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How one Mexican immigrant works to honor traditions across borders

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How one Mexican immigrant works to honor traditions across borders

Kevin rides a horse as he leads it to the middle of the rodeo to pose for a picture with his maids of honor at his birthday celebration. He’s asked to be identified only by his first name to protect his safety.

Toya Sarno Jordan


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Toya Sarno Jordan

Kevin is a typical 18-year-old high school teen who loves football, dancing and listening to regional Mexican music superstar Peso Pluma.

His immediate goal is graduating from high school in California, an important milestone since he left Mexico.

His family had faced crime and cartel-driven violence in his native Michoacán. Kevin’s high school was forced to close for several months after frequent shootings and disappearances.

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Normal life in his town was suspended.

No one dared to walk outside or gather at night. Kevin says he missed out on many of the freedoms most teenagers long for.

Groups of organized crime like the one that took control over Kevin’s town often recruit young kids and teenagers to work for them, jeopardizing their already vulnerable futures.

Clouds pass over rows of avocado trees in Michoacán. Control of the 3-billion-dollar market, known as green gold, has fueled violence in the state who's the main producer.

Clouds pass over rows of avocado trees in Michoacán. Control of the $3 billion market, known as green gold, has fueled violence in the state who’s the main producer.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Clouds pass over rows of avocado trees in Michoacán. Control of the 3-billion-dollar market, known as green gold, has fueled violence in the state who's the main producer.

Clouds pass over rows of avocado trees in Michoacán. Control of the $3 billion market, known as green gold, has fueled violence in the state who’s the main producer.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

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Kevin walks to the school bus stop in California on June 21, 2022. Kevin loves math and hopes to attend college to study architecture or civil engineering, which would make him the first of his family to go to college.

Kevin walks to the school bus stop in California on June 21, 2022. He loves math and hopes to attend college to study architecture or civil engineering, which would make him the first of his family to go to college.

Toya Sarno Jordan


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Kevin walks to the school bus stop in California on June 21, 2022. Kevin loves math and hopes to attend college to study architecture or civil engineering, which would make him the first of his family to go to college.

Kevin walks to the school bus stop in California on June 21, 2022. He loves math and hopes to attend college to study architecture or civil engineering, which would make him the first of his family to go to college.

Toya Sarno Jordan

First, a family member was murdered by the cartel controlling his town.

Fearing they’d be next on the hit list, Kevin and his family fled to the U.S. with nothing but a change of clothes.

After a 4-month-long journey to safety, a rare exemption to Title 42 allowed their entry into the U.S. legally. Two years after petitioning for asylum, a lot has changed.

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A photo of Kevin as a child stands on a table in his family’s abandoned house in Michoacán, Mexico on November 14, 2022. The house has remained abandoned and all their belongings remain in the same place.

A photo of Kevin as a child stands on a table in his family’s abandoned house in Michoacán, Mexico on November 14, 2022. The house has remained abandoned and all their belongings remain in the same place.

Toya Sarno Jordan


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Kevin talks with his grandmother during the tacos de carnitas gathering the day after his birthday party. His grandmother came to California especially for the celebration. Kevin and his family used to share the same house in Michoacan; after they left, his grandfather died of COVID-19.

Kevin talks with his grandmother during the tacos de carnitas gathering the day after his birthday party. His grandmother came to California for the celebration. Kevin and his family used to share the same house in Michoacán; after they left, his grandfather died of COVID-19.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Kevin talks with his grandmother during the tacos de carnitas gathering the day after his birthday party. His grandmother came to California especially for the celebration. Kevin and his family used to share the same house in Michoacan; after they left, his grandfather died of COVID-19.

Kevin talks with his grandmother during the tacos de carnitas gathering the day after his birthday party. His grandmother came to California for the celebration. Kevin and his family used to share the same house in Michoacán; after they left, his grandfather died of COVID-19.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Their case is still open, wounds are healing, and the idea of having a life in the U.S. has settled in.

But this life still hinges on a judge’s decision of being granted asylum and the growing backlog of asylum petition cases, which means that migrants such as Kevin might not have a court date in years.

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As he waits, Kevin wants to take a moment to celebrate his 18th birthday by bringing together Mexican traditions in a new place he now calls home.

Building a new identity has been a daily effort for Kevin, the eldest child, and his siblings, but he’s thankful for the opportunity of a new life as he navigates a new language, school, friends and becoming an adult.

He’s also able to help his mother to make ends meet by working on weekends deejaying at parties.

