Lifestyle
The 10 best songs of Eurovision 2025 — and their chances to win
The grand final of Eurovision Song Contest takes place on Saturday in Basel, Switzerland. Above, Melody representing Spain performs in the semifinal on Tuesday.
Harold Cunningham/Getty Images
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Harold Cunningham/Getty Images
The grand final of this year’s Eurovision Song Contest, that annual celebration of melody, rhythm, fabulousness and glitter, takes place this Saturday, May 17, in Basel, Switzerland. In the U.S., it will stream live on Peacock at 3 p.m. ET.
It’s the 69th Eurovision, and if you think that simple numerical fact has not set off a cascade of lewd eyebrow-waggles across the European continent, you don’t know Eurovision. Several countries have sent songs crammed with winking, single-entendre lyrics, from Finland’s “Ich Komme” (“I’m Coming”) to Australia’s “Milkshake Man,” who’s got “a caramel banana that you’ve got to see.”
(Yes, Australia competes in Eurovision; it’s done so for a decade. Don’t get hung up on that. Eurovision is, at the end of the day, a vibe, more than anything else; as such is not beholden to the petty dictates of mere geography.)
Each of the 37 countries participating in this year’s Eurovision Song Contest submitted a song to the semifinals that took place already this week. Those semifinals whittled the field down to the 26 songs which will compete in Saturday’s grand final.
Dancers perform at the start of a dress rehearsal at the Eurovision Song Contest.
Sesbastien Bozon/AFP via Getty Images
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Sesbastien Bozon/AFP via Getty Images
Some countries qualify automatically every year, including the winning country from the previous year — in this case, Switzerland — but most have been determined by viewers watching at home, the so-called televote. Viewers will get another chance to vote for their favorites on Saturday, but this time those votes will only count for 50% of the final scores. The other half will be determined by national juries made up of music industry professionals in the participating countries.
Historically, the televoters embrace the blithe excess of Eurovision – they want visual spectacle, dazzling choreo, big pyrotechnics, walls of sound. For them, a bit of humor, if not outright goofiness, goes a long way. The juries, on the other hand, are more conservative, tending to prize more technical aspects like vocal precision, adroit songwriting and musical composition, plus a pared-down sound mix. They’re suspicious of humor, and hate goofiness.
What to expect on Saturday
During Saturday’s grand final, each performance must adhere to the following rules:
- Songs must be no more than three minutes in length.
- Lead vocals must be performed live.
- No live instrumentation of any kind is permitted.
- During a song, no more than six performers may be onstage at the same time.
I remind folks every year: They’re not kidding around about Rule 2. Eurovision is not and has never been a lip-syncing competition. These performers are singing live, though their instrumentation and backing vocals are pre-recorded. If on Saturday you find yourself beginning to doubt that fact, say during Poland’s entry “Gaja,” sung by a 52-year-old Justyna Steczkowska as she hurls herself through choreo that involves twirls, jumping jacks and what amounts to freaking burpees(!) all while holding a belted note(!), remind yourself that you’re not watching lip-syncing, you’re watching great breath control.
And as for Rule 3: Whenever a performance involves a “band” wailing away on their drums, guitars and/or violins while scowling intently, remind yourself you’re not watching them actually shred, you’re watching them mime. It’s cute.
Here’s how Saturday’s grand final will proceed.
First, all 26 countries perform their songs. Then the audience votes.
While the televotes get tallied, the jury votes are collected over a series of glorified Zoom calls to representatives in each participating country. Some of these representatives are local celebrities who proceed to waste absolutely everybody’s time by doing bits – busting out their putatively hilarious catchphrases, say. The calls are marked by video lags and audio dropouts. There will be long stretches of dead air as the Eurovision hosts wait to receive various juries’ votes while staring down the barrel of the camera dripping in flop-sweat.
The whole process of jury voting is labored, interminable – and freaking delightful.
Once the juries have voted, the reveal of the televotes begins, starting with the country that received the fewest jury votes. If you’ve nipped off to refill your drink or empty your bladder during the jury voting, get your butt back on the couch now, because this? This right here? This is where all the drama happens.
Ziferblat represent Ukraine with their song “Bird of Pray” at the Eurovision Song Contest.
