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Josie’s Story: Alaska’s first boomers

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Josie’s Story: Alaska’s first boomers


Fifth of eight parts. This series tells the untold story of Josie Rudolph, the first settler girl born under the U.S. flag in Alaska — and how her birth here helped her escape from Nazi Germany. Read the first four parts and more about this series here.

• • •

On the week that Josie Rudolph was born, Sitka received a visit from William H. Seward, the secretary of state who negotiated the treaty for Alaska. He was greeted as a hero, the most famous person ever to visit the former Russian colony — and also as someone who might usefully exert his influence to boost the region’s drooping economic and governmental prospects.

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Standing at Seward’s elbow as their steamship approached Baranof Island on July 30, 1869, was Alaska’s first elected official: William S. Dodge, Sitka’s mayor and the town’s biggest booster (and one of its most ambitious real estate investors). Dodge had traveled all the way to Chicago in June to intercept the retired statesman as he set out on a Pacific tour extending from Alaska to Mexico. Dodge and Seward traveled together over the newly opened transcontinental railroad. In San Francisco, Dodge made sure Seward was not distracted, and helped arrange a steamer to carry the politician’s party north.

The distinguished 68-year-old guest took an exhausting three-hour walk upon reaching Sitka. His son later recalled they encountered “Russians in their national dress; United States soldiers in their blue uniforms; Indians in blankets and feathers, and traders and travelers clad in the latest style of Montgomery Street, San Francisco.” Seward toured local businesses, including the Sitka Brewery, in which Dodge shared an ownership interest with Martin Rudolph (Josie’s father) and other businessmen.

Meeting with Dodge and the city council, Seward declared himself pleased with the hospitality of this simple town “on the outward verge of our republican jurisdiction,” and promised their push for civil government and attention from Congress would have his “affectionate solicitude and earnest sympathy.”

Seward sailed around Southeast Alaska for two weeks, meeting with Chilkat Tlingit leaders near modern-day Haines, and observing a solar eclipse in the company of a Coastal Survey team that the secretary himself had sent north two years earlier.

Secretary Seward left Sitka with a boatload of gifts, including Chilkat blankets, 7,000 board feet of yellow cedar siding, and a bald eagle that lived for several years in a cage at his New York estate. Before departing, he delivered a speech at the Lutheran Church, which was smaller than the Russian Orthodox cathedral but boasted pews for the listeners who packed the place.

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Seward predicted a great future for resource extraction and tourism, extolling Alaska’s scenery and sunsets in descriptive prose that would make a modern cruise ship publicist blush. He lauded the citizens of Sitka as civilization’s “advanced guard” made up of “mountaineers and sea-faring men,” the virtuous liberty-loving stock of northern European countries.

Of Sitka’s Jewish immigrants from Middle Europe, Seward said nothing. But he lamented that Alaska’s Indigenous population, eventually and inevitably, must vanish once “civilized white men come.” In the meantime, however, the shrewd and experienced diplomat had quickly apprehended the Tlingit system of justice and reciprocity, personally intervening to procure 36 military blankets to satisfy an outstanding compensation claim by Chilkat chiefs that threatened war against Sitka’s Sheet’ká Kwáan.

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In other cases, however, where Native demands for compensation were made against white settlers rather than rival kwáans, the Army had not always shown the same delicacy. Soon after the Army destroyed Kake village, in March 1869, a Sitka shopkeeper named James Parker chased down a Native who broke a glass showcase and shot him dead with a Henry repeating rifle. Parker was briefly locked up — but by November, he had been appointed the town’s marshal.

Then in December, during a break-in at Isaac Bergman’s butcher shop, Parker spotted a boy running away from a broken window and shot him in the back. An Army investigation concluded that the boy had simply wandered over from a wood-gathering party to see what was going on. His killing was judged “unjustifiable.” But Brig. Gen. Jefferson C. Davis again failed to keep Parker locked up, and this time paid 50 Army blankets to the boy’s family to settle the murder.

