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SF’s well-dressed men come out of hiding

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SF’s well-dressed men come out of hiding


Well-dressed men have been outnumbered in San Francisco by the “comfortable clothing and ugly sneakers” crowd for years. But there have always been menswear aficionados here, geeking out about pocket squares among friends or in online forums. 

Nowadays, the city’s dapper gentlemen, the kind who have a closetful of knit suits for a range of weather, have a new place to meet up, talk fashion, and find fits: Patina Studies, a recurring pop-up flea market that held its second edition Saturday in North Beach. Founded by tailor Daryn Hon and brand consultant Tim Marvin, the event is just as much a social gathering as a shop.

Hon — GM of Tailors’ Keep, an atelier on Washington Street, just steps away from the site of the pop-up — has witnessed men get fitted for a suit they adore, only to lament that they’d be ashamed to wear it to a San Francisco office. Though heading to work looking like a zhlub would once have made you the black sheep, nowadays it’s de rigueur.

“The person that wants to look good is pressured not to do that anymore,” Hon said. But increasingly, he sees more men chafing at the ultra-casualness of modern office attire.

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The hundreds of well-dressed men who showed up to the Patina Studies pop-up were a testament. In that crowd, a tech bro donning Lululemon and Allbirds would have been the exception, not the rule. Luckily, there were none in attendance.

“People are sick of the tech vest,” said Marvin. “[Tech] heroes all wear hoodies and shit. Our heroes are Ralph Lauren — people that have a lot of swag.”

Inside the historic Colombo building across the street from the Transamerica Pyramid, Bay Area-based merchants and buyers mingled with clothing traders hawking their collections. They bantered about what they were wearing, jockeying for position through the aisles. Each merchant had a station on one of two floors, with shelves and dressers to display goods. Derek Guy, an influencer known as much for his spicy political takes about fashion as for his fits, had a small assortment of his own clothing available for purchase at the busiest stand, run by Peter Zottolo (opens in new tab), his cohost on the podcast “Die, Workwear.”

At times, there were dozens waiting to cram into the event space, which, through tasteful curation, had been transformed into something of a gallery, with both the worn outfits and the merchandise contributing to an interwoven tapestry.

Mason Ritchie, a 26-year-old security guard in a Ralph Lauren tweed suit from the ’70s, said he came because he trusted the point of view of the merchants: He knew they’d bring stuff he’d want. Like other attendees, Ritchien, who usually buys clothes from eBay, couldn’t recall any local event over the past few years with the same vibe and offerings as Patina Studies.

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“When this happens, everybody knows,” he said of the city’s menswear nerds. He was among his people.

Justin Ling, a 35-year-old hairdresser, was there to check out military-style apparel, which is having a moment. Ling arrived wearing a vintage German military jacket, as well as a military thermal sweater, trousers, and boots from Big Rock Candy Mountaineering (opens in new tab).

He likes the style because it is comfortable but also holds up well. “You don’t have to baby it,” he said.

Some of the merchants first attended Patina Studies as shoppers last time around, in September. Menswear influencer Brian Chan, with 130,000 followers on TikTok (opens in new tab), was one such client-turned-seller. As he watched over his handpicked assortment of merchandise, he mused about the city’s rising interest in men’s fashion, which he sees as part of the renewal after Covid.

He noted that tech CEOs like Mark Zuckerberg have started to care about their presentation. “People are outside and maturing,” Chan said. “They are thinking about how to feel good.”

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To meet this moment, a crop of menswear-focused brands is emerging from the city, among them Presidio Post, Rising Star Laundry, and Evan Kinori, as well as smaller designers like Keith Hanlon and Rix Cannell.

Calvin Hom, one of SF’s chicest septuagenarians, was in attendance. He noted that it’s impossible to engage wholly in the world of fashion without relying on the inspiration and work of others.

“It’s all about community and connection,” said Hom. 

San Francisco is still relatively small. Unlike in New York or Los Angeles, you could easily run into your boss while out on the town. Marvin believes this is all the more reason to dress authentically.

“People get into trouble when they start wearing things that aren’t who they are — it starts to be phony,” Marvin said. “In this world of AI, if you’re listening to the bot tell you what to do, that’s not you anymore.”

