It’s a truism worth repeating: If you’ve done stellar costume design in a contemporary film, you may as well plan to stay home on Oscar night. It’s been 30 years since the academy has awarded a costume design statuette for work on a non-fantastical or non-period film — and that was for the fairly fantastical-if-contemporary “The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert” — with the second most recent example being 1979’s “All That Jazz.”
Films with contemporary costumes didn’t even score a nomination 20 years ago. But the battle between multi-award-winning veterans Sandy Powell (“The Aviator”) and Colleen Atwood (“A Series of Unfortunate Events”) made for a tense competition — as did the appearance of one of the more famous animated costumers, “The Incredible’s” Edna Mode, at the Feb. 27, 2005, ceremony.
Flying high
Raspy-voiced Pierce Brosnan presented the award along with the animated Mode, who strolled onto the stage and interacted with the actor, who had recently concluded his run portraying James Bond. Mode wasn’t just a character in Pixar’s film; she was at least partly inspired by Edith Head, the costume designer awarded the most trophies (eight) and nomination (35). It was an amusing bit, with Mode totally upstaging Brosnan by calling the costume trophy the “most prestigious award” of the night, and referring to the actors as “models.”
Four of the five nominees were already on the stage as the nominations were read (Bob Ringwood was absent, having retired after working on “Troy”), but it was Powell who triumphed in the end. Her speech was fairly short, largely thanking her “colleagues and partners in crime,” but also giving a personal shoutout to “Marty” (as in “Aviator” director Scorsese) “for being the inspiration for us all.”
This was Powell’s second of three Oscars so far; she has one from 1998’s “Shakespeare in Love” and another for her work in 2009’s “The Young Victoria.” The costume designer has been nominated 15 times, four of them for work on Scorsese films. They first collaborated on 2002’s “Gangs of New York” and most recently on 2019’s “The Irishman.”
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“Marty’s very interested in clothes,” Powell told W Magazine in 2016. “He responds well to men’s clothing in particular. Marty is a clotheshorse himself.” While shooting “The Wolf of Wall Street,” she noted that he’d become “obsessed by ties” and got personally involved in certain outfits. “Quite often, on set, especially on something like ‘Wolf of Wall Street,’ if Leo [DiCaprio] comes onto set with a new suit, the first thing Marty does is feel the cloth, or feel the label.”
Dressed for almost success
Atwood went home empty-handed that evening but has won four Oscars and received 12 nominations. Her trophies are for “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them” (2017), “Alice in Wonderland” (2011), “Memoirs of a Geisha” (2006) and “Chicago” (2003).
Alexandra Byrne (“Finding Neverland”) has scored six nominations in her career, winning her first Oscar in 2008 for “Elizabeth: The Golden Age.” Sharen Davis was onstage for her work in “Ray” and would go on to nab her second nomination for her work in “Dreamgirls.” “Troy” costume designer Ringwood, the only male nominated in the category 20 years ago, had earlier been nominated for his work in 1987’s “Empire of the Sun.”
At the centre of Madhuvidhu directed by Vishnu Aravind is a house where only men reside, three generations of them living in harmony. Unlike the Anjooran household in Godfather, this is not a house where entry is banned to women, but just that women don’t choose to come here. For Amrithraj alias Ammu (Sharafudheen), the protagonist, 28 marriage proposals have already fallen through although he was not lacking in interest.
When a not-so-cordial first meeting with Sneha (Kalyani Panicker) inevitably turns into mutual attraction, things appear about to change. But some unexpected hiccups are waiting for them, their different religions being one of them. Writers Jai Vishnu and Bipin Mohan do not seem to have any major ambitions with Madhuvidhu, but they seem rather content to aim for the middle space of a feel-good entertainer. Only that they end up hitting further lower.
After more than two and a half years of research, planning and construction, Dataland, the world’s first museum of AI arts, will open June 20.
Co-founded by new media artists Refik Anadol and Efsun Erkılıç, the museum anchors the $1-billion Frank Gehry-designed Grand LA complex across the street from Walt Disney Concert Hall in downtown Los Angeles. Its first exhibition, “Machine Dreams: Rainforest,” created by Refik Anadol Studio, was inspired by a trip to the Amazon and uses vast data sets to immerse visitors in a machine-generated sensory experience of the natural world.
The architecture of the space, which Anadol calls “a living museum,” is used to reflect distant rainforest ecosystems, including changing temperature, light, smell and visuals. Anadol refers to these large-scale, shimmering tableaus as “digital sculptures.”
“This is such an important technology, and represents such an important transformation of humanity,” Anadol said in an interview. “And we found it so meaningful and purposeful to be sure that there is a place to talk about it, to create with it.”
The 35,000-square-foot privately funded museum devotes 25,000 square feet to public space, with the remaining 10,000 square feet holding the in-house technology that makes the space run. Dataland contains five immersive galleries and a 30-foot ceiling. An escalator by the entrance will transport guests to the experiences below. The museum declined to say how much Dataland, designed by architecture firm Gensler, cost to build.
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An isometric architectural rendering of Dataland. The 25,000-square-foot AI arts museum also contains an additional 10,000 square feet of non-public space that holds its operational technology.
(Refik Anadol Studio for Dataland)
Dataland will collect and preserve artificial intelligence art and is powered by an open-access AI model created by Anadol’s studio called the Large Nature Model. The model, which does not source without permission, culls mountains of data about the natural world from partners including the Smithsonian, London’s Natural History Museum and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology. This data, including up to half a billion images of nature, will form the basis for the creation of a variety of AI artworks, including “Machine Dreams.”
“AI art is a part of digital art, meaning a lineage that uses software, data and computers to create a form of art,” Anadol explained. “I know that many artists don’t want to disclose their technologies, but for me, AI means possibilities. And possibilities come with responsibilities. We have to disclose exactly where our data comes from.”
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Sustainability is another responsibility that Anadol takes seriously. For more than a decade, Anadol has devoted much thought to the massive carbon footprint associated with AI models. The Large Nature Model is hosted on Google Cloud servers in Oregon that use 87% carbon-free, renewable energy. Anadol says the energy used to support an individual visit to the museum is equivalent to what it takes to charge a single smartphone.
Anadol believes AI can form a powerful bridge to nature — serving as a means to access and preserve it — and that the swiftly evolving technology can be harnessed to illuminate essential truths about humanity’s relationship to an interconnected planet. During a time of great anxiety about the power of AI to disrupt lives and livelihoods, Anadol maintains it can be a revolutionary tool in service of a never-before-seen form of art.
“The works generate an emergent, living reality, a machine’s dream shaped by continuous streams of environmental and biological data. Within this evolving system, moments of recognition and interpretation emerge across different forms of knowledge,” a news release about the museum explains. “At the same time, the exhibition registers loss as part of this expanded field of perception, most notably in the Infinity Room, where visitors encounter the 1987 recording of the last known Kauaʻi ʻŌʻō, a now-extinct bird whose unanswered call becomes part of the work.”
“It’s very exciting to say that AI art is not image only,” Anadol said. “It’s a very multisensory, multimedium experience — meaning sound, image, video, text, smell, taste and touch. They are all together in conversation.”
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