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Six cool California hotels to book now

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Six cool California hotels to book now


Safe harbour on the Mendocino Coast

Wharf Rock seen from the Seaview Room at Harbor House © Courtesy of Harbor House

Mendocino, about three hours’ drive north of San Francisco, is a small coastal enclave set in outsized nature, a place where world-beating culinary experiences and zero connectivity often fluidly co-exist. Harbor House is the win up here, despite the presence of hotels that are ostensibly more exclusive (The Heritage House) or “cool” (Timber Cove Resort). Its popularity is down to the buildings’ charm – they were lovingly and meticulously restored by owners Edmund Jin and Eva Lu when they bought it – and the excellence of its culinary offering.

The Harbor House dining room
The Harbor House dining room © Matt Morris
Vine peach melon and amazake at Harbor House
Vine peach melon and amazake at Harbor House © Matt Morris

The Inn, which reopened in 2018, is historic, with six rooms in the main house and others in cabins, all cosy and antique-filled, and all unique; one is clad in redwood boiserie, another has a library. The more recent Madrone cottage is modern-architecture heaven. The restaurant has become a northern California beacon; executive chef Matthew Kammerer is a multiple James Beard Award finalist whose tasting menus, which do remarkable things with hyper-local seafood, produce and seaweed, have earned him two Michelin stars. It’s one of those hotels that’s almost legendary on America’s West Coast and inexplicably all but unknown overseas. theharborhouseinn.com, from $550


Carmel’s new hotel belles

It’s always been one of the state’s most beloved beach towns. Monégasque property tycoon Patrice Pastor, who like legions before him has fallen hard for Carmel’s charms, seems to be the person behind quite a few of its new developments; among the flurry of residential and commercial acquisitions his holding company, Esperanza Carmel, has made is the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Mrs Clinton Walker House. The Carmel Beach Hotel, operated by Mirabel, the hotel-restaurant company owned by local David Fink, has taken over Colonial Terrace at the corner of 13th and San Antonio (a serendipitous location: San Antonio is just a block up from Carmel Beach, and 13th Street is the border below which you’re allowed to take a picnic and a bottle down onto the sand).

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Carmel Beach, adjacent to Carmel Beach Hotel
Carmel Beach, adjacent to Carmel Beach Hotel © Bonjwing Lee
26 rooms are spread across Carmel Beach Hotel’s seven buildings
26 rooms are spread across Carmel Beach Hotel’s seven buildings © Bonjwing Lee
A room at Carmel Beach Hotel
A room at Carmel Beach Hotel © Bonjwing Lee

Despite having only 26 rooms spread across its seven one- and two-storey buildings, it’s is a full resort proposition: the spa with its three treatment rooms offers facials, scrubs and seaweed wraps, the gym and fitness studio are similarly full-service. In the restaurant is Justin Cogley, who won Best New Chef laurels from Food & Wine, American’s culinary bible, for his delicious work at Aubergine, the restaurant in Fink’s other hotel, L’Auberge Carmel. If sunrise is when you do the beach, Cogley will have you covered; the Carmel Beach Hotel’s breakfast baskets, loaded with local sweet and savoury treats, are made for easy portability.

The terrace at La Playa
The terrace at La Playa © Chris Mottalini
A Premier Ocean View King room at La Playa
A Premier Ocean View King room at La Playa © Chris Mottalini

La Playa is one of Carmel’s larger hotels, as well as one of its oldest, in operation since 1905. I’ve often steered friends and visitors to its gloriously un-chic bar for the Taylor-and-Burton patina it gives. But the 75 rooms were always a bit too tired to warrant recommendation. Thankfully that’s changed; all of them were just renovated to the tune of $15mn, with an eye to creating a sense of upgrade without straying too far from the hotel’s Spanish-colonial vernacular, or its oceanside heritage. The décor schemes thus skew one way or the other: lush Persian rugs, gleaming mahogany four-posters, corner sofas upholstered in deep green velvet; or else rattan and jaunty blue-and-white beach stripes. Never opulent, but eminently comfortable. The views from the top-floor rooms, over the courtyard to the beach and Point Lobos beyond, merit the higher rates if you can foot them. carmelbeachhotel.com, from $250. laplayahotel.com, from $450


Rustic chic with a maximalist finish in Palm Desert

The Barn Kitchen and central bar at Sparrows Lodge
The Barn Kitchen and central bar at Sparrows Lodge © Johnny Valiant

In mid-April, Coachella will once again kick off deep in the Colorado Desert, with Blur, Grimes, Lana del Rey and Tyler the Creator among the big names. Not that you need a festival to partake of this very beautiful landscape; it’s a good year-rounder (barring perhaps August and September) with many great places to stay, boasting design and ambience to please all palates.