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In his speech, Seward said the decline of the Tlingit population was being “accelerated by their borrowing ruinous vices from the white man.” A special investigator, sent to Sitka that same summer by the government’s new humanitarian Board of Indian Commissioners, put it more strongly: Drunken soldiers were bullying, assaulting and raping the Tlingit and mixed-race Russian “creoles.”

“Many has been the night when soldiers have taken possession of a Russian home, and frightened and browbeaten the women into compliance with their lustful passions,” Mayor Dodge told the investigator, Vincent Colyer.

In his blistering report, Colyer blamed the region’s social problems on a nearly comical failure to enforce laws against alcohol smuggling and trade with the Natives.

Sailing to Sitka, Colyer’s steamer had stopped at the military outpost of Fort Tongass, where alcohol could only be imported for the private use of officers. While Colyer watched, the ship unloaded five barrels of whiskey, rum and brandy, multiple cases of Champagne and porter, and 10 barrels of ale. The post had four officers. It was 500 yards from a large Tlingit village. When the federal inspector reached Sitka and reported this outrage, Davis sent a boat to Tongass to confiscate the liquor. Regulations were strictly followed thereafter: The alcohol was impounded for a statutory period, then sold in Sitka at public auction, thus reentering the “Indian trade.” Alaska’s liquor laws, Colyer concluded, were a “farce.”

“The principal teaching (the Indians) at present are receiving is that drunkenness and debauchery are held by us, not as criminal and unbecoming a Christian people, but as indications of our advanced and superior civilization,” said the post’s medical doctor in an appendix to Colyer’s report.

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Colyer’s position was that the Tlingit were industrious and eager to assimilate. He was the first of the Protestant reformers in Southeast Alaska, whose boarding schools were presented as the enlightened alternative to violence and neglect. Those schools tore Native children from their homes and culture, however, and are condemned today for their destructive influence.

Meanwhile, the drinking and shooting continued. In December 1869, at Fort Wrangell, two Tlingit brothers were killed when a Christmas dance party blew up in a fight. Their father put on his fire-red clan regalia to seek compensation and, finding the fort locked, shot and killed the local trader, Leon Smith, who two months earlier had told Colyer his Indian neighbors were “quiet and well-disposed toward the whites.” Two days of gunfire followed, including 23 cannon shots fired from the fort into the adjacent village. Finally the Tlingit called for a ceasefire. The father gave himself over to the Army post and was swiftly tried and hanged. He reportedly said he would explain the principle of just compensation to Leon Smith when he saw him in the afterlife.

• • •

By this time, settlers had started leaving Sitka and returning south. Despite Seward’s lofty speech, the Tlingit were not vanishing, and the government still ignored the colonists. Then in May 1870, Sitka received a visit from the second most famous person ever to visit Alaska.

Lady Jane Franklin was the aging widow of Sir John Franklin of the Royal Navy, the Arctic explorer lost in 1847 while searching for a Northwest Passage. Lady Franklin had famously devoted her life and fortune to searching for clues to her husband’s fate. She arrived in Alaska that summer with her niece, Sophia Cracroft, who kept a revealing journal of their time in Sitka.

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The journal especially revealed the snobberies and prejudices of the upper-crust English ladies. Miss Cracroft complained about barking Indian dogs, the painful “twang” of American accents, and the presumption of the town’s lesser ladies, such as Mrs. Levy, a storekeeper’s wife, whose several social invitations had to be politely declined during their monthlong stay.

Miss Cracroft’s chief complaint was aimed at their landlord, Josie Rudolph’s uncle, Isaac Bergman, whom the genteel visitor referred to as “the Jew Butcher.” She was certain they were being overcharged for room and board. He told her he needed to pay the absentee owner of the building. “We do not believe one word of it,” she said. For the record, her low opinion of the local butcher and city councilman was strangely at odds with everything else people said about Bergman, who later settled in Oregon and served as mayor of Astoria. When he died in 1911, the Oregon Journal said Bergman “was so well liked here that it is seldom the death of a single individual causes such deep and sincere regret in a community.” But Lady Franklin grew eager to leave Sitka, her niece said, because of the extortion of “our Jew.”

