Alaska
Orcas teens return from 710-mile boat race to Alaska | Islands' Sounder
After almost eight days of sailing, Orcas Island teens Dagney Kruger and Else Ranker finished the Race to Alaska (R2AK) on June 20.
Joined by Bellingham teammates Bryce Lutz and Willow Gray, they traveled the 710 miles from Victoria B.C. to Ketchikan, Alaska on their Carrera 19, Loose Cannon. The team faced different challenges throughout their journey, but also met many great supporters and participants along the way.
The team, which chose the name ‘The Juvenile Delinquents’ in reference to the final weeks of school they would skip in order to participate in the race, left for Alaska at noon on June 12. Prior to this official start, teams completed a portion known as ‘the proving grounds’ on June 9, which involved a 40 mile stint from Port Townsend to Victoria B.C. It was during this initial run that The Juvenile Delinquents faced their first challenge. The team discovered leakage as standing water began to pool. Lutz caulked the boat following this discovery, but the leaks continued to be a slight challenge for the team.
Around the third day of the trip, they hit the most difficult part of the journey as they crossed Queen Charlotte’s Strait between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia, Canada. The team, two of whom had been awake since midnight due to a disruption in their sleep schedule after making a stop to catch the tide, faced high winds and large swells coming off the ocean, the first swells they had experienced thus far.
“Suddenly we’re beating upwind and we can see on the tracker that we’re like, three to four miles [behind them], and these were two teams that we’ve been catching the whole time,” said Kruger. “So we know they’re like right there, but also everyone’s seasick, and all day we see these giant swells and heavy wind, it’s not fun.”
Additionally, Kruger explained that while in Queen Charlotte Strait, you can see Cape Caution, the next daunting landmark for competitors. It is the first cape on the course that is unprotected and out on the open ocean, where the racers experience the largest swells of the trip.
Once they forged through the rough open water, the team experienced smoother sailing, ducking behind islands for more protection and falling into more of a rhythm with their sleep schedules and acclimating to being on the water. They took turns with two awake and two asleep, unless more extreme conditions required three on deck. Kruger said that all of the members needed to know how to do everything since there were only four people on the team and everyone needed to sleep.
Despite a windier start to their adventure during the proving grounds portion, the wind was lighter than Kruger had hoped for. Because their pedal drive was not in top condition, the team was at a disadvantage, but they still finished 4th among other monohull vessels and 8th overall.
One of Kruger’s original goals was to beat the other youth team from Seattle, and the Juvenile Delinquents ended up finishing only one hour after the other youth team.
“It turned into a lot more of a drag race than I ever thought it was going to be,” said Kruger. “You look at the tracker, it’s like we’re basically on top of each other for the last three days, just like drag racing. We didn’t beat them, but we only lost to them by like, an hour after [sailing] over 700 miles, it was crazy.”
However, there were no hard feelings. Kruger described one of the highlights being the night before the two youth teams finished the race, the Seattle team pulled up behind The Juvenile Delinquents and they rafted their boats together, tossing snacks back and forth between the boats.
Besides the camaraderie created by fellow competitors, Kruger mentioned the overwhelming support from friends and family, as well as spectators who kept track of the racers’ progress online. During their only stop on land to get more water, the team decided to stop near a tiny town after making it past Brown Bay and Seymour Narrows, the first major landmark in the race. Kruger said when they pulled up to the dock, there were already two people waiting for them with a hose and a jerry can filled with water.
As for the scenery of the trip, Kruger quoted her teammate Gray who was amazed by the surreal beauty: “It was a lot less rainy than expected and more of a fever dream.”
If given the chance to re-do the race, Kruger said in general she felt they did a good job and wouldn’t change much beyond running more tests prior to the journey to discover the leaks as well as improve the pedal drive situation. As for advice to those interested in competing in the R2AK, Kruger adamantly encourages others to go for it, but to be prepared for the highs and lows of the trip, and that it helps to have someone who has sailed up the coast before.
“You’re gonna hit a low moment, if you don’t move, then you’re gonna stay there. But like, I had such a hard moment in Johnstone strait like, ‘What the hell are we doing here?’ But as soon as you get up and you go outside, there is a beautiful moon and [the water’s] glassy, and there’s no end, it’s so pretty. You just have to appreciate where you are,” said Kruger.