Kevin and his maids of honor pose for a portrait outside the church while a band plays regional music for his birthday on June 17, 2023.

Kevin and his maids of honor pose for a portrait outside the church while a band plays regional music for his birthday on June 17, 2023.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Kevin and his maids of honor pose for a portrait outside the church while a band plays regional music for his birthday on June 17, 2023.

Kevin and his maids of honor pose for a portrait outside the church while a band plays regional music for his birthday on June 17, 2023.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

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Linda, Kevin's mother, prepares a plate of food during Kevin's birthday party in California on June 17, 2023. Family and friends pitched in for the party supplies- his uncle prepared carnitas

Linda, Kevin’s mother, prepares a plate of food during Kevin’s birthday party in California on June 17, 2023. Family and friends pitched in for the party supplies: His uncle prepared carnitas estilo Michoacán, his other uncle provided a live band, the cake was a gift, and even the venue and the horses belonged to someone from his community.

Toya Sarno Jordan


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Linda, Kevin's mother, prepares a plate of food during Kevin's birthday party in California on June 17, 2023. Family and friends pitched in for the party supplies- his uncle prepared carnitas

Linda, Kevin’s mother, prepares a plate of food during Kevin’s birthday party in California on June 17, 2023. Family and friends pitched in for the party supplies: His uncle prepared carnitas estilo Michoacán, his other uncle provided a live band, the cake was a gift, and even the venue and the horses belonged to someone from his community.

Toya Sarno Jordan

A quinceañera celebration is a popular coming-of-age milestone in most Latin cultures. It symbolizes leaving childhood behind, a rite of passage — girls becoming women.

Quinceañera parties are a grandiose celebration for family and friends. The girl is usually escorted by chambelanes, groomsmen with cadet-like costumes who partake in dancing a waltz, a high point of the celebration.

But for men, becoming an adult happens when they turn 18, and it is defined by becoming a protector and provider for their families.

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For Kevin, becoming an adult has taken on a new meaning. “I wanted all my guests to see that I haven’t distanced myself from there (Michoacán),” he said as family and friends gathered the next day to enjoy tacos de carnitas, an unofficial after-party for any quinceañera celebration.

This party, beyond being his rite of passage, felt bittersweet, in a moment in life where he was still clinging to his life back in Mexico; he planned a huge party and gathered as many Michoacanos he could invite to feel a resemblance of this past life, many of them also fleeing violence themselves.

Plastic flowers, tickets, and garbage in their hometown cemetery in Michoacán, a few days after the Day of the Dead celebrations in November 2022.

Plastic flowers, tickets and garbage in their hometown cemetery in Michoacán, a few days after Day of the Dead celebrations in November 2022.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Plastic flowers, tickets, and garbage in their hometown cemetery in Michoacán, a few days after the Day of the Dead celebrations in November 2022.

Plastic flowers, tickets and garbage in their hometown cemetery in Michoacán, a few days after Day of the Dead celebrations in November 2022.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Candles of the Mexican Virgin of Guadalupe sit outside the church where Kevin's Mass took place on June 17, 2023.

Candles of the Mexican Virgin of Guadalupe sit outside the church where Kevin’s Mass took place on June 17, 2023.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

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Candles of the Mexican Virgin of Guadalupe sit outside the church where Kevin's Mass took place on June 17, 2023.

Candles of the Mexican Virgin of Guadalupe sit outside the church where Kevin’s Mass took place on June 17, 2023.

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Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Kevin’s 18th birthday celebrations included a Catholic ceremony, traditional rehearsed dancing with his maids of honor, three changes of clothes, and even a horse for Kevin to ride, something he longed for, as it is the staple of celebrations in Mexico’s ranching culture.

And everyone pitched in — his uncle prepared carnitas estilo Michoacán, his other uncle provided a live music band, the cake was a gift, and even the venue and the horse belonged to someone from his community.

In the U.S., he’s now surrounded by the possibilities of a better future and dreams of going to college to study architecture, which would make him the first of his family to go to college.

Two girls look on at a horse during Kevin's birthday party in June.

Two girls look on at a horse during Kevin’s birthday party in June 2023.

Toya Sarno Jordan

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Two girls look on at a horse during Kevin's birthday party in June.

Two girls look on at a horse during Kevin’s birthday party in June 2023.

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Toya Sarno Jordan

Carlitos, Kevin's youngest brother, poses for a portrait at Kevin's birthday party in June.