Harold Cunningham/Getty Images
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Harold Cunningham/Getty Images
In mere seconds, countries who’ve been cruelly snubbed by the juries can surge up to within striking distance of the win. Meanwhile, rock-solid jury favorites who seem certain to make at least a top three showing can plummet to the sub-basement of 20th place or below. And each of these abrupt and sometimes humiliating twists of fate is accompanied by a shot of the performers in question, sitting in a booth, smiling wan, hopeful smiles while plaintively waggling tiny national flags. It’s wonderful.
Then the winner will be announced, a trophy will be handed out, and the winner will perform the winning song again. See you next year in [name of major city in winning country]! Good night!
Here are my favorite songs of Eurovision 2025, and my thoughts on their chances to take home the win.
10. Iceland: “Róa” by Væb
YouTube
Væb (it’s pronounced “vibe”) are two blond brothers in matching silver track suits and wraparound sunglasses who write and perform electronic music for the masses. “Róa” is a particularly ravenous earworm – a propulsive, high-energy, inescapably danceable sea shanty. Which makes sense, as it’s a song about “Rowing today, rowing tonight/Rowing to where the stars are bright.”
If you’re scoring at home, it’s one of two entries this year in which Nordic folks offer up jaunty paeans to their favorite recreational activities (see Sweden’s ode to sauna-going, below). Two’s a coincidence, but three’s a trend; fingers crossed next year Denmark submits a stirring ballad about competitive cheese-rolling.
Between the song’s TikTok-ready moves and clever staging, the televoters will eat these kids up, but they’ll be rowing against the current with the juries. (Eurovision juries, in keeping with their well-earned reputations for being snooty sticks-in-the-mud and general snuffer-outers of joy, historically hold electronic dance music in low esteem.)
9. Spain: “ESA DIVA” by Melody
YouTube
Spain had a four-year run back in the early aughts when it placed in the top 10 each year – but since then, its entries have tended to languish down among the twenties. Then suddenly came 2022, when Chanel’s stunning “SloMo” had just about everyone – me included – thinking they had a real shot at taking it all.
That didn’t happen – “SloMo” came in third. But Spain could taste how close they came, and after taking a year to look inward (their 2023 entry, Blanca Paloma’s moody, ethereal “Eaea,” came in 17th), they’ve started ruthlessly A-and-B-testing the “SloMo” formula: 1 (One) sexy diva + 2 to 5 hot dancers + lyrics of self-empowerment + flamenco guitar + disco + sequins.
It didn’t work last year – Nebulossa’s “Zorra” came in 22nd, despite some seriously caked-up backup dancers. But this year they’re tripling down with “ESA DIVA” – a song by a diva, about a diva, radiating sparkly, spangly waves of Big Diva Energy.
You can’t begrudge them chasing that “SloMo” dragon, and Melody’s an intensely charismatic performer who can sell everything this song has to offer. It all builds steadily to the climactic moment when she sings “Esa diva soy YO!” and proceeds to get spun in the air like a dang car-wash sign. You can’t help but think: No yeah I see it. Eres.
8. Germany: “Baller” by Abor & Tynna
YouTube
Layered synths, a reverb-heavy chorus and a beat you can feel in your sternum: Televoters will love it, but the juries will likely sit on their hands.
The lyrics are your standard Eurovision anthem of post-breakup defiance: “You put a dot after the sentence like you never knew me / So I change perfumes / And buy myself a new outfit.” But this brother-sister act (they’re a kind of Austrian, EDM version of Billie Eilish and Finneas), know their way into, out of and around a groove.
Plus there’s a bit of a backstory: Singer Tynna got laryngitis a couple weeks back, and has skipped the pre-contest performances in various cities that help generate buzz among Eurovision fans. But she nailed the vocals in Thursday’s semifinal.
So forget about the juries. When this song comes on, I’ll turn up the volume, close my eyes and dance around my living room, because I know it’s the closest I’ll ever come to getting past the bouncer at Berghain.
7. Netherlands: “C’est La Vie” by Claude
YouTube
A gentle bop, sung by a hot guy with a great voice, with a bit of cool choreo thrown in. That’s straight down-the-line Eurovision, right there; it’ll end up in the top 10. (Though he was a bit pitchy in his semifinal performance. The televoters were and will be forgiving, but Saturday’s juries will not be so easily taken in by the guy’s potent charisma.)
It’s this song’s language(s) that makes it so representative of where Eurovision stands in 2025.