In the future, Kruger hopes to compete in the Washington 360, a 360 mile boat race around the puget sound, which after completing the R2AK will be a ‘less serious’ venture for Kruger. She also hopes to compete in the Pacific Cup, a 2,000 mile yacht race from San Francisco to Oahu, Hawaii, with her father next summer.
Alaska
Opinion: Life lessons learned from mushing and old-time Alaska
This is the beginning of the Iditarod spring, signaled by the burst of sun and what used to be the long wait for dog teams to pass under the arch in Nome, the finish line a thousand miles away from Anchorage. For old-timers, it’s the story of the way Alaska used to be. What once was a 30-day wait has become about 10 days for winners to celebrate and the rest of us to shout, “Well done.”
My story is about family that welcomed immigrants from all over the world to be among the last groups of Indigenous people in the country, a life of taking good care of dog teams, and of parents who taught their children how to live in a wild, rugged frontier.
I came to be in a different age, a time of dog teams that ruled the trails to mining camps and where the salmon ran strongest — before the introduction of the snowmachine that revolutionized rural and Native Alaska.
For the Blatchford family, it is a recognition that some things will always stay the same and everything else changes. All four of my grandparents were noncitizens. My mother Lena’s parents of Elim were Alaska Natives, as was my dad Ernie’s mother, Mae, of Shishmaref. The name Blatchford comes from his father, the Englishman who was born in Cornwall and arrived in Nome during the gold rush. His brother, William, was one of the early immigrants, and by 1899 there was a creek just outside Nome named after him. He discovered gold. My grandfather, Percy, found gold, too, but it was a different kind of wealth, a finding that he had found home and never left.
I was born in Nome, delivered by an Iñupiaq Eskimo midwife in a one-room cabin where the frozen Bering Sea met the treeless tundra’s permafrost. Dad had a dog team. I like to think that the dogs were anxious for me to be born because it was hunting time for Dad to hitch them up and mush out to where the sea mammals, snowshoe hares, ptarmigan and other game thrived in the winter. My earliest memories are of dogs; all of them working as a team to bring home the game so we could have a fine meal cooked by Lena. In the Arctic, dogs were essential for family survival. If you didn’t hunt, you didn’t eat.
There are several memories that remain strong. I suppose I can call them lessons of the Arctic.
The first is to take care of the dogs and treat them well. Dog lovers all over the world know very well that a dog, whatever the breed, is loyal and will die to protect the one who feeds and pets it. If you don’t feed a husky, it won’t pull, and it could mean a long time before the family eats. When a dog team is hungry, it will race back home to be fed a healthy meal. Mother Lena must have been a great cook because Dad said the dog team always raced back to the edge of Nome, where Lena was waiting beside the propane stove. For Mike, Tom and me, our job was to take the rifle, shotgun and .22 into the cabin to be cleaned and oiled. Once that was quickly done, we unhitched the dogs and then fed the team.
All three of us boys had special responsibilities to Tim, Buttons and Girlie. Tim, the lead dog, was brother Mike’s pet; Tom had Buttons, and I had Girlie. We made sure they were healthy and well cared for. Dad would often comment that “Papa,” our grandfather Percy, the Englishman, took good care of his dog teams, being kind to the dogs and feeding them. Dad was the oldest of a large family that lived in Teller and later Nome.
“Papa” Percy was a prospector, fox farmer and a contestant in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes, the dog team race from Nome to the mining camp of Candle, a 400-mile race. He didn’t win, but he finished well, very well. The stories of the Sweepstakes have remained with the family for over a century. At a memorial service in Palmer for “Doc” Blatchford, Aunt Marge, without a question or a prompt, said that Papa took good care of his dogs.
Percy Blatchford was a legend in the Alaska Territory. As a teacher of Alaska newspapers, I would find headlines similar to one in the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner that blazed on the front page: “Blatchford Wins Solomon Derby.” There was even a story in The New York Times.
There’s probably no other sport in Alaska that brought Alaskans together like dog mushing. When old-timers would visit over strong coffee, dogs and dog team racing would come up. In the territory, there were few high schools and fewer gymnasiums, so the only team sport was dog mushing. It was something to talk about that was unique to Alaskans.
