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Classics Just Twisted Enough to Wear

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Classics Just Twisted Enough to Wear

Hang around the fashion industry for all of, oh, five minutes, and you’ll start to hear the term “classics with a twist.”

Designers say it, writers use it, marketing execs cite it. What they mean, typically, is something familiar, bent just enough to feel fresh — stylistically, and, of course, commercially.

Is it trite? Certainly. But I’ve been thinking about this cliché in recent days, as it applies so well to the best of what I’ve seen trudging through Paris Fashion Week: the clothes and outfits that contort the conventional just enough to make me lean in and say, “What’s going on there … and do I need it?”

It’s what I thought of when I saw the Yankees hat that Sigurd Bank, a forthright Dane who designs Mfpen, a Copenhagen label, was wearing when we met for coffee on Friday morning.

The hat looked like a kindergarten art project set upon by a hammerhead. Its faded brim was cleaved in half, a logo on the side had been stitched over by his daughter and the “NY” logo on the front had been covered with a swatch of plaid fabric held on by a safety pin.

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He wasn’t taking a shot at New York in particular, but he did mention that there was “kind of an anti-U.S. thing going on in Europe” that compelled him to make his hat look less American.

I’ve seen tens of thousands of Yankees hats before, but none like Mr. Bank’s.

I’d also never seen an olive military jacket like the one Andre 3000 wore as he slithered into the Kenzo show just before the music kicked in. Here was the rarest creature at fashion week: a celebrity in the front row wearing his own clothes. What a concept.

The jacket was ragged and shredded. On the back, the musician had screen-printed a photo of his son. The most winning clothes are, as ever, the most personal.

Not that great style can’t be bought. On Friday, I visited the Avenue Montaigne store of Loewe, a brand that is skipping the runway this season as rumors circulate about the future of its creative director, Jonathan Anderson.

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There I found a pair of pebble-grain penny loafers upgraded in a Kermit green so “aaoogah” eye-popping that it almost made me pay the roughly $1,000 price. The right twist can be budgetarily devastating.

If I was thinking more than usual about how much clothes should be tweaked this week, it was because I’d witnessed so much that felt overindulgent, if not borderline silly.

I saw, at Kenzo, bunny suits worn with underwear, an outfit suited only for a deleted scene in a Harmony Korine film. I saw, at Hodakova, a woman “dressed” in a stringless cello that nearly rendered her incapable of walking. At Vivienne Westwood, I saw ties the length of XXL lassos. (Designers, please stop trying to make the tie anything more than it is.)

Before these designers are given the keys to their venues, someone should remind them that a little adjustment can do a lot.

At least a few designers got the memo.

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In a continuation of the paring-it-all-back approach he took in January for his men’s show, Rick Owens presented his version of wardrobe building blocks for women.

“Every once in a while we have to pull it back a bit,” Mr. Owens said backstage. He pulled it back just enough.

I’m not going to say that what Junya Watanabe presented wasn’t out there — moto jackets with sleeves made of boots are only for double-black, diamond-level dressers. But the flared snakeskin-like pants? The black coat made in geometric panels? The leather jacket that looked as if it had swallowed a hula hoop? All classic designs nudged along toward something new.

As for Matières Fécales, a label making its runway debut in Paris, the name almost kept me away. (It translates to fecal matter.) That would’ve been a mistake.

With the backing of Dover Street Market’s brand incubator, this was a sure-footed planting of the flag from the designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran. The pair, who are personalities in Mr. Owens’s extended universe, met in design school in Montreal a decade ago but are largely known for their own alien way of dressing. (Backstage after the show, Mr. Bhaskaran described their style as “posthuman.”) They are probably the only fledgling designers I can think of to already have 175,000 Instagram followers.

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A flighty influencer brand this is not. Their debut, which owed a significant debt to the work of Mr. Owens as well as that of Alexander McQueen, flashed some true chops.

Hourglass blazers brandished shoulders peaked enough to recall the letter M. Sweaters were distressed with care, and leather jackets featured fecund sprouts of shearling at the collar and sleeve hem.

Models wore theatrical white makeup and witchy heels, but the nearly all black palette of the clothes themselves made the collection go down easily. They were classics. Twisted classics, but classics nonetheless.

