TWISTY ICON Formally named Guangzhou TV Astronomical and Sightseeing Tower, Canton Tower is seen with the Liede Bridge on the foreground, during a night cruise along the Pearl River. —Ronnel Domingo
Carrying mostly Tsinoy tourists and some Philippine-based journalists, the chartered bus has traversed about 17 kilometers of the newly opened sea bridge across the foggy Pearl River estuary. And then the mist parted to reveal the diamond-shaped island in the middle of the water ahead.
Named as West Artificial Island, it is shaped like the body of a kite, with the bridge representing its lengthy tail. The island serves as the mouth of a 6.8-kilometer undersea tunnel, the other end of which emerges onto Shenzhen.
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This is the Shenzhen-Zhongshan Link, tagged at more than $6 billion and opened to traffic last June 30.
This tollway connects two eponymous cities of China’s Guangdong province, and complements the similar bridge-tunnel complex that opened in 2018—the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge—which is more than twice as long and two and a half times as costly.
These two high-profile projects are but hints of the economic might of an area that represents one-ninth of China’s $17.8-trillion national economy in 2023 and dubbed as the workshop or factory of the world.
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Indeed, just about two hours of flight time across and away from the rising tensions in the South China Sea, particularly the portion that is called West Philippine Sea, there is a parallel and less abrasive buzz.
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It is the rumbling of the economic juggernaut that is the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area (GBA), which is considered a counterpart or rival not only to America’s Silicon Valley on the other side of the Pacific but also to the nearer Tokyo-Yokohama Metropolitan Area.
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Accounting for about 11 percent of the world’s second-largest economy after the United States means the economic output of the GBA is comparable to that of Australia or South Korea—each valued at about $1.7 trillion, according to the World Bank.
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In a commentary, DBS Bank notes that the GBA rang up $2 trillion in 2023. It is “one of the top bay areas in the world,” having surpassed the Tokyo Bay Area ($1.8 trillion) and much more so the San Francisco Bay Area ($1.3 trillion).
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Just as the technology and innovation enclave of Silicon Valley in Northern California made waves in the past several decades, the GBA has been and is continuing to shape the world as we know it today.
DBS cites six factors that underpin the GBA—its strategic infrastructure, high-tech manufacturing, being a trade and e-commerce center, a financial center, robust private consumption and resilient property market.
‘9 plus 2’
The tourist bus made the crossing in late August, carrying a test group that sampled a Guangdong route, which ran through five of the nine cities of Guangdong that comprise the GBA along with the two special autonomous regions of Hong Kong and Macao.
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The swing-around covered Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Foshan, Zhongshan and Zhuhai.
The sortie was organized by Shenzhen Airlines and Caloocan City-based New Goldmines Tours and Travels, which also offers other destinations across China.
When asked why a Filipino tourist would choose New Goldmines’ Shenzhen package—over, say, Shanghai or Beijing or other more known destinations—proprietor Ruben Co says it is not about choosing one over another.
“If you want to immerse yourself in 3,000 years of Chinese history, go to Xian (City in Shanxi province). If you want history from the past 500 years, go to Beijing; 200 years, go to Shanghai; for the past century, go to Guangdong,” says Co.
Indeed, how can any noodle dish-loving Filipino not want to see the storied city at the apex of the Pearl River Delta—Guangzhou, also known as Canton?
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The skyline of this capital city of Guangdong is undeniably modern, overlaying its past as a peripheral region far removed from the economic and political centers of the imperial dynasties.
The most popular sight on the horizon is the Canton Tower, which stands at a bank of the Pearl River itself. Nicknamed “Small Waist” due to its twisting shape, the 604-meter-tall broadcasting structure is second only to Japan’s Tokyo Skytree, the world’s tallest tower.
But there are other notable buildings; Guangzhou is home to four of the world’s 100 tallest skyscrapers, according to the United States-based Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat.
These include the Guangzhou CTF Financial Centre (eighth-tallest, at 530 meters, with 111 floors), Guangzhou International Finance Centre (27th, 439 m, 101 floors), CITIC Plaza (44th, 390 m, 80 floors) and The Pinnacle (83rd, 350 m, 60 floors).
