ma Nishtana bottle, and next to it I notice a simple, cylindrical bottle of a perfume I’d never seen, or heard of, called Papyrus Oud by Parle Moi de Parfum. Something urges me to open the magnetic cap and the moment I inhale the smell of the faintly golden liquid, I feel my eyes well up a little bit. I know. I know in that immediate way you know when a perfume is right for you. It smells, to me, like burnt paper, Smarties candies and leather. The notes range from ginger to orris root, white cedar and vetiver. This perfume gets me, this perfume is me. No question. I have Jay smell it and buy it immediately.

Jay asks for samples of Orto Parisi’s Terroni, a delicious, damp, smoky, wet earth and raspberry fragrance, and Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d’Ascese, a perfume that smells like drinking whiskey neat around a bonfire. He vows to come buy one of them in celebration when “Don’t Wait Until I Die” comes out.

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As I sit in the car, the smell of Papyrus Oud filling space, I feel so full — maybe it’s from the dopamine hit of just spending $150, but mostly, I think, from finding a fragrance that feels like a self-portrait. I remember something that Jay said to me earlier in the day about perfume: “It’s like the Earth,” he says. “The Earth only gives.” It’s at that moment I realize that I accidentally walked away with the samples Jay got for himself. Good thing he’ll be back next week.

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'Wait Wait' for July 27, 2024: With Not My Job guest Kathleen Hanna

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'Wait Wait' for July 27, 2024: With Not My Job guest Kathleen Hanna

Kathleen Hanna of The Julie Ruin performs onstage at the 2016 Panorama NYC Festival – Day 2 at Randall’s Island on July 23, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images)

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This week’s show was recorded in Chicago with host Peter Sagal, judge and scorekeeper Bill Kurtis, Not My Job guest Kathleen Hanna and panelists Meredith Scardino, Peter Grosz, and Mo Rocca Click the audio link above to hear the whole show.

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Not My Job: We quiz Bikini Kill’s Kathleen Hanna on Hanna-Barbera

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Punk icon Kathleen Hanna plays our game called, “Kathleen Hanna Meet Hannah-Barbera.” Three questions about the animation studio.

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L.A. Affairs: At 77, I had a crush on my best friend’s widower. Did he feel the same way?

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L.A. Affairs: At 77, I had a crush on my best friend’s widower. Did he feel the same way?

At 77, I had given up. After two failed marriages and years of unsuccessful dating, I accepted what seemed to be my fate: single for almost 40 years and single for however many remained. You don’t get it all, I told myself. I was grateful for family, friends and work. Life settled into what felt like order.

Until Ty.

As the husband of my best friend, he was no stranger, but he was usually peripheral. Then 10 years ago, my friend got lung cancer. I watched during visits, stunned at how nurturing Ty could be, taking care of her even though they had separated years before at her request.

After she died, Ty and I stayed in touch sporadically: a surprise sharing of his second granddaughter a year after we scattered my friend’s ashes, an invitation to the launch of my book a year later. Ty attended, hovering in the back, emerging after everyone left to attentively help load my car.

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Two more years passed. During quiet moments, I remembered his sweetness. I also remembered his handsome face and long, tall body. Confused about what I wanted, I texted Ty, who’s an architect, under the guise of purchasing a tree for my backyard.

We spent an afternoon at the nursery, laughing, comparing options and agreeing on a final selection. When the tree arrived, I emailed a photo. He emailed a thank you.

Another three years passed, broken only by news of his third granddaughter and my memories of how good it felt to be with him. Alert to his attentiveness, but unsettled by both his remove and my growing interest, I risked reaching out again, this time about remodeling my garage.

Ty spent several hours at my house making measurements, checking the foundation and sharing pictures of his home in Topanga. His sketches for the garage arrived two weeks later via email.

I was grateful for his help but unsure over what sort of friendship we were developing, at least from his point of view. I, however, was clear. I wanted him to wrap his long arms around me, tell me sweet things and make me his.

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Instead, I sent a gift card to a Topanga restaurant to thank him for his drawings.

“Maybe we should spend it together,” he texted.

We dined in the dusk of late summer. Our talk was easy. Discomfort lay in the unspoken. Anxious for clarity, I repeatedly let my hand linger near the candle flickering in the middle of our table. It remained untouched.

And that was as far as I was willing to go. I refused to be any more forward, having already compromised myself beyond my comfort level with what seemed, at least to me, embarrassingly transparent efforts to indicate my interest. Not making the first move was very important. If a man could not reach out, if he didn’t have the self-confidence to take the first step, he would not, I adamantly felt, be a good partner for me.

Two weeks later, Ty did email, suggesting an early evening hike in Tuna Canyon in Malibu. The setting was perfect. Sun sparkled off the ocean. A gentle breeze blew. We climbed uphill for sweeping coastal vistas and circled down to the shade of live oaks, touching only when he took my hand to steady me where the path was slippery. At the end of the trail, overlooking the juncture between the mountains and the sea, we stood opposite each other and talked animatedly for almost an hour, both of us reluctant to part.

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Our conversation was engaging, but my inner dialogue was louder. When, I kept thinking, is this man going to suggest we continue the evening over dinner? We didn’t have to go out. We could eat at his house. It was 7 p.m., for God’s sake. Passing hikers even stopped to remark on our matching white hair and how well they thought we looked together. It was like a movie scene where the audience is yelling, “Kiss her, kiss her,” rooting for what they know is going to happen while the tension becomes almost unbearable. But bear it I did.

