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The paradise islands that don't want to be Hawaii

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The paradise islands that don't want to be Hawaii


Getty Images Blue sky over house on Rarotonga in the Cook Islands (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

The Cook Islands is proving that sustainable tourism isn’t just possible – it’s essential. Here’s how this South Pacific nation is preserving their paradise for generations for come.

Landing on Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands chain felt like stepping back in time. Gazing out of the taxi from Rarotonga airport to our resort, we were immediately struck by the absence of high-rise hotels, fast-food restaurants and corporate chains. There were no traffic lights, only coconut palms lining the road, the scent of salt and frangipani drifting through the air and the jungle meeting the ocean in a seamless panorama. It felt like Hawaii in the 1960s: uncrowded, laid-back and refreshingly authentic.

Our taxi driver pointed to a low-slung resort along the shoreline. “No building can be higher than a coconut tree,” she said. This isn’t just a local tradition but a law set in 1965 by the Cook Islands’ first premier, Albert Henry, to prevent overdevelopment. She explained that only Cook Islanders can own land, ensuring that large corporations don’t dominate the landscape. We looked out onto hotels blending naturally into their surroundings and white-sand beaches ringed with long green parks, all free from litter and crowds.

We soon learned that this preservation of paradise is deeply intentional. Cook Islanders have made a conscious effort to ensure that Rarotonga never follows the path of overdevelopment seen in places like Honolulu. Instead, locals have committed to conservation, low-impact tourism and sustainable practices that benefit both locals and visitors. “People come here because it is a paradise uncluttered by overdevelopment,” explained Jeremy Goodwin, regenerative tourism manager for the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation (CITC). “Our sacred duty as custodians of the land is to look after our paradise.”

Getty Images The Cook Islands' population of 21,000 is spread over 15 islands (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

The Cook Islands’ population of 21,000 is spread over 15 islands (Credit: Getty Images)

The Cook Islands, an archipelago of 15 islands between New Zealand and Hawaii, has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. With a total population of 21,000, the islands are divided into two groups: the Southern Cook Islands, which includes the more accessible Rarotonga and Aitutaki, and the remote Northern Cook Islands, made up of low-lying coral atolls. Cook Islanders have their own Māori language, with different dialects across the islands. And while tourism is a key industry, the islanders have ensured that sustainability remains at the nation’s core.

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“For hundreds of years, the protection of the Cook Islands relied on the traditional Ra’ui System where access to a particular resource or area is forbidden for a given period,” explained Karla Eggelton, CEO of CITC. “The system aims to conserve food resources and protect ecological conditions in lagoons, reefs and other marine resources.”

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Green Getaways is a BBC Travel series that helps travellers experience a greener, cleaner approach to getting out and seeing the world.

This philosophy persists today – and extends beyond the sea. On the northern island of Pukapuka, for example, locals have practiced sustainable living for centuries, packing up their belongings and sailing by boat to another atoll within the lagoon for seasonal periods to prevent resource depletion. They fish and farm only what they need, maintaining a delicate balance with nature.

On arrival at The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Lagoonarium, staff welcomed us with a warm “Kia Orana”, a greeting that translates to “may you live long”. It’s a unique gesture of friendship from islanders renowned for their hospitality and warmth. The resort overlooks the Aroa Lagoonarium, a snorkelling haven and a sanctuary for butterflyfish, parrotfish and angelfish. Part natural lagoon and part enclosed habitat, it is designed to support marine conservation, serving both as a coral nursery and a protected area for marine life to flourish.

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Pamela and Gary Baker The popular Muri Night Market offers a Rent-a-Plate project to reduce disposable plastic (Credit: Pamela and Gary Baker)Pamela and Gary Baker

The popular Muri Night Market offers a Rent-a-Plate project to reduce disposable plastic (Credit: Pamela and Gary Baker)

As the days passed, we saw how sustainability is woven into everyday life across the islands. At the Muri Night Market, a popular outdoor dinner option, we watched vendors prepare island dishes like ika mata (raw fish marinated in lime and coconut milk) and rukau rukau (taro leaves in coconut cream), all using local ingredients. We were struck by the market’s Rent-a-Plate project, where visitors can borrow reusable plates and cutlery instead of using disposable plastic. Cook Islanders also promote clean water initiatives. We purchased reusable bottles from the visitor’s centre and refilled them at free UV-treated water stations around the island, a project led by the Te Ipukarea Society to minimise plastic waste.

