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Classics Just Twisted Enough to Wear

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Classics Just Twisted Enough to Wear

Hang around the fashion industry for all of, oh, five minutes, and you’ll start to hear the term “classics with a twist.”

Designers say it, writers use it, marketing execs cite it. What they mean, typically, is something familiar, bent just enough to feel fresh — stylistically, and, of course, commercially.

Is it trite? Certainly. But I’ve been thinking about this cliché in recent days, as it applies so well to the best of what I’ve seen trudging through Paris Fashion Week: the clothes and outfits that contort the conventional just enough to make me lean in and say, “What’s going on there … and do I need it?”

It’s what I thought of when I saw the Yankees hat that Sigurd Bank, a forthright Dane who designs Mfpen, a Copenhagen label, was wearing when we met for coffee on Friday morning.

The hat looked like a kindergarten art project set upon by a hammerhead. Its faded brim was cleaved in half, a logo on the side had been stitched over by his daughter and the “NY” logo on the front had been covered with a swatch of plaid fabric held on by a safety pin.

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He wasn’t taking a shot at New York in particular, but he did mention that there was “kind of an anti-U.S. thing going on in Europe” that compelled him to make his hat look less American.

I’ve seen tens of thousands of Yankees hats before, but none like Mr. Bank’s.

I’d also never seen an olive military jacket like the one Andre 3000 wore as he slithered into the Kenzo show just before the music kicked in. Here was the rarest creature at fashion week: a celebrity in the front row wearing his own clothes. What a concept.

The jacket was ragged and shredded. On the back, the musician had screen-printed a photo of his son. The most winning clothes are, as ever, the most personal.

Not that great style can’t be bought. On Friday, I visited the Avenue Montaigne store of Loewe, a brand that is skipping the runway this season as rumors circulate about the future of its creative director, Jonathan Anderson.

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There I found a pair of pebble-grain penny loafers upgraded in a Kermit green so “aaoogah” eye-popping that it almost made me pay the roughly $1,000 price. The right twist can be budgetarily devastating.

If I was thinking more than usual about how much clothes should be tweaked this week, it was because I’d witnessed so much that felt overindulgent, if not borderline silly.

I saw, at Kenzo, bunny suits worn with underwear, an outfit suited only for a deleted scene in a Harmony Korine film. I saw, at Hodakova, a woman “dressed” in a stringless cello that nearly rendered her incapable of walking. At Vivienne Westwood, I saw ties the length of XXL lassos. (Designers, please stop trying to make the tie anything more than it is.)

Before these designers are given the keys to their venues, someone should remind them that a little adjustment can do a lot.

At least a few designers got the memo.

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In a continuation of the paring-it-all-back approach he took in January for his men’s show, Rick Owens presented his version of wardrobe building blocks for women.

“Every once in a while we have to pull it back a bit,” Mr. Owens said backstage. He pulled it back just enough.

I’m not going to say that what Junya Watanabe presented wasn’t out there — moto jackets with sleeves made of boots are only for double-black, diamond-level dressers. But the flared snakeskin-like pants? The black coat made in geometric panels? The leather jacket that looked as if it had swallowed a hula hoop? All classic designs nudged along toward something new.

As for Matières Fécales, a label making its runway debut in Paris, the name almost kept me away. (It translates to fecal matter.) That would’ve been a mistake.

With the backing of Dover Street Market’s brand incubator, this was a sure-footed planting of the flag from the designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran. The pair, who are personalities in Mr. Owens’s extended universe, met in design school in Montreal a decade ago but are largely known for their own alien way of dressing. (Backstage after the show, Mr. Bhaskaran described their style as “posthuman.”) They are probably the only fledgling designers I can think of to already have 175,000 Instagram followers.

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A flighty influencer brand this is not. Their debut, which owed a significant debt to the work of Mr. Owens as well as that of Alexander McQueen, flashed some true chops.