Shenzhen beats this with a dozen of such buildings—the most in any one city—including the Ping An Finance Centre, fifth tallest in the world at 599 m and with 115 floors. Little wonder, considering that the city is home to one of China’s three stock exchanges, adding to those in Beijing and Shanghai.
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Shenzhen’s shortest entry in the list is the One Shenzhen Bay Tower 7, 94th at 341 meters and with 71 floors.
Land of the crane
Still, there are more that are being built, showing that the GBA’s brisk growth is still underway. Looking around as the bus breezes along the intercity tollways, one cannot miss the continuing proliferation of construction cranes. Thus, the now old yet persisting pun that the “crane” is China’s national animal (apologies to the giant panda).
Indeed, there is a forest of high-rise residential buildings across the GBA, the population of which is approaching 90 million or about four-fifths of the Philippines’.
Robin Tan, one of the Tsinoys in the group, could not reconcile what is now a metropolis compared to the Shenzhen that he saw in the 1980s.
Tan had the opportunity to cross over the border from adjacent Hong Kong—then still under the British—when Shenzhen was newly designated as one of China’s first special economic zones.
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He was visiting with a former classmate, a resident of Hong Kong who went to high school in the Philippines.
It was a time of openness and reforms when, with Deng Xiaoping at the helm, China was “hiding capabilities and biding time.”
“All I saw was a fishing village, surrounded by farmlands,” Tan says. “Back then, Shenzhen locals highly prized items that were available only in Hong Kong, like some home appliances.”
Now, Shenzhen and the GBA churn out everything and anything that one might need or simply want. In fact, Guangzhou hosts the twice-yearly Canton Fair, aka the China Import and Export Fair.
China’s tourism industry has latched on to a line of a poem that Mao Zedong wrote in the 1930s, during a period of retreat amid escalating civil war, which avers that one who failed to reach the Great Wall is “not a true man” or “not a true hero.”
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Throughout the past century, travelers have embraced America and marveled at the wonders of Japan, despite tribulations inflicted by these nations. Hence, it seems a no-brainer that we should also know more about the latest big player in the neighborhood.
San Francisco isn’t letting the rain that’s in the forecast damper residents’ moods.
Here are some of the top events to check out this week in The City.
Daniel Grace at Book Passage (Monday)
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The London-born author will stop by Book Passage’s Ferry Building outpost for a reading and signing for his dark literary thriller “In the Wake of Golgotha.” The book reimagines Judas Iscariot and Pontius Pilate in modern-day New York’s crime scene. Grace is also a vintner, and guests will be able to taste one of his red wines, which was made at his vineyard in Italy.
Goran Bregovic and his Wedding and Funeral Orchestra (Monday)
The Bosnian musician is coming to Davies Symphony Hall, where he will be joined by his backing ensemble. The group performs Balkan music with brass players, string instruments and vocals.
Out of This World Showcase (Monday)
Comedian Tony Sparks will take over the Orbit Room with help from a rotating cast of fellow Bay Area talents. Located at 1900 Market Street, the watering hole serves pizzas with draft beers, cocktails, wines and other spirits.
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San Francisco’s Next Congress Member? The Candidates Debate (Tuesday)
Supervisor Connie Chan, state Sen. Scott Wiener and progressive activist Saikat Chakrabarti — three candidates vying for San Francisco’s congressional seat — are coming to Sydney Goldstein Theater for a debate hosted by City Arts and Lectures, Commonwealth Club World Affairs of California, Manny’s and KQED. The debate will be moderated by KQED’S Scott Shafer and Sydney Johnson. The candidates will discuss topics including climate policy, immigration and housing and affordability, according to organizers.
State Sen. Scott Wiener, center, progressive-activist Saikat Chakrabarti and Supervisor Connie Chan are among the candidates vying for the congressional seat representing San Francisco.
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Ali Wunderman/Special to The Examiner
Tickets for the event, which is being co-presented by City Arts and Lecture, are available online. They range in price from $18 to $36. The debate starts at 7:30 p.m.