How to play your part

1. Support the Cook Islands economy by buying local crafts, clothing and food. Attend a cultural tour or show and embrace the traditions, customs and lifestyle.

2. Take shorter showers to save the islands’ limited water supply and minimise electricity use.

3. Volunteer with Muri Environment Care Group. Every Wednesday and Thursday, visitors can join efforts to protect Muri Lagoon by participating in soil restoration projects and planting native trees near streams to control sediment flow into the lagoon.

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4. Choose eco-friendly experiences and products, use reef-safe sunscreen and avoid single-use plastics.

Beyond sustainable dining, Cook Islanders have taken marine conservation to a global scale. In 2017, the country established the Marae Moana Marine Park, making the 15 islands the world’s largest multi-use marine protected area, covering 1.9 million square kilometres. The legislation also bans large-scale commercial fishing and seabed mining within 50 nautical miles of each island.

“Marae Moana is the idea of shared space, a new concept of creating a sanctuary and the conservation effort that allows for shared, sustainable activity,” said Eggelton.

Also offering opportunities for sustainable tourism is Aitutaki, a bucolic island neighbouring Rarotonga that’s known for its snow-white sand beaches, volcanic rock, coconut palms and crystal-clear lagoons. Here the Pacific Resort Aitutaki has launched a coral restoration project where guests can take part by affixing coral fragments to underwater mesh tables, helping regenerate the reef.

“The project is an example of Mana Tiaki or island conservation,” explains Goodwin. “Mana Tiaki means guardianship with a sacred purpose.” He explained that culturally, for most Polynesians, the ocean is sacrosanct. “The beaches bring tourists to this holiday destination, but they also connect Cook Islanders to the ocean.”

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Getty Images Cook Island locals are committed to conservation, low-impact tourism and sustainable practices (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

Cook Island locals are committed to conservation, low-impact tourism and sustainable practices (Credit: Getty Images)

As the days passed, we explored the endless powdery white-sand beaches that ring Rarotonga, from Aroa Beach where fiery, colourful sunsets painted the sky with hues of vivid orange and crimson to serene and scenic Titikaveka Beach. They were all pristine and uncrowded, lined by palm trees, parkways and picnic tables. Most were unobstructed, with no commercial buildings to obstruct the view.

At Muri Beach, we opted for a sea turtle snorkelling tour. Our guide, Eric, explained the importance of turtles to the Cook Islands economically, environmentally and culturally. Daily tour operators earn an income by taking paying passengers to see these graceful, curious creatures. Plus, sea turtles are a key indicator of coastal ecosystem health, so monitoring and preservation are vital. Eric told us about a rescuer who found a turtle caught in a fishing net. Once freed, the Te Ara O Te Onu (Cook Island Sea Turtle Society) rehabilitated the turtle, as they have done dozens of times in the past. In addition to the society’s efforts, visitors are encouraged to help track turtle movement through the Citizen Science Project by taking photos and sending them into the programme.

By the time our trip had come to an end, we better understood how Cook Islanders have created a blueprint for preserving paradise by blending ancient conservation methods with modern environmental initiatives. “It’s about leaving both the people and the place better off than you found it,” said Eggelton.

Goodwin echoed the sentiment: This is our little paradise; if we all look after it, she will look after us.”





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No. 3 Rainbow Warriors continue winning ways against No. 6 BYU | Honolulu Star-Advertiser

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No. 3 Rainbow Warriors continue winning ways against No. 6 BYU | Honolulu Star-Advertiser


The third-ranked Hawaii men’s volleyball team had no problem recording its 11th sweep of the season, handling No. 6 BYU 25-18, 25-21, 25-16 tonight at Bankoh Arena at Stan Sheriff Center.

