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Birria El Rey Opening First Brick & Mortar Location in Golden Hill | San Diego Magazine

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Birria El Rey Opening First Brick & Mortar Location in Golden Hill | San Diego Magazine


Golden Hill’s Birria El Rey is the best kind of taco truck. There are only a few tables on a sidewalk next to a parking lot and laundromat, but what they lack in seating, they more than make up for with outrageously decadent birria tacos, chilaquiles, fries, and even ramen. Birria is what chef and owner Cristian Marin Vazquez specializes in and what he says the people want. 

Luckily, we’ll get plenty more once he moves a block away to the former Krakatoa spot at 1128 25th Street in Golden Hill this summer.

“I think in three months, it should be ready,” he says during our conversation this month, adding they’re just waiting for final permits and the ABC license. He pauses for a moment and reflects on what that means. “I started selling birria only on Sundays with only a small pot of birria. In three years, I have my restaurant almost ready.”

Courtesy of Birria El Rey

Vazquez formally trained at Culinary Art School in Tijuana before working around San Diego at places like Marriott Marquis San Diego Marina. Once the pandemic hit, however, he found himself unemployed and ready to try something new. He decided to launch a birria pop-up in Golden Hill on Sundays despite hospitality coming to a screeching halt early in 2020.

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“I wasn’t getting any income, so I said, ‘This is my time to try to do something,’” he says. He calls that period of uncertainty scary, but a chance to do what he always wanted to do—open his own restaurant and stop working for someone else. “If I hadn’t lost my job, I wouldn’t have done anything,” he says. But his bet paid off—fast.

“People started to like the birria, so I decided to do it on Saturday,” explains Vazquez. “Then people seemed to like it a lot. So I decided to open from Tuesday to Sunday.” He’s been selling his food as fast as he could make it ever since and had been looking for a place to expand his burgeoning birria empire. When Krakatoa ceased operations in 2022, he knew it was the right spot to develop while maintaining close ties with the Golden Hill community. 

The new spot will have the same favorites, plus a few more. Vasquez says he will add menudo and more proteins to the menu, like beef and chicken, as well as beer and lots more seating. “I’m gonna have some more space to create more things with birria,” he promises. Once he can open, daily hours will run from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. (The original location at 1015 25th Street is still open.)

But Vasquez is looking ahead even further. “I want to go further north to open up more birria places,” he says. But in the future, I want to open a breakfast restaurant. That’s my dream after I open a couple more restaurants with birria.” 

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Breakfast? I wonder. Why?

“I love breakfast,” he says with a laugh. If you eat a good breakfast in the morning, the rest of the day will be good.”

Golden Coast Mead a honey wine beverage company from San Diego that will feature their drinks at Cardiff Farmers Market in 2024
Courtesy of Golden Coast Mead

San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Golden Coast Mead Joins Cardiff Farmers Market

It wasn’t until 2016 that California beverage alcohol makers with Type 84 permits were allowed to “offer instructional tasting events to consumers” at farmers’ markets under Assembly Bill 774. Golden Coast Mead immediately seized the opportunity, pouring at markets in Otay Ranch, North Park, Vista, Poway, and Hillcrest. Now, they’ve added Cardiff Farmers Market to their rotation every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the MiraCosta San Elijo Campus at 3333 Manchester Avenue.

“We’ll be able to pour customers three one-ounce educational tasters, and sell bottles to-go of our organic honey-based, regenerative, Southern California-style, refreshing, sometimes tart, enlivening, all-natural, no preservatives or artificial ingredient added meads,” says Golden Coast founder Frank Golbeck. Mead is much more complex than its “just honey wine” reputation, he adds. “The bees have to visit over two million flowers to make one pound of honey, [and] our bottles have a half pound of honey in each one. That means there are over one million flower visits in each bottle. If there are one hundred sips in a bottle, that’s 10,000 flower visits in one sip,” he explains. “Pretty inspiring, beautiful stuff if you ask me.”

Schmackary's Cookies, a bakery franchise opening its first location in San Diego, on a tray
Courtesy of Schmackary’s Cookies

Beth’s Bites

Goodbye Starbucks, hello Amoré Caffe! The corner of Robinson and Fifth Avenue in Hillcrest’s busy thoroughfare is keeping coffee on the menu but kicking corporate chains to the curb. Husband-and-wife-owned Amoré is slated to open sometime in late summer or fall 2024.

(Cue Cookie Monster voice) COOKIES ARE COMING! Schmackary’s, the New York City-based cookie franchise with ties to Broadway, will open its first San Diego location sometime this year. We don’t know much, but we know there will be cookies.

