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'The Substance' review: Pretty hurts – InBetweenDrafts

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'The Substance' review: Pretty hurts – InBetweenDrafts

Coralie Fargeat’s The Substance takes a gross, gruesome bite out of modern beauty standards in outstanding fashion.

“Is she pretty on the inside?/Is she pretty from the back?”

That line in Hole’s “Pretty on the Inside” shows the viewpoint of a sex worker, screaming bloody murder at how a woman’s body can be seen as a means to an end. It’s most definitely a criticism, but it’s a bit alarming how many men have used that mantra at face value without looking deeper into how much it lessens a woman’s worth. There have always been men leering at attractive women and dismissing anyone else that doesn’t meet their beauty standards (or sexual standards, if you think harder about it). The snowball effect that creates, from sadness to anger to self-loathing to destruction, is more common than you think. How much is one willing to destroy themselves to be “better?”

That’s the main query of The Substance, or rather the movie’s main character: Elisabeth Sparkle (Demi Moore). She’s living in the gorgeous glow of Hollywood while smiling through daytime TV. That smile starts to crack when her talent agent (Dennis Quaid) says she’s outlived her usefulness now that she’s the shocking, appalling age of *checks notes* 50. Then a mysterious figure gives her the info on something called “The Substance,” which will supposedly bring about a whole new version of Elisabeth. That version calls herself Sue (Margaret Qualley) and her sparkling, 20-something figure is the apple of everyone’s eye. But there must be a balance: seven days of Elisabeth for seven days of Sue. Can Elisabeth live with herself much longer? Or is Sue about to lose control of everything?

Up close and personal.

You will not be able to look away from The Substance. That’s mostly due to writer/director Coralie Fargeat (Revenge) forcing the camera right into the faces and figures of her actors. The amount of intense close-ups stuffed into the movie’s 141 minutes is so unsettling that even M. Night Shyamalan would tell the camera to back away slowly. And yet, the movie is both hard to look at and a visual splendor thanks to the beaming day-glow cinematography from Benjamin Kracun (Promising Young Woman). There’s a druggy haze pumped into its imagery: one minute it has the visual aura of being on ecstasy with hot pinks and lens flares from stage lights, the next minute it harshly cuts between stilted shots of characters and warped images of Hollywood glamor. It’s like if someone spliced a Sabrina Carpenter video into Requiem for a Dream.

And those aren’t the only influences on display, nor are they the most surprising. There are hints of Stanley Kubrick’s fears of lavish society destroying the soul, David Cronenberg’s obsession with the ways of the flesh, and even a scooping of James Gunn’s early days of B-movie body horror. What Fargeat brings to the table is the trick of pleasure to sell the sadness underneath. Sure there are glamorous shots of Elisabeth’s swanky pad and close-ups of Sue’s *ahem* flexible workout video (titled “Pump It Up,” and you’ll see why), but the brokenness of both heroines keeps crashing through the beauty. Even as the movie’s final act shifts into wickedly-enjoyable lunacy, Fargeat still does exceptional work balancing that with the horrors of sexism and beauty standards.

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There could be accusations that all the glitz and goop are window dressing for a very basic message underneath it all. Subtlety is not in the wheelhouse of The Substance, but it doesn’t need to be. A story with themes tied to how someone views themselves would do well to have those themes put right in front of an audience’s faces. They’re looking at their flaws and vanities almost everyday, might as well make them confront the errors of public perception by holding up a mirror. Compare it to Jane Schoenbrun’s equally outstanding I Saw the TV Glow, which balanced the hidden horrors of suburban life with the revelations in coming-of-age through pop culture. While Schoenbrun’s feature has more of a slow-burn simmer and The Substance keeps thrusting itself in your face, both are effective at using gorgeous cinematic imagery to hammer home a deeper message about the self.

Smile like you mean it.

Demi Moore in a scene from the movie "The Substance."