37 countries are participating this year, and 19 languages including English are represented. Just a skosh over half of participants are singing, at least in part, in a language that isn’t English – the number hasn’t been that high for almost two decades. Among those, both the Netherlands and Israel are singing partly in French, and Estonia is singing partly in Italian. (Well. “Italian,” anyway. Long story.)
The fact that “C’est La Vie” features a mix of French and English reflects Claude’s personal history – his family fled the French-speaking Democratic Republic of the Congo for the Netherlands when he was nine, and the song recalls the words of wisdom his mother would sing to him, in French, as he was growing up.
6. Albania: “Zjerm,” by Shkodra Elektronike
YouTube
“Zjerm,” or “Fire,” is classic Eurovision – a Balkan ballad with a driving, insistent beat that pairs two performers whose vocals contrast and even contend with each other.
First, Beatriçe Gjergji’s soaring, plaintive voice lures you in with hopeful imagery of a land and a people who’ve finally turned a corner (“No ambulances / Roaming the streets,” “The skies still will be blue,” “Imagine a minute, try/Without soldiers/With no orphans crying”).
Then Kolë Laca’s raspy, sinister vocals slide in, sounding like the grinding of tectonic plates, to threaten disaster – fire, avalanches, stars trampled underfoot, knives piercing souls, etc.
Then Gjergji defuses these threats by taking up their challenge – and that soul-piercing knife. “Carve in me a clean heart,” she sings, “In the darkness I’ll send you the light.”
Don’t speak Albanian? Doesn’t matter – you can still feel the conflict at the heart of the song in your bones, along with its hard-won, healing-through-pain resolution. It’s all so unabashedly metal you could air-brush it onto the side of a van, and I love it.
If “Zjerm” seems a bit too dark to be embraced by people hearing it for the first time – i.e., by most televoters – just know that this song was made for the juries; it’ll end up doing very well.
5. Poland: “Gaja” by Justyna Steczkowska
YouTube
That voice! That timbre! That choreo! That breath control! That fetish gear!
As if the athletic performance itself weren’t powerful enough, Steczkowska represents returning Eurovision royalty, having competed for Poland exactly thirty years ago.
And just for good measure, she throws in a new-agey “chant for positive outcomes” at the end there (“Zargo!/Raga!/Urra!/Gara!/Jarga!/Jarun!/Era!/Czarodoro!”), which is kind of her signature thing.
Between her talent, her history and her calling on the universe for mystical aid, she’s sure to do very well. Plus, there’s what the song’s about: A beautiful, severe Mother Earth manifesting in tight black latex to berate humanity for its crimes against her (“You, who’ve been hurting me/And who has had my love for nothing/You marked me with your sins/And woke up the scream of loneliness/Within me”). I suspect there’s a non-zero percentage of voters who will, um, appreciate that. Acutely.
4. Latvia: “Bur Man Laimi” by Tautumeitas
YouTube
I love this one, but I’m worried about it. Juries don’t go for this kind of ethereal ethno-pop, and it may prove too gauzy and abstract to grab the televoters on first listen.
If this song has a chance, it will come down to its staging, which beautifully plays up the folklore/fey imagery of the song. And I have to imagine these gorgeous, insinuating six-part harmonies will prove too – well, magical, I suppose – for home viewers to ignore. The beat will help. The beat always helps; any ethnomusicologist will tell you that. (Several members of Tautumeitas studied ethnomusicology. But you guessed that already.)
3. Finland: “Ich Komme” by Erika Vikman
YouTube
Erika Vikman, like the song she’s bringing to the contest, cannot be denied. The song’s in Finnish, but the chorus (and the title) are in German, and it means exactly what you think it means.
“I am Erika,” she sings, “All eros and stamina,” which … sums it up nicely, I feel. Juries may sniff at “Ich Komme’s” unsubtle, four-on-the-floor power, but don’t worry about them. This song has been painstakingly engineered to drive the audience in the stadium, and at home, absolutely nuts. Will you find yourself getting up off your couch to scream “ICH KOMME! ICH KOMME!” along with her? Will you, in your fervor, spill your drink, send pretzels flying and startle the dog? Don’t rule it out.
But if any of that happens, take solace in the final words of the song: “Hey baby/This is how it is/When you fall to the lust trance.”
2. Malta: “Serving” by Miriana Conte
YouTube
Know this: When this joyously, groovily anthemic banger gets performed live at the grand final on Saturday, something magical is going happen inside that arena – something that requires a bit of context.