On Sunday, April 28, the first Cocktail Championship Block Party kicks off at 1 p.m. with 21 bars in the mix, including Rustic Root, Union Kitchen & Tap, The Deck at Moonshine Flats, Lumi, and more. Plan to rideshare and drink plenty of water—tickets include 21 mini cocktails (Egad!)

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Have breaking news, exciting scoops, or great stories about new San Diego restaurants or the city’s food scene? Send your pitches to [email protected].





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7 of San Diego's Sexiest & Best Bathrooms | San Diego Magazine

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7 of San Diego's Sexiest & Best Bathrooms | San Diego Magazine


By Amelia Rodriguez

Amelia Rodriguez is San Diego Magazine’s Associate Editor. The 2023 winner of the San Diego Press Club’s Rising Star Award, she’s covered music, food, arts & culture, fashion, and design for Rolling Stone, Palm Springs Life, and other national and regional publications. After work, you can find her hunting down San Diego’s best pastries and maintaining her three-year Duolingo streak.



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2024 San Diego County Law Enforcement Memorial

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2024 San Diego County Law Enforcement Memorial


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The 38th Annual Law Enforcement Memorial Ceremony was held this week at the Regional Law Enforcement Memorial in the Waterfront Park. 

Every year, the San Diego County Law Enforcement Memorial Ceremony pays respect to fallen deputies, officers and agents who gave their life in the line of duty in San Diego County. 

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The San Diego County Sheriff’s Department and law enforcement agencies from across the region honored the sacrifice made by these men and women with a 21-gun salute. 




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PERSPECTIVE: Browning Used Brown Voice to Mock Vargas

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PERSPECTIVE: Browning Used Brown Voice to Mock Vargas


By Arturo Castañares
Publisher

A rowdy rally organized by labor leaders outside of the San Diego County Administration Building on Tuesday morning meant to garner support for the appointment of their preferred candidate to become the County’s new Chief Administrative Officer turned into a harsh attack on Board Chairwoman Nora Vargas using Spanish slang words that seemed more like crass cultural (mis)appropriation and not-too-subtle racism.

Among the rally speakers was Brigette Browning, the head of the San Diego-Imperial Counties Labor Council, a group of 135 local unions representing a combined 200,000 workers.

Browning, who is a White, non-Hispanic woman, began her comments with a greeting in Spanish to the group that included many Hispanic workers, but then she used two slang comments that were used to demean Vargas, the first Hispanic to ever serve on the County Board of Supervisors. 

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“Buenos dias, so, I want to talk about our Chair, the Chingona,” Browning said mockingly to open her remarks in front of a large group of union workers. 

Vargas has a wooden plaque that hangs over her County office door that defines “Chingona” as a woman who is “intelligent, fearless, and can get things done.”

The plaque also includes “Boss” or “Badass” in the definition.

Chingona

Ironically, the plaque was a gift from one of Vargas’ friends from their membership in HOPE; Hispanas Organized for Political Equality, a nonprofit nonpartisan group dedicated to ensuring political and economic parity for Latinas.

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Surely they meant that as a term of endearment and empowerment.

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But Browning used the slang term in a derogatory and mocking way toward Vargas.

“[Vargas] says she’s here for workers, but she’s making backroom deals with [Supervisors] Desmond and Anderson, and that doesn’t sound like someone who’s supporting workers to me,” Browning added in an increasingly casual tone with a hint of an accent which isn’t part of her usual speech style —a form of “brown voice” where non-Spanish speakers mimic or use mock accents, à la Taco Bell’s commercials with the infamous talking Chihuahua with it’s cringy “Yo quiero Taco Bell!

Browning then criticized Vargas for announcing that San Jose labor leader Cindy Chavez would not be interviewed for the CAO position after La Prensa San Diego discovered and reported that she was the favored —but arguably unqualified— candidate last year as Nathan Fletcher was resigning from the Board amid a sexual assault and retaliation lawsuit.

Chavez, who is finishing her second term on the Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors, previously served two terms on the San Jose City Council and lost her bid for San Jose Mayor in 2022 but has never held an administrative position of the scope of managing the County’s 20,000 employees and its $8 billion annual budget.

Previously, Chavez served as the leader of the Bay Area’s Labor Council, a group representing 90 unions and over 100,000 union members in Santa Clara and San Benito counties, and is a close ally of both former Assemblywoman and now statewide labor leader Lorena Gonzalez and her husband, former County Supervisor Nathan Fletcher.

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“You know, Cindy Chavez had my job, she was the head of the Labor Council, and she is a fierce woman who would do anything for workers,” Browning added, giving the impression Chavez preceded her here in San Diego when in fact she had a similar position in the Bay Area.

Browning went on to call the Board’s decision to remove Chavez from consideration for an interview for the position as “some bullshit.”