I used to travel in rural Alaska quite a bit. In the smaller communities, I would see the teams and would wonder how long they would power the engines that brought the mail and the foodstuffs down and up the trails. When I think of dog teaming, I think of the Iditarod and wonder, and then come to know, what the strength of the story would mean for bringing generations together from Papa Blatchford to his eldest son Ernie and to the fourth generation of Blatchfords in Alaska.
There are times when I think that old-time Alaska is gone. But then my faith and confidence in the old-time spirit are ignited when I see what others in the Lower 48 see. When I was walking in downtown Philadelphia, I looked up and saw on an ancient federal building a stamped concrete sculpture of a dog musher leaning into a blizzard. Such is the way I think of the Iditarod and the lessons I learned growing up with the dog team, preserved in my memories.
Edgar Blatchford is former mayor of Seward, Mile 0 of the Iditarod Trail.
• • •
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Alaska
These lines are adding Alaska cruises. Is your favorite on the list?
New Alaska voyages debut in 2026 as lines like MSC Cruises and Virgin Voyages expand into the booming market.
How to find the best price, perks when booking a cruise
Find the cruise that works for your budget with these tips.
Problem Solved
Travelers will have new ways to see Alaska this year.
A number of cruise lines are launching sailings to the Last Frontier in 2026, from luxury to large family-friendly and adults-only ships. About 65% of people visiting the state during the summer do so by cruise ship, according to Cruise Lines International Association Alaska, and demand is high.
“I think Alaska is always very popular, but we’re seeing that ships are selling out way quicker than they used to,” Joanna Kuther, a travel agent and owner of Port Side Travel Consultants, told USA TODAY.
With new inventory opening up this season, here’s what travelers should know about Alaska cruises.
Which cruise lines are adding Alaska sailings?
- MSC Cruises will launch its first-ever Alaska sailings aboard MSC Poesia on May 11. The ship will be fresh from dry dock to add enhancements, including the line’s luxe ship-within-a-ship concept, the MSC Yacht Club.
- Virgin Voyages’ newest ship, Brilliant Lady, will operate the company’s inaugural Alaska cruises. The adults-only cruise line will set sail there starting on May 21.
- The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection will debut its first Alaska cruises this year on its Luminara vessel. The first of those sailings will depart on May 28.
Those join other operators like Holland America Line, Princess Cruises, American Cruise Lines, Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean International, Disney Cruise Line, Celebrity Cruises and more.
What are the draws of Alaska cruises?
Glaciers are a major attraction for visitors. “One of the major (draws) is Glacier Bay,” said Kuther. “…And then the other one is definitely the wildlife.”
That includes bears, whales, moose and salmon. In addition to its many natural wonders, the state is also a cultural destination where visitors can learn about its Native peoples.
When is the best time to take an Alaska cruise?
That depends what you’re looking for. The Alaska cruise season generally runs from April through October, and Kuther said visitors will tend to see more wildlife between the end of June through August.
“That’s super peak season,” she said. “That’s also where you’re going to have more families, more crowds.” Some locals have also said those crowds are putting a strain on the very environment tourists are there to see.
Travelers may find less packed ships and ports by visiting earlier or later in the season – and there are other perks. If passengers go in May “it’s still a little bit snowy, so your scenery is going to be really cool,” Kuther said. Travelers visiting in September or October, meanwhile, could have a better shot at seeing the northern lights.
Where do ships usually sail?
The most popular itinerary is the Inside Passage, according to Kuther. That often sails round-trip from Seattle or Vancouver with stops such as Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan. “People will go back to Alaska and do different routes,” she said. “This is a very good way to start.”
Other options include one-way cruises between Vancouver or Seattle and Anchorage. Travelers can also take cruisetours that combine sailings with land-based exploration, including train rides and tours of Denali National Park and Preserve.
Tips for Alaska cruises
- Book early: Alaska itineraries sell out quickly, and so do shore excursions. Unique offerings like helicopter tours and dog sledding are popular, and there are only so many spots.
- Consider a balcony cabin: This is “almost a must” in Kuther’s opinion. Crew members may make announcements about whales or other sightings near the ship, and guests with their own private viewing spot won’t have to race out on deck.
- Pack carefully: “Packing is an art when it comes to Alaska,” Kuther said. “It really is, because you need so many things.” Her top three picks are bug spray, layers of clothing for the fluctuating temperatures and a waterproof jacket in case of rain.
Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at ndiller@usatoday.com.
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