On the other hand, her journal pleasantly describes how an edition of The Alaska Times had been printed on pink paper because Mr. Murphy ran out of white, how a portrait of the czar in the governor’s mansion had a new face painted over the previous emperor, and how Lady Franklin ended up being charmed by the youngest Levy daughter and giving her a bottle of perfume.

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Lady Franklin found Davis getting ready to leave — the furniture already shipped south from the Baranof mansion, precluding a proper reception. The Army was closing all its outlying Alaska posts, including Fort Wrangell, and downgrading Sitka.

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Mayor Dodge was already gone, having resigned back on Oct. 23, 1869, and jumping on the next Army transport ship. His local prospects collapsed swiftly after Secretary Seward’s visit, when a new interpretation of the transfer treaty back in Washington concluded that the Russian buildings purchased by Dodge had actually been government property. The Army reclaimed title to his shop, storehouse, bakery, coal shed, wharf and crane, among other holdings.

Several years later, William Dodge was able to reflect drolly on the schemes and ambitions of Sitka’s earliest pioneers: “It may as well be confessed that most of us thought that political greatness would be thrust upon us, and we were prepared to submit gracefully.”

Dodge sold Alaska’s first newspaper to editor Thomas Murphy for $500, and within a year, Murphy had left as well, moving The Alaska Times to Seattle. The paper continued publication there but without much news from Sitka, and in 1872 merged with other papers into what would become the Seattle Post-Intelligencer.

The Army’s official census and report on Alaska to Congress, completed in December 1870, concluded that economic prospects were indeed bleak: Russia’s going-out-of-business sale was now over, the local fur trade was shrinking, no market existed for fish or timber, and gold prospecting had fallen off. Alaska’s scenery was drawing a first few tourist ships, but Sitka’s reputation was not enhanced when Appleton’s travel guide described it as “beyond doubt the dirtiest and most squalid collection of log houses on the Pacific slope.”

In February 1873, the city council folded. In 1877, even the Army garrison closed, the troops called south to chase Chief Joseph across the Pacific Northwest.

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The handful of settlers and storekeepers who remained in Sitka peered warily out their windows after the Army sailed away. The Tlingit set quickly to pulling down the log palisade that had divided the white and Native communities. They helped themselves to window frames and tools and fixtures from the hospital. There were angry flare-ups but no uprising. Trade continued. A shaky peace held.

Thus did the curtain close on the first act in America’s northern colony. The early settlers had settled very little about Alaska’s future. Population would later follow capital investment and industrial colonialism driven by extraction of resources — gold, fish, timber and oil. It would be a full decade before a new generation of prospectors and Presbyterians finally began to stamp a settlers’ civilization on the land.

• • •

The Jews of Sitka were leaving as well. The Rudolphs and Bergmans departed early in 1871.

We don’t know the exact date. Property records show that in December 1870, Martin Rudolph sold his store and his one-third interest in the Sitka Brewery to Aaron and Esther Levy for $3,500. Isaac Bergman sold two houses that same month. Earlier, Rudolph had sold his other business, Rudolph’s Brewery, to Abe Cohen, whose family was one of the few to remain.

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It had been a little more than three years that the two sisters, Ida and Fanny, had lived with their families in Alaska. They returned to Oregon. Ida Bergman never had children. When she died in 1914, her biggest bequest, $5,000, went to Josie, “my beloved niece.”

Fanny and Martin Rudolph returned to Germany in 1875, taking Josie with them. According to a letter written by Ida, the visit to Europe was meant to be temporary, undertaken because of family illness back in Bavaria. But life took an unexpected turn.