First, understand that the Maltese word for “singing” is “kant.” “Kant” was the original title for this song when it qualified for Eurovision. At that time, the chorus went, “Serving [Maltese word for ‘singing!’]/Do-re-mi-fa-s-s-serving [Maltese word for ‘singing!’]”
(You will perhaps recall what I said earlier about this year’s being the 69th Eurovision, and how this fact inspired some countries to get a bit cheeky with their submissions.)
At first, the European Broadcasting Union, which owns Eurovision, said the song was acceptable as is. Later they demanded changes to the lyrics. Conte agreed to make them. The title of the song is now “Serving.”
The new chorus goes: “Serving (Ah!)/Do-re-mi-fa-s-s-serving (Ah!)”.
Has the media-savvy Conte remained hilariously out in front of this controversy all Eurovision season long? Has she made a music video that saucily acknowledges, even embraces, the whole to-do? Yes and yes.
So, back to that magical moment: The diehard Eurovision fans who will fill Basel’s St. Jakobshalle arena on Saturday know all about this song’s history. When Conte gets to the chorus, she will dutifully sing the version with the redacted lyrics, as she agreed to do.
But the 12,400 folks in the venue have made no such agreement, and when the moment comes, they will, as one, scream the Maltese word for “singing” at the top of their fool lungs, live, for all the world to hear.
Magical.
1. Sweden: “Bara Bada Bastu” by KAJ
YouTube
Sweden is to Eurovision what the Yankees are to baseball. They win a lot. And when they don’t win, they do very well. They’re the overdogs. They throw a lot of resources at winning. As such, pulling for them risks marking you as a basic fan, a consensus follower, a bandwagon-jumper.
But I can’t help it: This song is an insanely catchy and cleverly staged hyper-super-mega-bop, and I hope it wins the whole thing.
The three-man comedy/music group KAJ is Finnish, but they’re competing for Sweden. Their song is about how great saunas are, and how neat it is to go to them. That’s it; that’s the song. And despite the 69th Eurovision being the horniest on record, this jaunty little number about getting hot and sweaty with other sauna-loving folk is maybe the year’s most wholesome entry.
KAJ just seem so … normal, in their tidy haircuts and dark brown suits. Like regional sales managers from the upper Midwest. Behind them, as they sing, a bunch of lumberjacks build a sauna, strip down to towels, don bucket hats and dance around waving tree branches. As you do.
The song itself mixes Nordic folk and German beer hall with the teensiest dash of disco, and just before it starts feeling repetitive, a key change (it ain’t Eurovision without a key change) fires up the crowd and propels us all toward the climax with big goofy grins on our faces.
Does it help that, between verses, one member of KAJ keeps turning to the camera to gravely intone the word “SAUNA!”? Brother, let me tell you: It doesn’t hurt.
Finnish Group KAJ is representing Sweden at Eurovision with the song “Bara Bada Bastu.”
Sebastien Bozon/AFP via Getty Images
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Sebastien Bozon/AFP via Getty Images
This will be a clear televote favorite, given how assiduously it represents the epitome of pure, distilled, pharmaceutical-grade Eurovision. But I’m confident the juries will dig it too, because the songwriting is smart, the instrumentation is on point, and the sound mix is clean.
But wait! What about ….
There are a handful of other songs that Eurovision oddsmakers (yes, that’s a whole thing) think have a real shot at winning. I’m less convinced.
Austria’s “Wasted Love” by JJ takes a calculated risk by flipping the script on last year’s winner, Nemo’s “The Code.” Where that song offered up a club banger with a bit of opera drizzled over top like sauce, “Wasted Love” is just a great big bowl of opera sauce with a bit of club banger crumbled in. I like this song, but not until the beat drops – which happens 2 minutes and 15 seconds into a song that lasts 3 minutes.
France’s “Maman” by Louane has its vocal fans. It’s a lovely melody, well-sung, and the juries will love it – it just doesn’t have quite enough je ne sais quoi to single itself out for the televoters.
Finally: Never underestimate Ukraine – in Eurovision, or in life. Ziferblat’s “Bird of Pray” is fascinating, and the lead singer’s clear, piping voice is distinctive. But it’s six wholly different songs mashed together, and the moment it settles into one groove, it ditches that one for another. I don’t think the televoters will be able to hook into it, on first listen.