A guest room at Sparrows Lodge
A guest room at Sparrows Lodge © Johnny Valiant
A guest bathroom at Sparrows Lodge
A guest bathroom at Sparrows Lodge © Johnny Valiant

The one the Angelenos are buzzing to see, Hotel Wren 29 Palms, is opening in spring. In the meantime you can’t go wrong at Sparrows Lodge, which has been around since long before anyone had the idea for Coachella; MGM Studios actor Don Castle built it in the 1950s and it’s been operating as a hotel for decades. The supremely cool Parisian DJ Claire-Marie Rutledge gave it a style refresh in 2022, and now it’s often booked close to solid, especially at weekends.

The spa entrance beyond the olive grove at Sands Hotel & Spa
The spa entrance beyond the olive grove at Sands Hotel & Spa © Jaime Kowal
The Pink Cabana at Sands Hotel & Spa
The Pink Cabana at Sands Hotel & Spa © Jaime Kowal

All the rough timber walls, exposed beam ceilings, and poured concrete floors combine rusticity with Rutledge’s nods to the area’s apex of 1950s and 1960s style, from the pottery to the beaten-up leather butterfly chairs and the saddle blankets at the foot of your bed. That there are works by the likes of Alex Katz, Ed Ruscha and John Baldessari hanging here and there doesn’t hurt. If you’re after just a dose of old Palm Desert glamour, a dinner at The Pink Cabana at the Sands Hotel & Spa will deliver: Mediterranean-Moroccan food in a space created by LA’s king of maximalism, Martyn Lawrence-Bullard. sparrowslodge.com, from $249; sandshotelandspa.com, from $154


Malibu’s most loved

Malibu Beach Inn
Malibu Beach Inn © Malibu Beach Inn

How Malibu has changed in 20 years. Gone are the $3 tacos and feral surfers, replaced by $10 valet tips and premium nigiri at Nobu Malibu. The Malibu Pier – once home to the storied hippie-Hollywood hangout Alice’s Restaurant – is now dominated by a fancy retail outpost of One Gun Ranch, co-owned by a different Alice, the English one called Bamford.

The terrace at Malibu Beach Inn
The terrace at Malibu Beach Inn © Malibu Beach Inn
The King Pier View room at Malibu Beach Inn
The King Pier View room at Malibu Beach Inn © Malibu Beach Inn

Praise, then, for the Malibu Beach Inn (opened 1989), which notwithstanding a 2007 “luxury” upgrade still quietly evinces the spirit of the place. The 47 rooms and suites are all raw wood, ocean hues, generous fireplaces, sliding glass doors, few lofty airs, and the shore 10 paces away. The Inn’s restaurant, Carbon Beach Club, is an actual beach club, with loungers and umbrellas in the sand. The discreet spa, CURE, does it all, from morning movement classes to IV infusions and PRP, via the usual body and face treatments. And the location is easy walking distance to all the New ‘Bu bells, whistles and attractions. malibubeachinn.com, from $660


Old-school ranching in the Santa Ynez Valley

The Lane at Alisal Ranch
The Lane at Alisal Ranch © Teal Thomsen

Working-ranch stays tend to be more associated with the Rockies – Colorado, Montana, Wyoming – than they are with southern California. But Alisal has been operating on 10,500 acres in the gorgeous rolling hills north-west of Santa Barbara since 1946, when it opened to just 30 guests for the summer. It’s evolved since, most notably in the accommodations, which in earlier years were fairly spartan; today they’re cosy and rustic-chic, but operate roughly along the same configurations, with houses for larger groups (Jackson House – named for Pete Jackson, the owner who opened parts of Alisal to the public – sleeps 12; Turner House, 10) and studios and cottages for smaller families and couples.