Carlitos, Kevin’s youngest brother, poses for a portrait at Kevin’s birthday party in June 2023.

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Carlitos, Kevin's youngest brother, poses for a portrait at Kevin's birthday party in June.

Carlitos, Kevin’s youngest brother, poses for a portrait at Kevin’s birthday party in June 2023.

Toya Sarno Jordan

California has historically received thousands of immigrants from Michoacán, like the astronaut José Hernández Moreno, but the most recent arrivals are people who have been forcibly displaced due to violence. In January, more than 150 people were murdered in the Mexican state.

The ones who can, flee that state. Many try to get to the U.S. That same month, Customs and Border Patrol processed about 66,000 Mexican migrants at the border.

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A family member cleans Kevin's face after the mordida, a Mexican tradition when the birthday boy or girl's face is shoved into a cake for them to take the first bite as they're surrounded by their loved ones chanting Mor-di-da! Mor-di-da!

A family member cleans Kevin’s face after the mordida, a Mexican tradition when the birthday boy or girl’s face is shoved into a cake for them to take the first bite as they’re surrounded by their loved ones chanting Mor-di-da! Mor-di-da!

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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A family member cleans Kevin's face after the mordida, a Mexican tradition when the birthday boy or girl's face is shoved into a cake for them to take the first bite as they're surrounded by their loved ones chanting Mor-di-da! Mor-di-da!

A family member cleans Kevin’s face after the mordida, a Mexican tradition when the birthday boy or girl’s face is shoved into a cake for them to take the first bite as they’re surrounded by their loved ones chanting Mor-di-da! Mor-di-da!

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

People dance at Kevin's 18th birthday party. Kevin gathered as many Michoacanos as he could invite in his community in California, many of whom were from the same small avocado producing town his family had to flee after organized crime took control.

People dance at Kevin’s 18th birthday party. Kevin gathered as many Michoacanos as he could invite in his community in California, many of whom were from the same small avocado-producing town his family had fled after organized crime took control.

Toya Sarno Jordan


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People dance at Kevin's 18th birthday party. Kevin gathered as many Michoacanos as he could invite in his community in California, many of whom were from the same small avocado producing town his family had to flee after organized crime took control.

People dance at Kevin’s 18th birthday party. Kevin gathered as many Michoacanos as he could invite in his community in California, many of whom were from the same small avocado-producing town his family had fled after organized crime took control.

Toya Sarno Jordan

Kevin and his family celebrate and honor their heritage, but their feet and dreams are in the U.S. now.

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“I’m still working on [improving] my English, but my Math teacher told me that if I kept getting good grades, she could help me with an application to [attend] a university in San Francisco.”

Kevin and his maids of honor dance the mariachi song

Kevin and his maids of honor dance the mariachi song “Negrita de mis pesares” at his birthday party in June 2023.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Kevin and his maids of honor dance the mariachi song

Kevin and his maids of honor dance the mariachi song “Negrita de mis pesares” at his birthday party in June 2023.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Kevin rides a horse as he leads it to the middle of the rodeo to pose for a picture with his maids of honor at his birthday celebration. He's asked to be identified only by his first name to protect his safety.

Kevin rides a horse as he leads it to the middle of the rodeo to pose for a picture with his maids of honor at his birthday celebration. He’s asked to be identified only by his first name to protect his safety.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud


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Stephania Corpi Arnaud

Kevin rides a horse as he leads it to the middle of the rodeo to pose for a picture with his maids of honor at his birthday celebration. He's asked to be identified only by his first name to protect his safety.

Kevin rides a horse as he leads it to the middle of the rodeo to pose for a picture with his maids of honor at his birthday celebration. He’s asked to be identified only by his first name to protect his safety.

Stephania Corpi Arnaud

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Toya Sarno Jordan and Stephania Corpi Arnaud are documentary photographers based in Mexico City. You can see more of Toya’s work on her website, toyasarnojordan.com, or on Instagram at @toyasjordan. Stephania’s work is available on her website, stephaniacorpi.com , or on Instagram at @s.corpi

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It Started with a Midnight Swim and a Kiss Under the Stars

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It Started with a Midnight Swim and a Kiss Under the Stars

When Marian Sherry Lurio and Jonathan Buffington Nguyen met at a mutual friend’s wedding at Higgins Lake, Mich., in July 2022, both felt an immediate chemistry. As the evening progressed, they sat on the shore of the lake in Adirondack chairs under the stars, where they had their first kiss before joining others for a midnight plunge.