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Photos of our favorite fits from the event

An elderly person wears a black oversized coat, beanie, round sunglasses, and boots, standing against a bright yellow wall with graffiti.
Calvin Hom wearing a Henrik Vibskov cape, Junn.J pants, Feit boots, and Rigards glasses.
A person wears a colorful patterned knit sweater with an American flag sleeve, a brown shearling vest, sunglasses hanging from a scarf, and a silver watch.
Matthew Homyak, a vendor, wearing a Polo country patchwork sweater from 1990, a Polo shearling jacket, Wallace and Barnes pants, and an Omega watch.
A man with glasses, a beard, and a beanie leans against a marble corner, wearing a green jacket, blue shirt, tan pants, and brown shoes.
Dan Fennessy wearing Alden shoes, Anatomica chinos, a vintage Champion sweatshirt, a vintage Lee denim jacket, and a vintage P41 US Marine Corps jacket.
A person wears a brown double-breasted suit with a striped shirt, a silver chain necklace with a turquoise pendant, a brown belt, and a patterned pocket square.
Vendor Brian Chan wearing a custom Collaro suit from Singapore.
Two men stand side by side outdoors; one wears sunglasses, a beige jacket, and gray jeans, while the other wears a red patterned jacket over a blue shirt and dark pants.
Adrian Chang, left, wearing an Our Legacy cardigan, White Mountaineering black leather pullover, Chimala jeans, and Alden shoes with Daniel Li, right, wearing a Kardo jacket, Ralph Lauren shirt, RRL trousers, and Alden shoes.
A man wearing a blue jacket, olive green sweater, beige pants, and brown shoes stands against a tan wall holding a brown paper bag in one hand.
Erik Allen Ford wearing a Anatomica HPT jacket, W.W. Chan trousers, and a Jamiesons of Shetland sweater.
A man with a mustache wears a beige jacket, patterned tie, olive green pants, and a cap, standing on a city street crosswalk.
Dylan Cavaz wearing a And Wander jacket, oxford button down, self-made jeans, and J. Crew paraboots.
A man stands confidently wearing sunglasses, a camel overcoat, a navy blazer, a tan sweater, white pants, and brown dress shoes, beside a stone columned building.
Mickey Winston wearing a Loro Piana camel hair coat, Dormeuil wool silk blend sport coat, Loro Piana corduroy trousers, and To Boot New York shoes with Oliver Peoples glasses.
A man stands outside a building wearing a brown overcoat, brown sweater, light scarf, black trousers, and black shoes, smiling with hands in pockets.
Hampus Sahlin wearing a Filippa K trenchcoat, along with a thrifted wool sweater, thrifted pants, and a Himalayan cashmere scarf.
A man leans against a light stone wall wearing a dark gray coat, brown shirt, loose black pants, white sneakers with pink and blue accents, and a black cap.
Kal Freese wearing San Francisco designer Evan Kinori.





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San Francisco, CA

San Francisco has a tax plan to save Muni

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San Francisco has a tax plan to save Muni


A parcel tax plan to rescue Muni would charge most homeowners at least $129 annually if voters approve the policy in November.

The finalized tax scheme, which updates a version presented Dec. 8, comes after weeks of negotiations between city officials and transit advocates.

The plan lowers the levels previously proposed for owners of apartment and condo buildings. They would still pay a $249 base tax up to 5,000 square feet of property, but additional square footage would be taxed at 19.5 cents, versus the previous 30 cents. The tax would be capped at $50,000.

The plan also adds provisions limiting how much of the tax can be passed through to tenants in rent-controlled buildings. Owners of rent-controlled properties would be able to pass through up to 50% of the parcel tax on a unit, with a cap of $65 a year.

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These changes bring the total estimated annual tax revenue from $187 million to $183 million and earmark 10% for expanding transit service.

What you pay depends on what kind of property you or your landlord owns. There are three tiers: single-family homes, apartment and condo buildings, and commercial properties.

Owners of single-family homes smaller than 3,000 square feet would pay the base tax of $129 per year. Homes between 3,000 and 5,000 square feet would pay the base tax plus an additional 42 cents per square foot, and any home above 5,000 square feet would be taxed at an added $1.99 per square foot.