Despite the maximal imagery on display in The Substance, the cast is actually quite minimal. Not to say that they don’t thrust themselves into every scene, far from it. Especially with Demi Moore, who very wisely uses her sharp facial features and piercing stare to show one of the most glorious human breakdowns in recent movie history. The horror and shame in her eyes in unrelenting, not just on the cruel world around her but also on her own reflection. Every time she looks into the mirror, it’s as if she’s moments away from reaching into the glass and strangling herself. Whether she’s silently self-loathing or screaming in rage, Moore goes all-in and delivers. Not only a career-best for Moore, but one of the year’s flat-out best performances.

Speaking of going all-in, there’s Dennis Quaid. For someone who just rolled-out a passion project about his favorite president (and was met with derision), it’s fascinating to see him chew every bit of scenery in the room any time he’s on screen. Perhaps he had to match the attire given to him: overly-patterned suit jackets, hair so coiffed it’s almost frozen, and just a little too much bronzer. And then that sharp-toothed smile, with teeth turning yellow from all the cigarettes he sucks and the butter he lathers on shrimp. It’s a true devil incarnate presence and Quaid looks like he’s having a little too much fun in the role.

As for Margaret Qualley, it speaks to how strong the movie is that she’s the weak link of the three, but still rises to the movie’s occasion. Proving to be a true chameleon in her career, Qualley embraces the hollow beauty of Sue before succumbing to the shock of the movie’s grand finale. It’s as if she’s doing a riff on the down-to-earth Hollywood newcomer she’s likely been pegged as before. The movie ultimately belongs to Moore, but Qualley is exceptional at handling the garish nightmare.

The bottom line.

It’s been a while since a movie has combined lurid spectacle with scathing commentary with such precision. The Substance is near-perfect for not pulling its punches in terms of body horror while also kicking beauty standards in the balls. Its imagery and effects are over-the-top, but there’s a genuine craft in making sure those elements are consistent and confrontational. In an era where Hollywood wants to churn-out overdue sequels and IP rehashes for easily-disposable consumption, The Substance demands that you pay attention. Not only are you not allowed to look away, you have to look closer.

The Substance is now playing in select theaters. You can watch the trailer here.

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Photos courtesy of Mubi. You can ready more reviews by Jon Winkler here.

REVIEW RATING
  • The Substance – 9/10

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Movie Reviews

Film reviews: ‘The Secret Agent’ and ‘Zootopia 2’

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Film reviews: ‘The Secret Agent’ and ‘Zootopia 2’

‘The Secret Agent’

Directed by Kleber Mendonça Filho (R)

★★★★

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Movie Reviews

Fackham Hall movie review & film summary (2025) | Roger Ebert

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Fackham Hall movie review & film summary (2025) | Roger Ebert

You’d think it would be easy to parody beloved period British dramas because they have so many guilty pleasure repeated tropes: huge historic houses, romances within and between upper classes and their servants, swooningly fabulous clothes, luscious meals, fabulous furnishings, and dialogue that sounds witty even when it isn’t because it is delivered in heavenly aristocratic accents with exquisite, RADA-trained diction. But the secret to the really great parody is truly loving whatever it is you’re making fun of. Thus, on a scale from the top (by Grabthar’s hammer, that would be “Galaxy Quest”) to the sloppy (I love you, Wayanses, but noticing something is not the same as being funny about it), “Fackham Hall” comes in around the middle.

Its watchability comes from the very elements it is trying to undermine: the fairy-tale setting of a huge country house, antique furniture, and beautiful people wearing gorgeous period clothes, speaking in accents ranging from elegant upper-class to cute commoner. Most of its jokes are based less on observing what makes these works so popular than on what is silliest or most outrageous. But what’s funny in the writers’ room does not always work on screen. An example of the tone is the title, the name of the characters’ residence, which a character says aloud to make sure we know it sounds like a crude insult to everyone involved.

The story is set in 1931, or, to put it in context, after the end of “Downton Abbey” and around the third of the ensuing films. We are informed, in case you have no exposure of any kind to this genre, in which case, why are you even watching this, that “England was a nation divided by class.” The country is suffering through a depression, but the Davenport family, who have occupied their ancestral home for 400 years, have no such concerns. (The 2,500-acre estate of Knowsley Hall, also featured in “Peaky Blinders,” plays the part of the ancestral home.) 