A crowd of 6,493 watched the Rainbow Warriors (14-1) roll right through the Cougars (13-4) for their 11th straight win.

Louis Sakanoko put down a match-high 15 kills and Adrien Roure added 11 kills in 18 attempts. Roure has hit .500 or better in three of his past four matches.

Junior Tread Rosenthal had a match-high 32 assists and guided Hawaii to a .446 hitting percentage.

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UH hit .500 in the first set, marking the third time in two matches against BYU it hit .500 or better in a set.

Hawaii has won seven of the past eight meetings against the Cougars (13-4), whose only two losses prior to playing UH were in five sets.

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Hawaii has lost six sets all season, with five of those sets going to deuce.

UH returns to the home court next week for matches Wednesday and Friday against No. 7 Pepperdine.




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Travelers Sue: Promises Were Broken. They Want Hawaiian Airlines Back.

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Travelers Sue: Promises Were Broken. They Want Hawaiian Airlines Back.


Hawaiian Airlines’ passengers are back in federal court trying to stop something most people assumed was already finished. They are no longer arguing about whether they are allowed to sue. They are now asking a judge to intervene and preserve Hawaiian as a standalone airline before integration advances to a point this spring where it cannot realistically be reversed.

That approach is far more aggressive than what we covered in Can Travelers Really Undo Alaska’s Hawaiian Airlines Takeover?. The earlier round focused on whether passengers had standing and could amend their complaint. This court round focuses on whether harm is already occurring and whether the court should act immediately rather than later. The shift is moving from procedural survival to emergency relief, which makes this filing different for Hawaii travelers.

The post-merger record is now the focus.

When the $1.9 billion acquisition closed in September 2024, the narrative was straightforward. Hawaiian would gain financial stability. Alaska would impose what it described early as “discipline” across routes and costs. Travelers were told they would benefit from broader connectivity, stronger loyalty alignment, and long-term fleet investments that Hawaiian could no longer fund independently.

Eighteen months later, the plaintiffs argue that the outcome has not matched the pitch. They cite reduced nonstop options on some Hawaii mainland routes, redeye-heavy return schedules that many readers openly dislike, and loyalty program changes that longtime Hawaiian flyers say diminished redemption value. They frame these not as routine airline integration but as signs that competitive pressure has weakened in our island state, where airlift determines price and critical access for both visitors and residents.

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What is different about this filing compared with earlier debates is that it relies on developments that have already occurred rather than on predictions about what might happen later.

The HA call sign has already been retired. Boston to Honolulu was cut before competitors signaled renewed service. Austin’s nonstop service ended. Multiple mainland departures shifted into overnight red-eyes. And next, the single reservation system transition is targeted for April 2026, a process already well underway.

Atmos replaced both Hawaiian Miles and Alaska’s legacy loyalty programs, and readers immediately reported higher award pricing, fewer cheap seats, no mileage upgrades, and confusion around status alignment and family accounts. Each of those events can be described as aspects of integration mechanics, but together they form the factual record that the plaintiffs are now asking a judge to examine in Yoshimoto v. Alaska Airlines.

The 40% capacity argument.

One of the more interesting claims tied to the court filing is that Alaska now controls more than 40% of Hawaii mainland U.S. capacity. That figure strikes at the core of the entire issue. That percentage does not automatically mean monopoly under antitrust law, but it does raise questions about concentration in a state that depends exclusively on air access for its only industry and its residents.

Hawaii is not a region where travelers have options. Every visitor, every neighbor island resident, and every business traveler depends on our limited air transportation. The plaintiffs contend that consolidation at that scale reduces competitive pressure and gives the dominant carrier far more leverage over pricing and scheduling decisions. Alaska says that competition remains robust from Delta, United, Southwest, and others, and that share shifts seasonally and by route.