An evening with Nathan Bickert and Levi Gillis (Tuesday)
Specs’ Twelve Adler Museum Cafe will host Nathan Bickert, a pianist who plays jazz and soul music, and Levi Gillis, a saxophonist who performs contemporary, classical and folk music.
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The show runs from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and will take place at 12 William Saroyan Place.
Portrait painting (Wednesday)
Ikea will bring participants down to Market Street for an all-ages workshop, where attendees will learn how to paint by creating their own portraits. Materials will be provided, and children must be accompanied by guardians.
Felt collage art workshop (Wednesday)
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts is staging a drop-in workshop at which participants will use felt to explore color, shapes and imagery and make a collage. Materials will be provided, and attendees can take their creations home. Organizers said this edition is inspired by “gather tender night,” Diedrick Brackens’ solo exhibition on view through Aug. 23.
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Yerba Buena Center for the Arts provides participants with materials for its drop-in workshops.
Courtesy Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
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Live Music: France, Pateka, Agnes Martian (Wednesday)
Employees at the 4 Star Theater are bringing an evening of musical performances to the neighborhood. The lineup features the band France, the four-piece experimental-rock group Pateka, and Agnes Martian, an experimental duo.
Artist reception (Thursday)
Caldwell Snyder Gallery will present a solo exhibition for Napa Valley artist Matt Rogers, who specializes in landscapes and floral paintings. An Oakland native, Rogers trained at the San Francisco Art Institute.
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Thirteen competitors will perform for a chance to headline the Mission parade and festival
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The reception runs from 5 to 7 p.m., with Rogers’ exhibition on view through April 30. The gallery is located at 341 Sutter St.
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Downtown First Thursday (Thursday)
Second Street from Market to Howard streets will once again come alive with a free all-ages block party. This month’s edition celebrates Earth Month. Guests will be able to make reusable art at pop-up stations and shop local businesses, and booths set up by the California Academy of Sciences and the Museum of the African Diaspora will also be present. The former will have games and free giveaways, and the latter will host performances by dancer Natalya Janay Schoaf and DJ Kream. DJ Reggie Watts is this month’s headliner, with his set taking place from 7:45 to 9 p.m.
San Francisco Public Library’s main branch will host a traveling exhibition that highlights wood engravings made by artists from six different countries. Sixty items are on display and over 140 works were submitted, according to organizers.
The opening reception runs from 6 to 7:45 p.m. and will take place at 100 Larkin St.
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After Dark: Immersed in Verse (Thursday)
At this Exploratorium after-hours event, guests ages 18 and up will be able to listen to readings by local poets and learn how to craft their own verses as part of a freestyle workshop. Other activities invite participants to explore the connection between language and physical movement, as well as a lounge where patrons can write and converse with each other.
Exploratorium patrons will be able to participate in activities such as an exercise in which people explore the connections between language and phyiscal movement.
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Courtesy Ida Tietgen Hoeyrup
An evening with Anthony McGill and Gloria Chien (Friday)
Clarinetist McGill will be joined by pianist Chien for a performance at Herbst Theatre. The duo will perform pieces by composers Claude Debussy, Camille Saint-Saens, Andre Messager, Robert Schumann and Johannes Brahms.
Dirty Pop! First Fridays (Friday)
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Bamboo Hut, a North Beach tiki bar, will host an evening where patrons can dance to pop music hits from the 1990s, 2000s and 2020s. DJs will spin tracks by musical acts such as Rihanna, Paramore, Nsync and Britney Spears.
‘16 x 20’ opening reception (Saturday)
Harman Projects, a contemporary art gallery located at 1275 Minnesota St., will host over 30 artists for an exhibition where all entries have been made on 16-inch-by-20-inch surfaces. The exhibition will be on view through April 25, and the gallery is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
The opening reception runs from 5 to 7 p.m.
Launderland Circus (Saturday-Sunday)
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The Children’s Creativity Museum will host the touring Launderland Circus, which will present an all-ages show in which a magical laundromat stands up to a greedy boss. Guests will bear witness to aerialists, giant puppets, jugglers and other talents.
