Peter Jones, an Emmy Award-winning writer, has constructed a lovely, fluffy biography of the mail order catalog that swept the 70s and 80s and changed the face (and body) of mens’ fashion and fashion photography. Directed and edited by Bryan Darling at a breezy pace, “All Man: The International Male Story” tells the origin story of the racy male counterpart to “Victoria’s Secret” long before Victoria had something to hide. 

Gene Burkhard, a gay man recently discharged from the Army, had stayed in Europe as a sales rep, traveling throughout the continent in his sports car and making his calls. But he was tired and was on his back to San Diego, his new home, when he made a stop in London. Walking through Soho, Burkhard was startled and intrigued by something he saw in the window of a medical supply shop. Looking curiously like a skimpy jockstrap, he bought one. Certainly the original design was medical support for down under but he was fascinated by the simplicity and comfort of this g-string for men. American designs for mens’ underwear came in two shapes – boxers and tighty whities; European design added the bikini line but that was it in a nutshell (yes, I meant that). You could say that it all started with the “jock sock” and you wouldn’t be wrong. In 1972, Burkhard set up shop in San Diego, redesigned his “jock sock” and commenced producing them.

Mainstream publications refused to run Burkhard’s “jock sock” ads but, in a stroke of genius, he started placing them in “Playboy” magazine and his design took off like a rocket. And from this ad was born the mail order catalog “International Male.” 

What started off as just Burkhard and his secretary Gloria Tomita filling orders for the sock, soon blossomed into a genuine business with photographers, buyers, sales reps and more. Buyers searched the world over for designs they could feature, designs that were far outside the norms set by American retail stores and their associated catalogs. Until “International Male,” American men weren’t wearing rope knit sweaters or skimpy bathing suits. Hawaiian shirts were for Hawaii and velvet vests were too Carnaby Street. And the glorification of the body! Oh my! “International Male” arrived on the scene as  “PlayGirl” magazine was taking off.

But even more than the outré fashions were the barechested, pumped male models wearing, or rather barely wearing the clothes on display. Demographically speaking, it was often women buying the fashions for their previously blandly dressed partners but it was an entirely different demographic who was cradling the catalog/magazine and cutting out the pinups. The models were pedestaled and objects of desire. More than anything, “International Male” was selling fantasy. But, gay or straight, they also sold a lot of clothes. Those orders didn’t just come from major metropolitan areas but also from Kansas and Iowa and North Dakota, etc.

From the first issue of International Male. Photo courtesy of Bethany Radloff/Peter Jones Productions.

Shortly after launching the first issue of the catalog, they opened two stores, one in San Diego, Burkhard’s home, and the other in West Hollywood, a bastion of gay pride and hospitality. The company expanded greatly, even designing and producing their own fashions when other sellers couldn’t provide enough merchandise. Product flew off the shelves and catalog sales skyrocketed. Even Burkhard was surprised by his success and had the good fortune to turn over the accounts to a professional who reversed what was fast becoming a financial disaster despite the huge sales, into a success. Who was buying? As previously mentioned, young women were buying for their boyfriends and husbands. I have to admit that I bought a few things for my husband during the catalog heyday, but I’d have to say that it was a case of “win some, lose some.” He took to the bathing suits, not so much to the rope sweaters, and definitely nothing in velvet. But women, like gay men, looked forward to those catalogs that had something for everyone.

Success attracts attention and soon the offers were pouring in for Burkhard to sell. The highest bidder was Horn and Hardart, famous for the automat but also a leader in catalog sales, who soon changed their company name to Hanover Direct. Burkhard and Tomita, now his Vice President of Sales, retired in 1986 hoping their longtime staff would remain intact. Alas, no. By 1988, Hanover decided that “International Male” was “too gay” and it needed to be straightened. Most of the staff was laid off and the straightening process began. Adding women as accessories was a bandaid on a problem that was never a problem to begin with. Still, with some key staff remaining, the catalog was able to attract the top male models and continue its position as a fashion leader and successful mail order catalog. Burkhard’s original concept of using highly masculine men in outfits that didn’t fit the traditional concept of male attire was a novel and successful approach. The sexualization of the body and clothing that originated in “International Male” was copied to great effect by others,  primarily the reincarnation of “Abercrombie and Fitch.” Burkhard’s creation was influential beyond his wildest dreams and changed the way women and men thought about men’s fashion. They put a straight face on outrageous designs and were satirized for it, only increasing awareness of the brand. Take, for example, the puffy shirt episode of “Seinfeld.” The original puffy shirt was part of the “International Male” catalog featuring their “pirate” motif. Hilariously, it served to highlight how what you see on a model with a perfect body and striking demeanor might not be the perfect fit for the Joe Average that is the rest of us.

But, alas, there’s no happily ever after for “International Male,” although it’s not a sad ending. American male fashion finally caught up and what you could find on their pages eventually became available in retail stores. The last issue of “International Male” came out in 2007. Not a bad run, though, all things considered, although had they waited a bit longer for the tsunami of online sales, they might be still going, giving us all easy access to the soft-core porn that they championed with open shirts, low cut pants, and, never forget, the jock sock.

Opening June 6 at