The Santa Barbara landscape around Alisal Ranch
The Santa Barbara landscape around Alisal Ranch © Teal Thomsen
A sitting area in one of Alisal’s accommodations
A sitting area in one of Alisal’s accommodations © Victoria Pearson
The ranch is set in 10,500 acres of southern California
The ranch is set in 10,500 acres of southern California © Teal Thomsen
The Turner House at Alisal Ranch, named for interior designer Nathan Turner who designed it
The Turner House at Alisal Ranch, named for interior designer Nathan Turner who designed it © Victoria Pearson

There’s a golf course and three tennis courts, as well as a spa and a handful of only-at-Alisal wellness experiences – in April, globally recognised equine-therapy expert Devon Combs will lead a women-only healing-with-horses retreat (from $3,600). But the place is perhaps still best experienced in the salutary simplicity of the original offering: days spent outdoors, hiking or in the saddle, learning about sustainable ranching practices and local wildlife, eating clean, delicious food, and constellation-spotting at night (the skies are exceptionally clear here). alisalranch.com, from $613 for two, full board



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Dramatic explosion caught on video destroys homes, injures six, officials say

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Dramatic explosion caught on video destroys homes, injures six, officials say


A natural gas line leak triggered a dramatic explosion that destroyed a Bay Area home on Thursday, injuring six people and damaging several other properties.

At least one person was inside the home before it was leveled in the blast. The individual managed to escape without injury, but six others were hurt, including three who suffered serious injuries, Alameda County Fire Department spokesperson Cheryl Hurd said.

“It was a chaotic scene,” Hurd said. “There was fire and debris and smoke everywhere, power lines down, people self-evacuated from the home. … Someone was on the sidewalk with severe burns.”

The leak started after a third-party construction crew working Thursday morning in the 800 block of East Lewelling Boulevard in Hayward struck a Pacific Gas and Electric underground natural gas line, according to a statement from the utility.

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Fire crews were first dispatched to the scene at 7:46 a.m. after PG&E reported a suspected natural gas leak, Hurd said. PG&E officials were already on scene when fire engines arrived, and reportedly told firefighters their assistance was not needed, Hurd said.

Utility workers attempted to isolate the damaged line, but gas was leaking from multiple locations. Workers shut off the flow of gas at about 9:25 a.m. About ten minutes later an explosion occurred, PG&E said in a statement.

Fire crews were called back to the same address, where at least 75 firefighters encountered heavy flames and a thick column of smoke. Surrounding homes sustained damage from the blast and falling debris. Three buildings were destroyed on two separate properties and several others were damaged, according to fire officials.

Six people were taken to Eden Medical Center, including three with severe injuries requiring immediate transport. Officials declined to comment on the nature of their injuries.

Video captured from a Ring doorbell affixed to a neighboring house showed an excavator digging near the home moments before the explosion. The blast rattled nearby homes, shattered windows and sent construction crews running.

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Initially, authorities suspected that two people were missing after the blast. That was determined not to be the case, Hurd said.

“They brought in two cadaver dogs looking to see if anyone was still trapped under the rubble, and the dogs cleared everything,” Hurd said.

Brittany Maldonado had just returned from dropping off her son at school Thursday morning when she noticed a PG&E employee checking out her gas meter. He informed her that there was an issue and they had to turn off the gas to her home.

She didn’t think twice about it.

“About 45 minutes later, everything shakes,” she told reporters at the scene. “It was a big boom…first we think someone ran into our house—a truck or something—and then we look outside and it’s like a war zone.”

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The house across the street was leveled, Maldonado said. When she watched the footage from her Ring camera she said it looked as though a bomb inside the home had gone off.

“I’m very glad that no one lost their lives,” she said.

Officials with the Sheriff’s Office, PG&E and the National Transportation Safety Board are continuing to investigate the circumstances that led to the explosion.

In 2010, a PG&E pipeline ruptured in a San Bruno neighborhood, destroying 38 homes and killing eight people. California regulators later approved a $1.6-billion fine against the utility for violating state and federal pipeline safety standards.

Staff writer Hannah Fry contributed to this report

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Neil Thwaites promoted to ‘Vice President of Global Sales & California Commercial Performance’ for Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines – Alaska Airlines, Hawaiian Airlines and Horizon Air

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Neil Thwaites promoted to ‘Vice President of Global Sales & California Commercial Performance’ for Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines – Alaska Airlines, Hawaiian Airlines and Horizon Air


Thwaites will lead the strategy and execution of all sales activities for the combined Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines team. His responsibilities include growing indirect revenue on Alaska’s expanding international and domestic network, as well as expanding Atmos for Business, a new program designed for small- and medium-sized companies.