Easter Mountain Lake Park 5K (Sunday)
Dolphin South End Runners, The City’s oldest running club, will host 5K and kids races at the west end of the park, near the intersection of 11th Avenue and Lake Street. Adult runners will participate in the first race at 9 a.m., followed by a race for children ages 12 and under that will be a half-mile in length.
Bring Your Own Big Wheel (Sunday)
Residents will flock to Vermont Street in Potrero Hill to watch participants ride down the crooked road on their big-wheel bikes of choice. Children will ride from 2 to 3 p.m., followed by adults riding the course from 3 to 5 p.m. Participants are asked to wear helmets, gloves and pads for their knees and elbows.
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The annual Bring Your Own Big Wheel event takes place on Vermont Street in Potrero Hill.
As one of the most expensive tourist destinations in the U.S., according to a GoBankingRates study, San Francisco, California, turns “affordable” into a relative term. While you might be able to nab a roadside hotel for under $50 in the middle of nowhere, San Francisco hotels are considerably more expensive.
I’m from the Bay Area and often travel to San Francisco for work. I usually stay outside the touristy neighborhoods — I prefer the area near San Francisco International Airport (SFO) — because I drive my own car. The following suggestions are based on guest feedback from Reddit, Tripadvisor, Google Reviews, and Booking.com, supplemented by my knowledge of different parts of the city. These aren’t the absolute cheapest places in San Francisco, but accommodations I’d feel comfortable recommending to visiting friends or family on a budget.
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Although rates vary significantly based on demand, location, and a myriad of other factors, most relatively comfortable, affordable stays start from $150 per night for a private room, including taxes and fees. However, most hotels initially display rates online without taxes and fees. These hidden costs can easily bump up displayed room rates by $30 to $50, so make sure the final price includes everything, such as the “guest amenities fee” in some hotels. To keep the price somewhat low, you’ll likely need to sacrifice something, be that location, cleanliness, ambiance, amenities, space, or privacy. I’ve included estimated rates for the cheapest room at each accommodation (including fees and taxes), but you should take these numbers as rough guidance.
Chancellor Hotel on Union Square
Frequently mentioned among the top affordable hotels in San Francisco on Tripadvisor forums, Reddit, and area-specific Facebook groups, the Chancellor Hotel on Union Square makes guests feel at home in the heart of the city. Among the tallest buildings in San Francisco in its heyday, this 3-star stay dates back to 1914 and offers a taste of the past at an accessible price point.
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Featuring over 130 rooms, most of which fit two adults max, this family-run hotel earns 4.5 stars on Tripadvisor, in part due to small touches. “I loved the free homemade cookies, fresh apples, and high-end coffee in the cozy lobby,” enthused a guest on Google Reviews. “They truly went above and beyond and made me feel like an old friend.” The location is also a draw for visitors. Union Square sits one block over, and the Powell Street Cable Car passes directly in front of the hotel.
Those who didn’t enjoy their stay usually found issues with the small room sizes, lack of air conditioning, or staying in a loud room. For reference, the only time I’ve ever used air conditioning in San Francisco is during an unusually hot stretch in California’s “Indian Summer,” usually a few days in September or October. However, the price point is reason enough to sacrifice a few comforts. Expect room rates from $130 for a queen bed with a private bathroom, a bathtub with a bright yellow rubber duck (yes, you can take the duck home), and a mini-fridge.
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Handlery Union Square Hotel
To secure a hotel with a heated pool, sauna, and gym in Union Square, you usually have to pay through the nose, but the 3-star Handlery Union Square Hotel is an exception. Cocooned in a courtyard, the swimming pool offers sun loungers and a place to relax after dark. The small gym features just enough equipment to maintain your fitness routine—treadmills, ellipticals, and free weights —while the sauna is private and must be reserved in advance.
Built in 1908, the historic rooms (the most affordable option) feature Victorian architecture, as well as modern amenities like a mini-fridge, coffee maker, and flat-screen TV. A block from Union Square, the location is incredibly walkable and near Chinatown, shopping centers like Macy’s, and many restaurants. In the historic wing, guests report the problems you’d expect from an old building. For instance, some guests found the soundproofing insufficient, or stayed in rooms that felt dated rather than vintage.