Hourglass blazers brandished shoulders peaked enough to recall the letter M. Sweaters were distressed with care, and leather jackets featured fecund sprouts of shearling at the collar and sleeve hem.

Models wore theatrical white makeup and witchy heels, but the nearly all black palette of the clothes themselves made the collection go down easily. They were classics. Twisted classics, but classics nonetheless.

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James Burrows, director of classic shows ‘Cheers’ and ‘Friends,’ dies at 85

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James Burrows, director of classic shows ‘Cheers’ and ‘Friends,’ dies at 85

Director James Burrows attends the “Will & Grace” start of production kick off event and ribbon cutting ceremony at Universal City Plaza on August 2, 2017 in Universal City, California.

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LOS ANGELES — James Burrows, who helped create volumes of laughter as director of more than a thousand episodes of such classic television comedies as “Cheers,” “Taxi,” “Friends” and “Will and Grace,” died Friday. He was 85.

His family confirmed his death in a statement to People, saying he “passed away peacefully today surrounded by his family.” No location or cause of death was provided.

Burrows spent his career behind the camera specializing in situation comedies. Few viewers recognized him or knew his name, other than to see it flash quickly on the screen in the opening credits. But they knew his work.

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Burrows got his start in television relatively late at age 35 in 1974, directing episodes of “The Mary Tyler Moore Show,” “The Bob Newhart Show,” and “Laverne & Shirley.”

He co-created “Cheers,” directing 243 of the 273 episodes, as well as all 246 episodes of “Will and Grace.”

He also helmed multiple episodes of such hits as “Frasier,” “Friends” and “Mike & Molly,” and the pilots of “Two and a Half Men” and “The Big Bang Theory.”

“When I direct a television show, I try to reach that sweet spot where the best script meets the best performance and the best chemistry between performers,” Burrows wrote in his 2022 memoir “Directed by James Burrows.” “Hitting that exact moment, where these factors land in combination, results in the sweetest and most enduring laugh.”

His family said, “Burrows understood that great comedy was never simply about laughter. It was about humanity, connection, and truth. That understanding became the foundation of a career that forever changed television.

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“But beyond his remarkable achievements, Burrows will be remembered for something even greater: his kindness, generosity, and unwavering belief in the people around him. He possessed a rare ability to make everyone better and was known for remembering every person he met by name, making colleagues at every level feel seen, valued, and appreciated,” the family statement said.

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Beer, with a twist? SoCal dads find solidarity through an unexpected activity

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Beer, with a twist? SoCal dads find solidarity through an unexpected activity

For a few minutes, the atmosphere inside Captain Fatty’s Brewery in Santa Barbara County was quiet, different from the usual Friday night clamor.

On this late May evening, the 15 men gathered there were contemplating tackling something few had previously had the courage or skill to take on. Austin Nieves, a recent transplant to the area and the man who had brought this brave group together, broke the strained silence by handing out beers.

Within minutes, the men, who ranged in age from 30 to 60, began chatting among themselves.

Then they started braiding hair.

The May 22 event — Goleta’s version of the viral U.K.-inspired “Pints and Ponytails” night — was sold out. The idea is to have expert hairstylists train uninitiated or intimidated fathers on how to comb and braid their kids’ hair, using salon-type head mannequins but in a setting for bros.

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“When the first guys got there, they were stiff,” said Nieves, a Pasadena native who moved to Santa Barbara in April 2025. “Then after that first beer, they went from sitting around the edge of the bar to jumping right into learning and giving it a shot.”

Dads group members Dan Ucko, left, and Eric Schalla participate in the hairstyling event at Captain Fatty’s Brewery in Goleta.

The gathering was one of several father functions by the Santa Barbara Dads group, which Nieves founded last spring.

May’s papa party offered, along with the suds, a learning experience and camaraderie among fathers, which Nieves believes is much needed.

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“When my wife had our son, she immediately became part of at least five mom groups and classes that offered her help, advice, friendship and training,” Nieves said. “As a first-time father, I really only had my brothers, who had children themselves, to turn to.”

