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A rare treat getting rarer: Chimayo Red, New Mexico's 'holy chile'

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A rare treat getting rarer: Chimayo Red, New Mexico's 'holy chile'

Fidel Martinez raises a quarter-acre of chile at his ancestral home in Chimayo, but he only gives it away to family and friends.

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The two travelers from New Orleans touched their fingers to the reddish-orange chile powder on a napkin, put it on their tongues, and then looked at each other in astonishment.

“Very rich, full-bodied, earthy,” said Erin Seckso.

“I’m a native Louisianan,” said her companion, Letty Boelte, “and I’m used to hot spices. This is something pure. And different.”

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They’re not alone. Many chefs and capsaicin connoisseurs consider red chile from the tiny village of Chimayo, nestled in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains between Santa Fe and Taos, to be the most delicious pepper in the American Southwest. But it’s harder and harder to find.

This tasting took place at El Potrero Trading Post, a 76-year-old store that also sells turquoise jewelry, folk art and Catholic religious items. Potrero carries two kinds of chile: local Chimayo chile and Hatch chile. (In New Mexico, they spell it with an “e”.)

Hatch is by far the most popular New Mexico chile. The peppers are long, hardy and hybridized, and you can find them fresh outside the state. They’re farmed on an industrial scale in southern New Mexico.

By contrast, Chimayo peppers are smaller and curvy. They’re artisanally grown from heirloom seeds originally planted by Pueblo Indians and adopted by Spaniards 400 years ago. The red pods are dried the old-fashioned way, in hanging bunches called ristras — an iconic symbol of the Land of Enchantment.

Raymond Ball, proprietor of El Potrero, says the demand for Chimayo Red is constant but its scarcity means

Raymond Ball, proprietor of El Potrero, says the demand for Chimayo Red is constant but its scarcity means “there’s times when we just run out and there’s nothing we can do about it.”

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“The difference is Chimayo chile has a much better flavor to it,” said the store’s third-generation proprietor, Raymond Ball. “Here in New Mexico, we don’t use chile as a seasoning. We use chile as an ingredient. It wakes up every taste bud, and it’s the main flavor in your mouth.”

At El Potrero, a pound of Chimayo red sells for a hefty $50; a pound of Hatch red is $7.

“I’m surprised we can still provide Chimayo chile in our store,” Ball continued, “given the fact that there are fewer and fewer farmers growing it. The demand is high and there are times when we just run out and there’s nothing we can do about it.”

Just up the road from El Potrero is Rancho de Chimayó, one of the most storied restaurants in New Mexico, founded in 1965 by Arturo and Florence Jaramillo. Mrs. Jaramillo still oversees day-to-day operations, sitting at her desk as waitresses rush past with steaming plates of blue corn enchiladas, carne adovada, and chile rellenos. But even this famous restaurant can’t locate enough Chimayo chile to use it in their James Beard award-winning kitchen.

“It’s the best. The taste is wonderful,” Jaramillo said. “I mean, it takes three ristras to make a pound of red chile. Nobody in the valley has that much chile. As the older people die, the younger people won’t raise it.”

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The village is actually most famous not for its chiles, but for El Sanctuario de Chimayo, a legendary Catholic pilgrimage site and a lovely example of Spanish colonial architecture. Tens of thousands of the faithful make pilgrimages to the shrine during Holy Week, with many stopping in the tiny room off to the side to scoop up some “holy dirt” from a pit in the floor. Believers swear it cures all kinds of maladies, and the anteroom is filled with crutches and testimonials.

Some folks believe the

Some folks believe the “holy dirt” at the famous Catholic shrine, the Sanctuario de Chimayo, makes for “holy chile.”

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“A lot of people believe that the holy dirt…contains a lot of the same elements as the chile does,” says Jason Blum, co-owner of Chimayo Chile Brothers. “I mean, you drive around the Sanctuario up there, and there’s pictures saying ‘holy chile.’ ”

His company buys chile powder locally and ships it anywhere in the world for $68/pound. One of his online retailers sells the holy chile on its website for the unprecedented price of $100/pound.

All of this beg the question, if it’s so valuable, why is there so little of it? Locals estimate fewer than 500 acres are planted every year, compared to 50,000 acres of Hatch cultivated in New Mexico and surrounding states.

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“Truth be told, there’s an epidemic going around. And it has a lot to do with the kids and the youth, and it’s drugs,” said Patricio Chavez, a fifth-generation farmer and artist in town. He sells the heritage pepper for $20 for 12 ounces in his family’s store, the Chimayo Chile Shop.

