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At the Louvre, the Biggest Fashion Show in Paris

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At the Louvre, the Biggest Fashion Show in Paris

Sixteenth-century ornamental timepieces frame a crystal-studded metal bodysuit by Thierry Mugler. Gilded silver reliquaries with sculpted hands stand next to a pair of Hermès gloves. A ceramic hand warmer from Faenza, Italy, that looks like a book is twinned with a Chanel clutch that looks like a book.

This is “Louvre Couture,” the first fashion exhibition at the famed Paris museum in its 231-year history.

The last time haute couture caused so much excitement at the Louvre was in 1957, when, in the film “Funny Face,” Audrey Hepburn posed in front of the Winged Victory of Samothrace in a strapless red Givenchy gown and rushed down the Daru staircase, lifting a matching chiffon scarf over her head.

Forty-five fashion houses and designers — from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Iris van Herpen — have lent the museum 100 ensembles and accessories, dating from 1960 to 2025. They are arrayed not among the Louvre’s famous paintings and marble sculptures but throughout the nearly 100,000 square feet of its decorative arts department.

The department, whose unwieldy collection ranges from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century, is crammed with thousands of objects: medieval armor, Renaissance tapestries, carved ivories, bronzes, ceramics, imperial silverware and furniture.

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“It is not easy to enter our museum, especially our collection,” said Olivier Gabet, the director of the decorative arts department. “Our objective is to make more people, different people, younger people, happy, free and relaxed when they come here. We say to them: ‘OK, you love fashion. Fashion is a bridge to us.’”

With this exhibition, which opens on Jan. 24, the Louvre joins the ranks of institutions that have discovered how to use the popular culture of dress as a gateway into the world of art. And, more than ever, fashion is seducing French museums and artistic spaces.

Two weeks before the Louvre opened its exhibition on Jan. 24, Dolce & Gabbana opened a fashion spectacle of its own: “From the Heart to the Hands,” in the newly renovated Grand Palais. First opening in Milan last spring, the traveling costume retrospective features more than 200 creations of the house within immersive video installations and elaborate sets.

But this is not a museum exhibition. “This is an experience that is primarily joyful,” said Florence Müller, the creative director of the exhibition. “It is secondarily intellectual. It is not meant to be in a museum.”

Next month, the Musée du Quai Branly, a collection of African, Oceanic, American and Asian works, will open “Golden Thread,” an exhibition focusing on the art of using gold to adorn clothing and jewelry. In May, the Petit Palais, which belongs to the city of Paris, will mount “Worth: The Birth of Haute Couture,” a retrospective on the life and work of the British designer Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895).

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Two fashion museums, one with collections belonging to the state (the Musée des Arts Décoratifs), the other to the city (Palais Galliera), have long featured dazzling permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. More recently, luxury groups like LVMH and Kering have opened their own art exhibition spaces. And Saint Laurent, Dior and Alaïa have all created permanent spaces to show their work.

“Museums and fashion have been dancing with each other for decades,” said Pamela Golbin, the former chief curator of fashion and textiles at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. “Now there’s a real rapprochement. It is not always a successful pairing, but if it triggers an interest from the public — if it can see the art differently — it’s a great way to use the power of fashion.”

The defining example of this approach is, of course, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where the Costume Institute’s blockbuster shows are among the museum’s most visited every year. In acknowledgment of fashion’s ability to lure visitors, the Met is in the midst of a renovation that will relocate the fashion department from the basement, where it has historically been situated, to the former gift shop in the Great Hall, the majestic main entrance.

The Louvre, with 8.7 million visitors in 2024, doesn’t need fashion to boost attendance. On the contrary, it has capped its daily attendance to 30,000 to reduce overcrowding. Only 23 percent of visitors to the Louvre are French; the rest are foreigners. And 66 percent of its visitors are first-timers, almost all of whom line up to see the Mona Lisa.

Since Laurence des Cars became the museum’s director in 2021, she has struggled to woo returning visitors, a younger crowd and more Parisians into the Louvre. She has opened the museum on some evenings, organized concerts and theatrical performances and experimented with a dance-and-exercise circuit. The new fashion exhibition fits neatly into this strategy.

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Indeed, Ms. des Cars expresses so much admiration for the Met’s initiatives that some of her curators complain that she is Met-obsessed.

It is no accident that the Louvre — perhaps in a faint echo of the Met Gala — is twinning the new fashion exhibition with a fund-raising gala, Le Grand Dîner du Louvre, during Paris Fashion Week in March. Dinner will be served among the marble sculptures in the glass-roofed Cour Marly and will be followed by dancing under the pyramid. More than 30 tables were put up for sale, and the fund-raising goal of a million euros has already been exceeded, the museum said.

This exhibition is the natural next step for the Louvre, which has already tiptoed into the world of fashion. In 2022, it was one of six prestigious French museums that commemorated the 60th anniversary of the house of Saint Laurent by exhibiting 50 of his creations among their permanent collections. The Louvre put four of his embroidered and jeweled jackets near the French crown jewels in its gilded Apollo Gallery.