Source: Jeremy Chen/The Standard

Commercial landlords would face a $799 base tax for buildings up to 5,000 square feet, with per-square-foot rates that scale with the property size, up to a maximum of $400,000.

The finalized plan was presented by Julie Kirschbaum, director of transportation at the San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency, at a board meeting Tuesday.

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The plan proposed in December was criticized for failing to set aside funds to increase transit service and not including pass-through restrictions for tenants.

The tax is meant to close SFMTA’s $307 million budget gap, which stems from lagging ridership post-pandemic and the expiration of emergency federal funding. Without additional funding, the agency would be forced to drastically cut service. The parcel tax, a regional sales tax measure, and cost-cutting, would all be needed to close the fiscal gap.

The next steps for the parcel tax are creating draft legislation and launching a signature-gathering campaign to place the measure on the ballot.

Any measure would need review by the city attorney’s office. But all stakeholders have agreed on the tax structure presented Tuesday, according to Emma Hare, an aide to Supervisor Myrna Melgar, whose office led negotiations over the tax between advocates and City Hall.

“It’s final,” Hare said. “We just need to write it down.”

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Claims in lawsuit against Great Highway park dismissed by San Francisco judge

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Claims in lawsuit against Great Highway park dismissed by San Francisco judge


A San Francisco Superior Court judge dismissed claims in a lawsuit against Proposition K, the ballot measure that permanently cleared traffic from the Great Highway to make way for a two-mile park. 

One advocacy group, Friends of Sunset Dunes, said the legal action affirmed Proposition K’s legal standing and called the lawsuit against the park “wasteful.” 

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Proposition K passed with more than 54% of the vote in November 2024, but the debate didn’t end there. The Sunset District supervisor was recalled in the aftermath of that vote by residents in the district who argued their streets would be flooded by traffic and that the decision by voters citywide to close a major thoroughfare in their area was out of touch with the local community. 

What they’re saying:

Friends of Sunset Dunes hailed the judge’s decision in the lawsuit, Boschetto vs the City and County of San Francisco, as a victory. 

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“After two ballot measures, two lawsuits, three failed appeals, and dozens of hours of public meetings and untold administrative time and cost, this ruling affirms Proposition K’s legal foundation, and affirms the city’s authority to move forward in creating a permanent coastal park to serve future generations of San Franciscans,” the group said in a statement. 

The group added that their volunteers are working to bring the coastal park to life. Meanwhile, “anti-park zealots continue to waste more public resources in their attempt to overturn the will of the people and close Sunset Dunes.” 

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“Now that they’ve lost two lawsuits and two elections, we invite them to accept the will of San Franciscans and work with us to make the most of our collective coastal park,” said Lucas Lux, president of Friends of Sunset Dunes. 

The supervisor for the Sunset District, Alan Wong, doubled down on what he had stated earlier. In a statement on Monday, Wong said he is “prepared to support a ballot initiative to reopen the Great Highway and restore the original compromise.” The compromise he’s referring to is vehicles allowed to drive along the highway on weekdays and a closure to traffic on the weekends. 

Wong, in his statement, added that he’s talked to constituents in his district across the political spectrum and that his values align with the majority of district 4 residents and organizations. 

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When he was sworn in last month, Wong indicated he was open to revisiting the issue of reopening the Great Highway to traffic. He also said he voted against Proposition K, which cleared the way and made Sunset Dunes official. 

Engardio’s two-cents

Last September, Joel Engardio was recalled as the Sunset District supervisor in a special election. The primary reason for his ouster was his support of Sunset Dunes, the park which also saw the support of other prominent politicians, including former Mayor London Breed, former House Speaker Nancy Pelosi and State Senator Scott Wiener. 

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Engardio on Monday issued his own statement after the judge dismissed all claims in the lawsuit against Prop. K. 

“It’s time to consider Sunset Dunes settled. Too many people have seen how the park is good for the environment, local businesses, and the physical and mental health of every visitor,” Engardio said. “Future generations will see this as a silly controversy because the park’s benefits far outweigh the fears of traffic jams that never happened. The coast belongs to everyone and it won’t be long before a majority everywhere will embrace the wonderful and magical Sunset Dunes.” 