We don’t know if Martin and Fanny Rudolph ever naturalized as U.S. citizens during the two decades before they returned to Germany. But we know that under the birthright clause of the 14th Amendment to the Constitution, adopted the year before Josie was born, the Rudolphs brought back to Europe a 6-year-old American.

Next: In Nazi Germany, Alaska’s pioneer daughter finds herself in mortal peril.

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Support for this project was provided by the Alaska Center for Excellence in Journalism.





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Rivers Turn Bright Orange in Alaska

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Rivers Turn Bright Orange in Alaska


Josh Koch / U.S. Geological Survey

Some of Alaska’s scenic rivers and streams look downright apocalyptic this year because they turned a flagrant orange color — but it’s not due to local pollution, according to scientists at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA).

In actuality, the orange tinted water is rust, released as the frozen ground in Alaska thaws out due to unchecked greenhouse gasses driving global warming. And it’s leaking into the state’s waterways, according to NOAA’s annual report on the Arctic region, where it’s posing a danger to local wildlife, residents and commercial fisheries.

The day-glo rivers are also a bright orange flag that the Arctic is warming faster than the rest of the world. The massive defrosting is also anticipated to increase sea levels and screw up weather patterns, according to scientists who talked to NPR.

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“When the Arctic thaws and warms, it’s having an impact on the global climate,” Matthew Druckenmiller, lead author of the report and senior scientist with the Boulder, Colorado-based National Snow and Ice Data Center, told the broadcaster.

The planet is already showing signs of distress from global warming, such as large-scale forest fires and extreme summer temperatures outside the Arctic, which Druckenmiller described as a giant fridge for the planet.

“The Arctic is warming several times faster than Earth as a whole, reshaping the northern landscapes, ecosystems, and livelihoods of Arctic peoples,” reads the NOAA report. “Also transforming are the roles the Arctic plays in the global climate, economic, and societal systems.”

Zooming back to Alaska, people started noticing the orange waterways in 2018, according to NPR.

“ We heard from people who live in the region — pilots who are often flying over, people in the national parks,”  US Geological Survey research hydrologist Josh Koch told the broadcaster.

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As temperatures heats up in the most remote parts of Alaska, permafrost — ground that usually stays continuously frozen — is melting, and that’s unlocking iron in the soil, which oxidizes from exposure to water and air, causing rivers and streams to turn orange. Surveys revealed that this contamination is far reaching, covering hundreds of miles of terrain in Alaska.

“It’s often not orange until it reaches the stream, and then all the iron and other metals can precipitate and create this iron staining,” Koch added.

It’s not clear if residents are being harmed from the polluted water, but local scientists are monitoring the situation, NPR reports.

The other problem with these rusty rivers is that they increase the acidity level in the water, according to the NOAA report, and this may harm fish like Dolly Varden char, whose juvenile offspring have experienced a sharp decrease in numbers most likely due to iron in its aquatic habitat. And that’s pretty bad for everybody in Alaska.

“The food chain is connected to the lives of people living in the Arctic,” Druckenmiller said.

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More on climate change: Melting Glacier in Alaska Floods State Capital



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Winter Solstice celebration takes over Cuddy Park

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Winter Solstice celebration takes over Cuddy Park


ANCHORAGE, Alaska (KTUU) – On the darkest weekend of the year, Alaskans gathered at Cuddy Park to mark the moments before daylight finally begins its slow return.

To celebrate, the Municipality held its annual winter solstice festival, inviting everyone for an evening of cold-weather fun.

”Some of the highlights, of course, are ice skating at the oval right over there, some holiday music, we have Santa and Mrs. Claus wandering around, we are going to have some reindeer here,” Anchorage Parks and Recs Community Engagement Coordinator, Ellen Devine, said.

In addition to seeing reindeer, folks could take a ride around the park in a horse-drawn carriage or sit down and watch a classic holiday film provided by the Alaska Bookmobile.

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Despite the frigid temperature, people made their way down to the park to partake in some festive cheer.

“It is my first time in Anchorage,” attendee Stefan Grigoras said. “It’s beautiful, it is a little bit cold, I’m not going to lie, but I want to take a picture with the reindeer.”