The two learned that the following weekend Ms. Lurio planned to attend a wedding in Philadelphia, where Mr. Nguyen lives, and before they had even exchanged numbers, they already had a first date on the books.

“I have a vivid memory of after we first met,” Mr. Nguyen said, “just feeling like I really better not screw this up.”

Before long, they were commuting between Philadelphia and New York City, where Ms. Lurio lives, spending weekends and the odd remote work days in one another’s apartments in Philadelphia and Manhattan. Within the first six months of dating, Mr. Nguyen joined Ms. Lurio’s family for Thanksgiving in Villanova, Pa., and, the following month, she met his family in Beavercreek, Ohio, at a surprise birthday party for Mr. Nguyen’s mother.

Ms. Lurio, 32, who grew up in Merion Station outside Philadelphia, works in investor relations administration at Flexpoint Ford, a private equity firm. She graduated from Dartmouth College with a bachelor’s degree in history and psychology.

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Mr. Nguyen, also 32, was born in Knoxville, Tenn., and raised in Beavercreek, Ohio, from the age of 7. He graduated from Haverford College with a bachelor’s degree in political science and is now a director at Doyle Real Estate Advisors in Philadelphia.

Their long-distance relationship continued for the next few years. There were dates in Manhattan, vacations and beach trips to the Jersey Shore. They attended sporting events and discovered their shared appreciation of the 2003 film, “Love Actually.”

One evening, Mr. Nguyen recalled looking around Ms. Lurio’s small New York studio — strewed with clothes and the takeout meal they had ordered — and feeling “so comfortable and safe.” “I knew that this was something different than just sort of a fling,” he said.

It was an open question when they would move in together. In 2024, Ms. Lurio began the process of moving into Mr. Nguyen’s home in Philadelphia — even bringing her cat, Scott — but her plans changed midway when an opportunity arose to expand her role with her current employer.

Mr. Nguyen was on board with her decision. “It almost feels like stolen valor to call it ‘long distance,’ because it’s so easy from Philadelphia to New York,” Mr. Nguyen said. “The joke is, it’s easier to get to Philly from New York than to get to some parts of Brooklyn from Manhattan, right?”

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In January 2025, Mr. Nguyen visited Ms. Lurio in New York with more up his sleeve than spending the weekend. Together they had discussed marriage and bespoke rings, but when Mr. Nguyen left Ms. Lurio and an unfinished cheese plate at the bar of the Chelsea Hotel that Friday evening, she had no idea what was coming next.

“I remember texting Jonathan,” Ms. Lurio said, bewildered: “‘You didn’t go toward the bathroom!’” When a Lobby Bar server came and asked her to come outside, Ms. Lurio still didn’t realize what was happening until she was standing in the hallway, where Mr. Nguyen stood recreating a key moment from the film “Love Actually,” in which one character silently professes his love for another in writing by flashing a series of cue cards. There, in the storied Chelsea Hotel hallway still festooned with Christmas decorations, Mr. Nguyen shared his last card that said, “Will you marry me?”

They wed on April 11 in front of 200 guests at the Pump House, a covered space on the banks of Philadelphia’s Schuylkill River. Mr. Nguyen’s sister, the Rev. Elizabeth Nguyen, who is ordained through the Unitarian Universalist Association, officiated.

Although formal attire was suggested, Ms. Lurio said that the ceremony was “pretty casual.” She and Jonathan got ready together, and their families served as their wedding parties.

“I said I wanted a five-minute wedding,” Ms. Lurio recalled, though the ceremony ended up lasting a little longer than that. During the ceremony, Ms. Nguyen read a homily and jokingly added that guests should not ask the bride and groom about their living arrangements, which will remain separate for the foreseeable future.

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While watching Ms. Lurio walk down the aisle, flanked by her parents, Mr. Nguyen said he remembered feeling at once grounded in the moment and also a sense of dazed joy: “Like, is this real? I felt very lucky in that moment — and also just excited for the party to start!”

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L.A. Affairs: I loved someone who felt he couldn’t be fully seen with me

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L.A. Affairs: I loved someone who felt he couldn’t be fully seen with me

He always texted when he was outside. No call, no knock. It was just a message and then the soft sound of my door opening. He moved like someone practiced in disappearing.

His name meant “complete” in Arabic, which is what I felt when we were together.