“We don’t have that generational grandfather, father, son. It’s all broken. Who’s gonna teach the farming if the grampas and dads don’t do it?”

Chavez buys his chile powder—the rich-red color of a New Mexico sunset—from a grower about 10 miles away, technically outside of the Santa Cruz River Valley where Chimayo is located.

“There’s gardens from here to Espanola that are growing the nativo seeds,” Chavez said. “So it’s not just Chimayo. And they’re all wonderful.”

If you Google “Chimayo chile for sale,” lots of online sellers pop up offering bags of ground chile for well under $15. Local retailers say those products are blatantly counterfeit, but there’s nothing they can do about it.

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“It’s just the way businesses are,” said Patricio Chavez with a smile. “Anything you put ‘Chimayo’ on it’s going to sell.”

Ristras of freshly harvested Chimayo red chile are hanging to dry in Fidel Martinez's shed.

Ristras of freshly harvested Chimayo red chile are hanging to dry in Fidel Martinez’s shed.

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Chimayo chile is such a hot commodity that when the biggest grower in the valley finally answered his phone, he evaded an interview and a visit to his fields. “People are already stealing my chiles, man!” he said, asking to remain unnamed.

Finally, a local pepper hobbyist said to come on over and help him harvest.

Fidel Martinez, retired from Los Alamos National Lab, stood in his quarter-acre of knee-high plants growing on his family’s ancestral land. He plucked a handful of the fire-engine-red peppers and tossed them into a basket.

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“Look all over, down into the plants,” he called over his shoulder. “Look, they’re hiding down there. Once they’re red, they’re ready.”

FYI, chiles start out green; they turn red when they ripen. It’s all the same plant.

Fidel and Loyda Martinez don’t sell their crop.

“We plant for family and friends and we give it away,” he said.

Their chiles are so valued that a University of New Mexico plant scientist has sent their seeds to gardeners on all seven continents to test their success in different soils. But the couple said it’s just not the same.

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“The sand is special,” Fidel said. “It’s the land that makes the chile taste really good.”

Loyda, also retired from Los Alamos, chimed in, “It has a sweet flavor. You can plant it all over the world but the taste is different all over the world. So it’s the dirt and the seed that mixed together that make it so unique, this Chimayo chile.”

Martinez chile powder is special. It’s burnt orange, lighter in color and sweeter than chiles for sale in the village. But all the chile powder tasted in Chimayo establishments was exotically delicious, and a powerful validation of the adage: buy local.

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‘Hamnet’ star Jessie Buckley looks for the ‘shadowy bits’ of her characters

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‘Hamnet’ star Jessie Buckley looks for the ‘shadowy bits’ of her characters

Jessie Buckley has been nominated for an Academy Award for best actress for her portrayal of William Shakespeare’s wife in Hamnet.

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Actor Jessie Buckley says she’s always been drawn to the “shadowy bits” of her characters — aspects that are disobedient, or “too much.” Perhaps that’s what led her to play Agnes, the wife of William Shakespeare, in Hamnet.

Buckley says the film, which is based on Maggie O’Farrell’s 2020 novel, offered a chance to counter a common narrative about the playwright’s wife: that she “had kept him back from his genius,” Buckley says.

But, she adds, “What Maggie O’Farrell so brilliantly did, not just with Agnes and Shakespeare’s wife, but also with Hamnet, their son, was to bring these people … and give them status beside this great man. … [And] give the full landscape of what it is to be a woman.”

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The film is nominated for eight Academy Awards, including best actress for Buckley. In it, she plays a woman deeply connected to nature, who faces conflicts in her marriage, as well as the death of their son Hamnet.

Buckley found out she was pregnant a week after the film wrapped. She’s since given birth to her first child, a daughter.

“The thing that this story offered me, that brought me into this next chapter of my life as a mother was tenderness,” she says. “A mother’s tenderness is ferocious. To love, to birth is no joke. To be born is no joke. And the minute something’s born into the world, you’re always in the precipice of life and death. That’s our path. … I wanted to be a mother so much that that overrode the thought of being afraid of it.”

Jessie Buckley stars as Agnes and Joe Alwyn plays her brother Bartholomew in Hamnet.

Jessie Buckley stars as Agnes and Joe Alwyn plays her brother Bartholomew in Hamnet.