However, for the price, most guests feel like they’re getting their money’s worth. “It was great, especially for the very reasonable price I paid. Very classy reception, and clean on the parking garage side too – felt very safe,” per a guest via Google Reviews. Rates hover between $150 and $250 for the most affordable rooms. However, the hotel offers discounts for guests attending events like a Giants’ game at Oracle Park or a concert at Civic Auditorium. There’s also a 20% discount for California residents.
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HI San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel
Showcasing views of Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge, HI San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf Hostel is a step above your average backpacker experience. While the hostel offers traditional dorms, ranging in size from four to 20 beds, guests can also book private rooms with views across the bay. “I got the private room and if you stood on the far side of it you could see part of the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s one of the best views you’ll get for this price in the entire city,” shared a traveler on Google Reviews.
Occupying a cypress-covered hill in Fort Mason Park, the location is one-of-a-kind. It’s one of the only places in the city where you can stay in an urban national park; although campers can pitch a tent at Angel Island State Park in San Francisco Bay. Here, visitors can stroll along paths or sunbathe in the grass before exploring the city on foot or with public transportation. Lombard Street, the city’s famous winding road, is only a 20-minute walk away, and you can reach Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 in 15 minutes. The hostel offers weekly free events, such as the Mission Walking Tour on Wednesdays or the Yoga at Grace Cathedral on Saturdays. Check the schedule here.
Dorm beds start from $36, while private rooms with shared bathrooms go for $110 and up. Guests use the common areas to work remotely or meet other travelers, while the hostel also offers laundry facilities and a kitchen.
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Golden Gate Hotel, San Francisco
Situated on the border of the Nob Hill and Union Square neighborhoods, the Golden Gate Hotel, San Francisco, maintains its old-world charm without falling into disrepair. It’s just around the corner from the California Street cable car and a 10-minute walk to the Cable Car Museum. A favorite among visitors on travel communities like San Francisco Travel Tips, this 4-story bed and breakfast was built in 1913, earning a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. Although the facade displays the Edwardian architecture typical of San Francisco, the interior reminds guests of compact flats in France or Italy.
With only 23 rooms, each one slightly different from the next, the hotel earns a 4.6-star rating on Tripadvisor. Afternoon tea and breakfast are complimentary, and guests appreciate the homey feel and resident cat, Skittles. “You could stay in the St. Francis for 3 times the price but you probably would NOT feel the sincere welcome of the decades-long established Golden Gate Hotel,” praised a guest on Tripadvisor. “This very clean, and gently cared for ‘nest’ in a wonderful location will soothe your frazzled senses when coming back from the tiring excitement of touristy jaunts.”
Small rooms with a shared bathroom start from around $110, and come with Wi-Fi, a TV, bathrobes, and toiletries. Rooms with a private bathroom (plus an antique claw-foot tub) offer slightly more space and start from around $150 per night.
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Marina Motel
Situated in the Marina District, just off Highway 101, the 3-star Marina Motel is a top choice among families visiting San Francisco. Many of the rooms come with kitchens and multiple bed configurations, which makes traveling with children easier. In addition, the room rate includes free parking, a rarity in San Francisco.
Dating back to 1939, the hotel originally provided overnight accommodation (with parking) for people driving over the brand new Golden Gate Bridge. Still run by the founder’s grandchildren, the motel offers rooms perched over small garages, nestled in a courtyard with bougainvillea vines and window boxes filled with flowers. Every room comes with a microwave, coffee maker, and mini-fridge, but the kitchen accommodations also have a gas oven and stove top, a freezer, and kitchenware. “My fiance and I took our teenage daughter and her friend to San Francisco as a spring break getaway. This hotel gave the girls their own room and their own beds, while my fiancé and I got a nice quiet space to ourselves! The price was unbeatable for having 2 rooms,” praised a visitor on Google Reviews, where the motel earns 4.4 stars.
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From the motel, guests can easily reach San Francisco’s most iconic sites, but having a car is useful. However, the Palace of Fine Arts is a 10-minute walk away, and the motel serves as a starting point for exploring the nature trails at the Presidio. Rooms start around $140 per night with discounts for longer stays.