I met him the way you meet most things that matter in Los Angeles — without intending to. In our senior year at a college in eastern L.A. County, we were introduced through mutual friends, then thrown together by the particular gravity of people who recognized something in each other. He was a Muslim medical student, conservative and careful and funny in the dry, precise way of someone who has always had to choose his words. I was loud where he was quiet, messy where he was disciplined. I was out. He was not.

I understood, or thought I did. I thought that I couldn’t get hurt if I was completely conscious throughout the endeavor. Los Angeles has a way of making you feel like the whole world shares your freedoms — until you realize the city is enormous, and not all of it belongs to you in the same way.

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For months, our world was confined to my apartment. He would slip in after dark, and we’d stay up late talking about his family in Iran, classical music and the particular pressure of being the son someone sacrificed everything to bring here. He told me things he said he’d never told anyone, and I believed him.

The orange glow from my Nesso lamp lit his face while the indigo sky pressed against the window behind him. In our small little world, we were safe. Outside was another matter.

On our first real date, I took him to the L.A. Phil’s “An Evening of Film & Music: From Mexico to Hollywood” program. I told him they were cheap seats even though they were the first row on the terrace. He was thrilled in the way only someone who doesn’t expect to be delighted actually gets delighted — fully, without guarding it. I put my arm around his shoulders. At some point, I shifted and moved it, and he nudged it back. He was OK with PDA here.

I remember thinking that wealth is a great barrier to harm and then feeling silly for extrapolating my own experience once again. Inside Walt Disney Concert Hall, we were just two people in love with the same music.

Outside was still another matter.

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In February, on Valentine’s Day, he took me to a Yemeni restaurant in Anaheim. We hovered over saffron tea surrounded by other young Southern Californians, and we looked like friends. Before we went in, we sat in the parking lot of the strip mall — signs in Arabic advertising bread, coffee, halal meats, the Little Arabia District — hand in hand. I leaned over to kiss him.

“Not here,” he said. His eyes shifted furtively. “Someone might see.”

I understood, or told myself I did, but I was saddened. Later, after the kind of reflection that only arrives in the wreckage, I would understand something harder: I had been unconsciously asking him to choose, over and over, between the people he loved and the person he loved. I had a long pattern of choosing unavailable men, telling myself it was because I could handle the complexity. The truth was more embarrassing. I thought that if someone like him chose me anyway — chose me over the weight of societal expectations — it would mean I was worth choosing. It took me a long time to see how unfair that was to him and to me.

We went to the Norton Simon Museum together in November, on the kind of gray Pasadena day when the 210 Freeway roars in the background like white noise. He studied for the MCAT while I wrote a paper on Persian rugs. In between practice problems, he translated ancient Arabic scripts for me. I thought, “We make a good team.” Afterward, we walked through the galleries and he didn’t let go of my arm.

That was the version of us I kept returning to — when the ending came during Ramadan. It arrived as a spiritual reflection of my own. I texted: “Does this end at graduation — whatever we are doing?”

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He thought I meant Ramadan. I did not mean Ramadan.

“I care about you,” he wrote, “but I don’t want you to think this could work out to anything more than just dating. I mean, of course, I’ve fantasized about marrying you. If I could live my life the way I wanted, of course I would continue. I’m just sad it’s not in this lifetime.”

I was in Mexico City when these texts were exchanged. That night I flew to Oaxaca to clear my head and then, after less than 24 hours, flew back to L.A. No amount of vacation would allow me to process what had just happened, so I threw myself back into work.

My therapist told me to use the conjunction “and” instead of “but.” It happened, and I am changed. The harm I caused and the love I felt. The beauty of what we made and the impossibility of where it could go. She gave me a knowing smile when I asked if it would stay with me forever. She didn’t answer, which was the answer.

I think about the freeways now, the way Joan Didion called them our only secular communion. When you’re on the ground in Los Angeles, the world narrows to the few blocks around you. Get on the freeway and you understand the whole body of the city at once: the arteries, the pulse, the scale of the thing.

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You understand that you are a single cell in something enormous and moving. It is all out of your control. I am in a lane. The lane shaped how I drive. He was simply in a different lane, and his lane shaped him, and those two facts can coexist without either of us being the villain of the sad story.

He came like a secret in the night, and he left the same way. What we made in between was real and complicated and mine to hold forever, hoping we find each other in the next life.

The author lives in Los Angeles.

L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.

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The Nerve Center of This Art Fair Isn’t Painting. It’s Couture.

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The Nerve Center of This Art Fair Isn’t Painting. It’s Couture.