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Interview highlights

On filming the scene where she howls in grief when her son dies

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I didn’t know that that was going to happen or come out, it wasn’t in the script. I think really [director] Chloé [Zhao] asked all of us to dare to be as present as possible. Of course, leading up to it, you’re aware this scene is coming, but that scene doesn’t stand on its own. By the time I’d met that scene, I had developed such a deep bond with Jacobi Jupe, who plays Hamnet, and [co-stars] Paul [Mescal] and Emily Watson, and all the children and we really were a family. And Jacobi Jupe who plays Hamnet is such an incredible little actor and an incredible soul, and we really were a team. …

The death of a child is unfathomable. I don’t know where it begins and ends. Out of utter respect, I tried to touch an imaginary truth of it in our story as best I could, but there’s no way to define that kind of grief. I’m sure it’s different for so many people. And in that moment, all I had was my imagination but also this relationship that was right in front of me with this little boy and that’s what came out of that.

On what inspired her to pursue singing growing up

I grew up around a lot of music. My mom is a harpist and a singer and my dad has always been passionate about music, so it was always something in our house and always something that was encouraged. … Early on, I have very strong memories of seeing and hearing my mom sing in church and this quite intense mercurial conversation that would happen between her, the story and the people that would listen to her. And at the end of it, something had been cracked between them and these strangers would come up with tears in their eyes. And I guess I saw the power of storytelling through my mom’s singing at a very young age, and that was definitely something that made me think I want to do that.

On her first big break performing as a teen on the BBC singing competition I’d Do Anything — and being criticized by judges about her physical appearance

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I was raw. I hadn’t trained. I had a lot to learn and to grow in. I was only 17. I think there was part of their criticism which I think was destructive and unfair when it became about my awkwardness, or they would say I was masculine and send me to kind of a femininity school. … They sent me to [the musical production of] Chicago to put heels on and a leotard and learn how to walk in high heels, which was pretty humiliating, to be honest, and I’m sad about that because I think I was discovering myself as a young woman in the world and wasn’t fully formed. … I was different. I was wild, I had a lot of feeling inside me. I could hardly keep my hands beside myself and I think to kind of criticize a body of a young woman at that time and to make her feel conscious of that was lazy and, I think, boring.

On filming parts of the 2026 film The Bride! while pregnant

I really loved working when I was pregnant. I thought it was a pretty wild experience, especially because I was playing Mary Shelley and I was talking about [this] monstrosity, and here I was with two heartbeats inside me. Becoming a mom and being pregnant did something, I think, for me. My experience of it, it’s so real that it really focuses [me to be] allergic to fake or to disconnection.

Since my daughter has come and I know what that connection is and the real feeling of being in a relationship with somebody … as an actress, it’s very exciting to recognize that in yourself and really take ownership of yourself.

I’m excited to go back and work on this other side of becoming a mother in so many ways, because I’ve shed 10 layers of skin by loving more and experiencing life in such a new way with my daughter. I’m also scared to work again because it’s hard to be a mother and to work. That’s like a constant tug because I love what I do and I’m passionate and I want to continue to grow and learn and fill those spaces that are yet to be filled — and also be a mother. And I think every mother can recognize that tug.

On the possibility of bringing her daughter to travel with her as she works

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I haven’t filmed for nearly a year and I cannot wait. I’m hungry to create again. And my daughter will come with me. She’s seven months, so at the moment she can travel with us and it’s a beautiful life. And she meets all these amazing people and I have a feeling that she loves life and that’s a great thing to see in a child. And I hope that’s something that I’ve imparted to her in the short time that she’s been on this earth is that life is beautiful and great and complex and alive and there’s no part of you that needs to be less in your life. You might have to work it out, but it’s worth it.

Lauren Krenzel and Susan Nyakundi produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.

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‘Evil Dead’ Star Bruce Campbell Reveals He Has Cancer

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‘Evil Dead’ Star Bruce Campbell Reveals He Has Cancer

Bruce Campbell
I’m Battling Cancer

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‘Scream 7’ takes a weak stab at continuing the franchise : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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‘Scream 7’ takes a weak stab at continuing the franchise : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Neve Campbell in Scream 7.

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The OG Scream Queen Neve Campbell returns. Scream 7 re-centers the franchise back on Sidney Prescott. She has a new life, a family, and lots of baggage. You know the drill: Someone dressing up as the masked slasher Ghostface comes for her, her family and friends. There’s lots of stabbing and murder and so many red herrings it’s practically a smorgasbord.

Follow Pop Culture Happy Hour on Letterboxd at letterboxd.com/nprpopculture

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