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OPINION: Gratitude for the beautiful land

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OPINION: Gratitude for the beautiful land


Way back when, an invisible hand lent shape to the world and, over time, balance, color and movement were blended in. By the end of this chaotic and sweaty job, I think our majesties were well fashioned.

In 1895, Katharine Lee Bates recognized all this and aptly put words to the creator’s handiwork. Appearing first as a poem, her memorializing words, “for purple mountain majesties,” helped illuminate America’s wild beauty.

One such place where Bates’ lingering sentiments may still be observed are in Utah’s Canyonlands National Park. Before I share with you my visit to this park, I’d like first to invite you to relax and let stretch your imagination. A good bench — one with a view — can help with this task.

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We had parked our car close to the beaten trailhead that led off across a landscape of ochre-colored, flat as a pancake, sandstone rock. A small sign planted here signaled where the trail split into different sections about a mile in. From this point, the vastness of the park would reveal itself.

“C’mon, slowpoke,” my wife coaxed teasingly.

Trodding along behind everyone else in our company, I complained, “My feet hurt,” then added in for a morsel more for sympathy, “My neuropathy is really killing me today.”

About then, our group overtook an elderly woman making her way along the trail. As she hunched over her walker, I noticed she was sporting a sizable pair of binoculars that could have been used to spy on the man in the moon. Charging forward at sloth speed, she was meticulously picking each step as she clump, clump, clumped along. Her clumping was in large part because she didn’t have the benefit of one of those snappy-looking candy-apple red, roller-operated jobs. Instead, hers was the kind of contraption one might find at a thrift store. Bent up, having long ago lost its rubber feet that were once attached to the walker’s hollow and unseaworthy-looking legs.

Grip, lift, place, one step and then steady up. Grip, lift, place, one step and then steady up. All times 1,000. “Hmmm,” I said to myself, “Pretty cool that she has traveled this far to bear witness to one of creation’s finest monuments.” Observing her further as we strode on by, I thought, “Too bad she’s not going to make it much farther.”

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A few minutes later, we arrived at the trail’s junction. Spotting a comfortable-looking bench, I sat down. As I appeared to have settled in for the day, my wife queried, “What are you doing? C’mon, get up and let’s go, the best is yet to come.”

“Nah, you guys go on ahead,” I said. “This trail is getting hard on my feet. I’ll wait here until you get back.”

Seeing I had planted myself more permanently than the scrubby little juniper pines rooted around me, she quickly marched off with the rest of our friends.

Left alone, the quiet beauty rolled in, like an advancing fog bank enveloping me. On the rock next to me was a yellow-headed lizard that kept sticking its tongue out at me. I tossed a pine cone at him, whereupon the little dragon sprung upright and ran away on its two hind legs.

I heard her approaching before I saw her. Given her own disability, I was all but certain the old gal we had earlier left in the dust would also surrender herself to a well-earned rest on the bench. Good, I thought, we could both share in the solitude.

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But no, it was not to be. Instead, as she was passing, she paused and ever-so-slightly swiveled her head in my direction and gave me a tortured small smile. Then, in a barely audible voice, she said, “It’s all so beautiful; maybe I’ll keep going all the way.”

“All the way where?” I asked.

“Over there,” she replied as she hoisted up her rickety apparatus and pointed its bare feet at the distant vista we were now both admiring.

Before she pressed on, I noticed in her weathered face the wince from some crippling pain as she put down the walker and struggled once again to move forward into the majestic, a free spirit. She was undeterred to explore the beyond, with little regard to how she would ever return.

Watching her fade away, I asked myself, “But what explorer worth their own salt ever worried about the path back from any difficult journey taken?”

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So to this stranger, and others like her, I bow low. And for a land that continues to endure, I give thanks.

Pete Garay is a state-licensed marine pilot who lives in Homer with his wife and three children. His hobbies include fishing, gardening and oil painting.

The views expressed here are the writer’s and are not necessarily endorsed by the Anchorage Daily News, which welcomes a broad range of viewpoints. To submit a piece for consideration, email commentary(at)adn.com. Send submissions shorter than 200 words to letters@adn.com or click here to submit via any web browser. Read our full guidelines for letters and commentaries here.





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Alaska

Letter: Enjoying the wildlife

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Letter: Enjoying the wildlife


By Johan Whang

Updated: 50 minutes ago Published: 50 minutes ago

As we begin to approach the summer, it seems that our fellow animals cannot stop themselves from enjoying the best time of the year with us. Living in the state of Alaska, the transition from winter to summer presents us with a double-edged sword.