The art industry is increasingly shaped by artists’ and art businesses’ shared realization that they are locked in a fierce struggle for sustained attention — against each other, and against the rest of the overstimulated, always-online world. A major New York art fair aims to win this competition next month by knocking down the increasingly shaky walls between contemporary art and fashion.

When visitors enter the Independent art fair on May 14, they will almost immediately encounter its open-plan centerpiece: an installation of recent couture looks from Comme des Garçons. It will be the first New York solo presentation of works by Rei Kawakubo, the brand’s founder and mastermind, since a lauded 2017 survey exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.

Art fairs have often been front and center in the industry’s 21st-century quest to capture mindshare. But too many displays have pierced the zeitgeist with six-figure spectacles, like Maurizio Cattelan’s duct-taped banana and Beeple’s robot dogs. Curating Independent around Comme des Garçons comes from the conviction that a different kind of iconoclasm can rise to the top of New York’s spring art scrum.

Elizabeth Dee, the founder and creative director of Independent, said that making Kawakubo’s work the “nerve center” of this year’s edition was a “statement of purpose” for the fair’s evolution. After several years at the compact Spring Studios in TriBeCa, Independent will more than double its square footage by moving to Pier 36 at South Street, on the East River. Dee has narrowed the fair’s exhibitor list, to 76, from 83 dealers in 2025, and reduced booth fees to encourage a focus on single artists making bold propositions.

“Rei’s work has been pivotal to thinking about how my work as a curator, gallerist and art fair can push boundaries, especially during this extraordinary move toward corporatization and monoculture in the art world in the last 20 years,” Dee said.

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Kawakubo’s designs have been challenging norms since her brand’s first Paris runway show in 1981, but her work over the last 13 years on what she calls “objects for the body” has blurred borders between high fashion and wearable sculpture.

The Comme des Garçons presentation at Independent will feature 20 looks from autumn-winter 2020 to spring-summer 2025. Forgoing the runway, Kawakubo is installing her non-clothing inside structures made from rebar and colored plastic joinery.

Adrian Joffe, the president of both Comme des Garçons International and the curated retailer Dover Street Market International (and who is also Kawakubo’s husband), said in an interview that Kawakubo’s intention was to create a sculptural installation divorced from chronology and fashion — “a thing made new again.”

Every look at Independent was made in an edition of three or fewer, but only one of each will be for sale on-site. Prices will be about $9,000 to $30,000. Comme des Garçons will retain 100 percent of the sales.

Asked why she was interested in exhibiting at Independent, the famously elusive Kawakubo said via email, “The body of work has never been shown together, and this is the first presentation in New York in almost 10 years.” Joffe added a broader philosophical motivation. “We’ve never done it before; it was new,” he said. Also essential was the fair’s willingness to embrace Kawakubo’s vision for the installation rather than a standard fair booth.

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Kawakubo began consistently engaging with fine art decades before such crossovers became commonplace. Since 1989, she has invited a steady stream of contemporary artists to create installations in Comme des Garçons’s Tokyo flagship store. The ’90s brought collaborations with the artist Cindy Sherman and performance pioneer Merce Cunningham, among others.

More cross-disciplinary projects followed, including limited-release direct mailers for Comme des Garçons. Kawakubo designs each from documentation of works provided by an artist or art collective.

The display at Independent reopens the debate about Kawakubo’s proper place on the continuum between artist and designer. But the issue is already settled for celebrated artists who have collaborated with her.

“I totally think of Rei as an artist in the truest sense,” Sherman said by email. “Her work questions what everyone else takes for granted as being flattering to a body, questions what female bodies are expected to look like and who they’re catering to.”

Ai Weiwei, the subject of a 2010 Comme des Garçons direct mailer, agreed that Kawakubo “is, in essence, an artist.” Unlike designers who “pursue a sense of form,” he added, “her design and creation are oriented toward attitude” — specifically, an attitude of “rebellion.”

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Also taking this position is “Costume Art,” the spring exhibition at the Costume Institute. Opening May 10, the show pairs individual works from multiple designers — including Comme des Garçons — with artworks from the Met’s holdings to advance the argument made by the dress code for this year’s Met gala: “Fashion is art.”

True to form, Kawakubo sometimes opts for a third way.

“Rei has often said she’s not a designer, she’s not an artist,” Joffe said. “She is a storyteller.”

Now to find out whether an art fair sparks the drama, dialogue and attention its authors want.

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