No, I stand by my picks. But there are plenty of songs in contention, so why not head over to the official Eurovision Song Contest YouTube page and check them out for yourself?
When you do, I’m confident you’ll reach the same inevitable conclusion I have, which is of course:
SAUNA!
Lifestyle
You’re Invited! (No, You’re Not.) It’s the Latest Phishing Scam.
When John Lantigua, a retired journalist in Miami Beach, checked his email one recent morning, he was glad to see an invitation.
“It was like, ‘Come and share an evening with me. Click here for details,’” Mr. Lantigua said.
It appeared to be a Paperless Post invitation from someone he once worked with at The Palm Beach Post, a man who had left Florida for Mississippi and liked to arrange dinners when he was back in town.
Mr. Lantigua, 78, clicked the link. It didn’t open.
He clicked a second time. Still nothing.
He didn’t realize what was going on until a mutual friend who had received the same email told him it wasn’t an invitation at all. It was a scam.
Phishing scams have long tried to frighten people into clicking on links with emails claiming that their bank accounts have been hacked, or that they owe thousands of dollars in fines, or that their pornography viewing habits have been tracked.
The invitation scam is a little more subtle: It preys on the all-too-human desire to be included in social gatherings.
The phishy invitations mimic emails from Paperless Post, Evite and Punchbowl. What appears to be a friendly overture from someone you know is really a digital Trojan horse that gives scammers access to your personal information.
“I thought it was diabolical that they would choose somebody who has sent me a legitimate invitation before,” Mr. Lantigua said. “He’s a friend of mine. If he’s coming to town, I want to see him.”
Rachel Tobac, the chief executive of SocialProof Security, a cybersecurity firm, said she noticed the scam last holiday season.
“Phishing emails are not a new thing,” Ms. Tobac said, “but every six months, we get a new lure that hijacks our amygdala in new ways. There’s such a desire for folks to get together that this lure is interesting to people. They want to go to a party.”
Phishing scams involve “two distinct paths,” Ms. Tobac added. In one, the recipient is served a link that turns out to be dead, or so it seems. A click activates malware that runs silently as it gleans passwords and other bits of personal information. In all likelihood, this is what happened when Mr. Lantigua clicked on the ersatz invitation link.
Another scam offers a working link. Potential victims who click on it are asked to provide a password. Those who take that next step are a boon to hackers.
“They have complete control of your email and, in turn, your entire digital life,” Ms. Tobac said. “They can reset your password for your dog’s Instagram account. They can take over your bank account. Change your health insurance.”
Digital invitation platforms are trying to combat the scam by publishing guides on how to spot fake invitations. Paperless Post has also set up an email account — phishing@paperlesspost.com — for users to submit messages for verification. The company sends suspicious links to the Anti-Phishing Working Group, a nonprofit that maintains a database monitored by cybersecurity firms. Flagged links are rendered ineffective.
The scammers’ new strategy of exploiting the desire for connection is infuriating, said Alexa Hirschfeld, a founder of Paperless Post. “Life can be isolating,” Ms. Hirschfeld said. “When it looks like you’re getting an invitation from someone you know, your first instinct is excitement, not skepticism.”
Olivia Pollock, the vice president of brand for Evite, said that fake invitations tended to be generic, promising a birthday party or a celebration of life. Most invitations these days tend to have a specific focus — mahjong gatherings or book club talks, for instance. “The devil is in the details,” Ms. Pollock said.
Because scammers don’t know how close you are with the people in your contact list, fake invitations may also seem random. “They could be from your business school roommate you haven’t spoken to in 10 years,” Ms. Hirschfeld said.
Alyssa Williamson, who works in public relations in New York, was leaving a yoga class recently when she checked her phone and saw an invitation from a college classmate.
“I assumed it was an alumni event,” Ms. Williamson, 30, said. “I clicked on it, and it was like, ‘Enter your email.’ I didn’t even think about it.”
Later that day, she received texts from friends asking her about the party invitation she had just sent out. Her response: What party?
“The thing is, I host a lot of events,” she said. “Some knew it was fake. Others were like, ‘What’s this? I can’t open it.’”
Andrew Smith, a graduate student in finance who lives in Manhattan, received what looked like a Punchbowl invitation to “a memory making celebration.” It appeared to have come from a woman he had dated in college. He received it when he was having drinks at a bar on a Friday night — “a pretty insidious piece of timing,” he said.