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Commentary: Let’s Do Better in 2026 – Streetsblog San Francisco

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Commentary: Let’s Do Better in 2026 – Streetsblog San Francisco


Editor’s note: special thanks to all our Streetsblog supporters! We fulfilled our 2025 fundraising goals. If you’d like to help us do even more, it’s not too late to donate.

I was on my way to dinner with friends on Christmas Eve when my westbound K Ingleside train was turned back at West Portal without explanation. I waited for the next train. It was turned back too. I asked one of the Muni drivers what was going on, and he said no M Ocean View or K Ingleside trains were running past the station.

I guessed it had something to do with the weather—the rain was coming down in sheets. I realized getting an Uber or Lyft at the station, with everybody else doing the same thing, probably wasn’t going to work. I had a good umbrella and rain coat so I started to walk down West Portal Avenue, ducking under awnings as I looked for a good spot to call a Lyft.

I didn’t get far before I saw why the trains were stopped, as seen in the lead photo.

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I don’t know exactly how this blundering driver managed to bottom out his car on the barrier between the tracks. But, for me, it symbolized everything that’s wrong with San Francisco’s auto-uber-alles policies that continue to put the needs of individual drivers above buses and trains full of people. Mayor Lurie reiterated San Francisco’s supposed transit-first policy in his end-of-year directive. But if it’s a transit-first city, why are motorists still prioritized and permitted to drive on busy train tracks in the first place?

Photo of West Portal Ave.’s original configuration, before it was “upgraded” with angled parking and to allow drivers to use the tracks. Photo: Open SF History

Why isn’t the barrier in West Portal positioned to keep drivers from using the tracks, as it was historically? Why do we even have pavement on the tracks? And why haven’t we banned drivers from using West Portal Avenue and Ulloa Street as thoroughfares in the first place, where they regularly interfere with and delay trains?

I should have stopped walking and summoned a Lyft. But being forced by the shitty politics of San Francisco, combined with a shitty driver, to call yet another car, pissed me off. I thought about all the people who got off those trains who can’t afford to call a ride-hail. I thought about the hundreds of people trapped inside trains that were stuck between stations. I continued walking and thinking about all the times I’ve visited Europe and been through similarly busy, vibrant merchant corridors such as West Portal with one major difference: no cars.

Amsterdam. Not saying to turn West Portal into a pedestrian mall necessarily, but it shows what’s possible. Photo: Streetsblog/Rudick

Yes, even on “car-free” streets in Europe, typically cars and delivery vehicles can still cross and access the shops directly for deliveries. But some streets are just not meant to be a motoring free-for-all. Anybody who doubts that merchants flourish in car-free and car-lite environments should either get a passport, or they should take a look at the merchant receipts after a Sunday Streets event. On the other hand, Papenhausen Hardware, which helped block a safety plan that prioritized transit movements through West Portal, went out of business anyway in 2024.

As I walked in the driving rain, my thoughts drifted to 2024’s tragedy, in which a reckless driver wiped out a family of four when she crashed onto a sidewalk in West Portal. San Francisco had an opportunity to finally implement a transit-first project and prevent a future tragedy by banning most drivers from the tracks and preventing them from using West Portal as a cut through. And yet, a supposedly safe-streets ally, Supervisor Myrna Melgar, aligned with a subset of the merchants in West Portal and sabotaged the project.

Since then, I’m aware of at least one other incident in West Portal where an errant driver went up on the sidewalk and hit a building. Thankfully, there wasn’t a family in the way that time. Either way, West Portal Avenue, and a whole lot of other streets that have hosted horrible tragedies, are still as dangerous as ever thanks to the lack of political commitment and an unwillingness to change.

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Another look at the car that blocked Muni on Christmas Eve. Photo: Streetsblog/Rudick

I finally got to my friends’ house, 35 minutes later. They loaned me some dry clothes and put my jeans in the dryer. We had a lovely meal and a great time. My friend drove me to BART for an uneventful trip home (not that BART is always impervious to driver insanity).

In 2026, advocates, allies, and friends, we all need to raise the bar and find a way to make sure politicians follow through on transit first, Vision Zero, and making San Francisco safe. Because the half-assed improvements made in West Portal and elsewhere aren’t enough. And the status quo isn’t working.

On a closely related note, be sure to sign this petition, demanding that SFMTA finish the transit-only lanes on Ocean Avenue.



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