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BAFTAs apologize after guest with Tourette syndrome uses racial slur during ceremony

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BAFTAs apologize after guest with Tourette syndrome uses racial slur during ceremony

John Davidson attends the 2026 BAFTA Film Awards on February 22, 2026 in London, England.

Dominic Lipinski/Getty Images/Getty Images Europe


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Dominic Lipinski/Getty Images/Getty Images Europe

The British Academy Film Awards (BAFTAs), which were presented on Sunday evening at London’s Royal Festival Hall, have become embroiled in controversy after one of the guests shouted a racial slur, swear words and insults during the televised awards ceremony. The slur was kept in the BBC broadcast, which began airing two hours after the event, as is usual for these honors.

The source of the shouts was John Davidson, the real-life inspiration behind the film I Swear, which chronicles his life with Tourette syndrome, a neurodevelopmental disorder. I Swear was nominated for six prizes and won two BAFTA awards on Sunday, including a lead actor award for Robert Aramayo, who plays Davidson.

While Sinners stars Michael B. Jordan and Delroy Lindo were onstage presenting the award for visual effects, Davidson yelled out the n-word. The actors did not respond in the moment.

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On Monday, BAFTA released a lengthy written apology, saying: “Our guests heard very offensive language that carries incomparable trauma and pain for so many. We want to acknowledge the harm this has caused, address what happened and apologize to all.”

The statement identified Davidson as the source of the outbursts. BAFTA said: “One of our guests, John Davidson MBE, has Tourette syndrome and has devoted his life to educating and campaigning for better understanding of this condition. Tourette syndrome causes involuntary verbal tics, that the individual has no control over. Such tics are in no way a reflection of an individual’s beliefs and are not intentional.

The statement continued: “Early in the ceremony a loud tic in the form of a profoundly offensive term was heard by many people in the room. Michael B. Jordan and Delroy Lindo were on stage at the time, and we apologize unreservedly to them, and to all those impacted. We would like to thank Michael and Delroy for their incredible dignity and professionalism.

“During the ceremony, John chose to leave the auditorium and watch the rest of the ceremony from a screen, and we would like to thank him for his dignity and consideration of others, on what should have been a night of celebration for him.”

According to the Tourette Association of America, between 10 and 15% of people living with the disorder have vocal tics that may include disturbing, insulting or inappropriate language, including swear words and slurs.

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Davidson also shouted out other insults and profanity during the evening, according to Variety.

Referring to Davidson’s outbursts, host Alan Cumming responded from the podium, “You may have heard some strong and offensive language tonight.” He attributed the shouts to Davidson’s condition, adding: “We apologize if you were offended.”

Aramayo also won BAFTA’s EE Rising Star Award, and addressed some of Davidson’s outbursts in accepting that honor. Aramayo said, “John Davidson is the most remarkable man I’ve ever met. Tonight especially, I just want to say that the people living with Tourette syndrome…they need our support and understanding.”

The BAFTAs are broadcast on a tape delay. But the BBC did not edit the audible slur from its broadcast on the television channel BBC1 and on E! in the U.S. Nor did the BBC edit the archival version available in the U.K. on its BBC iPlayer platform until Monday.

On Monday, the BBC responded to NPR in a written statement: “Some viewers may have heard strong and offensive language during the BAFTA Film Awards. This arose from involuntary verbal tics associated with Tourette syndrome, and as explained during the ceremony, it was not intentional. We apologize that this was not edited out prior to broadcast and it will now be removed from the version on BBC iPlayer.”

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‘Golden Bachelor’ Gerry Turner & Fiancée Lana Sutton Buy House For Nearly $1 Million

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‘Golden Bachelor’ Gerry Turner & Fiancée Lana Sutton Buy House For Nearly  Million

Gerry Turner
Scores New $1M Pad With Fiancée Lana Sutton

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In ‘Paradise,’ Sterling K. Brown faces the end of the world : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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In ‘Paradise,’ Sterling K. Brown faces the end of the world  : Pop Culture Happy Hour
In Hulu’s twisty drama series Paradise, Sterling K. Brown plays a Secret Service agent caught up in a web of intrigue after the president of the United States (James Marsden) is assassinated, with no suspect in sight. But at the end of the first episode, we learn this show is about way more than the murder of the head of state. From Dan Fogelman (This is Us), the series is back for a second season, so we’re revisiting our conversation about the show.
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