“The choice of sender was super clever,” Mr. Smith, 29, noted. “This was somebody that would probably get a reaction from me.”
Mr. Smith seized on the phrase “memory making celebration” and filled in the blanks. He imagined that someone in his ex-girlfriend’s immediate family had died. Perhaps she wanted to restart contact at this difficult moment.
Something saved him when he clicked a link and tried to tap out his personal information — his inability to remember the password to his email account. The next day, he reached out to his ex, who confirmed that the invitation was fake.
“It didn’t trigger any alarm bells,” Mr. Smith said. “I went right for the click. I went completely animal brain.”
The new scam comes with an unfortunate side effect, a suspicion of invitations altogether. It’s enough to make a person antisocial.
“Don’t invite me to anything,” Mr. Lantigua, the retired journalist, said, only half-joking. “I’m not coming.”
Lifestyle
The New Rules for Negotiating With Multibrand Retailers
Lifestyle
The Japanese Designers Changing Men’s Wear
You want to know where men’s fashion is heading? Follow the geeks.
These are the obsessives, fixated, with a NASA technician’s precision, on how their pants fit or on which pair of Paraboot shoes is the correct pair. These are the obsessives who in the aughts were early to selvage denim (now available at a Uniqlo near you!) and soft-shouldered Italian tailoring in the mode that, eventually, trickled down to your local J. Crew.
And where has the attention of this cohort landed now? On a vanguard of newish-to-the-West labels from Japan, like A.Presse, Comoli, Auralee and T.T.
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A.Presse is probably the most hyped of this cohort. What other label is worn by the French soccer player Pierre Kalulu and the actor Cooper Hoffman and has men paying a premium for a hoodie on the resale market? Kazuma Shigematsu, the founder, is not into attention. When we spoke, he wouldn’t allow me to record the conversation. Notes only.
“You mean a better-fitting denim jacket that’s based on an old Levi’s thing? Yeah, OK, sold,” said Jeremy Kirkland, host of the “Blamo!” podcast and the textbook definition of a latter-day Japanese men’s wear guy. Mr. Kirkland, once someone who would allocate his budget to Italian suits, admitted that, recently, over the course of two weeks, he bought four (yes, four) jackets from A.Presse1.
“I’m not really experimenting with my style anymore,” Mr. Kirkland said. “I’m just wanting really good, basic stuff.”
Basic though these clothes appear, their hook is that they’re opulent to the touch, elevated in their fabrication.
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Over the years, the designer Ryota Iwai has told me repeatedly that he is inspired by nothing more than the people he sees on his commute to the Auralee offices in Tokyo. When asked recently if he collected anything, he said nothing — just his bicycle.
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The true somber tale of this wave. The brand’s founder, Taiga Takahashi, died of an arrhythmia in 2022 at 27. The label has continued to plumb history for inspiration. The latest collection had pieces that drew on bygone American postal-worker uniforms.
An Auralee2 bomber looks pedestrian until you touch it and realize its silk. Labels like T.T3 make clothes that echo the specs of a vintage relic yet come factory fresh, notched up, made … well, better. They bestow upon the wearer a certain in-the-know authority.
And so there is a hobbyist giddiness present on Discord channels where 30- and 40-something men trade tips on how to size moleskin trousers by the Japanese label Comoli; at boutiques like Neighbour in Vancouver, British Columbia, where items like a $628 dusty pink trucker jacket from Yoko Sakamoto and an $820 T.T sweater sell out soon after hitting the sales floor.
What’s notable is how swiftly these geeky preferences have wiggled into the broader fashion community. While I was in Paris for the men’s fashion shows a year ago January, all anyone wanted to talk about were things with a “Made in Japan” tag. I would speak with editors who were carving out room in their suitcases for Auralee’s $3,000 leather jackets.
But these were clothes being shown away from the fashion week hordes. The A.Presse showroom was on a Marais side street in a space about as long as a bowling lane and scarcely wider that was crammed with racks of canvas, silk and denim jackets with Pollock-like paint splatters. There were leather jackets as plush as Roche Bobois sofas and hoodies based on sweatshirts made in America a half-century ago.
I got the hype. After 10 days of puzzling over newfangled stuff on the runways, the display of simple, understandable shapes we’ve known our whole lives, but redone with extra care, couldn’t have felt more welcome.