Methodology
Hryshchyshen Serhii/Shutterstock
To find the best affordable stays in San Francisco, I used my experience visiting as a Bay Area local and living in the city short-term as a jumping-off point. I scoured Facebook groups like San Francisco Travel Tips, and Reddit threads like r/AskSF and r/TravelHacks for affordable hotels I hadn’t heard of or potential hidden gems.
Next, I dug through thousands of guest reviews on Tripadvisor, Google Reviews, and Booking.com, searching for hotels with convenient locations, clean rooms, helpful staff, amenities, and, of course, low prices. Then, I double-checked the prices using the hotel’s official website. I only included hotels where guests felt safe, and prioritized walkable locations. Finally, all the hotels have at least a 4.0 rating on Google Reviews or Tripadvisor. When booking your stay, consider using travel guru Rick Steves’ expert tip to find the most affordable hotels online.
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“Imagine this, right? There’s a fork in the road where down one road is like — how would I explain this,” Ranjit Brar muses for a moment. “Dead trees. You see rocks, or a road that’s potholes. It’s just horrible.”
The other road in the scenario looks beautiful, Brar says, but seemed “so far-fetched” that for years, he didn’t choose it.
Instead, he found himself selling drugs, stealing cars, committing identity theft, anything — just to buy more heroin or pay for a place to sleep at night. He’d catch charges, post bail, skip town to the next county.
“It’s easier to stay in something that feels more secure, even though it’s a miserable life,” Brar says. Today, he sits at a conference table, with his work ID and key fob hanging off a lanyard around his neck, his goatee neatly trimmed. A tattoo on his throat peeps over the top of his T-shirt.
One fork in the road came 12 years ago, when Brar found himself 32 years old and addicted to painkillers after a shooting at his home in Florida left him severely injured. He told a Daytona Beach news outlet in an interview at the time about his pain and the various medications he was taking to ease it.
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Eventually, his doctors cut him off the pills, and he found his way to heroin. Before he knew it, his family was in shambles.
Feeling “empty inside,” Brar left behind his children and relationship and hit the road back to the Bay Area. “San Francisco, it’s the best place if you want to change your life around,” Brar says. “And it’s the worst place if you want to destroy your life.”
Brar had spent his early years here, and his adoptive father still lived in the area.
“I came back to California … to reconcile [with] my father, try to see if I could salvage the relationship,” Brar says. “Any connection to family at this point, that’s what I wanted.”
When that family connection fell through, Brar continued to find comfort in drugs. As he bounced around the Bay Area, committing petty crime, all roads seemed to lead back to San Francisco, his home base and the city where he was born.
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“I’d come here, Tenderloins. I knew how to survive in the streets, how to sell drugs, the homies are here,” Brar says. “For about ten years, I struggled with trying to get clean. And I couldn’t do it on myself.”
Brar’s “rock-bottom,” he says, was the day he was arrested and realized he had no one to reach out to.
The loneliness was jarring. It reminded him of trying to connect with his father, or being shipped off to boarding school in India as a child — an experience he has now learned to see differently.
“Even though it was a lonely time in my life, everything is something to learn from,” he says. He learned Hindi and Punjabi, and got to travel and see the Himalayas with his grandmother.
In a similar way, Brar today finds a different kind of solace in the Tenderloin.
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He attended rehab in custody and after he was released, and began volunteering with St. Anthony’s. Brar now works there as a full time volunteer coordinator. He has an apartment nearby and another he shares with his girlfriend.
As we walk out the door, we run into one of his best friends, with whom he does everything from attending Narcotics Anonymous meetings to going on vacation together. He clarifies that this person is “not a homie, a friend.”
Brar connects with other people in the throes of addiction and lets them call him if they need support.
And beyond the neighborhood, his children are grown up and successful, one surfing in Australia, another working as an electrician in Florida, and a third attending college in New York.
Brar, though, still finds his comfort in San Francisco. Reflecting, he says that rehabilitating in the same place where he used drugs has only made his recovery stronger. “It keeps me grounded.”