Instead of allowing us a smooth transition into our sunny warm days, Mother Nature forces us to deal with her nuisances of the spring season. Seemingly unable to deny her love for our state, she provides us with melted brown snow and her blessing of a variety of different animals — including the frightening bears, grazing moose, the geese, and their share of poop, it seems that Mother Nature loves to gift us with her wholehearted presence. Studying here at the University of Alaska Anchorage, it has become a common occurrence for students to run into animals, such as moose, during their casual walk in between classes. A friend of mine from the lower 48 commented, “Wow, these moose are really reminding me of all the stray cats at home.” As she was a Texas native, you can imagine the shock she must have felt when she realized our moose in Alaska are as abundant as the stray cats in Texas.

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My friends and I began to participate in a game introduced by my friend from Texas, naming the different stray cats we encountered, but of course, we were naming moose doing our best to differentiate their identical brown fur.

Whether Mother Nature provides us with stray cats or stray moose, wandering bears, or geese poop, in our state of Alaska, the spring season is a time when we cannot avoid her presence.

It is only through this pesky time that we can transition from six months of cold dark days into our brisk three-month-long summer. This is Alaska’s charm at its finest and the existence of Mother Nature’s encompassing love.

— Yohan Whang

Anchorage

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Have something on your mind? Send to letters@adn.com or click here to submit via any web browser. Letters under 200 words have the best chance of being published. Writers should disclose any personal or professional connections with the subjects of their letters. Letters are edited for accuracy, clarity and length.





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Local air carrier adopts new tech with aim to make travel in Southeast Alaska safer, more reliable • Alaska Beacon

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Local air carrier adopts new tech with aim to make travel in Southeast Alaska safer, more reliable • Alaska Beacon


The air was clear and smooth over the Lynn Canal between Juneau and Haines on Thursday, so there was no need to use the new technology installed in the Cessna Grand Caravan’s instrument panel. But when the clouds roll in, as they are forecasted to do next week, the updated avionics will allow pilots to fly this common route through conditions that could typically ground passengers, mail and cargo.

“We put all this in place and then we have had just gorgeous weather,” said Alaska Seaplanes’ Marketing Manager Andy Kline with a laugh.

The company has developed new approach paths and installed GPS equipment to make low visibility flights safer and more reliable.

For people who live in communities like Haines, with no jet or road access, travel in and out is mitigated by the weather and the ferry schedule. The comings and goings of the state’s ferries are so critical that they are announced on the radio with the weather. Locals typically build an extra night into their travel plans to account for canceled flights. “If you want to get there, take the ferry,” is a well-worn piece of travel advice that long-time residents dole out to newcomers.

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“We have a goal of being as reliable as the jet,” Kline said of the small plane operator. “We’re not there yet. And even these new approaches don’t get us quite there yet. We’re still going to be on the ground sometimes when the jets are flying.”

Pilot Gregg Hake demonstrates how advanced GPS avionics allow pilots to program approach paths and fly in low visibility conditions on May 2, 2024.

To realize that goal, Alaska Seaplanes, the region’s most comprehensive carrier, has developed new approach paths and installed GPS equipment sensitive enough to allow instrument flights even in the challenging geography of the region. Haines, Hoonah, Sitka, Juneau, Kake, Wrangell and Petersburg flights will benefit from the upgrades, which were costly for the small carrier. Flight prices have gone up significantly in the last five years. A disadvantage for small companies is that they must go through the same approvals processes for new routes as major carriers, like Alaska Airlines, which is a time burden on the small staff.

Kline said it has already changed how often flights get out and the conditions travelers experience. “People who’ve flown to Hoonah have never flown through the clouds,’ he said. “So we’re actually having to brief our passengers before they get on board because people get really concerned.”

Most Southeast communities do not have airports with ground control and towers; they have airstrips. Pilots typically fly under a set of regulations designed around high visibility conditions, so they have lower thresholds for getting out in inclement weather. Instrument flights can be employed in low visibility conditions. They rely on GPS technology and Federal Aviation Administration approved flight paths. Seaplanes recently updated nearly all its wheeled aircraft — float planes were not part of the change — and just had its new flight paths approved for use.

A new approach years in the making

Alaska Seaplanes Assistant Chief Pilot Gregg Hake helped explain the changes at a community meeting on Thursday at the Haines library. The route between Juneau and Haines is one of the primary runs out of Juneau.

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“How many of you have had a flight canceled?” he asked the crowd.

The room erupted in laughter as every hand went up. “Trick question!” called out former mayor Jan Hill.

Hake said in the week after the upgrades, he flew four flights using instruments that would have otherwise been canceled or delayed.