Kazuma Shigematsu, the A.Presse designer, said he had collected a trove of vintage pieces that he housed in a separate space to plumb for inspiration. He made new clothes based on old clothes that benefited from a century of small design tweaks.
By this January, A.Presse had upgraded to a regal maison facing the Place des Vosges, with giant windows and even more reverent hoodies, even more tender leathers. Back in America, I asked an online department store executive what his favorite thing from Paris was. He took out his phone to show me photos of himself trying on a zip-up leather jacket in A.Presse’s high-ceilinged showroom.
On Their Own Terms
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“We never think about trendiness or popular design details,” Ms. Sakamoto said through a translator. “It’s more like functionality, everyday use.” The label has a thing for natural dyes: pants stained with persimmon tannin, yellow ochre and sumi ink, shirts colored with mugwort and adzuki beans.
The sudden popularity of these labels outside Japan can make it feel as if they are new. Yet each label has built a respectable business within Japan, some for more than a decade. Auralee was founded in 2015. A year later, Yoko Sakamoto4 started its line. A.Presse is the relative baby of this cohort at five years old.
“A couple years ago, we would have to buy off the line sheet or go to Japan and see everything,” said Saager Dilawri, the owner of Neighbour, who has an instinct for what spendy, creative types lust after. “Now I think everyone from Japan is trying to go to Paris to get into the international market.”
This movement’s “Beatles on Ed Sullivan” moment occurred in 2018, when Auralee won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo, granting the designer, Ryota Iwai, financial support. Soon after, Auralee was given a slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.
“I had never seen a show before, never thought to do it,” Mr. Iwai said through a translator in February, days after his latest runway show. He has now done five.
As we talked, buyers speaking different languages entered his storefront showroom and ventured upstairs to scrutinize items like a trench coat that looked as if it was made of corduroy but was actually made from cashmere and wool and an MA-1 bomber jacket with a feathery merino wool lining peeking out along the placket.
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The Cale designer Yuki Sato travels throughout Japan to find textiles. Unusually, the company manufactures everything, including leather and denim, in one factory.
At Cale’s5 display off Place Vendôme, the designer Yuki Sato described denim trousers and pocketed work jackets as “modest, but perfectionist.” On the other side of the city, at Soshi Otsuki, whose 11-year-old label Soshiotsuki has gained attention for its warped vision of salary-man suits, I encountered buyers from Kith, a New York streetwear emporium better known for selling logoed hoodies and sell-out sneakers than for tailoring.
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Nearly a decade into its existence, Soshiotsuki has hit a hot streak. Soshi Otsuki won the LVMH Prize in 2025, and he already has a Zara collaboration under his belt. An Asics collaboration is set to arrive in stores soon.
Talking through translators with these designers, I began to worry that it might be unfair to group them together simply because they were all from Japan. Auralee simmers with colors as lush as a Matisse canvas, while Comoli’s brightest shade is brown. Soshiotsuki6 has mastered tailoring, while Orslow is known for its faded-at-the-knee jeans channeling decades-old Levi’s.
Rather, as with the Antwerp Six design clique that sprung out of Belgium in the early 1980s, it is these labels’ origin stories that thread them together.
“They’re being encountered on their own terms and respected on their own account, and they happen to be Japanese,” said W. David Marx, the author of “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style” and a cultural critic who has lived in Tokyo for more than two decades.
“It is a new era of Japanese fashion on the global stage,” Mr. Marx said.
A Love Affair With Japan
Western shoppers have a history of falling hard for clothes from Japan. In 1981, when Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto crashed onto the Paris fashion scene, buyers swooned for their brainy, body-shrouding creations.
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Recently reintroduced as Number(N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita.
Years later, Number(N)ine7 and A Bathing Ape synthesized trends we would call American — grunge, streetwear and hip-hop — polished them up and sold them back to the West.
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Years before American men were trawling the internet for A.Presse, they would scour forums for deals on Visvim’s jeans and sneakers. Today, Visvim has stores in Santa Fe, N.M.; Carmel, Calif.; and Los Angeles.
Into the 2000s, clothing geeks were swapping tips on forums like Superfuture and Hypebeast about how to use a Japanese proxy service to buy Visvim’s8 seven-eyelet leather work boots or SugarCane’s brick-thick jeans.