“The sheer grandeur of Fackham Hall was a testament to splendor and an enduring family legacy,” we are told by a narrator whose identity we will not discover until the end. “They led a decadent life and barely had to lift a finger.” Indeed, Lord Davenport (Damian Lewis) is sipping a cocktail from a glass held to his lips by a servant. He and Lady Davenport (Katherine Waterston) are congratulating themselves on the upcoming wedding of their daughter, Poppy (Emma Laird), to the presumptive heir to the property, Archibald (Tom Felton). “I’m just delighted she’s finally found the right cousin,” Lord Davenport smiles. As anyone who knows this genre understands, only males can inherit the land. Since the Davenports’ four sons, John, Paul, George, and Ringo, all died, this marriage is the only way they will be able to stay in their home. Thus, the motto on the family crest is “Incestuous ad Infinitum.”

The Davenports’ other daughter, considered too old and independent-minded at 23 to be likely to find a husband, is Rose (Thomasin McKenzie). She will soon meet a plucky orphan lad and kind-hearted pickpocket named Eric Noone (as in “no one”), played by Ben Radcliffe, handsome and charming enough to play the lead in any period romantic drama, and wisely calibrates his performance as though he is doing just that.

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Noone is sent to deliver a message to Fackham Hall just as Poppy and Archibald are about to get married, except they don’t, because Poppy makes a dramatic race from the church to the arms of her low-born beloved. This puts the pressure on Rose to take over as Archibald’s fiancée and save the family home.

This is one of those “throw everything at the screen and by the time you realize that one wasn’t funny, four more will have come at you” movies. These include running jokes, anachronisms, sight gags, potty humor (in one case, chamber pot-y humor), slapstick, an extended dick joke, an extended “who’s on first”-type joke involving a character named Watt, sight gags, and verbal misunderstandings, e.g., “You fought [in WWI] with my father.” “No, we were on the same side.” And a tailor shop called “Tailor Swift.”

One element of this film that works well is that the actors understand the assignment, no winking at the audience, except for British comedian/presenter and co-writer of the screenplay, Jimmy Carr, playing a vicar who cannot help running the liturgy texts together to make them sound dirty. The score by Oli Julian and the costumes by Rosalind Ebbutt are also perfectly suitable for the kinds of movies this one spoofs. It’s just the jokes that, like British cocktails, are to American taste lukewarm.

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Movie Reviews

Movie review: Jay Kelly – Baltimore Magazine

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Movie review: Jay Kelly – Baltimore Magazine

They say write what you know, which is probably why there are so many damn films about Hollywood. The latest navel-gazer, Jay Kelly, is about an aging movie star (played, not coincidentally, by aging movie star George Clooney) reflecting on his life and his choices. The film is directed with care and style and generous (if occasionally gimmicky) wit by Noah Baumbach and the performances by both Clooney and Adam Sandler as Ron Sukenick, Jay’s long-suffering manager, are excellent. But a little part of me was like, remind me again why I’m supposed cares about this vain multimillionaire and his extremely niche problems?

Having just wrapped his latest film, the 60-year-old Jay is having an existential crisis, of sorts. It has dawned on him that he spent so much time building his career, his life is empty. He’s neglected the two most important relationships of his life, namely with his daughters. He doesn’t really know who he is beyond the glamorous façade and he has no real friends, other than Ron, who is on the payroll.

If you’re thinking this all sounds a bit familiar that’s because a very similar film came out of Norway earlier this season, Sentimental Value. I’m not going to make broad generalizations about American vs. European films—especially since Baumbach is the spiritual successor to Woody Allen who was deeply influenced by the European greats—but suffice it to say that the Norwegian one, which focused mainly on the inner lives of the abandoned daughters, was better.

The crux of Jay Kelly is that our titular hero is always surrounded by a coterie that includes his manager, a stylist (Emily Mortimer, who co-wrote the script), a bodyguard-cum-butler, a publicist (Laura Dern), and various other hangers on, but he’s supremely lonely. (An on-going joke has Jay complaining he’s always alone just as his bodyguard hands him a cold drink.)

And Ron is beginning to reassess his devotion to Jay. He’s given the better part of his life to this man—willing to drop any other commitment, including to his own children, on a dime to attend to him—but was it all worth it? Are they even friends?