Flights that use what is called IFR, or instrument flight rules, technology are not new, but the sensitivity of the new equipment and the paths it allows the planes to take are new. Federal approvals took years.

“When you don’t have visual recognition in the clouds, it’s flying you on a very specific approach that keeps you away from mountains and keeps you at the right altitude and all those things,” Hake explained.

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An Alaska Seaplanes cargo truck pulls up to one of the company's aircraft in Haines on May 2, 2024. Cargo and mail flights are are also susceptible to weather disruptions, which can leave communities like Haines waiting on letters and parcels for days or weeks. (Photo by Claire Stremple/Alaska Beacon)
An Alaska Seaplanes cargo truck pulls up to one of the company’s aircraft in Haines on May 2, 2024. Cargo and mail flights are are also susceptible to weather disruptions, which can leave communities like Haines waiting on letters and parcels for days or weeks. (Photo by Claire Stremple/Alaska Beacon)

Water and mountains complicate the flight paths in Southeast Alaska. Cooperation is involved, too. Ground control is in Juneau, but the airspace over Haines and much of Southeast Alaska is controlled by a tower in Anchorage.

“The legendary status of Alaska as being a difficult place to fly in comes particularly true here,” he said. “We’re flying between mountains that come straight up out of the water, which complicates things like radio communication, complicates things like GPS reception.”

Hake said pilots are not able to use very many land-based navigational devices because the mountains block the transmission to the airplane.

There are other variables, too. He said magnetism from iron in the Chilkat mountain range can throw a compass 20 degrees off north. Luckily, that does not affect satellite navigation systems.

High visibility is a perk on a flight over seemingly endless icefields and glacier-carved fjords whose silt marbles the deep jade color of the water. But, for people who live here, the option to fly safely in marginal weather is important.

Puppies that will work as sled dogs for the glacier tour in Skagway are briefly unloaded in Haines after a flight from Skagway. They were ultimately en route to Juneau for socialization, on an Alaska Seaplanes flight. (Photo by Claire Stremple/Alaska Beacon)
Puppies that will work as sled dogs for the glacier tour in Skagway are briefly unloaded in Haines after a flight from Skagway. They were ultimately en route to Juneau for socialization, on an Alaska Seaplanes flight. (Photo by Claire Stremple/Alaska Beacon)

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Biden administration blocks oil, gas, and copper projects in Alaskan wilderness — here's why the moves are important

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Biden administration blocks oil, gas, and copper projects in Alaskan wilderness — here's why the moves are important


In a move to protect the fragile Alaskan wilderness, the Biden administration has blocked off land from oil and gas drilling and denied permission for a 211-mile industrial access road to a large copper deposit, citing pollution risks and ice destabilization among its top considerations.

The decisions hand major victories to environmental advocates and local communities, according to The New York Times.

The proposed Ambler Access Project aimed to construct a $350 million gravel road through the pristine Brooks Range foothills and Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve.

However, the Interior Department found that the road would disrupt wildlife habitat, pollute salmon spawning grounds, and threaten the traditional hunting and fishing practices of over 30 Alaska Native communities. The Biden administration also banned drilling across over half of the National Petroleum Reserve-Alaska, “an ecologically sensitive expanse north of the Arctic Circle” that makes up 23 million acres, per the Times.

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Kaleb Froehlich, the managing director of Ambler Metals, the company behind the copper project, called the decision “an unlawful and politically motivated decision” and urged the government to reconsider. However, by blocking this industrial road, the Biden administration is taking a stand for both people and the planet.

The decision safeguards the ecologically rich landscape that caribou and fish populations depend on while also respecting the rights and traditions of indigenous tribes who have sustainably lived off this land for generations.

What’s more, the move aligns with the urgent need to protect permafrost in the face of a changing climate. The Interior Department’s analysis found that constructing the road could accelerate the thawing of ice-rich soils, potentially destabilizing the ground, increasing flood risks, and releasing additional carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

David Krause, the interim executive director of the National Audubon Society’s Alaska office, called the decision to protect this wilderness a “huge deal,” emphasizing that the Ambler area is “one of the most ecologically intact and functional landscapes on the planet.”

Tribal leaders such as Julie Roberts-Hyslop, the first chief of the Tanana Tribe, have also voiced their support, noting that both caribou and fish populations are already struggling in the region and a new road would exacerbate these challenges.

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While the mining company asserts that the road is necessary to access copper for clean energy infrastructure, there are less ecologically sensitive areas with larger reserves that can be tapped, according to the Times. By safeguarding this extraordinary wilderness, we’re ensuring a healthier, more resilient future for both Alaska’s communities and its irreplaceable ecosystems.

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