Each of us ate alone.

A few weeks later, at his suggestion, we were back at Tuna Canyon. This time Ty did invite me to end the evening at his house. Sitting close on his couch, but not too close, we drifted toward each other in the darkening room. His shoulder brushed mine reaching for his cup of coffee. My hip pressed his as I leaned in for my tea. Slowly, sharing wishes and hopes for our remaining years, we became shadows in the light of the moon. And in that darkness, in that illuminated space, he reached out.

This reticent man, this man who was so slow to move toward me, this sensitive man who hid himself behind layers so opaque I was unsure of his interest, released all that he had inside him.

“I wanted you,” Ty repeated again and again. “I was afraid of ruining things. You were her best friend. I didn’t want to lose your friendship.”

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Our pent-up tension exploded.

Stunned and thrilled, I leaned into the space he opened.

Three years later, it is a space we continue to share: a place where neither of us has given up, a place where he wraps me in his long arms, a place we hold carefully against our diminishing days.

The author is the owner of a preschool in Venice as well as a psychotherapist, photographer and writer. Her first book, “Naked in the Woods: My Unexpected Years in a Hippie Commune,” was published in 2015. Her newest manuscript, “Bargains: A Coming of Aging Memoir Told in Tales,” is seeking a publisher. She lives in Mar Vista and can be found at margaretgrundstein.com, Instagram @margwla, Medium @margaretgrundstein and Substack @mgrundstein.

L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.

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'Deadpool & Wolverine' is a self-cannibalizing slog

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'Deadpool & Wolverine' is a self-cannibalizing slog

Ryan Reynolds stars as Deadpool and Hugh Jackman as Wolverine in an odd-couple action hero pairing.

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When Fox Studios released the first Deadpool movie back in 2016, it played like an irreverently funny antidote to our collective comic-book-movie fatigue. Wade Wilson, or Deadpool, was a foul-mouthed mercenary who obliterated his enemies and the fourth wall with the same gonzo energy.

Again and again, Deadpool turned to the camera and mocked the clichés of the superhero movie with such deadpan wit, you almost forgot you were watching a superhero movie. And Ryan Reynolds, Hollywood’s snarkiest leading man, might have been engineered in a lab to play this vulgar vigilante. I liked the movie well enough, though one was plenty; by the time Deadpool 2 rolled around in 2018, all that self-aware humor had started to seem awfully self-satisfied.

Now we have a third movie, Deadpool & Wolverine, which came about through some recent movie-industry machinations. When Disney bought Fox a few years ago, Deadpool, along with other mutant characters from the X-Men series, officially joined the franchise juggernaut known as the Marvel Cinematic Universe.

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That puts the new movie in an almost interesting bind. It tries to poke fun at its tortured corporate parentage; one of the first things Deadpool says is “Marvel’s so stupid.” But now the movie also has to fit into the narrative parameters of the MCU. It tries to have it both ways: brand extension disguised as a satire of brand extension.

It’s also an odd-couple comedy, pairing Deadpool with the most famous of the X-Men: Logan, or Wolverine, the mutant with the unbreakable bones and the retractable metal claws, played as ever by a bulked-up Hugh Jackman.

The combo makes sense, and not just because both characters are Canadian. In earlier movies, Deadpool often made Wolverine the off-screen butt of his jokes. Both Deadpool and Wolverine are essentially immortal, their bodies capable of self-regenerating after being wounded. Both are tormented by past failures and are trying to redeem themselves. Onscreen, the two have a good, thorny chemistry, with Jackman’s brooding silences contrasting nicely with Reynolds’ mile-a-minute delivery.

I could tell you more about the story, but only at the risk of incurring the wrath of studio publicists who have asked critics not to discuss the plot or the movie’s many, many cameos. Let’s just say that the director Shawn Levy and his army of screenwriters bring the two leads together through various rifts in the multiverse. Yes, the multiverse, that ever-elastic comic-book conceit, with numerous Deadpools and Wolverines from various alternate realities popping up along the way.

I suppose it’s safe to mention that Matthew Macfadyen, lately of Succession, plays some kind of sinister multiverse bureaucrat, while Emma Corrin, of The Crown, plays a nasty villain in exile. It’s all thin, derivative stuff, and the script’s various wink-wink nods to other shows and movies, from Back to the Future to Furiosa to The Great British Bake Off, don’t make it feel much fresher. And Levy, who previously directed Reynolds in the sci-fi comedies Free Guy and The Adam Project, doesn’t have much feel for the splattery violence that is a staple of the Deadpool movies. There’s more tedium than excitement in the characters’ bone-crunching, crotch-stabbing killing sprees, complete with corn-syrupy geysers of blood.

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For all its carnage, its strenuous meta-humor and an R-rated sensibility that tests the generally PG-13 confines of the MCU, Deadpool & Wolverine does strive for sincerity at times. Some of its cameos and plot turns are clearly designed to pay tribute to Fox’s X-Men films from the early 2000s.

As a longtime X-Men fan myself, I’m not entirely immune to the charms of this approach; there’s one casting choice, in particular, that made me smile, almost in spite of myself. It’s not enough to make the movie feel like less of a self-cannibalizing slog, though I suspect that many in the audience, who live for this kind of glib fan service, won’t mind. Say what you will about Marvel — I certainly have — but it isn’t nearly as stupid as Deadpool says it is.

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