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“Friends don’t take 15 percent,” Jay snaps to Ron during one particularly bruising fight.

But at least Ron still has his family—although his wife (Baumbach’s real-life partner Greta Gerwig in what amounts to an extended cameo) blames him for their daughter’s almost debilitating anxiety. Jay, however, is essentially on his own. His oldest daughter, Jessica (Riley Keough), has all but given up on him. “You know how I know you didn’t want to spend time with me?” she asks him bitterly. “Because you didn’t spend time with me.”

Oof.

And he now he finds himself desperate to connect with his younger daughter, Daisy (Grace Edwards), who is about to embark on a European vacation with her friends before heading off for college.

Daisy has more fondness, or at least more patience, with her dad—she finds him amusing—but she isn’t going to suddenly disrupt her life to spend time with him. She heads off on her own.

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Jay Kelly occasionally employs an A Christmas Carol-style structure where Jay revisits pivotal scenes of his life. One comes after he finds out that the director who gave him his first big break, Peter Scheider (Jim Broadbent), has died. Jay is indebted to Schneider, or should be, at least—and they’ve remained friends. But one of those flashbacks has Schneider begging Jay to do his latest film, as he needs the money. With a kind of cold efficiency masking as kindness, Jay refuses him. We see this a lot with Jay. He is good at indicating friendship and generosity of spirit, but there’s no substance behind his cheer.

At Schneider’s funeral, Jay reconnects with his old acting school roommate, Timothy (Billy Crudup). Turns out, despite his eagerness to grab a beer, Timothy despises Jay—blames him for stealing his life. It is, in fact, not an exaggeration. In another flashback we see cocky young Jay (now played by Charlie Rowe, not quite convincingly) snatch an audition for Schneider’s film right out from under Timothy (Louis Partridge), even using Timothy’s own improvements to the script that Timothy was too shy to incorporate. (The suggestion here is twofold: Yes, Jay stole from Timothy. But also, Jay had the kind of ballsiness to make those embellishments to the script. When he tells Timothy he didn’t have what it took, was he possibly…right?)

Finding out that his old friend, about whom he has warmly nostalgic feelings, actually hates his guts is another turning point for Jay. He’s more determined than ever to repair his relationship with Daisy—perhaps his last hope for redemption—so decides to track her down in Europe, using a lifetime achievement award he’ll be receiving from the Tuscan Film Festival as his excuse.

In one of the film’s most irritating scenes, he is forced to take a train from Paris to Rome with the actual little people, who are depicted as kindly, salt-of-the-earth types; a train full of Mrs. Clauses and Geppettos. Jay watches them, moist-eyed, thinking this is what he has missed in life. It’s beyond patronizing, although Baumbach adds a small dose of reality when someone points out to Jay that the people are on their best behavior because they’re in front of a movie star. Later in the train ride, Jay pulls a Tom Cruise and catches a purse snatcher—it’s a clear inside joke as Clooney even does Cruise’s intense, arm pumping run to catch up to him. Jay is hailed as a hero, but even that is complicated. The man who stole the purse isn’t a hardened criminal but a family man off his meds. (Again, it felt like Baumbach was fighting against his own impulses in that scene.)

Recently, after watching Jerry Maguire for the first time in years, I complained that they didn’t make middlebrow films like that anymore—that is, smart and satisfying, if somewhat facile, films for grownups. This is definitely that. And there’s excellent here work from Clooney, who gives arguably his best performance ever in this a meta dissection of his own career and of the strange paradox of having a life that belongs to everyone but yourself.

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[WARNING: HERE COMES A SPOILER OF SORTS BECAUSE I WANT TO DISCUSS THE FINAL SCENE]

Jay Kelly is ultimately a film about a man living with the consequences of his own narcissism but the final scene, at the Tuscan film festival, does hedge its bets a bit: We see a montage of Jay/Clooney’s films and it brings tears to his eyes. He was great. He did move people. It was a wonderful life, in its own way. He’s so touched by what he sees on screen that he reaches out for the hand of a loved one—but there’s only Ron, so he clutches his hand instead. It’s both sad and kind of beautiful. The film has sneakily been a love story between these two hollow men the whole time.

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