Grigoras, like many, took part in the free hot chocolate and took his photo with St. Nick and Mrs. Claus, who were seen wandering around bringing joy to all.

“[The kids] get so excited and, you know, you have everything from run over and almost knock us down with hugs to not even wanting to come near us, and it’s just a fun combination of all that,” Mrs. Claus said.

Some of those kids were Logan and Keegan, who were out and about with their parents, Samantha and Trevor. The two kids asked for things that every child is sure to want.

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“A monster truck,” Logan said.

“Bingo,” Keegan said.

”Like Bluey and Bingo,” Samantha clarified for Keegan.

The young family is originally from Arkansas and is excited to be a part of a thriving community.

“I love Anchorage’s community. There’s so many community events, and especially as a young family, it makes me really excited to get together and get to know people,” Samantha said.

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As the festivities continued into the night, a familiar holiday message could be heard.

”Merry Christmas, ho, ho, ho,” the Clauses yelled!

“Merry Christmas,” Logan and Keegan said.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Opinion: You get what you pay for — and Alaska is paying too little

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Opinion: You get what you pay for — and Alaska is paying too little


A protester holds a sign before the start of a rally held in support of the Alaska university system on Wednesday, Feb. 13, 2019, in Juneau, Alaska. (AP Photo/Becky Bohrer)

Most Alaskans, perhaps even most Americans, have a knee-jerk reaction to taxes. They affect citizens in a sensitive area — their pocketbook. Perhaps a little analysis and thought could change this normal negative reaction.

It is clear, even to the stingiest among us, that Anchorage and Alaska need more income. Our severely underfunded public schools, decreasing population — called “outmigration” these days — underfunded police force, deteriorating streets and highways, underfunded city and state park budgets, and on and on, are not going to fix themselves. We have to pay for it.

Public schools are the best example. Do you want your first grader in a classroom with 25-plus students or your intermediate composition student in a class with 35-plus students? What if the teacher needs four to five paragraphs per week per student from two such classes? Who suffers? The teacher and 70 students. It’s not rocket science — if you minimize taxes, you minimize services.

I was an English teacher in Anchorage and had students coming into my classroom at lunch for help. Why? They were ambitious. Far more students who wanted and needed help were too shy, too busy or less motivated. With smaller class sizes, those students would have gotten the help in class.

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Some Alaskans resent paying taxes that help other people’s children. They often say, “But I don’t have any kids in school!” The same attitude is heard when folks say, “The streets in our neighborhood are fine.” Taxes are not designed to help specific taxpayers; they are, or should be, designed to help the entire community. And we are a community.

As well, lots of people get real excited by sales taxes, especially those who have enough income to buy lots of stuff. They argue that, on balance, sales taxes are unfair — they are regressive. That means that individuals with less income pay a higher percent of their income than individuals with a higher income, and this is true. It is minimized by exempting some expenses — medical care, groceries and the like.

A recent opinion piece published in the Anchorage Daily News explained the disadvantages of a regressive tax. In doing so, the author made an excellent argument for using a different kind of tax.

The solution is to use an income tax. With an income tax, the regulations of the tax can prevent it from being regressive by requiring higher tax rates as individual incomes increase. Alaska is one of only eight or nine states with no state income tax. For those folks all worked up about regressive sales taxes, this is the solution.

Any tax that most folks will accept depends on people seeing themselves as part of the same community. That’s not always obvious these days — but it doesn’t change the bottom line: We still have to pay our way.

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Tom Nelson has lived in Anchorage more than 50 years. He is a retired school teacher, cross country ski coach, track coach, commercial fisherman and wilderness guide.

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The Anchorage Daily News welcomes a broad range of viewpoints. To submit a piece for consideration, email commentary(at)adn.com. Send submissions shorter than 200 words to letters@adn.com or click here to submit via any web browser. Read our full guidelines for letters and commentaries here.





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