Scientific studies have shown that as fathers have taken a more active role in child rearing, they’ve faced loneliness, doubt and confusion.

Researchers Chris Knoester and David J. Eggebeen wrote in 2006 in the “Journal of Family Issues” that fatherhood leads “to declines in feelings of well-being and participation in social activities” as fathers spend less time with friends.

Clinical psychologists Hillary Halpern and Maureen Perry-Jenkins documented that the transition from single life to fatherhood is often accompanied by a roller coaster of emotions. And researchers from Stockholm’s Karolinska Institute determined in a 2021 study that fathers might require help “during their transition to fatherhood.”

Eric Drachman, of Santa Barbara, center, pays close attention as hair stylist Chi Jou Lin, left, teaches

Eric Drachman, of Santa Barbara, center, pays close attention as hair stylist Chi Jou Lin, left, teaches a group of dads how to style their daughters’ hair.

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A mannequin head sits on a tripod at Captain Fatty's Brewery

A detail of one of the mannequin heads.

One such way to assist men is specifically a fathers group, according to the 2021 study.

Most men “were mostly satisfied with participating in father groups and described that they positively impacted their relationship with their partner and child.”

The increased contact also helped improve “their self-confidence and family equality and decreased their loneliness.”

Nieves agreed that his leisure time and focus changed sharply after the birth of his child, Hudson, now 3 years old, as did his friend group updates.

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“They were talking about all this crazy fun or TV shows and I was talking about my son being able to lift his head,” Nieves said. “That’s when I knew I had to branch out.”

Nieves, then living in Costa Mesa with his wife, Katie, created the Orange County Dads club in October 2023.

Dads learn how to style their daughters' hair on a mannequin.

Scientific studies have shown that as fathers have taken a more active role in child rearing, they’ve faced loneliness, doubt and confusion.

His group of merry men held meetups at coffee shops, beer halls and the zoo, hosted holiday hootenannies and even offered CPR classes.

Its success helped spawn a chapter in the Whittier area.

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Though strictly a fathers club, the group, Nieves said, has grown thanks to wives and partners sharing his social media posts with their husbands.

Mikhail Alfon, founder of Blue Light Media, a social media strategy agency, took his son, Santos, to multiple Orange County meetups.

“This is our first child and obviously life changes a lot,” said Alfon in a social media post. “Finding peers and friends that are in the same stage of life is great.”

That sense of community, however, faced a challenge as Nieves and his family purchased a home in Santa Barbara and moved in April 2025.

Childhood friends Peter Aguilar and Fredy Medel, from left, style a mannequin's hair.

Peter Aguilar, left, and Fredy Medel work on their technique. Medel’s partner, Daniela Fajardo, holding their 1-year-old daughter, Faylani, records the event.

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Within a month, however, he had established a Santa Barbara-based dads group. Their first meetup was in May 2025, and they’ve made a point to gather once a month.

Austin Jones, a Santa Barbara-based real estate agent and investor, found Nieves through Instagram.

“I’m a husband, a dad and businessman, and it ends up being a lot of hats but very little support, at times,” Jones said. “It’s nice to find people in the trenches with you.”

Jones was intrigued by Pints and Ponytails as he’s battled the hair-care needs of his 2 ½-year-old daughter, Noa, and her textured, curly locks.

In a short while, Jones had gained enough confidence in whipping his mannequin’s hair into a ponytail that he vowed to try with his daughter soon.

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“I was only pretty good at putting on a headband before this,” he quipped.

The six mannequin heads and the hour of instruction came courtesy of Santa Barbara cosmetologist Chi Jou “Belle” Lin, who offers area mobile services.

“I saw the social media post and a lot of people reached out to me to teach the class,” Lin said. “I had to help.”

Lin said the mannequins she brought varied in hair length and type, from straight to coily, but also fine in texture, as she tried to replicate young children’s hair.