Competitors reacted quickly.

While Alaska integrated Hawaiian’s network under its publicly stated discipline strategy, Delta announced its largest Hawaii winter schedule ever, beginning in December 2026. Delta’s Boston to Honolulu is slated to return, Minneapolis to Maui launches, and Detroit and JFK to Honolulu move to daily service. Atlanta also gains additional frequency. Widebodies are appearing where narrowbodies once operated, signaling Delta’s push into higher capacity and premium cabin layouts.

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Those moves complicate the monopoly narrative. If Delta is expanding aggressively, one argument is that competition remains active and responsive. At the same time, Delta filling routes Alaska trimmed may reinforce the idea that structural changes created openings competitors believe are profitable, and that markets respond when gaps appear.

What changed since October.

In October, we examined whether the case would survive dismissal and whether passengers could refile. That moment felt more procedural than what’s afoot now. It did not alter flights, fares, or loyalty programs.

This filing is different because it is tied to post-merger developments and seeks emergency relief. The plaintiffs are asking the court to prevent further integration while the merits are evaluated, arguing that each added step toward full consolidation this spring makes reversal less feasible as systems merge, crew scheduling aligns, fleet plans shift, and branding converges.

Airline mergers are designed to become embedded quickly, and once those pieces are fully intertwined, unwinding them becomes exponentially more difficult, which is why the plaintiffs are pressing forward now rather than waiting any longer.

The DOT conditions and the defense.

When the purchase of Hawaiian closed, the Department of Transportation imposed conditions that run for six years. Those conditions addressed maintaining capacity on overlapping routes, preserving certain interline agreements, protecting aspects of loyalty commitments, and safeguarding interisland service levels.

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Alaska will point to those commitments as evidence that consumer protections were built into the core approval. The plaintiffs, however, are essentially claiming that those conditions are either insufficient or that subsequent real-world changes undermine the spirit of what travelers were told would remain. That tension between formal commitments and actual experience is at the core of this dispute.

Hawaiian had not produced consistent profits for years.

That is the actual financial situation, without sentiment. Alaska did not spend $1.9 billion to preserve Hawaii nostalgia. It purchased aircraft, an international and trans-Pacific network reach, and a platform it thinks can return to profitability under tighter cost control.

What this means for travelers today.

Nothing about your Hawaiian Airlines ticket changes because of this filing. Flights remain scheduled. Atmos remains the reward program. Integration continues unless a judge intervenes.

However, Alaska now faces a renewed court challenge that points to concrete post-merger developments rather than speculative harm. That scrutiny alone can bring things to light and influence how aggressively future route decisions and loyalty adjustments occur.

Hawaiian Airlines’ travelers have been vocal since the start about pricing, redeyes, lost nonstops, and loyalty devaluation. Others have said very clearly that without Alaska, Hawaiian might not exist in any form at all. Both perspectives exist as background while a federal judge evaluates whether the integration should be impacted.

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You tell us: Eighteen months after Alaska took over Hawaiian, are your Hawaii flights better or worse than before, and what changed first for you: price, schedule, routes, interisland flights, or loyalty programs?

Lead Photo Credit: © Beat of Hawaii at SALT At Our Kaka’ako in Honolulu.

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Lawsuit claims Hawaiian-Alaska Airlines merger creates monopoly on Hawaii flights

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Lawsuit claims Hawaiian-Alaska Airlines merger creates monopoly on Hawaii flights


HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – An effort to break up the Hawaiian and Alaska Airlines merger is heading back to court.

Passengers have filed an appeal seeking a restraining order that would preserve Hawaiian as a standalone airline.

The federal government approved the deal in 2024 as long as Alaska maintained certain routes and improved customer service.

However, plaintiffs say the merger is monopolizing the market, and cite a drop in flight options and a rise in prices.

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According to court documents filed this week, Alaska now operates more than 40% of Hawaii’s continental U.S. routes.

Hawaii News Now has reached out to Alaska Airlines and is awaiting a response.

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