Currently, the small Musée National Eugène-Delacroix, which belongs to the Louvre, has an exhibition called “States of (Un)dress: Delacroix and Clothing,” which explores how carefully the artist chose the clothing in his paintings. And in March, Louvre-Lens, the satellite Louvre museum in northern France, will open an exhibition called “The Art of Dressing: Dressing Like an Artist,” examining what artists chose to wear and why, from the Renaissance to the present day.

“Art historians often have to know the history of clothing in order to know the history of art,” said Bruno Racine, the former head of France’s National Library who now heads the Palazzo Grassi in Venice, which belongs to the French billionaire François Pinault, founder of the Kering luxury group. “This is nothing artificial.”

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The Louvre can never match the Met when it comes to fashion. Unlike the Met, the Louvre is not a private museum but a hierarchical, state-run institution with a limited budget that takes its orders from the Culture Ministry and, ultimately, the French president.

And the Louvre has no clothes. The cruel irony is that France’s national textile collection does belong to the museum but to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which is housed inside the sprawling Louvre structure but is independent of the Louvre museum.

In a confidential memo to the culture minister Rachida Dati earlier this month, Ms. des Cars condemned the disastrous physical state of the museum, including water leaks and temperature variations that endanger artworks, overcrowding, insufficient toilet facilities and poor signage.

Even the glass pyramid showpiece designed by I.M. Pei and inaugurated in 1989 was “very inhospitable,” according to the memo, excerpted on Thursday in Le Parisien newspaper.

But for now, at least, the Louvre’s decorative arts department has one of the best stage sets for showing fashion — namely, the apartments of Emperor Napoleon III. The 40-foot-high Salon-Theatre oozes magnificent excess with crystal chandeliers, a fresco-filled ceiling and gold-leafed stucco ornamentation with vases of flowers and angels playing instruments.

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A mannequin wearing an embroidered red silk and cut-velvet ball gown with a deep ermine hem designed by John Galliano for Christian Dior is set in the center of the Salon. The gown matches the Salon’s red cut-velvet upholstery and drapes perfectly. She looks right at home.

Elaine Sciolino , a contributing writer for The New York Times in Paris, is the author of “Adventures in the Louvre: How to Fall in Love with the World’s Greatest Museum,” to be published in April 2025.

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Photos: 2026 Golden Globes Red Carpet

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Photos: 2026 Golden Globes Red Carpet

Ariana Grande arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif.

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The brightest stars in TV and film kicked off the 83rd annual Golden Globes tonight in Beverly Hills, Calif. with Ariana Grande, Noah Wyle, Teyana Taylor and George Clooney are just some the names who walked the red carpet. This year’s ceremony was hosted by comedian Nikki Glaser.

Here’s a glimpse of what some of the attendees are wearing tonight.

Michael B. Jordan arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

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Nikki Glaser Wears ‘Spinal Tap’ Hat to Tribute Rob Reiner at Golden Globes

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Nikki Glaser Wears ‘Spinal Tap’ Hat to Tribute Rob Reiner at Golden Globes

2026 Golden Globes
Nikki Glaser Shouts Out Rob Reiner …
Dons ‘Spinal Tap’ Hat at Close of Show

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Sunday Puzzle: Pet theory

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Sunday Puzzle: Pet theory

On-air challenge

Today’s puzzle is called “Pet Theory.” Every answer is a familiar two-word phrase or name in which the first word start starts PE- and the second word starts T-. (Ex. What walkways at intersections carry  –>  PEDESTRIAN TRAFFIC)

1. Chart that lists all the chemical elements

2. Place for a partridge in “The 12 Days of Christmas”

3. Male voyeur

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4. What a coach gives a team during halftime in the locker room

5. Set of questions designed to reveal your traits

6. Something combatants sign to end a war

7. Someone who works with you one-on-one with physical exercises

8. Member of the Who

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9. Incisors, canines, and premolars that grow in after you’re a baby

10. Nadia Comaneci was the first gymnast to score this at the Olympics

11. What holds the fuel in a British car

Last week’s challenge

Last week’s challenge was a numerical one from Ed Pegg Jr., who runs the website mathpuzzle.com. Take the nine digits — 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. You can group some of them and add arithmetic operations to get 2011 like this: 1 + 23 ÷ 4 x 5 x 67 – 8 + 9. If you do these operations in order from left to right, you get 2011. Well, 2011 was 15 years ago.  Can you group some of the digits and add arithmetic symbols in a different way to make 2026? The digits from 1 to 9 need to stay in that order. I know of two different solutions, but you need to find only one of them.

Challenge answer

12 × 34 × 5 – 6 – 7 + 8 – 9 [or] 1 + 2 + 345 × 6 – 7 × 8 + 9

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Winner

Daniel Abramson of Albuquerque, N.M.

This week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from listener Ward Hartenstein. Think of a well-known couple whose names are often said in the order of _____ & _____. Seven letters in the names in total. Combine those two names, change an E to an S, and rearrange the result to name another famous duo who are widely known as _____ & _____.

If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it below by Thursday, January 15 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle.

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