A pint sits among hairstyling tools.

A pint of beer, hairstyling tools and sprays.

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She also taught the fathers basic hair-care techniques, including shampooing, detangling, checking for lice and how to tie ponytails and braids.

Even if they started out reticent, the fathers became active participants, asking questions about creating a neat French braid, what to do about tangled ponytails and how to deal with frightened children, Lin said.

“I was really impressed with the dads and their skills and the real-life questions,” said the stylist, who has personal experience at home in her 2 ½-year-old daughter, Lotus. “Not all men have the courage to ask questions.”

For Nieves, the secret in gaining new dads and retaining others is simplicity.

“If you open the door, the fathers will follow because everyone can use some help,” Nieves said. “But they just need to know it exists and they’re not alone.”

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Dads cheers one another while attending a Santa Barbara Dads Group event called "Pints & Ponytails."

Dads Gabriel Sandoval, left, Jose Guerrero and David Talavera toast one another at the May 22 Santa Barbara County Dads’ “Pints and Ponytails” event in Goleta.

Days after the Goleta get-together, Santa Barbara dad Eric Drachman became a celebrity at the preschool of his daughter, Noa, who is soon to be 3.

“When the videos of the event were posted, the teachers at the school recognized me,” Drachman said. “They would ask my daughter, ‘Who did your hair?’”

The query that means most, however, is when Noa asks her father to fix her hair.

“She asks occasionally,” he said. “It‘s such a fun dynamic we have.”

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This Pride month, teen flicks are recasting familiar tropes with a queer sensibility

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This Pride month, teen flicks are recasting familiar tropes with a queer sensibility

Stacy Clausen and Joe Bird in Leviticus.

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Summer movies aimed at high-schoolers — comedies, romances, horror flicks — have been a tradition for ages. Think Fast Times at Ridgemont High, Dirty Dancing and the original Friday the 13th, which all drew hot-weather crowds back in the 1980s.

This summer, the movies are queer — not just in casting, but in method and purpose. These three teen flicks transform familiar movie styles by bringing them an LGBTQ sensibility.

A raunchy comedy: She’s the He

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You know the drill: a bonkers lose-my-virginity plan is hatched by inseparable high-school best buds who are so eager to get girls to notice them, they can hardly think straight.

So, they don’t think … straight. For reasons that could only make sense to horny 17-year-olds, Ethan and Alex decide the way to catch the attention of the school’s hottest girls is to pretend to be trans.

Filmmaker Siobhan McCarthy uses that premise to tell a sweet story about Ethan (who realizes mid-scam that she really is trans), while also mocking some of the more ridiculous transphobic notions — “bathroom scare,” anyone? — that have been politically weaponized recently.

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When the whole football team decides that donning women’s attire is a small price to pay to get access to the girls’ locker room, McCarthy prompts boisterous laughs while also establishing how idiotic and unlikely this scenario would be in real life. Casting trans men — say, team captain played by Emmett Preciado — as the cis male characters allows McCarthy to further poke at conservative anxieties.

As leads Alex and Ethan, Nico Carney (a sharp trans comic whose read on toxic masculinity proves hilarious), and Misha Osherovich (sweetly affecting as Ethan discovers her true self) head a terrific, mostly trans and non-binary cast. And a similarly queer team behind the camera helps make She’s the He a raucous, touching, seriously fun charmer — think Some Like It Hot meets American Pie with a Heartstopper vibe.

The romance: Girls Like Girls

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This gentle teen love story sprang from a hit song Hayley Kiyoko released in 2015. The music video that accompanied the song pictured a budding lesbian romance and has since racked up over 160 million YouTube views. In 2023, Kiyoko penned a young adult book version, which debuted at the top of bestseller lists. Now, she’s brought all of those elements together in a movie about Coley (Maya da Costa) and Sonya (Myra Molloy), two 17-year-old girls navigating a summer romance that takes both of them by surprise.

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