Alaska
I stayed at an off-the-grid, all-inclusive remote lodge on an island in Alaska. It was incredible.
Driving from Anchorage to Seward, I was in awe of the mountainous views and glacial blue lakes as we drove south toward the Kenai Peninsula. I was on my way to stay at the Kenai Fjords Wilderness Lodge on Fox Island in Resurrection Bay.
Marketed as off-the-grid and all-inclusive, I couldn’t wait to get to the resort. I knew I was in for a treat when I heard I would stay in a cabin steps from the water, overlooking Halibut Cove, while seals and sea otters frolicked in the waves. I wasn’t sure what to expect, though – would there be heat, running water, and a flushing toilet? Would I be able to text my husband?
I’d been dreaming of visiting Alaska, and when Pursuit Collection invited me for a hosted stay at their wilderness lodge, I jumped at the chance. Here’s how to get there and why I would go back.
Getting to Fox Island
To get to Fox Island, you have to take a forty-minute ferry from Seward. This small town sits on the coast between the mountains and Resurrection Bay. People come from all over the world to visit because of its proximity to Kenai Fjords National Park.
I boarded a white ferry with blue trim, named the Glacier Explorer, to Fox Island on a misty day in early June. I had no idea I would see a humpback whale spouting within twenty minutes of the ferry ride. It was the first of many days on my five-day trip to south central Alaska, where I would see incredible marine wildlife.
The Glacier Explorer dropped us off on Fox Island, and I walked along the dock until I reached the shore. The shoreline was covered in beautiful black rocks, some of which were even heart-shaped. I was greeted by the lodge’s naturalist, who immediately pointed out the seal splashing in the cove — likely peeking to see what all the human noise was about.
The main lodge is breathtaking
As I arrived, it was cold and raining — typical of the early summer maritime climate. A group of us meandered down the coastline towards the lodge. Walking through the entrance of the lodge, I was blown away by the inside. It was all wood, warm, and welcoming. I immediately felt at home as the staff greeted us with big smiles.
The main lodge has an area like a living room with couches, chairs, and tables. There’s a woodstove and giant windows overlooking the bay. There’s also a bar. The dining area opposite this space is decorated with beautiful wood furniture, soft lighting, and delicate flower bouquets.
I couldn’t wait to see the cabins after seeing this place. But first, the staff served lunch – a gourmet Caesar-inspired salad, a side of fruit, and a hand-crafted cocktail.
The waterfront cabins are cozy
After lunch, I wandered over to my private cabin, Kittiwake, tucked inside the tree line. I walked up the wooden stairs to the porch and opened the sliding glass door. Inside, I found a red leather couch, coffee table, bed, and a small bathroom with a shower. I was so happy when I realized there was a flushing toilet and on-demand hot water.
Though the property is off-the-grid and not connected to public utilities, the eight guest cabins have propane heaters and battery-powered lights. Since there are no electrical outlets in the cabins, bringing a power bank for your cell phone is essential if you plan on using it to take photos.
There was also no cell phone reception at my cabin. The main lodge did have a place to charge a few cell phones, though, and I could send my husband texts from there.
The food is excellent
The property has a chef and wait staff on location. The chef decides on the menu based on local ingredients and seasonal availability, so the food selections are always different. Over three days and two nights, I was treated to halibut, steak, soups, fresh vegetables, and salads for lunch and dinner.
Before breakfast, I loved the coffee service, where staff brought coffee directly to my cabin around 7 a.m. Breakfast included dishes like eggs and crab cakes or eggs Benedict.
Tea and pastries were served in the afternoon, followed by happy hour and charcuterie before dinner.
I’m gluten-free and appreciated how the chef easily accommodated my dietary needs. You just have to inform the property before you arrive so their team can plan.
Things to do while you’re there
A two-night minimum is required to stay here. Along with relaxing on the porch and watching for wildlife, you can go sea kayaking, enjoy s’mores around a fire pit, or get warm in the wood-fired sauna.
On the second day, I took a half-day guided kayaking tour around Fox Island with Sunny Cove Kayaking. I had so much fun spotting sea otters and puffins. It was my first time seeing a puffin in the wild.
That afternoon, I rested and recharged in the Scandinavian-inspired wood sauna. The sauna is steps from the sea for those brave enough to cold plunge after getting warm and sweaty. Since I visited during the summer, it was still bright outside at 10 p.m., and we could fit all these activities in during the day.
On the third day, after breakfast, we packed our bags and left for an eight-hour boat tour of Kenai Fjords National Park. Viewing whales and the epic glacial landscape made for one of the most beautiful trips I’ve ever taken.
Being pampered at the wilderness lodge while enjoying the outdoor activities was the perfect way to complement visiting this part of Alaska.
Alaska
Alaska Airlines Website Crash Amid Sale, Seattle Flights Grounded
Alaska
Tolstrup family carries on Glenn Highway Christmas tree tradition
More than 32,000 cars travel the Glenn Highway between the Matanuska-Susitna Borough and Anchorage every day. And for the last two decades, a steel Christmas tree in the marshy flats along the Glenn Highway has been a bright spot during the long, dark winter.