Thwaites joined Alaska Airlines in January 2022 as regional vice president in California. Since stepping into the role, Thwaites has significantly sharpened the airline’s focus and scale in key markets and communities across the state, strengthening Alaska’s position as we continue to grow in California. He will continue to be based at the company’s California offices in Burlingame. The moves take effect Dec. 13, with Thwaites also continuing to lead his current California commercial planning and performance function in addition to Global Sales.

Prior to Alaska, Thwaites worked in multiple positions within the airline industry, including a decade holding roles in London, New York, and Los Angeles for British Airways (a fellow oneworld member); most recently as ‘VP, Sales – Western USA’, where he was responsible for market development strategy and indirect revenue for both British Airways and Iberia across the western U.S.

Thwaites is originally from the United Kingdom and graduated from the University of Brighton with a double honors degree in Business Administration & Law.

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Tiny tracker following monarch butterflies during California migration

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Tiny tracker following monarch butterflies during California migration


SAN FRANCISCO (KGO) — When this monarch butterfly hits the sky it won’t be traveling alone. In fact, an energetic team of researchers will be following along with a revolutionary technology that’s already unlocking secrets that could help the entire species survive.

“I’ve described this technology as a spaceship compared to the wheel, like using a using a spaceship compared to the invention of the wheel. It’s teaching us so, so much more,” says Ray Moranz, Ph.D., a pollinator conservation specialist with the Xerces Society.

Moranz is part of a team that’s been placing tiny tracking devices on migrating monarchs. The collaboration is known as Project Monarch Science. It leverages solar powered radio tags that are so light they don’t affect the butterfly’s ability to fly. And they’re allowing researchers to track the Monarch’s movements in precise detail. With some 400 tags in place, the group already been able to get a nearly real time picture of monarch migrations east of the Rockies, with some populations experiencing dramatic twists and turns before making to wintering grounds in Mexico.

“They’re trying to go southward to Mexico. They can’t fight the winds. Instead, some of them were letting themselves be carried 50 miles north, 100 miles north, 200 miles the wrong way, which we are all extremely alarmed by and for good reason. Some of these monarchs, their migration was delayed by two or three weeks.

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According to estimates, migrating monarch populations have dropped by roughly 80% or more across the country. And the situation with coastal species here in California is especially dire. Blake Barbaree is a senior scientist with Point Blue Conservation Science. He and his colleagues are tracking Northern California populations now clustered around Santa Cruz.

MORE: Monarch butterflies to be listed as a threatened species in US

“This year, there’s it’s one of the lowest, populations recorded in the winter. And the core zones have been in Santa Cruz County and up in Marin County. So we’ve undertaken an effort to understand how the monarchs are really using these different groves around Santa Cruz by tagging some in the state parks around town,” Barbaree explains.

He says being able to track individual monarchs could help identify microhabitats in the area that help them survive, ranging from backyard pollinator gardens to protected open space to forest groves.

“So we’re really getting a great insight to how reliant they are on these big trees, but also the surrounding area and people’s even backyards. And then along the way around the coast, how they’re transitioning among some of these groves. And we’re looking for some of the triggers for those movements. Right. Why are they doing this and what’s what’s driving them to do that? So those questions are still a little bit further out as we get to analyze some more some more of the data,” he believes.

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And that data is getting even more precise. The tags, developed by Cellular Tracking Technologies, can be monitored from dedicated listening stations. But the company is also able to crowdsource signals detected by cellphone networks on phones with Bluetooth connectivity and location access activated. And they’ve also helped develop an app that allows volunteers, citizen scientists, and the general public to track and report Monarch locations themselves using their smartphones.

CEO Michael Lanzone says the initial response has been overwhelming.

MORE: New butterflies introduced in SF’s Presidio after species went extinct in 1940s

“We were super surprised to see 3,000 people download the monarch app. It’s like, you know, but people really love monarchs. There’s something that people just relate to,” says Lanzone who like many staffers at Cellular Tracking Technologies, has a background in wildlife ecology.

A number of groups are pushing to have the monarchs designated nationally as a threatened species. If that ultimately happens, researchers believe the tracking data could help put better protections in place.

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“They’re highly vulnerable to, you know, some of the different things that that that we as humans do around using pesticides and also potentially cutting, you know, cutting down trees for various reasons. Sometimes they’re for safety and sometimes it’s, you know, for development. But so having an understanding of how we can do those things more sensibly and protect the places that they need the most,” says Point Blue’s Barbaree.

And it’s happening with the help of researchers, citizen scientists, and a technology weighing no more than a few grains of rice.

The smartphone app is called Project Monarch Science. You can download it for free and begin tracking.

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