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Then Browning said she wanted to start a chant among the group.

“No mames, Nora!” Browning started chanting to the group. “No mames, Nora,” she repeated with the group repeating it, too.

“You’re not a Chingona for us, sister,” Browning said to close her remarks.

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For non-Spanish speakers, “mames” is a conjugation of the Spanish verb “mamar” which literally means to suckle or breastfeed.

The term “no mames” is very crass slang used contextually in both positive and negative ways and roughly translates to “you have to be kidding me”, “no way”, “stop messing with me”, or even “screw you” and, in the worst context, can refer to performing oral sex, depending on the setting. 

The way Browning used the term to attack Vargas was not only vulgar and unprofessional, but it was weaponized to demean Vargas, a native Spanish speaker who grew up both in San Diego and Tijuana.

Browning, who graduated from the private Catholic University of San Diego High School (now Cathedral High School near Del Mar) and UC San Diego in La Jolla, lives in a 114-year-old historic Victorian home in Chula Vista originally built by wealthy banker and civic leader Greg Rogers in 1910. Rogers served on the City’s first City Council after Chula Vista was incorporated in 1911.

And Browning’s husband, Daniel Rottenstreich, is one of the busiest—if not the most connected— political consultants in the region, running the campaigns of County District Attorney Summer Stephan, SD City Attorney Mara Elliott, and even an independent expenditure campaign for Todd Gloria’s 2020 election, to name a few.

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Browning has come under fire —mostly by La Prensa San Diego— for having had a conflict of interest when she testified before the San Diego City Council in support of the Midway Rising development team that was selected by Mayor Gloria to rebuild the Sports Arena site into a $2 billion mixed-use project.

The Midway Rising team had already paid Rottenstreich more than $200,000 before Browning used her labor union clout to push for selecting the developer who had enriched her and her husband without properly disclosing their mutual conflicts.

By the way —and probably not coincidentally— Rottenstreich was also the consultant who ran the campaign which Midway Rising owner Brad Termini gave $100,000 to for Gloria’s 2020 election before being selected for the multi-billion dollar project.

This is a well-connected, wealthy White woman who called a Latina a “Chingona” before taunting her with a chorus of “No mames!”

So is this an isolated case of Browning attacking a rising Latina leader?

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Nope. In fact, she went after two Latinas in the same week.

Browning has been making calls to City Councilmembers in National City to get three votes to dump Port Commission Sandy Naranjo who has been battling with the Port since last fall when her colleagues concocted reasons to censure Naranjo just before she was to become Chair of the Port’s Board.

Naranjo has defended her actions as simply asking tough questions about the Port’s in-house lawyer who maintains a law practice and business interests outside of his official Port duties.

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Browning and Naranjo, who have known each other for years, got sideways three years ago after Naranjo met with Browning to tell her she would be creating a consulting firm to help teach people how to organize community support after having worked as a union organizer herself for years. 

Naranjo claims that Browning turned against her and has been behind a move to oust the Commissioner before her term is up in December.

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We know Browning contacted National City Mayor Ron Morrison to seek his support for ousting Naranjo, but if three or more members of the City Council agreed through Browning to take an action, that could be a violation of the state’s Brown Act which bars a majority of a public body from agreeing beforehand to take an official action at a future public meeting.

The agenda for next Tuesday’s City Council meeting in National City now includes an action item to review Naranjo’s term on the Port. Browning seems to have succeeded in getting three votes to do as she commands.

That’s two Latina leaders who both grew up in the South Bay under attack by the same White labor leader at the same time. Coincidence?

Browning has become the most powerful union leader in San Diego. She holds the job that was previously held by Lorena Gonzalez, who went on to serve in the State Assembly before becoming the leader of the California Labor Federation in 2021.

Her use of Spanish slang to demean and attack Nora Vargas is wrong, offensive, and uncouth.

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Even if the attack had come from a Latina it would have seemed inappropriate in the context of the public discourse about serious public business. It would have looked petty and boorish.

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But coming from an entitled professional White woman who is non-native Spanish speaker, the words she used were offensive and demeaning when leveled against a Latina.

If Browning had invoked language traditionally used by the Black community to attack a Black elected official she would have been called out immediately.

There should not be a lower standard when dealing with Latinos. We are not Piñatas to take swings at for entertainment. 

This was wrong. It should never have happened. Period.

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As the oldest Hispanic news outlet in San Diego, we believe Brigette Browning owes Nora Vargas —and the entire Latino community— a sincere apology and we should all remember to disagree, not only without being disagreeable, but without resorting to base personal and cultural attacks on our community. 

Watch video from the rally starting at 14:40 and you decide:



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