I stood on the banks of the Verde River amid a grove of cottonwood trees. The river ran fat and sassy, fueled by a recent winter storm, and the water swept by in a gurgling whoosh, like a ghost train.

I was exploring Rockin’ River Ranch, Arizona’s brand new state park in Camp Verde. Suddenly, I realized I wasn’t alone.

A small shape wobbled out of the shadows into the sunlight. It flew past me, almost in slow motion, like a leaf caught in a breeze. Black wings were wrapped in a vivid yellow border. It was Feb. 16 and this was my first butterfly of 2024.

The mourning cloak butterfly (I looked it up later) doesn’t migrate. It is one of the few species that hibernates overwinter and is considered a herald of spring since it’s often one of the first butterflies to be seen. Mourning cloaks prefer sunny areas near running water. And I dare you to name a desert dweller that doesn’t.

The Verde River runs through Rockin’ River Ranch State Park

Rockin’ River Ranch State Park is a sunny area near running water. The former ranch sits at the confluence of West Clear Creek and the Verde River. It officially opened as a state park on Feb. 9, just a week before my visit, and still has that new park smell. Or maybe that’s just the loamy scent of lush woodlands with spring on the way.

The park stretches across 209 acres of pasture, floodplain and forest with the line of Black Hills rising in the west. Big sycamore, cottonwood, willow, ash and hackberry trees grow along the river. A mesquite bosque spreads out from the water and provides additional habitat for birds and wildlife. Nearly a mile of Verde River slices through Rockin’ River Ranch, a robust riparian corridor that curves beneath a wall of white gypsum cliffs.

What you won’t find are many of the amenities associated with other state parks. A small visitor center has a tiny gift shop, restrooms and that’s pretty much it. A few ranch buildings still stand but are not open to the public. This is a park that keeps things simple. You’re close to nature but you never feel like you’re roughing it.

This is a quiet corner of Arizona. On the day I visited, besides my butterfly amigo, it was just a few folks wandering the trails or having a picnic by the river. One couple saddled up horses, keeping the ranch spirit alive.

Birders will wear out their binoculars scanning for the dozens of species found at the park including meadowlark, summer tanager, northern shoveler and wood duck. A pair of bald eagles nest downstream and can be seen hunting here. The park also serves as a springtime rookery for a local population of great blue herons. Each spring, up to 10 herons raise their chicks high in the branches of a tree near the old ranch lodge.

During my February visit, Rockin’ River Ranch still wore the drab earth tones of winter. Trees were leafless and dried stalks and grasses dominated the pasture. But things were changing. New grass and plant shoots were carpeting the forest floor. A butterfly now patrolled the grounds. I stood by the river picturing how beautiful the park would be when everything greened up. And the splash of water would be a siren song for metro Phoenix residents.   

Swimming is allowed at Rockin’ River Ranch State Park

Rockin’ River Ranch will offer an idyllic summer getaway. While Camp Verde is only be about 10 degrees cooler than Phoenix during the summer months, the park is blessed with something desert dwellers crave: shade and water.

Flowing year round, the Verde River is the heart and soul of the park. For eons this vital waterway has attracted animals and humans alike, and has been the foundation for agricultural cultures from prehistoric times to the modern day. With the opening of the state park, the river retains protection while also providing recreational opportunities. 

Now there’s a brand new swimming hole on the scene and that’s always cause for celebration in an arid landscape. The river is open for swimming, wading or just to sit beside while enjoying its splashy serenade. Is there a more musical sound in the high desert?

Please treat the river with the respect it deserves and pack out all trash. And exercise caution. There is no lifeguard on duty; swimming is at your own risk.

Rockin’ River Ranch State Park trails

Six easy hiking trails traverse the park. They’re wide and mostly level — graveled hardpack — crisscrossing the gentle terrain. Benches are strategically positioned along the pathways and there is no shortage of picnic tables.

• The 0.2-mile Shady Acres Trail offers almost immediate access to the river as it dips beneath the tree canopy of the riparian zone where several picnic tables overlook the water.
• The 1.2-mile Pasture Loop Trail offers mountain views and opportunities to see wildlife.
• White Cliffs Trail, a 1.7 mile loop that’s the longest trail in the park, is the most dramatic as it winds through forest following the river that curves along a rocky wall.
• Connector trails — Buckaroo Trail (0.4 mile), Outlaw Trail (0.3 mile) and Miano Trail (0.3 mile) — are positioned to form shorter loops. Trail maps are available upon entry.

Rockin River Ranch State Park fishing

Anglers can try their luck fishing for largemouth and smallmouth bass, redeye, channel and flathead catfish, bluegill and green sunfish. A valid Arizona fishing license is required for anglers 10 and older.

Kayaking is also allowed and is popular on this segment of the Verde River. Be advised there are no put-in spots within the park. That’s not necessarily a deal breaker because there is one right next door.

Clear Creek River Access Point is about 100 yards north of the entrance to Rockin’ River Ranch. There are only a few parking spots here and it’s a short, steep hill down to the water. But since this is where Clear Creek (not to be confused with West Clear Creek) joins the Verde, there’s generally a good flow even in the low water days of early summer.

You can put in below the small diversion dam. From here, it’s about 4.3 miles downstream, passing through Rockin’ River Ranch to Beasley Flat which has a boat ramp, interpretive signs and toilets.  

Rockin’ River Ranch State Park camping

Rockin’ River Ranch is open for day use only. There is no camping for tents or RVs.

Rockin’ River Ranch State Park

When: Day use only. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Fridays-Sundays. Last entry is at 4 p.m. Closed Mondays-Thursdays.

Where: 4513 S. Salt Mine Road, Camp Verde. From central Phoenix, take Interstate 17 north to Exit 287. Turn southeast on State Route 260 and go 1.6 miles to Oasis Road. Turn right on Oasis, which merges with Salt Mine Road. Continue for 5 miles to the park.

Admission: $7 per vehicle.

Facilities: Visitor center with gift shop, hiking trails, restrooms, picnic tables (pack out your trash). There are no drinking fountains, so bring water. Bottled water is sold in the gift shop.

Details: 928-284-7912, azstateparks.com/rockin-river.

Meet Roger Naylor

Arizona Republic contributor and author Roger Naylor will be at the Superstition Mountain Museum in Apache Junction at 2 p.m. Thursday, March 21, to give a presentation on his book, “Awesome Arizona: 200 Amazing Facts about the Grand Canyon State.”

The free talk will be held in the amphitheater. Superstition Mountain Museum is at 4087 E. Apache Trail. 480-983-4888, www.superstitionmountainlostdutchmanmuseum.org.

Find the reporter at www.rogernaylor.com. Or follow him on Facebook at www.facebook.com/RogerNaylorinAZ or Twitter @AZRogerNaylor.