The man responsible for maintaining the tree, Jason Tolstrup, died in April in a dirt-biking accident in Nevada. But his twin brother, Dustin Tolstrup, and widow, Kaye Tolstrup, are carrying on the tradition.
About 700 feet of lights are strung around the tree each year. Kaye helped Jason with the tree for the last 10 years, and said she and her daughters spent about a week replacing the lights on the tree last month.
“When you see the tree, when you’re coming around the corner, either way, both directions, you just feel like you’re home,” she said. “It makes you happy.”
Kaye started a Facebook group dedicated to the tree that now has nearly 13,000 members. When news of Jason’s death spread over the summer, Kaye said the community built around their love of the tree showed support for her family.
“It was very heartwarming and it was very emotional,” Tolstrup said. “If we continue to make people happy and smile, and have them support us in this difficult time, it just makes us want to do it more.”
The Tolstrup’s did not begin the Glenn Highway Christmas tree tradition, but Jason volunteered to help out over 20 years ago, and his family has been involved ever since. The lights run off a pair of golf-cart batteries and the tree is made out of pieces of rebar.
In recent years, people have started leaving ornaments on the tree. Some were made by students, and others were made from the wood of the spruce tree that originally stood in that spot. This year, Kaye said, she will hang pictures of Jason from the tree.
Dustin Tolstrup, Jason’s twin brother, recalled one night several years ago when he was carrying the 60-pound batteries through the snow to hook up to the tree with Jason. He said his brother’s back was killing him.
“I carried them down there and I said, ‘Man, why are you doing this Jase? This is hard.’ And someone honked right then,” Dustin said. “He looked at me and smiled, and he said, ‘That’s why.’ And so when we did a test lighting the other night, Kaye and I, you couldn’t believe how many horns were honking as we were standing out there. It’s amazing.”
On a recent road trip in the Lower 48, Dustin said he and his son returned to the location of his brother’s fatal accident, and noticed balloons had been left at the spot.
“They didn’t know we were ever coming back. They didn’t do that for me or anybody else, they did that for Jason, and it just reminds me how amazing people are,” Dustin Tolstrup said.
The Glenn Highway Christmas tree was lit for the first time on Thanksgiving night, and will remain lit until New Year’s Eve.
“I’m doing it for my brother, 100%,” Dustin Tolstrup said. “He did it for the people, I’m doing it for him. I know there’s more to it for the community, but for sure, I’m doing it for my brother.”
Tim Rockey is the producer of Alaska News Nightly and covers education for Alaska Public Media. Reach him at trockey@alaskapublic.org or 907-550-8487. Read more about Tim here.
Alaska
Residents Reject Ship-Free Saturdays in Juneau, Alaska
Residents of Juneau, on the frontline of the cruise over-tourism issue in Alaska, recently voted to reject a proposal to ban cruise ship calls on Saturdays.
The results of the recent ballot found around 60% voted against the “ship-free Saturday proposal.”
Recent Ballot Vote has Divided Juneau
Juneau resident Karla Hart, an advocate and chief organizer of the ballot initiative to ban cruise ships on Saturdays, says the issue of ever-growing cruise tourism has divided the Juneau community. “The soul of Juneau is being sold off piece by piece,” Hart told The Guardian.
At a recent meeting of activists and local people worried over the impact of cruise calls in Juneau, Indigenous community leader Stacy Eldemar said: “I don’t like the uncontrolled growth, the impact on the ecosystem that I’m seeing. It is so important that we have these places.”
“It’s ironic that the very thing these tourists are seeking is being destroyed by the industry that’s bringing them here.”
Read More: How to Spend 8 Hour in Juneau
Conversely, a significant proportion of the 30,000 Juneau residents see cruise tourism as the only way forward for prosperity.
The days of lumber and gold as the main economic drivers for the region are long gone. Business owner Holly Johnson of Wings Airways operates sightseeing floatplanes and employs 78 people. “Everybody is somehow touched by tourism because that’s the fabric of community.”
Support for Cruise Tourism Remains Strong
The ‘vote no’ initiative by local business owners was backed by funding from cruise lines but had wide local support. The Protect Juneau’s Future campaign spearheaded the opposition to a Saturday ban for cruise ships. While supported by the cruise industry, there was a lot of grassroots support too.
Read More: Royal Caribbean’s New Juneau Cruise Terminal
Portland Sarantopoulos, the campaign manager for Protect Juneau’s Future, said before the vote: “This is a local organization led by residents from diverse backgrounds. In addition to monetary donations from cruise lines, we are proud of the many small dollar donations made by residents concerned about the negative impacts of ship-free Saturday.”
Industry group Cruise Lines International Association said: “We believe ongoing, direct dialogue with local communities is the best way to collaboratively self-regulate while providing a stable market for the many local businesses that depend on the cruise industry.”
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