Along the way, “Made in Japan” became a shorthand for “made well.” This was more than fetishization. As America’s clothing factories became empty carcasses pockmarking the heartland, Japan’s apparel industry grew steroidal.
“Japan still has an incredible manufacturing base for apparel that goes all the way from the textiles to the sewing to the postproduction,” Mr. Marx said.
Today, many Japanese labels produce most of their garments and, crucially, their textiles in Japan. When I first met Mr. Iwai years ago, I asked how he managed to create such lush colors. He answered, as if noting that the sky was blue, that he worked with the factories that developed his fabrics. As I spoke with Mr. Sato in January, he shared that Cale’s factory had been in his family for generations and also produced for other Japanese brands that I would know.
Chris Green, the owner of Ven. Space, a boutique in the Carroll Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn that has helped to introduce a number of these labels to an American market, suggested that because Japan is a small country with a fervent fashion culture, a competitive spirit has been stoked.
“They have to be able to cut through the noise,” Mr. Green said, with brands trying to prove that their cashmere sweater can outclass their peers’, that their silks are sourced from finer factories. What’s more, he said, once these brands have nailed a design, they stick with it. That is something that is important to men, in particular, who hate when a brand abandons its favored pants after a season.
Before he opened Ven. Space in 2024, Mr. Green was an admirer of many of these labels, purchasing them during trips to Japan. As we spoke, he was wearing a pair of Comoli belted jeans that he bought five or so years ago. A similar style is still available.
Primed for What They Were Pitching
At the close of the 2010s, streetwear was running on fumes. Quiet luxury was entering at stage left. If the Row and Loro Piana were expert at subtle, fine-to-the-touch clothes, so, too, were the likes of T.T, Graphpaper and Yoko Sakamoto.
“I went from this guy that wears pear-shaped pants to just wearing, like, a denim jacket,” said Chris Maradiaga, a tech worker and freelance writer in Vancouver. His wardrobe today consists of Comoli’s black-as-night trousers and a purple-tinged coat by Ssstein. His kaleidoscopic Bode jackets gather dust.
That Ssstein clothes have landed in the closets of men on the other side of the world defies the early guidance relayed to Kiichiro Asakawa, the label’s bushy-haired designer. His “senpais,” or mentors, warned him that his reduced designs might leave Western audiences cold. “You need something powerful,” they told him.
He tried, but it wasn’t necessary. It’s the most minimal designs — his cotton gabardine zip-ups, his “easy” pleated trousers — that people are most interested in now. “It actually makes me very happy,” he said through a translator. “My instincts were right.” Mr. Asakawa won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo in 2024.
Adapting to North American Markets (and Men)
Several Japanese designers noted that they had modified their sizing to accommodate larger, American bodies.
“I’ll ask them, Can you lengthen the pants by three centimeters? Because you need that for the Western market,” Mr. Dilawri of Neighbour said, noting that the designers were receptive to those requests.
A number of labels, like Comoli and Soshiotsuki, are already oversize. That’s the look.
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Kiichiro Asakawa ran a Tokyo boutique, Carol, before starting Ssstein in 2016. It’s still there. He, too, said he found inspiration in the everyday, for example when watching an elderly couple have dinner across a restaurant.
There is also the matter of price. On the whole, these clothes are not cheap. See Auralee’s silk bomber jacket, which could be military surplus but feels stolen from a sultan’s palace. It’s roughly $1,700. Ssstein’s9 Carhartt cousin chore jacket with a cowhide collar and a factory-massaged fade? About $1,000. Anyone who has traveled recently in Japan, where the yen is tantalizingly weak, will tell you that these Japanese-made clothes, after being imported, are far pricier in North America.
Yet, as luxury fashion labels continue to price out the aspirational middle-class shopper, many of those same shoppers have convinced themselves that the Japanese labels are a better value. A cashmere coat at Prada is $10,000, and you’ll need $1,690 to own a cotton-blend cardigan from Margiela. Similar pieces from Japanese labels can be half that price, or less.
“Brands like Bottega, Balenciaga, the Row — all that stuff — are so unobtainable,” said Mr. Kirkland, whose clothing budget has shifted to A.Presse. “I will never be in that price bracket,” he added, “but I’m wealthy enough to buy a chore coat for $800.”
Of course, Mr. Kirkland and all of the fans of these labels could own a chore coat for far less — but then it wouldn’t be “Made in Japan.”
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